Oldsmobile Aurora Maintenance & Repair

Henry

PIoneer makes a cool unit that is already a double din that will fit into the space. I always wanted to do it, but did not want to lose the steering wheel controls. Now I hear there is a harness that lets you keep the steering controls. I would go for the upgrade and forgetabout fixing the AC Delco thing.

dape

I HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM WITH NOISE WHEN TURNING RIGHT OR ACCELERATING. NEED HELP.I have a 98 Aurora.Have replaced the axels.Same noise.Help.

tjm97

Do you mean like when entering a highway and accelerating kinda hard while turning right?

debbiew

Hello.
My 95 aurora has hot and cold AC. Driver side blows hot, passenger side is cold.
Whats up with that? Any one out there had this happen to them? What did you do? :confuse:

hammen2

Could be low on refrigerant - get thee to an automotive cooling specialist ASAP (and don't use the air until you get a diagnosis).
If you run w/low refrigerant for too long - poof! The undersized A/C compressor dies.
Welcome to a $1200 repair!

--Robert

dape

No. I mean anytime I turn right or excellerate when the engine is 200 Degrees or more.

dape

I have a 98 olds Aurora. Makes noise when I turn to the right or accelerate. When the engine is cold the noise is not there. Had first wheel bearings replaced ,then another mechanic said axcels, Idid that also after the wheel bearings.The used car dealer I bought the car from said he thought I needed a new transmission. This problem is becoming costly and I don't know what to do next. Can anyone help?
Thanks, David

debbiew

Thanks, Thats is just what I wanted to hear! I hope your right about the refrigerant, that would be a easy fix.

Thanks
Deb :surprise:

Henry

I had the reverse during the winter where the passenger side blew warm air, bur everything else was cold air. The problem was the vent motor or something that changes how the air flows. There was also an issue with the passenger side door control for temperature. Absent the refrigerant fix, this would be my next guess.
Henri

keshet

hey everyone
i bought my 99 aurora (92k mi) last year and love driving it-when it drives. i last year had the gm dealership change the plugs and they told me i needed to replace the plug wires @ $350, so i put it off. two weeks ago, the water pump gave out so i took it to a local garage and had them replace it as well as new champion dbl platinum plugs. upon getting the car back, headlights flicker when the car is off, and the parking lights stay on. the chime intemittently goes off as if the headlamps were manually turned on and the car is off/door open. the gas gauge when driving sometimes will register a full tank then drop back a few seconds later to the correct level. the car itself will not start unless jumped, regardless of whether or not i have jump started the car and immediately turned it off or if i have driven 100 mi and turned it off for 10 min. last night driving home (100 mi commute) got real light headed, and rolled up windows, only to smell a real funky sulphury smell, pulled over and pulled up the back seat and the underside of the back seat was very hot and there was a very strange noise coming from either the battery (i am pretty sure) or one of the fuse boxes next to it. I already took it once to the same garage that replaced the pump, they worked on it all day and were on the phone with chevy specialists, and then returned the car to me and said they didn't have a clue. the only other clues are that the other car must be revving in order for mine to jump, there is the tell-tale whine from the alternator via the sound system, and if i do drive for 10/20 mi, turn it off to gas and try to restart in 1-2 min it will turn over and eventually start, but it takes it 30-60 seconds of holding the key in the start position. any ideas? battery? alternator? plug wires? short? the green eye on the battery is bright green, and the info center while driving says the battery is charging to 14.2-14.8 volts. i really can't afford to take it to the dealer for "exploratory surgery" but can afford to get it fixed if at least someone might have an idea what is wrong. if not, i am trading/selling it in the next couple of days. thanks guys

hammen2

Wow, paragraphs would be your friend!

I am having some difficulty following all of the issues you brought up. But, here are some suggestions:

1) Have the shop re-replace your spark plugs. Northstars work great with AC Delco plugs, not so with anyone else's. I'm not sure if this is your starter problem or not.
2) The "headlights flashing" problem is too much grease on your multifunction (turn signal, cruise control, headlight flash) switch. There's a procedure posted here on how to remove and clean this switch... do a search. I think the procedure is documented on howardm/dred98's Aurora page...
3) Is your battery hooked up to the vent tubes? If not, that could be a big problem... you could be getting explosive battery exhaust gases in your car. Not good!
4) Regarding your starting problem... does the car crank? Or does it just sit there with the key turned? Lights on/power good? If it's cranking but not starting, your Fuel Pressure Regulator needs to be changed. About a $50 part, use only the AC Delco, have them do it when they are putting the correct spark plugs in your car. If the car's not cranking, it could be a Security/PASS-KEY issue. Buy some contact cleaner spray and clean your key. Also used compressed air to clean out the ignition area. If you have a second key, try that. If your lights are flashing constantly, it could be this is killing your battery. It did mine. Still got the original in your car? If so, it may be time to change it. Again, use only the AC Delco unit (don't think anyone else makes a compatible battery).
5) Gas gauge... that's your sending unit. These do go bad over time. Mine will intermittently do the opposite, show no fuel at startup, only to jump back up when I start to drive (usually notice this right after gassing up). I use the Driver Info Center and don't look at the gauge that much, but again, in my case, it's right 98+% of the time.

Any other concerns, please post (and use returns to establish paragraphs). Let us know how the repairs proceed.

Hope this helps,

--Robert

juststeve

I've owned my 98 for a few years with fairly good luck avoiding costly problems. But with 150k on it i'm probably entering a period of harder decisions. It looks like I'm facing the cost of replacing head gaskets - its overheating (when AC runs) and a non-visible loss of coolent.

If i decide to go ahead with the repair are there other things I should do as preventative while at the same time? I'm only adding a quart of oil even 1k or so which seems reasonable - runs pretty ok and I've just dropped $400 or so on the tie rods and a few hundred on the ignition switch.

What should I expect to face with head gasket replacement?

tx

keshet

hi robert-
thx for your answer-i was in a hurry and not thinking about pesky things like paragraphs haha but you are definately right.
i will try the things you suggested. a couple of notes though-
1. the car dos not crank at all. the response i get when turning either of the two keys is the same-nothing.
2. the car other than the water pump was fine/no problems whatsoever electrically or starting or anything until i got it back from the garage that switched the plugs to the champion double platinums and the water pump.
3. since the headlights are flickering and there is a loud random clicking noise in the dash that seems to coincide with the headlamps flickering i am wondering if it is an issue with a switch or relay maybe in the dash. could that be the source of the power drain from the battery when the car is not running?
4. i pulled the back seat up again and found the tube leading from the battery was not inserted into the place where it leads to the outside of the car. while that does not fix the starnge clicking and popping noise coming from the battery it definately fixes the odor (:
5. since the other car has to be revving in order to start my car, and the radio when shut off produces a whine through the speakers in sync with my engine while it is running, i am wondering if either a) the alternator is part of the problem or b) i have messed up the alternator by having jumped it a hunded times.

again all these issues just started when i got the car back from the garage. could it be that the process of replacing a water pump something is disconnected that might now be shorted out? or could it be that perhaps (since i was already told that they desperately needed replaced) that the plug wiring is shorting out something somewhere and that is causing the power drain? thanks everyone for you help-these definately are great cars and i will be thrilled to get mine back to flying down the highways of southern indiana! haha

tommytoes

I have a 1995 Aurora. First thing I want to say is I love the way this car handles and I love the power. I just had the whole A/C system replaced for the second time in three years. The automatic rear stabilizer quit working and I have a lot of electrical problems with this car. I am afraid of what it might cost if I take it to a mechanic to look for the short in the wiring. On other forums it said my electrical problems is in the front door wiring boot area. A bolt holding the door on hinge would sometimes cut into the wiring harness causing the inside lights to not work. I couldn't find any naked wires myself so I gave up. Anyone else have this kind of problem. Also, the dash lights work until the headlights are turned on, then all the dash lights and the clock light goes out.

sinatra2

It also sounds to me that your battery will not take a load. probably needs replacing.......I bet your presets are lost on your radio and the date on the trip computer keeps changing as well.......and the clicking you hear underneath the dash is the relay in the light module...nothing wrong with that because IT IS CAUSED by the multifunction switch being dirty. As Robert says the simple and cheap solution to that problem is listed here.......

hammen2

I would definitely make the garage replace the Champion plugs and whatever wires they used with AC Delco. It's possible, if your old wires were really bad, that you fried one or more coil packs.
As sinatra2 said, the cause of the lights flashing/relay clicking IS the multifunction switch.
http://www.howardm.net/dred98/switchfix.php is the URL you need to visit. Do that, let the battery charge up, take your car in to get the plugs and wires replaced with the right parts, and THEN let us know if the starting problem is still occurring. As sinatra2 said, it's possible that the drain from the flashing lights has killed your battery. This happened to mine.
Regarding the whine from the radio, I suspect interference from the plug wires. Again, have those re-replaced and see if the radio problem continues to occur.

Hope this helps,

--Robert

hammen2

I have no experience with this repair, but, like everything else on these cars, I would expect this to get expensive. For one thing, since the engine has an aluminum block, you need to use the Time-Sert inserts once the bolts are removed (can't just re-insert them).

A great resource on the NorthStar engines (including the Aurora V-8) can be found here:

http://www.babcox.com/editorial/us/us100232.htm

Particularly, this section:

"If you have to pull a cylinder head on a 1993-'99 4.0L or 4.6L Northstar V8 to replace a gasket or do a valve job, do not reuse the old 11mm head bolts. Also, GM has revised the head bolt torque values and tightening procedure as follows:

In sequence, torque all bolts to 30 ft.-lbs.
In sequence, rotate all bolts an additional 70°.
In sequence, rotate all bolts an additional 60°.
In sequence, rotate all bolts another 60°.
Torque the front three M6 head bolts to 106 in.-lbs.
Because the Northstar V8s are aluminum, thread damage is not unusual. GM's recommended thread repair kit is J42385-500 for main and head bolts, and J42385-2000 for other fasteners."

Hope this helps,

--Robert

hammen2

Hmm... most of the "door" wiring issues affect things like seat movement, heated seat activation, lumbad adjustment, power windows and locks, et. al. Don't know how handy you are with a soldering iron, but you may want to look for the switch that indicates when the doors are closed (the lights theatre dim) and see if you can find the appropriate wires. A service manual (http://www.helminc.com or eBay) would be your best friend. Actually, I see folks posting GM Service CD's that have all of the manuals on them - selling them for $40 -$50. That may not be a bad investment...

Sorry I couldn't be more specific (I'd check my Aurora but it's in storage until October :-(

--Robert

keshet

i really appreciate the help! i'll do what yu guys have said to do and let you know. thx everyone

tjm97

Try to avoid throwing $$$ at the problem.

Lets see - can you describe the noise a little better?

I had what I think may be a similar sounding problem with my 97 a few years ago. As I would accelerate while getting on the highway (slight right turn) I would get a noise and a feel at the same time, like something was rubbing, almost grinding; not all that loud though. It turned out to be the left side tranny mount (you can see it through the driver's front wheel opening). This problem is kinda' coming back now but I know it is because I need a rear tranny mount.

Is this the sound/feel you have too?

keshet

ok just got word from the dealer-alternator is shot (@ $600) and the battery won't take a charge (@ $150)-this after they jumped it to start it by using one of their jump boxes and putting the black to red and red to black directly to the battery (i couldn't believe it when i saw them do it-you'd think the manager of a gm service dept would know red goes to red and black to black- afterwords absolutely nothing electric in the car worked and the engine barely ran)
they think though that the alt and battery will fix everything-we shall see i guess.

sinatra2

The battery could not hold a charge...which may have overworked the alternator if you drove it like that for quite sometime.Never go directly to the battery to jump start.They should have used the positive linkage in the engine compartment.....and put the black to any part of the frome work.........plus hooking it up backwards to jump start can hurt the alternator plus some other circuitry...GM wonder why they are losing money when their "Well trained techs" don't know Red from Black . I would get them to pay for your alternator......

jlawson96

:sick: I have a 96 Aurora, about 75,000 miles and recently it has been giving me some problems. It will start fine and just have no acceleration, I struggle to get it to 10mph and can get it to about 40mph or so if I have enough room to get going. Flooring the gas doesn't seem to have any effect, it just putts along. After awhile of running like this it will get worse and at idle will misfire and stall. If I turn the car off and let it sit for a few minutes it will sometimes start and run just fine for a long period of time, let it sit, start again, and it has the problem. I've replaced the fuel filter and it ran fine for almost a full day of heavy driving in traffic, then exhibited the same acceleration problem later in the day. Sometimes it seems to have more issues if the car sits in the sun, but that might not be related. It kicked up the SRS light and pulled a code for O2 sensor, that was replaced but the problem persisted. I just got the fuel rail recall notice in the mail yesterday, so I made an appointment for that, but am not too optimistic that will fix the issue. If anyone out there has any ideas I would be grateful for your input. Thank You.

hammen2

Have them check the EGR valve, and the throttle body. Have the spark plugs and wires ever been changed? Using AC Delco plugs and wires (others will give you issues)?

--Robert

sinatra2

The other possibilities could include the fuel pressure regulator and the fuel pump.
a quick check for the fuel pressure regulator which is locacted on the fuel rail under the silver engine cover is to unplug the vacuum hose and if fuel comes out you need to replace...........

rocket88man

Have a problem with a '98. The diode in the wiring harness at the cooling fans melted. I need the section of harness with the 2 fan connectors back to the relay center, that contains the inline diode. This is a 2' long section. Anyone parting one out? GM sells only the engine harness, and what an ordeal to change the whole thing! Hate to chop out one section of a new one.

Thanks,

Joe in Phoenix

fieraku

I have an aurora 96 and I have a problem with it....it goes only to 50-60 km and it wont change gears.....I went to a mechanic and i was told that I need a new transmission..... some other people tell me that it is not the transmission. I have had this car for 2 years and I have never changed the transmission fluid and the computer shows that the fluid transmission is 100 % and no other signals like for example check engine or stuff like that. Can anyone help me or give me some advice.... I would gladly appreciate it.
Best Regards

hammen2

I don't think you need a new tranny as much as you need new shift solenoids. This was a problem with the 95's and most 96's. Symptoms are that the car won't shift past 2nd gear. There's a piece of plastic in the tranny that was replaced with a metal one. Any reputable Caddy dealer should know what you are talking about/should have the repair kit. This is about a $400 repair, less if you can DIY.

Regarding tranny fluid flushes/maintenance, if this is your problem, your not changing the fluid out probably didn't have any input as to why this happened. Nevertheless, my car, at 95k miles (bought it 4 years ago with 27k) has had the tranny fluid flushed 3x - before I bought it, around 51k miles, and again right at 95k before I stored the car (I drive a GTO for 6-7 months in the summer, then the Aurora during the winter months here in Wisconsin). You'll never see the tranny fluid drop below 100 to 99%, but that doesn't mean you shouldn't change it periodically (as well as the trans filter) - if there's metal in there, or the fluid is shot, you will shorten the life of your tranny by not performing this regular maintenance.

Ditto things like plugs and wires, and coolant flushes. People hear "100 k miles" and then wonder why their car is missing when they only have 75-80k miles on it. Or their coolant tank is filled with goo. Not to put money into the dealer's pocket, but sometimes these things need to be changed (I've had 2 coolant flushes as well, and the plugs and wires changed at 80k - made a huge difference). I see so many people with bad plugs/wires posting here... if only they tested the wires, or pulled a plug and looked at how bad it was, they'd know...

--Robert
maintenance stickler on all of his vehicles

jsullivan

I have to replace the gas tank on a 97 Aurora. How big or small a job is it?

sinatra2

Big Job'............you have to drop the exhaust and the rear suspension....plus plus......

jerug

Just received a quote the end of May from my local dealer here in NJ on my '97 Aurora for this repair...$4500 + tax ($4000 labor, $500 parts) and it would take about 1 to 1 1/2 weeks for them to do. Tried Oldsmobile's Customer Assistance # for some help with this but after 30 days the outcome was strictly "it's your problem, that's our final decision, we won't discuss it any more" in spite of GM service managers confirming it's a design problem. Talked to a rep at Jasper Engine Rebuilding about the price for a rebuilt motor but he said they don't do them anymore due to "quality problems" i.e. the timeserts fail too frequently. So on 7/5 I'm dropping the car off and having a local shop pull my motor and send it out to be rebuilt at a cost of $3500 + tax with a 3 year/36,000 mile warranty.

Hope this info helps,

Jim

fieraku

I HAVE a friend of mine he had the same problem for his aurora 96 he changed the head Gasket and he paid clouse to $2000 Canadian was at a mechanic shop not at the GM , and the car works fine , so is better to find domebosy privat insted of the GM dealer

fieraku

somebody*

tjm97

your problem sounds extreme but it may be as simple as the catalytic converter. without hearing it or driving it (engine smooth, shifting, etc) that would be my guess.

fieraku

Thank u Hammen2 thats was my problem the shift solonoids was broken u saved me a lot cus i was for new transmisionand. It cost me with transmision fluid change $600 and im getting today from the dealer.
so one more time THX HAMMEN2

kurzz

I'm not sure, but I believe that it may be located under the dash in the passenger side footwell. Good Luck.

toasted96gm

I read the past posts and sounds like the same problems I had with my 96 Aurora. Mostly electrical problems. One day I turn on the engine and I hear this "pop" I get out of the car thinking it was the trunk but everything seemed fine, when I start driving about 100 ft when smoke started rolling into the car and I could see flames through both side windows, I pulled over and watched my Aurora melt as the firefighters were on their way. I could've died that day, I only burned my leg when i got out of the car. That car always had electrical problems, whether be a fan that runs after I turn off the engine, or the doors not opening, AC problems, small electrical problems like the windows not rollin down, the seats not responding, antenna, etc... Now this internal combustion. It was one thing after the other. I dont know how comfortable you feel driving the Aurora now but if I would've seen the pattern in the posts before buying it I dont think I would've bought it. Be safe out there.

oldsaurora

i have a 2001 aurora, 63,000 km on it, bought it brand new in Canada, and have had nothing but problems. I have had pulling to the right, wheel alignment problems, steering problems where the steering wheel actually cranks very loudly, air conditioning not operating on drivers side, and NOW THE TRANSMISSION. As soon as I got the car, we noticed that when we went away on any longer trips, that the car will not pick-up speed, and holds back making a huming noise, and will not kick into gear. GM ignored this problem, as there were so many other problems and this was intermittent and not noticed or present when test driven. I've had about 4 wheel alignments, and they have replaced the intermediate shaft. So now i'm told that we need to have the transmission re-built, but i'm out of warranty.....what should i do?

dr_turbo

My 96 wouldn't crank over after sitting overnite, put charger on it for a while and it charged up pretty quick but turned over very slow and it just started. Took it to autozone and he determined that the battery was no good, voltage dropped to
5.0v with load.
Ok, so now what? How long should these HUGE batteries last? How can I tell if it is the original battery? What do I replace it with, another Delco? How much are those? Thanks guys!!

paul

blk97aurora

Paul,

If the battery is original, you got your money's worth. My original battery carried a catalog number of 681. The replacement was 76-84.

The original battery in my '97 (Sept, 1996 build) died in November 2001. At that time I could not find any replacement other than ACDelco because of the venting provisions. Five to six years is about the most you can expect, even given the benign environment under the rear seat.

You are right about the size -- at 55 pounds, it is the heaviest car battery sold by ACDelco. It is the same size as the battery in my 1970 4-4-2.

Some people have reported success using gelled electrolyte replacements (I do not remember the brand name). I think there may be some (minor) issues with cable connections. Also, these gel batteries may be lower CCA rating than the original (970 amps).

I paid $110+tax at an ACDelco distributor; I think list was $130 to $140. I installed it myself.

Hope this helps.

Les

fieraku

My 96 Aurora uses(burns) a lot of oil. From one change to the other that usually takes 3 months or 5000km which ever comes first, I add 4 litters of oil in between. So I was wondering if anyone has any suggestions if there is something wrong, should i keep it and have some work done on the engine or get rid of it. By the way im using Castrol Oil 10w30.

blk97aurora

fieraku,

It is very common for Northstar engines to exhibit high oil consumption. Google "Northstar oil consumption" and you will get plenty of hits. One of the suspected reasons for the high oil consumption is aggressive honing of the cylinder bores during manufacture.

My factory service manual states that "normal" consumption is up to 2 quarts in 2000 miles. Your experience of 4 liters in 5000km exceeds this figure. My '97 uses about 1 qt per 1300 miles. It has been fairly consistent from 37,000 miles on the odometer when I bought the car to now (122,000 miles). I maintain the oil level at 1/2 qt below full on the dipstick (reading that dipstick is another story). Evidence is that the Aurora Classic dipsticks are not calibrated correctly and that full on the dipstick is actually overfilling the oil pan, contributing to excess consumption.

GM does have a service bulletin describing a very complicated cure(?). I think most of us have decided to live with the problem. It's much cheaper to buy the extra oil (even synthetic) than to maybe fix the problem. I had been very concerned that the condition would worsen with miles and my Classic would turn into a mosquito fogger, but so far that does not seem to be the case. Knock on wood.

Hope this helps.

Les

hammen2

Another possibility is that your car's not burning oil, it's leaking it. My '98 suffered the all-too-common problem with the rear crankshaft seals. They fail, and the car begins to leak oil. In my case there was never a puddle of oil under the car, but the underside of the car/engine cradle was a bid sludged up from the leak.

This was an $1800 repair, which required the engine and tranny to be dropped, the block split and re-sealed. Very common failure on Northstars... was supposed to be fixed by the '98 model year, but my early-build '98 had this issue regardless. Thank goodness for my extended warranty :-)

--Robert

hammen2

There is a known recall for the nylon fuel lines cracking, on '95 through '97 model year Auroras. There have been several fires. The recall involves replacing the fuel lines with stainless steel ones. I'm betting your car never had the recall procedure done (it came out in the last year or so), and that's why you had the fire. Glad you weren't seriously hurt - you can always buy another car!

--Robert
happy he owns a '98 :-)

hammen2

Les' recommendations are spot on. I'll just re-emphasize the point to be sure to hook up the vent tubes to the replacement battery - otherwise you'll get battery fumes in your car. If the vent tubes are cracked/broken/missing, replace them as well.

FYI,

--Robert

sherimc

Hello,
I have a 96 Aurora, which was "given" to me by my Mom (I'm 38, but hey....gotta love those moms). The car has 95,000 miles and was bought new by my parents. Of course it was given to me in immaculate condition. Well, needless to say, as soon as I get it...
1. Driver's side window no longer works---I am guessing it's the window lift motor. This came on gradually...slow operation, then it finally died. If this sounds familiar to anyone, let me know if I'm on the right track. I can replace this myself, as I am pretty handy. I haven't pulled the door yet, so maybe it's just a loose connection.
2. This next problem is just plain weird. My Bose radio has been fantastic, until today. I no longer have any SOUND ! Everything that I can see on the faceplate of the radio seems fine. I can scan channels, switch from radio to CD, etc.. just no sound. I have fooled with all the knobs to see if I'm just a dummy, but still nothing. Someone help please... (and no, I'm not blonde...).
3. I too have the whine....I read that many of you do.
4. Radiator problems, problems, problems. My mom had this inspected over and over, they claim there is no leak. Well, yes there is. I have to add coolant once a week. There is corrosion on the left side of the radiator. But the service guys say no leak. Anyone had similar problems?
Whew...sorry this is so long. I am hoping that other owners can give me some guidance. Thank you all so much!

johnj1277

I have a 2001 oldsmobile Aurora 3.5 and the check engine light came on.Now it will take between 15 and 20 seconds for my car to start.It will turn over fine.After the car runs it runs fine its just the starting.I brought it to autozone and they said it was a secondary air sensor.Then I called a buick dealer to ask how much and if it was easy to do. They said it was $233.00 each. Then they said its called a secondary shut off valve.They said there are a right and a left sensor. My question is where are these sensors and are they easy to change? And do you think that that is the problem? Thanks need help

hammen2

I know there was a TSB for crankshaft position sensors, which can cause starting issues. Don't know where these sensors are on the 3.5/revised 4.0 - maybe a post over in the general Maintenance section would be helpful.

If you don't have the service manuals, http://www.alldatadiy.com is a web site that you can subscribe to that has online manuals, TSB's, et. al.

Hope this helps,

--Robert

hammen2

Regarding your issues:

1) Probably is the window regulator. I've seen them go on other GM cars of this vintage, not had this experience with my Aurora. I was having issues with windows not going down when the master (driver's side door) switch was used, but the actual individual window switches worked. Had to have the quad switch on the door replaced.
2) I would pull the head unit and re-seat the connections... also double-check the subwoofer/bass shelf in the back.
3) whine? What whine? I'm pretty familiar with common Aurora problems, but I've not heard of any whining issues.
4) Sure you don't have a head gasket problem? If you're not seeing leaks under the car, then the coolant has to be going somewhere. Green or orange/red (Dexcool) coolant? I would have the system flushed and switch to DexCool. Not to say I haven't heard of problems wih the plastic radiators on the Classics...

--Robert

johnj1277

About 4 months ago I had the crankshaft sensor changed but they said my mass air flow sensor was bad also. But that error code never came up again. So I dont think that sensor would go bad that quick again. Im lost here.
Thanks