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Chevy Silverado and GMC Sierra Starting Problems

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  • I own a 96 Silverado with a 305 engine 130,xxx miles. It has been running great until last week. I got in one morning and it would not start. I automatically thought it was the battery. but then I notice my lights and radio and all were working fine, plus when i would turn the key i could hear it hitting the starter. I went ahead and had the battery tested and it is fine. The truck will not start on its own but if I use another car to jump it, it still will not start. Im not sure what to check next? If anyone has any ideas that could help please let me know. :confuse:
  • 2001hd2001hd Posts: 2
    Hi, i have a 2001 1500HD with the 6.0 that was doing the same thing and it was my starter... just thought i would mention... i even had every dealer around run 150.00 worth of test on it before i found out my self it was the starter!!
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    Try banging on the starter with a ball peen hammer and see if it will start.
  • jamnayjamnay Posts: 3
    having start problems has spark how do you locate and check pressure reg thx
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    Fuel pumg regulator pressure?
  • Mty 2000 gmc sierra 5.3 is harder start when it is warm. You have to crank on it a few times then it starts. Sometime if you give it alittle gas when you are cranking it it starts faster. once it starts it runs fine
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    Sounds like a bad fuel regulator or check valve.
  • i got a 2001 silverado 1500 and it wont start it turns over and fires and then dies right away i kept it started with starting fluid for a few seconds just to make sure it ran it did anybody got any suggestions
  • My 95 gmc 1500 350 has stalled out every so often when comming to a stop for over a year and normally starts right back up. This time it won't start. Ive changed plugs and wires , cap and roter, and ignition control module. Turns over fast but won't even attempt to start. I know it has no spark but not sure if im getting fuel. I've tried starting fluid but still nothine. I was thinking maybe replace the ignition coil and distributer next??? Thanks
  • Driving and all sudden lost all power and died. Would turn over but not start. Had towed. All gauges light up but my fuel gauge went to empty and I had plenty of fuel when I was driving. Checked all fuses they seem to be fine. I will run test but wondered if anyone has any idea. Put a new fuel pump on about a year ago, and heater core connectors and other than u joints and brakes and keeping oil and filter change, I haven't had any problems. Does have alot of miles. Any ideas??? My check engine light did come on a day ago but went out. Kablelynn
  • 2002 SILVERADO 5.3 ENGINE. WHEN I TURN THE KEY TO START NOTHING HAPPENS EXCEPT ALL THE GAGES COME ON.I GOT TO TURN THE KEY 30 TO 50 TIMES TILL THE TRUCK TURNS OVER AND STARTS.I DONT KNOW WHERE TO START LOOKING?
  • i have the same problem, let me know how your problem comes out on fixing it.
  • I've been desperately searching for answers online and have read all 103 posts in this forum - I'm leaning towards fuel pump at this point, but at around $250 and with the requirement of tank removal I'm trying to really be sure I get this right; I'll keep you posted.

    For now though let me share what the last 4 days has shown me.

    Vehicle: 2004 Silverado 4WD 5.3 Z71 fully loaded
    Anomalies: We've had colder than usual temperatures and a lot of snow and ice here in Salem, Or for the past week - other than that it's life as usual.

    The facts:
    - Pulled in to work Monday and shut the truck off
    - An hour later went out to start the truck and all it would do is crank, no fire at all
    - After a half hour of screwing around it finally started and ran fine
    - Over the next 6 hours I had intermittent problems, it would always crank fine, it wouldn't always start. When it did it ran normal.
    - Called the dealer and a tech told me that he was 99% sure it was the fuel pump, "save yourself $95 of diagnostics and just buy one and put it in" he said.
    (NOTE) New fuel pump prices range from $200 to $542 depending on OEM vs aftermarket and the parts house you call
    - I decided that a $95 check was worth the investment and took the truck to the dealership for testing.
    - An hour and $322 later I pulled out of the service bay with a new crankshaft position sensor - "fuel delivery system checked out OK, but your battery is showing some weak indications, we suggest you change it before it leaves you stranded. It could also be part of your sensor problem."
    - Ran the truck 2 days, no problems, an occasional rough idle was also gone
    - Yesterday morning (xmas) I spent 3 1/2 hours clearing my elderly neighbor's driveway. The truck was either idling or running hard in 4wd for the duration of the time while I cleared down trees and made my way through a foot of snow going up their driveway. The truck gave me no problems.
    - Afterward I made a few trips to town and everything runs good

    - Now, this morning....walk out to the truck and hit the keypad to unlock the doors; nothing. I unlock the door with the key and then hit the button on the arm rest to unlock the door - nothing.
    - Put the key in and the truck barely starts due to the battery being weak.
    - I let it warm up and let the battery charge for about 15 minutes and then shut the truck off and try to restart it, for some reason thinking that the door locks might reset or something. I also notice that my fuel gauge is on E, so I add some gas thinking that maybe I ran it out and didn't notice. I added about 5 gallons and the gauge didn't move.
    - I turn the key and the truck fires and dies with every turn of the key.
    - I don't have a fuel pressure gauge but I pushed the button in on the fitting and when the key is turned on or cranking there is LOTS of fuel spraying out.
    - I pulled the weak battery and get the old man to give me a ride down to swap the battery, Schwab's tests the battery and finds nothing wrong, but agrees to warranty it since it gave me problems early in the morning.
    - Installed new battery and the condition is the same; cranks, fires, dies.

    That's my story. I'm stuck with 10 inches of snow on the ground with a dead truck and a B-Mer that can't clear the ruts in the driveway - what a deal 'eh!?

    Next move: a buddy of mine is picking me up shortly, I'm going to buy the on board diagnostics (OBD) software kit from the local parts house and run a full check, if that doesn't surface anything I guess I'm pulling the tank and changing the pump assembly.

    Something just clicked; the fuel gauge sending unit is part of the fuel pump and in-tank filter assembly, I suppose there could be a connection or a supporting indication here since the engine seems to be starving for fuel (only firing briefly and then dying) and my fuel level indicator appears to be stuck on E when I know there is at least 5 gallons or roughly a 1/4 full tank.

    Replies are welcome but this has been more of a venting session and a sharing of information than anything else. It does appear that most of the posts are symptoms only with little mentioned about final outcomes, so I will re-post with results as they become available.

    Anyone interested in a '04 Silverado? Will trade for a pre '80s Ford or Chevy 3/4T pickup of which I can diagnose and fix with screwdriver, some duct tape, and a volt meter.... ;) WELL IT'S TRUE!!!!

    Thanks for reading, more to come.

    BJ
    Salem, Or
  • in-tank filter assembly - was the answer for us. It was a pain in the rump removing the gas tank, but seems to have worked for me. Good luck.
  • **UPDATE**

    First of all, a little more information on what isn't working. In addition to my door locks the seat heaters, window controls, and the radio are not functioning. When the key is inserted and turned to ON the HUD lights up but says; UNKNOWN PASSENGER and when the shift lever is moved there is no indication as to what gear it is in. When the key is turned off a variety of jibberish type characters appear at random.

    That said, I couldn't get myself to believe that the fuel pump was my problem, so I went and purchased a fuel pressure tester and an OBD II engine scanner. Pressure indicated was 62# at the initial turn of the key and 55# while cranking which is within the specifications I have found.

    I plugged in the OBD scanner and it could not make a connection; key on or off it just kept saying; "Trying to establish a communications link" I tested the unit on another vehicle and all scans completed with no error.

    I've tested every fuse I could find for continuity and they all checked out. I tested every applicable relay skipping only those that referenced something like head lights or fog lights. I tested all fuses that I could find, that even seemed to relate to the ignition system, for voltage; I don't know the the exact voltages required, but all those tested had approximately 12V showing, +/- .2V or so.

    I'm stumped. The only thing I can believe is that one of the modules has gone haywire, it is my understanding that there are at least two; PCM (Powertrain Control Module) and the BCM (Body Control Module, which I believe to be a sub-system of the PCM)

    I guess I'm going to have to break down and take it in to the dealer for another $95 verification. It is my understanding that a PCM replacement with relearn is a spendy repair, so I'm hoping they find something that I've over looked....... a blown fuse would be nice...... an expensive oversight, but nice.
  • I got a 2002 chevy silverado 2500 HD went to go to work this morning and nothing.
    Its got a brand new battery, brand new starter, its got voltage, i can hear the fuel pump turning on, but the starter makes no noise at all. I have checked all the ignition fuses i could see, dont know what to do next please help
    :confuse:
  • **UPDATE**

    Short version: Connectors at the PCM were checked and corrosion and water was found, the connections were cleaned, greased, and reinstalled and she fired right up. I got the truck back last night, the only pending problem I've noticed is that the XM radio, which was factory installed, does not come up as an option on the radio. Other than that it's running like top.
  • What exactly has voltage? If you have voltage to the solenoid and to the starter when the key is turned, and assuming some force field isn't interfering with the case grounding of the starter, I'd say you got a bunk starter or at least a bunk solenoid on the starter.

    If you don't have voltage at the starter motor or solenoid have you checked the obvious items such as fuses/circuit breakers?
  • Normally '95 truck starts and runs fine. Have had temps of minus 20 for 10 days and it is affecting everything, including my ability to remain outside working on the truck!
    Three batteries in 3 months. Charge battery, lights shine bright. Turn switch to ON and voltage only indicates 8. Turn switch to START and lights dim a little, solenoid clicks half-heartedly and starter will not turn.
    Put a jumper on and no change. Still will not start. When switch ON volts are only 8.
    Put an amp meter on the ground line with ignition switch off and there is a residual 0.8 amp drain on the battery. I usually disconnect the ground line from the battery overnight to protect the charge for the next morning. Have not been able to find the source of the ground leak (pulled all fuses, relays etc and still a constant drain).
    Sometimes if I leave the charger attached for 10 minutes, it starts up OK.
    While running the volts indicate 15-16 initially, then settle to 14 when battery is fully charged. If I start within an hour after shutting down it works, but if I leave it more than 2 hours it is dead. All indications of a good battery (lights bright) until I turn on the switch. Maybe the temperature stops the voltage from reading right?
    I suspect the starter is faulty, taking power but not turning over, but if the volts are reading right, why does the volts read only 8 when the ignition switch is on? If it was really 8, the lights would be dim? If it is the starter, would not the volts drop only when I turn the switch to START?
  • Hey Jedi Master!!
    Where is the fuel pressure regulator? Do you know where the crankshaft position sensor Is?
    My truck won't start until the second or third turn over..it used to start right away. It runs fine when it is started. Could those two things be my problem?
    Thank you
  • This may be common knowledge but I have found it easier to remove the bed while changing a fuel pump. I have done this for years. If you have a buddy help lift the bed at the wheel wells you can put the front part of the bed on the tire and the rear part of the bed on the bumper, also remove the tailgate, ground strap, unplug the tail light wires and fuel fill neck. It's really nice when the tank is full (lol).
  • yank1yank1 Posts: 1
    I am new to this and did not see an answer to your question. I have the same problem. Did you get an anwwer and/or get it resolved? thanks.
  • No I did not get a reply. It seems to be clear though; after the temps came up it retains battery charge and starts normally. I guess it is a problem with cold weather. I put a pan heater on it and will use that whenever it gets cold, and maybe a battery blanket will help too. Most frustrating, I have been driving the truck for the last few days with absolutely no problems and it is a pleasure. I like my truck. Now watch me regret saying that...
  • Hi, here's my problem. My father owns a 2000 silverado pickup. The truck only has 70,000 kms. Whenever the temp is hits below -20 the truck will not start. It turns over just fine but just won't start. He's had the fuel pump changed and a new battery put in, and still won't start. As soon as the temp goes above -20 the truck starts no problem and runs perfect. He has brought it to several mechanics who can't seem to figure out what is wrong with it. The latest thing he is trying is injector cleaner, but I can't see this being the problem because the truck runs fine in warmer weather and starts with no problems. I would appreciate any info anyone can give me on this issue. Thanks in advance.
  • I was told the problem with my truck was the starter motor. At the cold temps it takes more energy to turn the engine over and if the starter motor is not near perfect it cannot manage it, the battery goes down and no start. I bought the starter motor but the temperatures came up and I currently have no problem. Sent the starter back, it cost close to $200 and I am looking for a cheaper one before I spend the time working on the truck in the cold (it is still below freezing here).
  • The starter seems to be working fine. The truck turns over like it was summer, the only thing is, it does not fire up. It almost seems as though it's not receiving enough fuel to start it, but this is only once the temp has hit below -20. I don't get it.
  • You are absolutely correct. I originally thought it was the security system because when I turned the key only the dashboard lights came on, not the engine. I finally had it towed to the dealer and they replaced my starter assembly. It was costly, a few hundred dollars, however, I have no more problems.
  • Twztd1Twztd1 Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 GMC Sierra 4.3L 2WD.
    I am currently having trouble installing a new Crankshaft position sensor.
    I've replaced the old sensor with a new one I picked up at O'Reillys. It is cranking but my truck won't start.
    Am I missing something? Do I need to do anything aside from just a swap out on the part?

    Any info would be greatly appreciated.
  • Well, injector cleaners did not solve the starting problem. Now I have no idea where to start. Would anyone have any clue on what to check on. My father has just purchased a Toyota Tundra and has given the Chev to me. Now it's my problem to figure out! DOH!
  • Hello,
    My batteries went dead and I attempted to jump start with a power pack and had no success. Engine would not even turn over. I bought two new batteries and installed them. Now the engine cranks great, but engine will not start. Is there possibly a lockout that could have operated that is preventing the engine from getting fuel? I read in my owner's manual about "PASSLOCK", but it does not give me any information on how to reset it, and it states that it only operates if one tampers with the ignition or is attempting to start with incorrect key. I bled the fuel filter looking for air, but good fuel came out the top bleede screw opening immediately, so I don't understand WHY i am not getting fuel, if that is, in fact, the case. Thanks for any information/advice offered. jcrichmond
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