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Jeep Cherokee

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  • dancermandancerman Posts: 220
    maybe you have water in your gas tank. try adding a can of dry gas or drain the tank completely.
  • One of the shops put a drying agent in the gas tank & it didn't help. Haven't tried draining the tank completely though ... thanks for the advice. That almost seems too easy, so hopefully that'll be it!
  • Just in case draining the gas tank doesn't do the trick ... has anyone else out there had problems with a 95 Cherokee (or any car for that matter) stalling out randomly & stumbling at high speeds??? If so, please help!
  • vin_weaselvin_weasel Posts: 237
    Jeeps Unlimited
    Naxja

    Both are very good resources (naxja more for technical quesitons)
  • Thanks! I'll do that right now.
  • It might be some sort of an intermittant interruption of electrical power. The clue is that you said your steering wheel locks up. If your ignition is still on when the engine stalls, and you still have electrical power, your steering wheel shouldn't lock up. OTOH, maybe you have just lost power steering, and your wheel isn't locked, it just becomes very hard to turn.

    BTW, I have a '93 Cherokee Sport with the 4.0 L and 5 speed. Over 170,000 mi. and it's been bullet proof--the most reliable car I've ever owned, including a Honda Accord. Engine still as strong as the day I got it. Actually feels stronger. Wish they still made it, or at least put the 5-speed into the GC. Don't like the Liberty. Too cutesy.

    Jim
  • Thanks for the tips. Someone mentioned the crank position sensor so I'm going to have the dealer check that out. I never even thought about losing power steering ... that's probably what it is. I agree with you about the Liberty - not rugged at all & way too cutesy.
  • sandyboysandyboy Posts: 114
    I agree. The Liberty is/was a mistake! I rushed out & ordered an '01 Cherokee Limited, getting just under the wire of cut-off, as I was scared of what the Liberty might be, and it brought forth my worst fears. Had I waited, I'd be in a Ford Escape, but I am much happier in my JC. Thank you. Mercedes should not meddle in what they don't know!
  • dorrie9dorrie9 Posts: 2
    Lindsey,
    My '98 Cherokee also stalls and misses, but only on the highway after I've driven about 100 miles. It's in the shop right now, but the dealer can't figure out what's wrong. Did you ever find out what was causing you Jeep to stall and miss? My problem sounds a lot like yours, but the electricial system doesn't shut off. The radio and AC stay on, but the engine dies. I had my crank shaft sensor replaced. That helped for a while, but the problem keeps occurring. I'm afraid to go out of town. It died while I was trying to merge onto the interstate.
    Help!
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,233
    Let me know what you find if anything. I have a similar problem on my '01, but it happens maybe once a month and I do about 200 miles a day. Hard to track down something that rare. Mine usually runs perfect unless I run fairly hard, then shut-down for a few minutes and restart. It idles rough and has low power until I start driving then it's fine. Has also done it after its idled for 40 minutes or so. First time happened around 7K miles, and maybe 10 times since. I'm over 50K miles now.
  • Hey guys. Well the mechanic never actually found anything definite. But he said it was probably one of four possibilities (with 2 being the most likely). He mentioned the throttle positioning sensor (TPS), the idle air control, the crank shaft sensor & the ignition coil. He said the TPS & the idle air control were the most likely problems, so I had those replaced. And so far, so good. I've had my jeep back for 2 whole days now & I've probably driven it about 150 miles & I've had no problems. So I would suggest those 2 parts (especially you, dorrie, since you already had the crank shaft sensor replaced). Good Luck & let me know what you decide & if it works ... just in case!!
  • indy11indy11 Posts: 1
    I'm a college student that finally scrimped and saved enough to buy my first Cherokee, and I'm so excited I can't stand it. I started small, SE 2 door, mint condition, 30,000 miles, owner traded it for a truck to haul stuff for his business. Mechanic says it's in A-1 shape but I want to keep it that way. Is there anything in particular I should be on the lookout for? I've read enough reviews to make me dizzy.
  • sandyboysandyboy Posts: 114
    You may have started small, but in so doing you wound up with the "rarest" model AND bodystyle. Good Luck with it!
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Posts: 10,897
    Sorry for the major spam attack, but this one kinda sounds like fun...

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    MODERATOR
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    Share your vehicle reviews

  • vin_weaselvin_weasel Posts: 237
    Did you get the 6 or 4 cylinder? 2 doors are fairly rare.
  • Hi everyone--I have a question about my 1996 Jeep Cherokee Classic 4x4 4.0 6cyl...this vehicle has 158,000 miles on it and has never given me a minute's trouble (knock on wood). Excuse my ignorance, but does this vehicle have a timing CHAIN that needs to be checked/replaced at this stage? I have had the serpentine belt replaced, but I am unclear as to whether this vehicle has a timing chain. The owner's manual says nothing about a timing chain. Can someone help? THANKS
  • vin_weaselvin_weasel Posts: 237
    You do have one and the only information I can find between my Haynes and my FSM for an '01 is that you can take the cover off on the block and check the chain for deflection by moving the chain side to side. My Haynes says that if it moves more than 1/2 inch the chain and sprockets should be replaced.

    BTW, both the Haynes and FSM don't mention ever checking the timing chain but the FSM only goes up to 120k miles and the Haynes uses 30k mile intervals to check the same things.
  • shucknetshucknet Posts: 98
    Just bought a 1990 Cherokee 4x4 with the I4.0L engine - has 148,000 miles. Drives nice, except for a "minor" detail. The transmission leaks like a sieve when the fluid gets heated up. Is this a common problem for these? It appears to be the front seal, but I can't quite tell for sure.

    Thoughts?
  • vin_weaselvin_weasel Posts: 237
    It's ATF and not Oil, right? I've heard of problems with the rear main seal that can go after a while but that usually results in oil loss. I don't believe the replacement job is too hard, it's just dirty and the seal has to be on just right.
  • imaginosimaginos Posts: 27
    The timing chain is not as critical in this engine as in other newer technology engines (OHC). This engine is not an "interference" engine, like Honda engines (for example). This means that if the timing chain breaks, it will simply quit running - and will not damage the motor. However, if the timing belt breaks in an "interference" engine, it will crash the valves into the pistons and engine death occurs. That is why you have to change the timing belt every 60K miles on a Honda or even a Toyota Tacoma etc, etc, etc, as they all have interference engines.

    My 1997 Sport has 50K miles and I've never checked it, and don't plan to unless it breaks or I hit 150K miles, or stops running well.

    BTW - vin weasel - I did lose my rear main seal at about 30K miles. Pissed me off quite a bit, just barely got it in under my 36 month warranty - I had to teach the dealer how to know it was the rear main seal. They tried to tell me it was engine "sweat". Dealers are idiots. I think this could have been caused from pulling a boat with it a lot, increasing crank case pressure, and eventually blowing out the seal.

    Installed Rancho RSX shocks a few weeks ago. They seem OK, still rides rough, but handles large obstacles on mountain roads very well. Still sucks at washboards - can't even control it. But I think that is the case will all Cherokees - my friends Civic could outdrive the crap out of me on 40 miles of dirt road washboards. It must be soft enough to keep the wheels on the ground - unlike my Cherokee....
  • vin_weaselvin_weasel Posts: 237
    How much fluid was your engine losing? What kind was it? Do you think it could leak transmission fluid from there? I don't have a heck of a lot of experience with them.

    My first real experience with washboard in the Jeep was coming home one night on a gravel road going about 90km/h. I hit some big washboard and the vehicle went sideways on me. I quickly regained control and slowed down. I've never had a vehicle do that to me before, but then again I never had a Solid Axle Jeep. I know now to avoid the rough stuff at high speed or to at least slow down a bunch. I think softer valved shocks, like Old Man Emu, might help lessen the effects or maybe the adjustible Ranchos. I have no problems going at speed down some of the forest trails. The vehicle eats up the larger bumps fairly well and I never feel like I'm loosing control.
  • Could anyone tell me what kind of mileage they are getting with the 4.0Liter engine? I'm interested in highway, in-town, and combination. I'm considering trading in my thirsty Liberty for another 4WD. Thanks in advance....
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,233
    between 19-20mpg with mainly highway/commuting. Probably 80% highway, 20% city. On long all-highway trips I can get around 24mpg. I'm pretty hard on the throttle most of the time and run 75mph usually. I'm sure 65mph and sensible driving would make things a bit better:)
  • imaginosimaginos Posts: 27
    Vin:

    1997 Sport 4x4 5sp. There was engine oil dripping down the bell housing. Just enough to make a drip in the driveway evey now and then. I think most of it was blowing off while driving, but that area was always "wet". I never lost enough between oil changes to even add oil, but I don't like to own vehicles that drip oil.....plus I got it in under warranty. I really don't think you could have tranny fluid leak down the front of the bell housing. It's just too far in front of the tranny box (at least on the 5 sp.).

    More washboards: Same deal, it'll walk sideways and you'll loose some control until you are off of the bumps or off the road and rolled! I think it's a Jeep thing, a combination of stiff suspension, stiff shocks, short wheelbase and solid front axle. My Rancho RSX shocks are auto-adjustable, but perhaps the 9000 series fully manual adjustable shocks would help - you can make them really soft or really stiff. Like you said, it does fine on larger more isolated bumps and rocks, but those washboards make the whole Jeep go into some sort of resonant oscillation - sucks....

    vanleighton:

    Mileage - I have every tank of gas documented since it was new, but have only added up the statistics for the first four years (97 to 01). My driving is 80% very short (1-3) mile trips to and from work and 20% actually highway trips. About 7% would be pulling a boat as well, so that will bring the averages down some. Also, keep in mind it is a 5 speed tranny:

    Total average for four years all conditions is 17.01 mpg with a standard deviation of 2.47 mpg. Best mileage tank of gas was 22.4 mpg (of course with no boat and all highway miles). Worst mileage tank of gas was 9.8 mpg (all pulling a boat with a lot of hills). Also, I live at about 4500 feet elevation which may be why I never see this 24 mpg stuff that people talk of. I just can't believe anyone gets 24 mpg out of that 4.0 L engine!!!! You are lucky...

    Hope this helps.
  • boggseboggse Posts: 1,048
    I get about 18-19 in the city. On long trips I get 24 if I keep it below 75mph. It seems once I hit 75 it drops to about 20-22. Maybe an aerodynamic limit?
  • vin_weaselvin_weasel Posts: 237
    I average about 18mpg Imperial in the summer (14 is the worst in winter, ouch) for 100% city driving and the best I've had on the highway was 26+ Imperial. I think those numbers convert to 15.5 city and 22.3 roughly. This is with a drop-in K&N filter and Mobil-1 synthetic oil.

    The funny thing is, and I've heard this from quite a few XJ owners, is that your mileage will improve as the Jeep ages. Mine has gone up considerably ( a couple mpg) from when it was new to about 18k km (when I switched to synthetic and the K&N.
  • great forum. anyways my question is this: how do I know if a jeep cherokee has the up-country suspension package and the Trac-lock differential package(this is the one where the rear diff is basically a limited slip right?)? Are there serial numbers somewhere on the axles or some other place? Just wondering because I want these options on a used cherokee. Any info appreciated!!!!
  • imaginosimaginos Posts: 27
    Up-country suspension: I'll have to dig into my literature from when I ordered my 97 with that option - first recall to my mind is that the up-country suspension deleted the rear stabilizer (sway?) bar. You could do some looking under the back-end and if this is true, you should see a sway bar on most Cherokees.

    Ok - found my stuff - this option adds the following:

    1. Fuel tank / transfer case / front suspension skid plates. But - you could be deceived here, because these skid plates are an option all on their own.

    2. Trac-lok differential (limited slip). Unlike a posi, you can't simply jack up the back and turn one rear wheel and see if the other will turn the same direction. With the limited slip, they will turn opposite directions like a conventional axle hanging in the air. Perhaps others have an easy way to see if it has the limited slip.

    3. Upgraded engine cooling system - again, not sure how you tell as I've not really looked at any other Cherokee but mine. My guess is that this upgrade also comes as part of the tow package too - so you could be deceived as well on this one.

    4. Full size spare tire.

    5. Front / rear tow hooks.

    6. Off highway increased height suspension (I think it's about 3/4" to 1" higher than without) - may be hard to notice.

    7. You're supposed to see a liftgate mounted "Up Country" decal, but mine never had that - nor have I ever seen one - ever. So not sure if that is real or what.

    Overall - I'm sort of pissed becasue Edmunds does not have this option when you go to figure out how much your Cherokee is worth, but the option retailed for $835.00 and you can't even add that to the vehicle value on this site.

    Anyway - hope it helps, but sounds hard to me to tell for sure if you're getting it.
  • sandyboysandyboy Posts: 114
    The REAL Clue are the front Tow Hooks. This is the one item that is not offerred as a "Stand-Alone" option. Nor is it in the Trailer Tow Pkg. Front Tow Hooks = Up Country Suspension.
  • vin_weaselvin_weasel Posts: 237
    on the rear diff that will state to use the special additive when changing the gear oil. Plus you can always have a dealership run the VIN.
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