Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Honda Accord (1998-2002) Maintenance and Repair

Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,564
edited December 2013 in Honda
In order to make the original and highly popular “Honda Accord Owners: Problems and Solutions” forum more manageable, we are dividing that forum into “Accord generations”.

Please make sure you are in the right generation for your Accord, and then post your questions concerning any maintenance or repair item.

Thank you again for helping to make the Accord forums so great here at Edmunds!

MrShiftright
Host

MODERATOR

«13456775

Comments

  • tmaliktmalik Posts: 27
    Hi there,
    I own a 2002 Accord EX with about 45k miles on it. Lately when driving at night I've noticed a slight fading in the brightness of the instrument panel readouts, sort of in the center. The markings near the end of the tach and the beginning of the odometer are fading a bit. Any ideas/suggestions? Is this an easy fix? An expensive one? Unfortunately, the car is out of warranty now, but has been trouble-free so far.
    Thanks.
  • the_dthe_d Posts: 1
    2000 Honda Accord LX 4cyl Manual, Hi, I have a low Rpm when I'm stopped at a red light or stop sign, and 10 seconds later it resumes to normal idle, but it's rough at times and I get a vibrating sound as a result...it been going on for the last 2 1/2 weeks...I thought it could be the oil viscosity was warn out...changed the oil no difference...
  • 1998 Honda Accord EX 4cyl Automatic, Engine dies without any warning. But it will re-start again. It happens once in awhile. I visit Mel-rapton Honda, if it has a recall on the igniton switch, but according to vin#,they said no recall on it. Don't know what to do,
    http://www.autorecalls.org/1998/38667.shtml

    Some guys say just replace ignition switch, or main relay.
  • kuldskulds Posts: 4
    Hi everyone.
    Bought a 98 accord lx about 8 days ago from a dealer. Seemed fine. had 93k on it. the transmission failed yesterday. I have no warranty. Is the dealer liable or responsible for any expenses? The car stopped in the middle of the road, the mechanic said that the axle had popped. Please advice.
    I had not checked the car with a mechanic before buying it (should have), trusted his word that it was fine. And I do not have any warranty, the dealer sold it as is. Now I am not sure which way to go. I haven't spoken to the dealer yet. Should I go to 'Better Business Bureau' if the dealer does not help? It is not even 10 days since I bought it.
    Please advice.
  • A calm talk with the dealer may help with a "goodwill" fix, but "as is" clears them of any responsibility.

    Axles normally don't just pop out unless something is really worn, or the car just had an axle replaced, and the installer didn't correctly lock it into the transmission. If it's the latter, then it may just need to be reinstalled if nothing was damaged.

    You may want to have the car inspected by a mechanic to see what failed, and if an axle was just serviced, you could argue the dealer incorrectly repair the car.

    Good luck

    Mrbill
  • kuldskulds Posts: 4
    Thanks for the advice.
    I dont know as to why the axle failed yet. It may have worn out. I am getting it inspected by a mechanic. thanks.
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    if you bought a vehicle used from a dealer, did it come with a 30day warranty? what did the window sticker say?
  • I own a 2000 Honda Accord LX- The right headlight does not work- does anyone know how to fix this? -Do I need to replace the bulb or the whole headlight? Asked Dealer and they told me they had to take off the Front bumpber to fix this. is this true?
  • nlsnls Posts: 65
    Even though my car has only 60,000 miles on it, I will be getting the timing belt replaced, as Honda recommends it because of the age. I will also be getting the water pump and the balance shaft belt replaced at the same time. One dealer said that they typically replace all belts at this time, and another said that they recommend replacement of some seals, and perhaps the tensioners as well. Dealer price quotes are anywhere from $700 to $900 or more, based on the things that are being replaced. What is the general consensus?
  • The biggest cost of replacing the timing belt is getting to the belt. Once everything is disassembled, replacing the other items at this time is very easy since their exposed.

    Obviously, the only thing necessary is the timing belt. If that fails, it will damage the engine. Replacing the rest of the parts, well, how much are you willing to gamble? They could last till the car need another timing belt, but if they don't, you will be paying alot for labor at that time to have them replaced.

    Since I do my own belt, I did it all except for the seals.
    ($70 total for non Honda parts) You can see where the cost comes from, LABOR.

    Tough call

    Mrbill
  • nlsnls Posts: 65
    Labor is supposed to be around 4 to 5 hours, so even at $100 per hour, it will be $400-$500. So unless the genuine Honda parts are at a premium, there is probably a big mark up on parts as well, perhaps to cover the warranty. Is there a big quality difference between Honda parts and the after market parts?
  • Yes, Honda parts are more costly then aftermarket. Since I'm not planning on keeping the car for another 100k, I didn't purchase the most expensive aftermarket parts. If I did, it would have run another $25-$30.

    I'm sure like anything else, there is a quality difference between the brands of aftermarket parts. I would think that brand name aftermarket parts would be just as good as Honda parts, they may even be the actual supplier of the Honda part. In some cases with aftermarket parts, you can save $$ with rebuilt parts. Water pumps are a good example. they save castings and just replace the wear items. It was interesting though, I was able to purchase a new water pump for less then some of the rebuilt units. I suppose that it came from somewhere overseas. 30k miles so far with no problems.

    That's the one thing that bothers me about going to the dealer to have service work done. They get a premium price for labor, and a premium price for parts as well.

    Mrbill
  • can you buy a blank 2005 honda accord key and have it cut and the remote programmed to work for your 2001 honda accord?
  • I got same problem on my 1999 Accord LX 4 cyl auto wih 63k miles. My problem comes once in a while. The engine stops at the redlight or stop sign. I wonder if the idle controller went bad. I drove to a mechanic but the car went back to normal at that time. Will appreciate if any idea.
  • I have issues with the throttle sticking upon first start of the day or after sitting for many hours. Had repaired with recalls in past at no cost. Last time dealer charged $75 at same time of fixing recall issue. I feel it is a saftey issue and do not think I should be charged to fix this (oxidation build-up on the throttle over period of 1 1/2 to 2 yrs) as I was told it is a known problem on Hondas. Can anyone shed information on the situation?

    Second question is that the light behind my milage/trip-ometer is not working. Honda book does not cover fixing this. The fuses have been checked and seem fine, therefore I assume it is a bulb. Anyone have an idea of how to get to this or how to repair it without going to the dealership?
  • Hello, i have a 99' Honda Accord LX 4cl with 87K.

    Issue:
    I purchased this car used at a dealership. Before taking it in to them i want to see if i can take care of the problem myself. When accelerating to about 40mph and 2k rpm's the rpm needle begins to fluctuate up and down. The vehicle/engine feels as if it choking or stalling. When it is past this point i dont experience this problem any longer. Also, when it is below this speed i dont experience the problem either. The check engine light is now on as well.

    I would really appreciate the help.
  • Greetings!
    I own a 2000 Accord with 95K miles on it. The clock works, but the back light doesn't, so I can't see it at night. Do I have to replace the bulb, or the clock, and is possible for me to replace it myself? Thanks! :confuse:
  • vu2000vu2000 Posts: 58
    I used to own a 99 Accord and now a 2005 Accord. The key blanks are different. On the 2005, the keyless entry remote is build into the key. The Fcc ID number for the 2005 remote is different than the 99. A dealership I went to in DE wants $165 to cut the key and program the remote for the 2005 Accord. If you just need the remote for the 2001 Accord, you can buy it on Ebay for under $20 + shipping. Some seller on Ebay will also provide you with the programming instruction for the remote. As for the key, the Honda dealer is the only one I know that could program the key(the transponder chip embedded in the key has to be programmed by a Honda dealership).
  • inkieinkie Posts: 281
    You can pry the entire clock [non-permissible content removed]'y out to get to the bulb. Be careful use tape on prying tool
  • I bought a 2000 Honda Accord LX 4 door sedan 7 months ago. It only has 57,000 original miles on it. Two weeks ago, I began hearing a slight growling noise when accelerating. There was also a small oil/grease spot noticed on the garage floor on the front right quarter of the car. My long-time mechanic inspected it and said that the front right axle was unusually rusted, and needed to be replaced as it had too much play in it. After completing the job, he said that the noise was still there, and unfortunately it's coming from the transmission. He's been in business nearly 25 years, and can't recall having a Honda Accord transmission ever going with just 57,000 miles on it. He specializes in foreign car repairs, and said I should check to see if there were any posted Honda recalls on the differential / transmission! I checked a number of sights on the web, and found none!
    He says the part will run around $1100.00 and around $450 in labor for the job! This is my first Honda, and the way it's going, it may be my last! Your thoughts??!
  • I just replaced a headlight bulb on a 2001 Accord EX. It covers it in the owners manual. It was relatively easy. No bumper removal involved on my 2001. There was an access panel that you turned the bulb from inside the engine compartment. The only tricky part was releasing the plastic electrical switch that held the bulb. Check the owners manual.
  • I have a 2000 Accord and Honda extended the warranty on the automatics to 7 years or 100,000 miles.
  • Thanks for the response!
    I'll check with my local Honda representative if there is similar coverage on my vehicle!
    Have a great New Year!
  • the d,

    One of my friends said his car had same problem. He simply found a leak on the fuel pressure regulator. Reeplace it, the problem was solved.

    Another person with same problem solve it by replacing the torque converter clutch solenoid. When the converter clutch is engaged, it provides a mechanical link between the engine's crankshaft and transaxle input shaft, eliminating converter slip and increasing fuel economy 3-4 mpg. Very common on GM fwd 3 speed transaxles (occasionally affects overdrive models) for the solenoid to become contaminated with ferrous wear particles and bind in the applied position. The clutch can't release, and the net result is the same as stopping a manual transmission vehicle without depressing the clutch pedal.

    I am just quoting others' suggestion for your reference. Keep up posted about your problem.
  • haefrhaefr Posts: 600
    "When accelerating to about 40mph and 2k rpm's the rpm needle begins to fluctuate up and down. The vehicle/engine feels as if it choking or stalling. When it is past this point i dont experience this problem any longer."

    Does your car have an automatic transmission? If so, the engine speed fluctuations around 40 mph may be the torque converter lockup "hunting" - especially if you're ascending a slight grade. Either slow down below 40 mph or speed up faster than 42 mph. (Once locked to vehicle speed, the engine speed will decrease around 200 RPM, so I suspect that's all it is.) If the former owner or the dealer changed out the automatic transmission fluid with non-Honda fluid, a condition known as "juddering" can occur, too. It's the same process but more pronounced due to non-Honda fluids not having the proprietary friction modifier chemistry for smoothest possible TC engagement in Hondamatic transmissions.
  • I have 71K on my Accord. Brakes were making a high pitched squeeling noise. Took the car to the dealership, which stated that I need to get front pads replaced. I did that and got the rear pads replaced too.

    Car still has the high-pitched squeel. It seems as if it goes away when I accelerate. I think it can also be heard when the car is stopped with brakes pressed. Any thoughts?
  • I own an '02 Accord coupe with the 2.3l 4-cyl and 5-spd manual...about 37,000 miles. Any time it's been sitting long enough to be fully "cold" (and this seems to be almost totally independent of the outside temperature), the engine, beginning within 5-10 seconds after start, makes what I can only describe as a "clattering" sound. It lasts a minute or two, then quiets down.

    The only thing to which I can compare it is my old Ford Bronco II, which with 100,000-plus miles started making a similar noise for a few seconds on cold starts (valve lifters leaking down and having to refill with oil, or so I understand).

    Anyway, I've had the car to the dealership for this issue (I bought it certified used). They adjusted the valves, but it made no difference.

    Anyone have any ideas? Similar experiences? This can't be normal; it's not a subtle noise. It bugs me that my well maintained, low-mileage Honda makes this kind of a racket--particularly when other Honda 4-cylinder engines I've heard sound like sewing machines in comparison.

    Thanks!
  • For what it's worth, this sounds exactly like a problem I used to have with my '98 Acura 3.0CL (mechanically, an Accord V6). Automatic transmission. Always happened at 40mph...the entire car would start to shudder as the engine seemed to die, then catch, then die again repeatedly.

    Never got anything but "could not duplicate" from the dealership. It was a leased vehicle that I returned shortly afterward, so never really had to deal with it. In my case, at least, it seems unlikely to have had anything to do with the transmission fluid, as I leased the car new and know it was never hanged (car only had about 28,000 miles when this started).
  • haefrhaefr Posts: 600
    What viscosity motor oil and what brand oil filter are you using? Have you checked the oil level recently with the motor fully warmed, shut off, and on level ground? I believe Honda recommends only 5W-20 viscosity for your model year. If some idiot put 10W-40, or 20W-50 motor oil in that motor, normal leakdown overnight and cold start would combine to leave the top end oil starved initially due to too viscous oil not readily flowing initially. FRAM oil filters have been implicated by some as prone to causing startup noise, too, due to alleged improper bypass valve operation that's supposed to direct cold, unfiltered oil directly into the engine until oil pressure settles down as the oil heats up (unfiltered oil being better than no oil). I have no personal basis for believing that FRAM and FRAM-made oil filters are the oil filter equivalent of original sin, but most Honda oil filters sold by dealerships in North America are actually made in a Canadian FRAM factory for Honda. (If it's the FRAM-made unit, it'll say "Made in Canada" on the filter.) Given the noise your car's motor makes soon after startup, I would first verify that the hot oil level is within the "Full" and "Add Oil" markings. If that checks out, I'd drain the current motor oil and replace it with 5W-20 or 5W-30 motor oil - any brand of your choice, just make sure it's listed as "SL" or, preferably, "SM" in the API "donut" on the back of the bottle. (Ford Motorcraft and Phillips 66 are synthetic blends at very low prices when purchased at WalMart.) I'd also change the oil filter to a fresh Purolator "PremiumPLUS" 14459 (This is Purolator's equivalent for your model year Honda applications. Don't worry about using a Purolator product - they also supply OEM and aftermarket filters to Chrysler, and some aftermarket Ford Motorcraft brand oil filters sold through Ford and national discount chains.). If starting afresh with the proper viscosity quality motor oil and a quality oil filter doesn't cure the initial cold start noise, I'd then go to a different Honda dealer's service department and/or contact American Honda on their toll-free phone number in the warranty supplement booklet that came packed in your owner's manual portfolio.

    As an aside, I don't own a Honda. I own a Hyundai Sonata. Hyundai came out with a technical service bulletin about six months ago implicating unnamed aftermarket oil filters in a knocking noise at idle. Word on the street is that FRAMs were involved, though I have no way of verifying that allegation. Still it's curious. I haven't used FRAMs for over a decade. FRAM was acquired by Honeywell Systems a few years ago and that's about when the rumors started about their declining quality. Yet the fact that Honda trusts FRAM to make their OEM and service filters for the north American market has to count for something, too, I would think. Please keep us posted.
  • I have started noticing on my 2001 Accord that the plastic headlights are starting to fade/dull at the top of both. The car is always parked outside. I have always hand washed since I bought it new. Does anyone know of way to stop the progression?
«13456775
Sign In or Register to comment.