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Chevy Silverado and GMC Sierra Starting Problems



  • Thanks, i appreciate the help
  • hey i got the same truck, same problem and have no idea what to do, changed the fuel filter, checked the plugs, changed a bad o2 sensor still got nothing if you have any answers at this point i woould really appreciate it thanks

  • I am having the same issue. Have you found anything that will help us?

  • mmoonmmoon Posts: 5
    We chaned the fuel filter, checked the line for pressue and had pressure to the carb, but did not get a start. Then changed the fuel pump (in tank with the screen also required), and got a start immediately. System requires a high pressre to wok anseven with a working pump we were not gettingenough pressure. A new ful ilter and screen did the trick. AS a preventitive measue we has also at first changed the fuel fuse relay? Pressure at the carb from he pump is the key. Good Luck
  • mmoonmmoon Posts: 5
    We chaned the fuel filter, checked the line for pressue and had pressure to the carb, but did not get a start. Then changed the fuel pump (in tank with the screen also required), and got a start immediately. System requires a high pressre to wok anseven with a working pump we were not gettingenough pressure. A new ful ilter and screen did the trick. AS a preventitive measue we has also at first changed the fuel fuse relay? Pressure at the carb from he pump is the key. Good Luck
  • Hey all,

    I have a 2001 Chevy 2500 HD. For some reason which I cant explain I'm having problems starting it. I've changed the batteries, alternator, spark plugs and spark plug wires, and fuel filter. Now ever time I try to start it up I can hear to fuel pump kicking on, I can smell the gas going through to the engine and the starter is kicking, but the engine just is not catching. Does anybody out there have any clue as to why my truck won't start aside from kremlins?

  • Hey guys,
    2002 GMC HD, about 80,000 miles, having problems starting.
    She starts alright, but it seem to take a few cranks.
    At first it I thought it might be the gas., but I've goon through several tanks of gas. I've replaced the fuel filter, the ignition wires, the plugs, and the fuel filter again. Any Ideas?

  • My truck starts roughly only when it is cold in the morning after it has been parked for 10+ hours. Plugs and wires are new, idle air control new, pcv valve new....any ideas? This has been going on for a long time. Thanks in advance.
  • My 2003 silverado will not start in the cold. My battery keeps getting run down and then I give it a quick jump and and it runs fine. My meter says that the battery is retaining a full charge so that leads me to believe my alternator is fine. Any suggestions.
  • Problem maybe fuel pump also have experienced this simular prob with 02' Avalanche. Found that if I pump the gas pedal 1 time before starting it will start 1st or second time always so far, lot of cash to replace rite now, will wait until goes out. Hope that helps
  • replied to wrong thread sorry
  • tscw25tscw25 Posts: 1
    I have an 01 Sierra with 6.0 V-8. Drove it a few miles last week and shut it off. Went back a few hours and it will not start. Does not crank, grind, click, anything. All electrical systems "appear" to be working. Battery is not dead, all fuses and relays in the fuse boxes have been checked. It is as if there is no power at all going to the starter. Any ideas?
  • i have a 03 with the same problem its like its completely dead i need help
  • I have a '02 Chevy 1500 5.3 liter with 55k miles. I put on a K&N air filter and tornado about 3 years ago and was consistanty getting 17.5+ mpg. During the last 7 months, mpg has been steadlily, consistantly going down. My last tank was 13.5 mpg for the same kind of driving as usual. The air filter is clean, I replaced the fuel filter, the tire pres is good, the spark plugs were replaced (they were in good condition), and I get no indications (check engine light, eng perform.) that something is wrong. I use premium gas because I found that I got more mpg per dollar by doing so.
    Also, in the Chilton maint book it says that a bad EGR valve could cause poor mpg. The thing is that my eng doesn't have one even though my VIN # (with a "T" in it) indicates it should (the chevy maint people can't explain it). The decrease in mpg seems to have started when I put on all terrain tires. The psi on these tires are 45 (compared to 35psi stock tires) and they are about the same in diameter. If it were the tires, wouldn't I see the difference instantly and not over time? The Chilton book suggests checking the exhaust and emissions systems. How do I do that? Any other suggestions??
  • Own two 2000 Chev pickups. One of them will sometimes start with a "metal clanging" sound, and the battery gauge will be low. Now when it does this, the key will not turn the truck off . . . it finally dies. This noise problem/low charge problem is not happening every time truck is started, but seems to be getting worse.

    The other 2000 chev p/u would not start, so bought a new battery, started, but the battery charging gauge is low. Help, pls.
  • HELP! 2002 silverado 4.8 4x4 extracab 90kmi.Is it possessed?several times over last few months,turn key to start-guages go nuts and truck goes completely dead-nothing,nada,zilch.Happened today.Sitting there with driver door open,scratching my head,door dinger began working and interior light began working,but only clicks when key is 750cca battery.If I turn key to on,volt meter in dash reads 14v-turn key to start and goes blank again-as if no battery were in truck.
    ANY CLUES???????????????
  • i had the same problem with a 2003 2500HD 4-WD diesel the problem was the gage cluster was draining the batteries when it was sitting for more than nine hours it was not related to cold weather it happened in the spring. it was just like yours it wold run fine once it was jumped off but every time i got up in the morning or got off work it needed to be jumped off i took it to the dealer i bought it from it cost $500 to change the gage cluster i also had to replace both batteries the first time i went to the dealer one battery was bad and they thought that was the only problem but i had the same problem the next morning after the battery change the other battery was bad after they changed the gage cluster maybe this wiill help you
  • it is common for the gage cluster to cause simmilar problems i noticed with mine the gages didn't move a fews seconds after it started for a month before it started draining the battery the bad news is it cost $500 dollar for the computerized gage cluster i did a lot of research on line and the gage cluster was a common problem with 2001-2003 bowties
  • i dont know if yours is a diesel but mine is it has been doing the same thing for the last week until today it wouldn't start at all i think it is sucking are around the water seperator valve on the bottom of the fuel filter it got dark today before i could finish working on it but i think i found the problem it cold be water in the fuel or it could be sucking air around a fitting possibl around the filter
  • fuel pump can work but not provide enough presure newer chevrolet need 50# of presure a weak fuel pump is a common problem with boe ties
  • Thanks for the tip.I am going to replace the guage cluster.Just to be thorough,I am going to have the starter and alt rebuilt.It just seems weird that I drove it all morning around town yesterday,and then it did it in the afternoon,thus the "dead at random"
    ??did you go to a dealer for the new cluster,was it OEM or aftermarket?
  • bandera1bandera1 Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Silverado 2500HD with a new battery but intermittently will not start. No click, hum or nothing. It seems like the security interlocks are not all releasing; if this is possible. Sometimes I reset the remote, slam a door, lock/unlock a door or something similar and the thing will start. It may go days starting OK, but then it won't.
    Any ideas?
  • I do not have anything concrete yet.I am removing my remote start,replacing the guage cluster,all relays and rebuilding the starter and alternator.All of these seem to be involved based on postings I have seen.Unfortunatly my local dealers want to throw darts and see if they can find it.After I complete these repairs,I will post regularly with good or bad reports.Good luck
  • jogundejogunde Posts: 3
    22,000 mi parked pickup, restarted engine to move up 3', exited pickup. 5 min later tried to restart, turned key, would not start; dashboard lit up (battery etc.) and only item left lit after a few seconds was 'a picture of an engine'. HELP!!!! no previous problems, recently had mini tuneup 2 months ago.
  • cmacielcmaciel Posts: 1
    i had a few wires that got burned under the dash. they ranto the neutral and parking switch. i got a new switch and replaced it. the truck turns on but dosent start? what else could it be?
  • jogundejogunde Posts: 3
    I had a similar problem (see msg #55). I did alot of online research and then spend a few hours reading the manual. How I resolved my problem was to stand next to my 2003 silverado with remote in hand; hold down 'lock' and 'unlock' simultaneously for 15 seconds. my pickup started immediately. i must originally hit a door lock or something on the remote which prevented by vehicle from starting. all is well now
  • dynomuttdynomutt Posts: 4
    2002 Chevy C1500 4.3L V-6, auto trans, 2wd, reg cab, short bed (149,795 miles). Driver said it stalled on highway suddenly, but never had this problem before. Now it won't start and was towed to my shop. I do mostly high performance muscle car work, but am helping a friend on this one and I'm stumped.

    So far, I've replaced the fuel filter, air filter, and spark plugs; I think they were the original plugs! And I've verified over 55psi cranking fuel pressure at the fuel rail check port behind the throttle body.

    It was delivered 2.5 qts low on oil, and the "Check engine oil level" light was on. I've added the correct amount of oil. There are no signs of external leakage, and the intake has a heavy costing of oil inside the plenum. It’s being sucked in from the PCV valve I’m assuming.

    The truck's SES light has been on for a very long time judging from the electrical tape the owner put on the dash to cover it up!

    My AutoXray CodeScout 2500 can't read the ECM. Says: "Not Connected" even though the plug is securely connected all the way in and the key is on. I've confirmed the correct operation of my scanner on my '05 F-350, so I know that it's not the problem.

    There are only 5 pins in the OBDII connector under the dash of this ’02 truck. That doesn’t seem correct. Any ideas?

  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    GM trucks use J1850 VPW and should have contacts in 2,4,5 and 16 and the only difference with your Ford should be pin 10 which GM shouldn't have.

    With a truck that abused it doesn't suprise me that the OBD-II won't function.
  • dynomuttdynomutt Posts: 4

    You're right about the J1850 VPW connector. Here's the layout:
    5=black w/ white stripe

    Do you have any idea how to fix the OBD-II so I can read the computer?

  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    Other than replacing the whole module I can't think of anyway to fix it. That would only eliminate the connection itself.

    Have you tried testing the individual connectors for power with a voltmeter?

    I understand you're doing this as a favor. That price of this favor is really high and I would consider it a favor if the guy took his truck somewhere else. Electrical problems are a pain cause they sometimes take way too long to troubleshoot. Course this may not help your situation.

    Oh one last thing. Have you checked the fuses. If I'm not mistaken the OBDII is on a fused connection.
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