Got a Quick, Technical Question?

86cutlass350

im not sure i havent tried that yet ... ive been killing my self trying to find out a way to get my distributer off ... and then ive also been trying to find a 350 engine for oldsmobile ... like a rocket ... but there sooo hard to find and ive tried every place i know and i just cant find one ...

kiawah

Rebuild what you have...you didn't throw a rod through the block or anything, did you? From the way you originally wrote, sounded like you already had an engine you were ready to use. You know it will fit

86cutlass350

i would rebuild what i have but the 307 just doesnt have enough power for me ... the 307 only has 110 horsepower and my cutlass is big and 110 hp for that big car just isnt enough for me .. so thats why i was looking into a 350 .. and your right i do have another engine i went out and found this guy who had a 307 from the exact car i have and he sold that to me for like 150 $ but thats when i realized i didnt want a 307 .. i want something with more power .. so now ive got my good 307 and the bad 307 that im either going to sell or bring to school and work on them there rebuilding them and then selling them for more ... cause i go to a tech. school for automotive ..

kiawah

Not sure what you could reasonably put in there, that would give that behemoth significantly more power. I personally would probably put the other 307 in it if it runs fine and only cost 150, eliminates any modifications that you might have to make for a different engine.

It's a driver, just keep it running.

Good luck.

rtc1

I have a 1984 VW Rabbit convertible with ~130K miles on it that I drive 2-3 times a week for short distances (<5 miles) locally. Beginning about a year ago, I've had several instances where during middle of driving (no particular trigger or pattern detectable) the small red oil pressure light on the dashboard comes on accompanied by a constant high pitched whistling noise coming from the light. The oil pressure meter at the base of the stickshift shows good pressure and the oil dipstick is at normal level. The light and whistling sound disappears after about one minute or so. The owner's manual indicates to stop driving and have it towed if this light ever comes on. I've described the problem to my local VW mechanic but he doesn't seem to know what it could be. He asked that I bring it when this is occurring but since it is so transient, it has resolved by the time I pull into his garage. Curious if anyone knows what is the source of this problem and should I be driving it around town in this condition?

burdawg

Is this an "oil pressure" light, or an "oil level low" indicator?

Mr_Shiftright

Your only means of self-assurance is to have the mechanic install a temporary oil pressure gauge or for you to install a permanent one that you know works.

If the light came on and you kept driving, your engine would be dead by now or making noises like the hammers of hell, so in a way you've sort of tested it yourself (at great risk).

I'd say it's just a bad sensor or loose sensor wire (the light lights when the sensor grounds out) but without the car in front of me I can't say more about it.

Next time you own a car and the red light comes on, stop the car immediately or come to idle speed open the hood and listen. If there is actually zero oil pressure, your engine will start to clatter, especially as you raise the idle speed or take off again.

Have the mechanic screw in a gauge. Check the oil and if the filter is old, change it.

And check what the DAWG says: Is this a pressure gauge or merely an oil level gauge?

cob

I had a 86 Cutlass with the 307 it was a dog I agree. A buddy of mine put a Olds 455 in his Cutlass it fits just fine and bolts right up to the trans and the stock hood also fit. All olds V-8 blocks are the same bolt pattern only difference is the bore and stroke which is why the deck height on the 455 is slightly taller. Even the heads from 307/350/400/455 are interchangable but some casting numbers are better than others and have different valve diameters. You can put any Buick Pontiac or Olds 260/307/350/400/455 into your car and they will bolt up to the trans bellhousing and the motor mounts. You cannot install and Chevy 305/350 without changing the trans bellhousing. Check your area for a 455 if you want the most power. Just smash the distributor on the 307 most used engines come with a distributor anyway.

rbirns1

I have a 2003 VW Passat with only 8800 miles. I use full synthetic oil. Since I only drive about 2K miles per year, and I use synthetic, do I need to change the oil every year? Can I just go by mileage?

3fan4evr

I'm about to replace the OEM struts after 14 yrs and 220K mi on my 93 Civic LX 4dr. It looks straight forward and simple - provided I can get the nuts to bust loose after all those years (liberal application PB Blaster hopefully will help). Any surprises, tricks, or tips to this job?
Thanks,
Mike

Mr_Shiftright

You'll need a spring compressing tool I believe to pre-load the strut assembly for removal.

I'd certainly read up carefully on how to do this and take all safety precaution concerning spring compression. This job can bite you if you are trying some jury-rig; otherwise, yes, pretty straightforward.

You'll probably need an alignment check afterwards.

And block the car up real good before you start work, since you'll have to tug and pull.

jeeper3

HELP, I HAD A BIG SCARE OUT IN THE MIDDLE OF THE DESERT WHILE 4 WHEELING YESTERDAY, MY (CAR-LOK) SYSTEM INSTALLED AT THE JEEP DEARLSHIP WHEN I BOUIGHT MY 2005 JEEP UNLIMITED , FAILED TO WORK WHEN I PUSHED THE BUTTON, CHANGED OUT THE BATTERY, STILL NO LUCK, A FRIEND TOWED ME INTO TOWN, QUESTION, HOW DO I DISABLE THE CAR-LOK SYSTEM IN AN EMERGENCY IF THE BUTTON FAILS AGAIN???I HAVE A SPARE THAT I AM USING NOW, CAR-LOK WANTS OVER A HUNDERED DOLLARS FOR TWO NEW BUTTONS....

3fan4evr

Just "Rented" (free upon return) the spring compression tool. Could not beleive I got all 12 bolts/nuts free last night without stripping/breaking after all those years and miles - PB Blaster and breaker bar big factor. Thanks for the imput.
Mike

jensaroo

1990 VW jetta 8V

how the heck do I get the driveshaft back onto the tranny? (or differential, im not 100% sure) im new to this and im sure there is some trick.

last night i went to reattach the driveshaft and the last two bolts wouldnt go in because the first four put the shaft off kilter with its fitting.

it was kind of like opening a round tin of cookies or something. when you pull up on one side of the lid, it causes the other side to bind because its not in line with the tin itself.

Thanks!
JensAroo

Mr_Shiftright

The PB Blaster is good stuff, eh? Congrats on a successful and safe job and for being patient enough to take your time with those old bolts. Nothing worse than hearing that sickening "SNAP" and the wrench going instantly slack.

kiawah

Not to get too far off track here, but I had not heard about PB Blaster. Just did a web search, and checked out their product line.

Is this significantly better than any of the other more common name products?

Is this stuff sold at the local auto stores? I'll have to check out next time I'm there.

dave8697

The instr cluster backlights or any other interior lights don't work. Only the map lights on the mirror work. Could this be the roller switch that dims the lights? It feels loose - rotates easy. How can I get to it to check it or replace it. '99 GMC Sonoma. The radio display only works during daylight and goes dark when the sensor turns on the headlights automatically. No bad fuses.

Mr_Shiftright

Seems to work well. I've had good luck with it but I have other tricks, too.

user777

yes, sounds like a logical possibility to me.

essingh

I have a 2007 Mercedes C350 Sport Sedan.. I got a little sideways and hit the left front and rear tires against a low curb. Anyway, my insurance company, after having an independent inspection done, says that the rack-and-pinion were not damaged, thus they will not be replaced. Fine. However, how will I know, in the future, if there was indeed damage done to the rack-and-pinion and a degradation of steering is occurring? Is it obvious? What would the symptoms be of a bad or tweaked rack-and-pinion?

Thank you for your time.

burdawg

If you bent a tie rod you'll know since it will be out of alignment. I assume they specified an alignment? If not it should be checked.
I doubt if you did any damage to the rack and pinion itself.
Keep an eye on it for leaks for a while, just in case.

engnrsrule

1988 Chrysler T&C (the station wagon, not mini van). The lights come on when the outer terminals of the connector are shorted. The switch opens and closes continuity when removed and exercised. Switch pin does not seem worn. Any suggestions?

edouble1

The rear of the car is starting to bottom out driving over dips and bumps. 240,000 miles! Springs, or shocks/struts?

Thanks for your input.

Mr_Shiftright

Well struts/shocks of course...those normally have a lifespan of 80K before they begin to degrade...gradually but definitely. I'd replace them all 'round.

richard7

I have a 92 Chevy lumina in great shape. the 20 amp. tail light fuse keeps blowing. It blows just as soon as I replace it and turn on the lights. the radio was stolen and I did have a new radio put in yesterday. Not sure if that is coincidental or not. The radio works just fine. Any one have any ideas?

qbrozen

most likely, you had a wire on the old radio that connected to the lights. its a dimmer switch. when you turn on the lights, it dims the stereo illumination. That wire is now loose behind the new stereo and shorting out when you flip the switch.

richard7

guess that is what I get for the "free" installation. Is there any way to fix this myself, or will I have to take it to a repair shop? If there is one loose wire, what do I do with it? Also, if I remember correcty, all of the wires are enclosed in a plastic housing with pins that fit inside the back of the radio. Thanks.

kiawah

I dont' think anyone 'knows' that there is a loose wire shorting on something. I believe the point is that there is a power wire associated with the lights circuit, that would normally power the illumination lights in the radio. When you put the new radio in, it appears that this wire, is somehow either shorting out or is connected somewhere it shouldn't be with this new radio. This wire might actually be one of the wires in a plug.

One would have to review all of the wire connections that were done with the installation.

trayz

where do I time this engine if there is a 009 distributor on it - no vacuum advance

will a static timing work or should I strobe it with a tach?

qbrozen

Kiawah is right, of course. We can only guess, based on the circumstances, what is happening. I don't know how the installation was done. Could be they used a harness, could be they spliced wires, could be they crossed something, could be a completely unrelated problem with great timing.

If it were me, I would pull the radio and check everything. If I were someone else who was not mechanically or electrically inclined, I would take it back to where the install was done and tell them I assume they did something wrong and to please look into it.

Mr_Shiftright

Strobe is always best but you can static time it. Vacuum advance has nothing to do with static timing other than knowing the recommended static timing point with an 009.

An 009 can be a PITA with a VW---you have to drive aggressively and not let the revs drop, or you'll be lugging the engine---bad idea on an air cooled engine.

fordlover100

I have a 1991 mazda 626 that has 100000+ miles on it

it has just started this ticking sound

i have a manule that says to clean all the HLA's so i did that but the sound got even worse

Can it be a bent rocker arm

anything can help

thanks

sindy1232

Ok here it goes, I am new here so please remember this.
My son has a 1984 Ford Bronco and the brakes went out. Found out it was the Brake Power Booster went out so we changed it. We bleed the brake lines but now the passenger side rear nut will not screw back on to tighten the lines. I mean I have cleaned out any and all debris and tried to get that screw to go on every way I can think of but it just will not tighten up. It just turns and turns. Nothing looks striped but the nut just will not grab.

Does anyone have any idea of a way we can try to get the darm nut to tighten up?

My son is only 16 and does not have the cash to take the car to the shop for a nut.

Thanks a ton!!

kiawah

Are you talking about the brake bleeding screw? If so, you do not take it out when bleeding, you only crack it open. Pump the brake and hold it towards the floor, open the bleeding screw a quarter turn to allow the fluid/air to come out, shut the bleeding screw, release the brake pedal. Repeat.

If you took the bleeding screw out, then you'll just need to get it back in. If you can't and somehow it striped or broke, then you'll need to replace the wheel brake cylinder itself (I'm assuming your rears are drum brakes, as opposed to rotors). The bleeding screw is in the backside of the brake cylinder. If your rear brakes are rotors, then you'd need to replace the caliper.

Neither one of these would be terribly expensive if you are doing it yourself. The drums would be a little more technically difficult to change, only do one wheel at a time so you can see how the other side is put together. They would be mirror images.

sindy1232

My son took the screw totally out and of course the rear brakes have drums. It is just so stupid not be able to get the bleeding screw to screw back in but nothing seems to be easy on his bronco. I am going to try again tomorrow when we are fresh and see what happens.

Thanks a ton.
Sindy

kiawah

So if you are holding the bleeding screw in your hands, can you see the threads on the end?

Sometimes on older vehicles the bleeding screw is quite frozen stuck, and when you go to crack it open it actually breaks off. The screw end stays in the cylinder, the round top comes off in the socket. If that is what happened, then you need to replace the cylinder.

sindy1232

Thanks, I will check that tomorrow during the day.

fordlover100

:mad: I have a 1991 mazda 626 that has 100000+ miles on it

it has just started this ticking sound

i have a manule that says to clean all the HLA's so i did that but the sound got even worse

Can it be a bent rocker arm

anything can help

thanks

burdawg

What's an HLA? How loud is the ticking? Does it get quieter as the engine warms up? Is it an overhead cam engine?

ray80

Besides the possibility of loose wir, the new radio may be just drawing to much power on that circuit that illuminates radio. Just as a test, you could try shutting radio off, replace fuse and see if it still blows when turning on lights. Might help narrowing it down (unless radio stay lit even when off)

qbrozen

HLA = well... i'm not sure of all the words, but i believe its hydraulic lifters.

qbrozen

in regards to the lifters, one or more could be shot, so no amount of cleaning will help. You can remove the valve cover and turn the engine by hand and check each lifter clearance one at a time. This method would also show you any bent rocker arms.

burdawg

If it's a 91 626 then it should be a 2.2L SOHC, so no lifters. I'm thinking most likely valves need adjusting. Still wondering what HLA is though.

qbrozen

well, according to what i found online, HLA = hydraulic lash adjusters (lifters).

edit: this guy rebuilt his head on a '91 626. and he says its got HLAs.

Mr_Shiftright

Bad lifter or bad camshaft I'd say. Can you see the camshaft lobes? How do they look, surface-wise? Do you see "galling", like a "skin problem" on the lobe?

richard7

It was a loose wire. My daughter's "friend" installed it for free. He did not cap all of the unused wires. All OK now! Thanks for the help.

fordlover100

I ran it tell it got warm and when i hit 2000rpm it would studder and when i let go of the gas it would stop for like 2 sec.
there is also smoke coming out by the exsate manafold.
it not as loud as it was befor.

is it burning oil

Mr_Shiftright

Oh okay, so we've got :

ticking sound
smoke from exhaust manifold

Then YOU have an exhaust gasket leak or a crack in the exhaust manifold or a leak in the connector pipe (down pipe) joint, where it connects to the exhaust header.

sindy1232

Ok the screw is not broken but it seems stripped in the caliper. So now I guess I have to replace the caliper.
This is something I have never done, so is it complicated to replace the calipers on the rear?

You guys have been a great help. Thanks!!
Sindy

kiawah

It's important to make sure you get everything back correctly w/drum brakes. If you can find someone who has replaced drum brakes before who can oversee everyting, that would be good.

- You'll end up taking everything apart, so I would replace the rear brake shoes while you have everyting apart, if you can afford it.
- I would take a picture of how everyting is correctly positioned, before you take anything apart. Only work on one side at a time, so you can look at the other side (if need be). Don't mix the parts from right to left. You'll find them mirror images of each other.
- Get the rear jacked up, and block underneath the axle and/or frame on each side. You'll need both rear wheels off at the same time.
- Take the drums off, they would normally pull right off. You may find a small metal spring clip on one of the wheel lugs (helping to hold on the drum when you change tires). If you are not able to pull them off by wiggling back and forth, you may have to un-adjust the star wheel which is inside the drum. You can usually get to it with a screwdriver from the backside, via a slot on the bottom of the backside. You should do an internet search of get a service manual to see how drum brakes are typically put together. One side starwheel is right hand threads, the other left hand threads.
- When the drum is off, you will notice that one shoe typically has a longer pad than the other. Make sure you note which once is longer, so when you put the new ones on you get them on correctly.
- You'll notice typically two spring like devices holding each shoe on. You can get these off by putting a pair of vise grips on the end of it, push it in and turn it 90 degrees, then it will slide off the mounting pin.
- Make note of the starwheel, as to whether the starwheel is on the front side or the backside. The purpose of the starwheel, is to keep the brakeshoes in adjustment as they wear. As the shoes wear over the years, the movement of the shoes in and out via regular braking and usually going in reverse, will move a lever which adjusts the starwheel, pushing the bottom of the shoes further and futher apart.
- Notice any other pieces which are typical in drum brakes, which are used for auto-adjusting the brakes.
- The shoes, the starwheel, and any autoadjusting pieces should be off now.
- To take the hydralic wheel cylinder off now, you first disconnect the brake line from the wheel cylinder. Take care when disconnecting the brake line, as it may be frozen or slightly rusted. When you disconnect the brake line it will begin to drip brake fluid. I usually put it in the tip of a rubber glove and put a rubber band securely around it so keep it from dripping all over the place.
- Once the brake line is disconnected, you'll probably find two bolts in the back side of the cylinder. Remove these bolts and the wheel cylinder will come off. Make note of the position of the wheel cylinder. Sometimes they'll fit in rightside up or upside down. You need to make sure the bleed screw is on the top, so that when you bleed it the air will come out.
- Put together in reverse manner. Be careful not to get grease or brake fluid on the shoes. If you do get some surface dirt on the brake shoe, I use a little sandpaper to get it off.
- Inspect the drum, to make sure there aren't any grooves ground in it. You may have or want to take the drums to an autoparts store (PepBoys, AutoZone, etc), and they can true up the drum with a metal lathe.
- The new brake shoes will be thicker than the old, so you will need to adjust IN the starwheel. Otherwise, you won't be able to get the drum back on. I usually adjust the starwheel by hand, so that the drum is just able to get back on.

Shoes come in a set to do both sides, I personally would replace both wheel cylinders. The rubber boots go bad, the pistons leak over many years. You don't want to have to open these back up for years.

Once both sides are done, and drums are both back on, you'll need to bleed both brakes. When bleeding, use previous instructions.

These are generic instructions, since I don't have any manuals for your vehicle. You may find some slight differences with your specific vehicle. For instance, you may find the wheel cylinder held on with one bolt as opposed to two. You may have some extra autoadjustment gear.

Good Luck..