Oil Filters, whose is best, and Why?

csandste

Champ, Lee, SuperTech, STP, Bosch, Deutsch, Mobil1, Car and Driver (Target). I'm sure there are many more.

arkainzeye

i used to use fram oil & air filters but up until about 1 year ago i have been using mobil1 and amsoil oil filters. i was told by Many Different auto part stores that fram makes junk now no matter which filter it is by them. and someone told me that fram now is not the same fram from years ago, i was told that the only thing about fram that is the same is the name. they were sold a while ago and the buyers wanted to keep the fram name because of it being so very well known. so they kept making it as FRAM but cheapened the product. is this true. i guess to i was told that if you had a fram oil filter from the past and one from now and took them both apart you wouod "see the difference". now i dont know if this is true but i have heard of companies being bought mostly for the rights of using it's name..

zr2rando

opera_house_wk

After taking a lot of filters apart, this is quite a good filter. Looks like it would have excellent cold flow with the pleat spacers that allow 100% of the pleat to be used and has a silicone check valve that continues to work. Though, there are a lot of other good filters you can buy for $10. The FRAM PH series is what gets the really bad rap. I have never found a worse filter than the PH8A.

csandste

brorjace

A "delightful" Fram filter???

It kind of makes you wonder who made it for them.

>;^)

--- Bror Jace

wain

people who drove yugos chevettes and vegas were used to cardboard

opera_house_wk

And yes, it looks like someone else made it for them. The pleat spacers is the first new filter innovation that I've seen. I'd buy this filter if it was $3.50 and I don't buy filters over $2.50 now. Didn't Allied Signal (FRAM) go bankrupt a few years back over asbestos? The PH series looks like 1960's construction.

armtdm

I have noted (past three oil changes) that on my Toyota when I take the filter off it has been void of oil. Basically, the drain back valve/seal is not working properly. Now, I leave my filters on for the term of oil change for the most part, so my 7,500 mile interval can be 7-9 months. Amsoil recommends changing the filter at 6 months or 12,500 miles. At about 5000 miles I notice my dipstick level starts to rise indicating to me the filter is releasing oil. I cannot condemn the manufacturer here as I go beyond the 6 month interval (oil analsyis remains fine) but I am dissappointed in the product. Guess I need to change filters prior to six months to assure the valve will continue to work! What I think needs to be said from Amsoil regarding frequency of filter changes are first, change at 6 months due to possible water contamination etc. and second, change at six months because components of the filter were not designed to last longer then six months. By six months the valve has simply worn out due to too many engines stops and starts.

Any experience this issue with other filters or go beyond 6 months with a filter. I recenly went 12 months on a fitler, analysis fine but the filter is a vertical mount! Drain back immaterial.

opera_house_wk

So far, it is only the silicone check valves that seem to be able to take the hot oil without deforming over time. If your car is sensitive to this (upside down filters) long interval oil changes could be a problem. I suspect that even with the best check valve, an added "O" ring might be in order to seal the mounting threads. These threads are short and fairly crude to make a good seal.

wain

try a purolater filter they in the Purone version have a silicone valve.
about $5

747jockey

I own a brand new 2002 Mustang. I really enjoy this car and want to take really good care of it. At 5,000 miles I plan to go Mobil 1 synthetic but the dealer said not to use synthetic because it is a waste of money and the new 5W-20 oil is just as good. Since I have to make an apointment 2 weeks in advance and wait for 2 hours at my dealer I thought about giving the quick lube places a try. Only thing is I heard they use inferior filters. Nothing more then toilet paper in a metal can. I only drive my car about 8,000 miles a year and I change the oil every 4 months. My oil is still clean when I change it. Should I be concerned about Jiffy Lube filters?

Chris

adc100

Just personal opinion. You could take a filter of your choice to them if you must do Jiffy.

"but the dealer said not to use synthetic because it is a waste of money"....cracks me up. Ask to see his high school diploma first. Probably can't

joffficer

Personally I had a bad experience at Jiffy Lube. They put the filter on, but didn't tighten it. Luckily I caught it before it fell off, and lost all my oil.
A few years back I worked P/T at a Wal*Mart auto center. Most of the people their were compitent (me too), but quite a few were idiots! Many times they would use the wrong filter, and three cars got new engines (that I know of) becuase of it. A lot of cars rolled out of there with no lubed chassis, and the same filter it came with. They used Fram filters which are among the worst. They're own brand (Super Tech) is a better filter!

armtdm

Talk to dealer about bringing your own oil and filter and if they will simply do it and stamp that it is done for warranty purposes. Should be a reduced charge as well. Personally go with synthetic but with only 8000 miles a year a tough one. If you drive the car at least ten miles every time you start it and do not live in a cold climate (consistently below or around zero in winter) you may stretch the changes. My toy twin turbo I only put on 5000 miles last year, oil and filter were on the engine for 12 months and I had the oil analyzed, looked good. Only potential issue was a slightly elevated fuel as a % of vol but not major. So, as a minimum with synthetic you could probably go 6 months between changes. I am out of warranty so I don't have that problem

747jockey

I thought about bringing in my own filter and oil to the dealer for them to use. I go in next week for an oil change so I will ask how much they would charge for this service.

I thought about going to synthetic and changing it once a year. I usually drive my car at least 10 miles each way. I am not sure how the warrantee would be going only once a year though. 6 months might be safer bet.

Reasons for the low mileage is because I ride a motorcycle when the weather permits. This is ranges from once a week average during the winter months to near daily during the summer. So during the summer the car sits around alot.

I have changed my oil in other cars in 4 month intervals. Sometimes with as little as 1,500 miles. Always used conventional oil and even with only 1,500 miles in 4 months the oil has a strong smell of gas and the car runs a little smoother when changed. Maybe the synthetic would offer better protection for my type of low mileage driving conditions.

Chris

knapp3

I recently bought a Ford Escape and found the following information in the onwer's guide very interesting: "Ford production and aftermarket (Motorcraft) oil filters are designed for added engine protection and long life. If a replacement oil filter is used that does not meet Ford material and design specifications, start-up engine noise or knock may be experienced. It is recommended you use appropriate Motorcraft oil filter(or another brand meeting Ford specifications) for your engine applications."

I've owned a lot of cars thru the years where the manufacturer promotes their own OEM brand, but this is the first I've ever seen one give specific warnings to watch for with other brands. There is no further explanation in the manual about the Ford design specifications that prevent engine start-up noise.

Maybe Ford reads Edmunds oil filter post.

armtdm

If your fitler sits vertical the drain back valve is meaningless, oil will not drain out of filter. Most good aftermarket brands have excellent filters and drainback valves. Best on the market, better then Ford OEM are Pure One, Mobil 1 and K&N.

Almost all filters meet or exceed OEM specs

fleetwoodsimca

I find that one major reason I crawl under my cars and trucks to change the oil and filters is based on low experience with the rest of the class of people who also change oil and filters. This is meant to be a slightly humorous bit of irony... (:oÞ (:oÞ (:oÞ

tsjay

There is a GM dealer in the town where I work that will change the oil and filter, grease all fittings, top off all fluids, and check tire pressure for $5.95 when you bring your own oil and filter!

Also, they are laid back on the rules about visitors in the shop area, and I am allowed to hang around and watch while the guy does the work.

That last part is very important to me. I don't trust anyone to do my oil changes if I can't personally supervise the job.

They give this deal on any make of car, and it is not just for people who have bought their vehicles there. What a great deal, huh?

tom

joffficer

I love to watch someone else mess with the hot oil, and be able to look at the car on a lift! It would be worth the $6 to me!!

jc1973

JUST BOUGHT A COUPLE OF SUPERTECH FILTERS FROM WALMART ARE THESE ANY GOOD THEY LOOK JUST LIKE FRAMS PH SERIES

wain

in the one size I checked they were better in filter area than than wix,but less than purolater.
looked good otherwise. good price too

fleetwoodsimca

Supertech filters of recent vintage have been made by Champion Laboratories. Champion's reputation is excellent.

csandste

insisting that they substitute the Super-Tech filter for the advertised Fram. NOTHING is like a Fram filter. The SuperTech is everyday run of the mill Champion Labs stuff just like Deutsch, STP and Lee.

fleetwoodsimca

I hear tell that Pennzoil filters are Fram with a different paint job.

frule

I just got a new Super Tech ST3675(an ACDelco PF59 substitute).It is in a new box,is black(was blue),and says Champion Labs.

It also gives efficiencies at 98%(single pass) and 99%(multi-pass).

Also interesting is that it now contains"special synthetic fiber-enhanced filter media".
It also is a dead on look-alike to an ACDelco I got at Autozone.Looks like a good filter.

fleetwoodsimca

I'm willing to bet you'll remain glad you bought it. Some distance back in this thread, the posters pretty much concluded that Supertech filters from Walmart were totally satisfactory in all major parameters with only the exception that some applications favored short cases, where room exists for longer filters. The posters also seem to agree that more filter is better than less, when room is available. Champion is a consistent maker of high quality filters, no matter the house brand they paint on them.

csandste

don't think they still sell a separately branded Quaker State filter but they were Fram too. No Frams of any sort for me.

Wal-Mart housebrand oil is Quaker State. I probably shouldn't have anything to do with a company that is associated with Fram and various types of snake oil, but my only rule of thumb is to avoid Fram oil filters at any cost.

ocho

This is not scientific, but interesting -http://www.frankhunt.com/FRANK/corvette/articles/oilfilterstudy/oilfilterstudy.html

csandste

the one you posted had the expose from the Fram engineer removed. The earliest versions of the Minimopar study dissed Champion Labs almost as much as Fram. Supposedly this was toned down after threats from Champion Labs attorneys. His complaints about Champion were flimsy media and visible rust spots. I do remember seeing rust on some Champion Labs units a few years ago (probably STP at Wal-Mart), but that seems to be taken care of. I've seen disassembled Champion Labs units at AutoZone and the filtering media looks fine to me. Tsjay (who should know) said that the Wal-Mart SuperTech filters used very good media. I'd tend to agree although I really don't know what I'm looking at. My only insistance is that Wal-Mart substitute SuperTech for Fram when they do the twelve buck special. Other than that I'm not that fussy.

tsjay

That is correct. The paper is very heavy in weight per unit area by comparison with the paper used in similarly priced filters. It also contains some synthetic.

Also, Champion Labs does an excellent job in constructing filters.

tom

csandste

(black box) filter really better than the last generation? Looks like the filtering ability is very good.

brorjace

I changed the filter (filter only) on my Honda Civic yesterday and hacked apart a Hastings #LF-402 filter.

Looked pretty good. Every component was of really good quality and the filter cartridge inside took up a great deal of the internal volume. The spring was an impressive coiled piece and I kept it. Now I have to find soime way to use it.

Anyway, I was impressed with this filter overall and a little relieved since I bought a number of these based on reputation. >;^)

--- Bror Jace

tsjay

We only recently acquired the SuperTech business. Champion Labs was buying from our competition until that competitor got out of the automotive filter paper business.

I was very surprised when I saw the specs for this paper. It was much heavier than the typical medium for auto oil. The combination of the heavier weight and the synthetic fiber content makes this a real nice sheet of paper for such a low priced filter.

tom

wtd

Why do the SuperTech filters use the same part #'s as the Fram filters? This is why at first I thought that they were just rebadged Fram filters. My application uses the 3980 filter in both brands.

armtdm

Was the bypass valve on the Hastings on the bottom of the fllter?

fleetwoodsimca

Surely SuperTech filters use the Fram application numbers as a convenience to customers. I'll bet a lot of consumers pass up buying filters that require them getting a different number than the familiar Fram numbers they are accustomed to, and have been buying for years. I suspect that Fram remains the most heavily sold filter in America.

jc1973

i also noticed the part number for the supertech 3980 is the same as fram i just installed one on my 3.1 gm motor that calls for a 3387 smaller filter seems that the supertech knocks on startup where the ac delco didnt

adc100

The 3.1's are a vertical application. How could it knock on startup?? 3.1's are prone to piston slap which usually lasts less than a minute. Make sure you have enough clearance for that filter. Remember when you rev the engine it will rock significantly in its mounts. It could hit a frame member. I could not use the larger filter in either my '94 or '92.

brorjace

Hmmm ... I LIKE it when parts manufacturers use each other's numbering system. Makes cross-referencing that much easier. >:^)

armtdm, the spring as in the can towards the top of the filter and the diaphragm was attached to the base. Oh, and that base was as solid as any I've ever seen. I tried sawing right above the place wherethe canister joins the plate and after having got 1/4" through and saw nothing but steel, I gave up and had to saw further up the filter's side to get through.

--- Bror Jace

jc1973

ACTUALLY I PUT THE LARGER FILTER ON MY 94 CAVALIER WITH 3.1 HAVNT HAD A PROBLEM YET

joffficer

I was thinking of using the Pure One on my 2002 Hyundai Elantra GT, but finding one near me can be a pain in the AS*! The super tech is much cheaper, easier to find, and looks like a good choice. I'm confused on which size to use. one book say 7313, another 6607. Which one is correct? Are they different sizes, and if so which one is bigger? A while back someone told me I could use the (fram) 3593A. Will that size work? (of course I don't plan on using fram, just the size)

adc100

Much sturdier (heavy gauge) than the Pure One. I am absolutely scared of the Pure One due to the very very thin wall. As you know SuperTech is made by Champion Labs. Why not look at both filters and select the longer of the two. I'll try to check on that today in the Pure One filter book.

fleetwoodsimca

The Supertech 6607 is cataloged as fitting the Nissan 3.3 liter V6 that can be found in several vehicles. My remembrance is that it is rather short, and thus appears to not have the capacity that most of us think is desirable (including me). I wonder if one day we will be informed that it filters as well and as long as several longer filters! I have one on my 2000 Mercury Villager right now. What, me worry? Nope...

gasguzz

The L14459 (Puro-Prem version) is what I use in my Civic. If the Super-6607 is used in the 2k-Villager/Quest, I can tell you right now they are of diff diameters.
Here's my search when I looked for an oil filter for our 2k Villager Sport. The Puro-Prem number was L14612 (2yrs ago). First time I saw it I said no way to that short can. I emailed Purolator if I could use the old Pathfinder filter L1620 (a longer can). I was told that the new filter in that application (3.3-v6) was the short L14612. Now, they have it revised to an L14610 (of which I haven't seen yet).
I have been using the longer AC-Delco PF2057, and will switch to the Bosch-3323 in my next dump (as it's more available). It appears to me they at first went to the short filter for the 3.3-v6 off-road (Xterra/Pathy) application, which is not a ground clearance issue with a Villager/Quest minivan. Thus applying an across-the-board inventory for the NIssan 3.3-v6. Besides, the original (Motorcraft/Nissan numbers?) filter on the van then was a longer one. That clearly tells me the short filter has but one only benefit - ground clearance.
By the way, how much is the Supertech?

adc100

.

gasguzz

I'll stick with the Advance-Auto $2.48 Puro-Prem L14459 in my Honda.

nerd

I have been using Fram filters for nearly thirty years and have never had an engine failure or an oil burner. This includes an '88 Ramcharger that was driven 190,000 miles and a '95 Ford F150 that I ran 100,000 miles without a hint of engine problems on either one. So tell me, why do many of you think Fram filters are so lousy?

csandste

1. Much less filtering medium of most other filters.

2. Cardboard endcaps.

3. Cheap anti-drainback valve

4. Cheap plastic bypass valve.

I'm sure there are other shortcomings.