Honda Accord Problems 2000-2005

kenbb

While I get the timing belt and water pump done on my 97 the Honda shop recommended I also get the Balancer Belt replaced for about $45 more. Is this a common sense thing to do at 90K? What is a balancer belt for? Are there any other belts I should go ahead and replace as preventive maintenance to avoid being stranded? Thanks ahead of time.

jeffrey15

Anyone know how to get ahold of tsb 010603 for 03 accord? Regarding deformed door moldings.

bburton3

If the seals are not completely blown-the leak might be slow enough to just keep topping the PS fluid level off. Now hear this-USE ONLY HONDA PS fluid-when people use other brands of PSF-the seals in the honda PS blow. That mechanic will probably use a "rebuilt" rack from some rebuilder-they are expensive and may not last long with the install being several hundred bucks. So best off to try to live with the current rack if u can. If it uses less than a bottle of Honda PSF a month-live with it.

gregoryc1

If you DO NOT like a "concept", don't use the information. -----Greg

auburn63

Yes you should do the balancer belt at the same time as well as the exterior belts such as the alternator and power steering. The balancer belt drives the balancer shafts and the oil pump. The balancer shafts were designed to smooth the engine operation for less vibrations..

tsb by jeffrey15
 I could not find any such bulletin. I searched for keywords, door, molding, deformed and as a whole sentence but still could not find anything. Also the number you gave doesnt fit the usall Honda format of year bulletin was released,dash, then number of bulletin. Such as 03-042....Do you have any other info on the bulletin?

blane

gregoryc1:

It's not the "concept". It's the annoyance.

autonuts

for your replies. I'll keep an eye on it and just add fluid when needed. I've had (2) mechanics look at it and they both said not to worry about it - just pay attention to the level. Thanks again!

inkie

Everyone is asking us to refrain from talking about Marvel Mystery Oil so I will comply after my answer to your post. I assume by xx oil you mean MMO. This is not a light distillate [hydrotreated oil} MMO has properties like crude oil and no it won't damage or harm valves, piston rings, upper cylinder walls, etc. Does it clean, lubricate, etc? I don't know because I have no idea what other ingredients are mixed in to it.
According to some testimony in trade magazines it supposedly lubricates like lead and thats why a lot of diehards like it.

As far as using higher octane gas, It won't cause any excessive carbon unless the car is not functioning properly. But why use it if the car manufac. recommends regular gas and you get good performance and no pinging with 87 octane?

auburn63

Forgot to mention that for the additional belts there should be no extra charge as they all have to come off in order to get to the water pump and timing belt..

gregoryc1

This is an information site dealing with the operating characteristics of one make of vehicle.(Honda). Some owners are having a problem with the "engine idle" of their vehicles. I believe that the "idle problem",(vibration), is directly connected to the operation of the fuel injectors. (The injectors are not operating in a smooth fashion. They are "hanging-up" and not closing completely. This causes the rough idle and the exhaust odor.). The information that was offered was done so in a professional manner. If this has annoyed YOU, I can't help YOU, because that is a personal problem, that only YOU can solve. Before you condem a "concept", why don't you try the "concept", and see if it has any merit!!! My Hondas do not have the "idle vibration problem". Have a nice day!----Greg

tim_hooligan

I saw the post about the rattle from the Headliner. I too am having the exact same problem and have diagnosed it as the headliner being separated from the metal. I notice the rattle on any bumps.

When the car is cold and I back out in reverse, there is an RPM surge and the car lunges when the brake is pressed. You basically have to wait about 15 seconds and then back out. It scared the bejeezus outta me the first time. I almost lurched into the car behind me.

Sulphur smell...yep...that car smells to high heavens when it gets warm. Drive for a couple minutes and then stop at a light, and the people around you will accuse you of an all-bean diet. I was offended by my own smell. "It wasn't me!"
Different gas brands don't change it...just the "flavor" of the odor. "Yum! Eau du Toilet!"

Pulling right...nope...not mine. 32 PSI all around and runs straight.

I am getting engine buzz/vibration at 1600-2100 RPM. You can really feel it in the driveline (gas pedal, steering wheel, shifter...your posterior...oh my!) It gets more pronounced when accelerating within that RPM range too.

Brakes. A light pulsation action when gently pressing the brakes and creeping in traffic (which you spend most the time doing around here in DC anyways). Thinking something not grabbing or letting go right. Who knows?

I'm just over 5300 ticks on the odometer. How does everyone else compare? Any thoughts?

atlantabenny

Been following this thread and felt some input might be of value.

I promoted this product when working with a major (top 3) oil company and now realize that while such businesses will squeeze the last profit potential from each barrel of crude with MMO-like products, they will also invest considerably in R & D so the products work as advertised.

This fact, and considering that non-functioning and worse - malfunctioning products - create litigation potential, leads me to believe that MMO types do work as claimed.

Here's my take on why there's no mass acceptance of this product: 1) Its stealthy functionality
(like Aunt Martha's anti-aging cream, it makes her look good only because it's been applied daily for years), 2) Before a non-treated engine becomes problematic, the car is sold, and 3) Being a fringe product, it's not promoted as strongly by the oil companies (and specialty companies like STP pitch their MMO-like products to a small audience).

That said, I'd recommend using MMO and top cylinder products if one has a maintenance regimen whose goal is to keep the engine and the rest of the vehicle in excellent condition for a long time. In short, for keeper-cars or if one just has high maintenance standards.

steve_on

I have been putting MMO on my Salads in place of olive oil for years....yummie.

LOL

jeffrey15

tsb # came from the nhtsa web site. Just wondering if this has anything to do with the creak/rattle that I hear coming from my driver side window.

Make: HONDA
Model: ACCORD
Year: 2003
Service Bulletin Number: 010603
Summary Description:
INSPECT DIGITAL PHOTOS OF VEHICLES WITH WINDOW RUN CHANNELS BECOMING DEFORMED. *TT

auburn63

they may have some case numbers from contacts they have recieved but there is no bulletin or service news as of yet from Honda on this. There is one on rattle or creak from the A pillar (outside mohawk strip) that concerns a mis-installed clip on that molding. Maybe this is your rattle..Have a Honda dealer check it out for you..Good luck

jeffrey15

auburn63 what is mohawk strip?

gregoryc1

You must have a "cast iron stomach"!----But a least you are using the product. How is everything working? Is your "idle" smooth? Have you eliminated your vibration? Are your injectors working efficiently? Remember, do not use too much. It is a VERY powerful product. ---Have a great day. ---Greg

accord7

I'm not happy at all. My 1995 Accord had the SRS light come on today, and stayed on. The local Honda dealership said it would be around $700 to replace the sensor, over $1,000 for an airbag. Honda customer service said these things happen, and with 150,000 miles they aren't going to help with this. I was going to sell my car this fall, now I will have to sell it for a much lower price or pay to get it fixed. Anybody have any recommendations?

according2me

the light to see if it was a glitch. If it's a real problem it will relight the SRS lamp. Others have had this light come on after installing aftermarket guages or installing stereos. There's a procedure to reset the lamp, but I'm not sure what it is for a 5th Gen model. The procedure I have is for a 6th Gen.

imidazol97

"This fact, and considering that non-functioning and worse - malfunctioning products - create litigation potential, leads me to believe that MMO types do work as claimed."

Nonfunctioning products wouldn't lead to claims. No one would know they didn't do anything. As long as the hype is good, people will believe they're getting a benefit. Look at how many people take vitamin pills, or maybe personal care products like shampoos and such, are good examples.

Your post does indicate that the reason for the existence of such items is that it's a good method for profit from what would have been waste from the cracking/distillation process. Better to sell it then pitch it away.

nfjimc

2003 EX I4, one month old, 3300 miles and nary a complaint. I have been watching this board and watching my car very closely for some of the symptoms that have been mentioned. No vibrations, no creaks, no rattles. Have been averaging around 27 city and 32/33 highway. Overall I've been very impressed with the feel and performance, and enjoy driving this car.

stickershox

I own an 03 Accord EX-L I4 Auto and have been getting only 21 mpg after 500 miles. I do about 80% city/20% highway driving. Why am I getting poor fuel economy? I use regular gas with 87 octane level.

Anyone else getting poor mpg???

ctinny

Recently I used the cigarette lighter in my 1990 Honda Accord and it caused my dashboard lights, rear lights and rear defroster to stop working. I checked the fuses and found one that was burned out. This was for the interior light, which when replaced it blew again. Any suggestions on how to fix the problem. I know this happened to other Accord owners but no one was able to tell me the fix.

03lxv6

Anybody has the experience of the car key which is I'd say between very warm and hot after the car is turned of. This is especially notable after stop-and-go traffic.

I know Honda has a recall for ignition switch for almost all Honda products from 1997-2000.

Last time when my Acura 92 vigor stalls, it also had its ignition switch replaced. Mechanic told me Honda had a bad name in this part.

Thanks for the help.

amazon

I have a leaking radiator in my '93 Accord LX. THere's a foam gasket on the top of the radiator that's leaking. Can this one be replaced, or do I have to get a new radiator? If so, is it something a shade tree mechanic can do?

bburton3

can sometimes be fixed fairly easily but some of the new radiators are plastic and really hard to patch. A new aftermarket all metal radiator made in Thailand can be had for around $150-figure another hundred or so to install-that is about as cheap as you can replace a radiator. Find some grungy old radiator place-used to always pass one on Lake Street in Minneapolis-their sign said under their name "A good place to take a leak". They had to be good old boys with a sign like that.

brandon19

Auburn, I just purchased a new 03 Accord EX-v6. I only have 150 miles on the car; I will back my car out of the driveway and put the car in Drive. I will accelerate slowly, BUT when it shifts between 1st and 2nd gear there is a slight clunk sound right before 2nd gear is engaged.

Is this the dreaded clunking noise that has occurred to soo many of the older V6 automatic transmissions?

geod

I am having the same problem as the previous message. I have had my EX-V6 for couple of months now and i have noticed that the transmition makes and noise and i feel the gas paddle rattle when i hit 10 miles per hour. This only happens the first time it hit 10mph and only after the car has cooled down for couple of hours. Any one know how to solve this?

amazon

Thanks for your advice. AutoZone sells a radiator for $109 with lifetime warranty. I do have a Haynes manual, so I think that's th route I'll go, unless I can just fix or replace that foam gasket.

auburn63

brandon19
 I have not seen any of the 03s with problems and I have been told that there should be none. You could be hearing the ABS system check if it is only first thing cold motor/trans, If you can duplicate it on a regular basis then I would have a Honda Tech have a listen..Good luck

jeffrey15
 I am sorry that is what most of the techs call the molding that is on each side of the front windshield and runs up and over the roof to the back glass.

SRS light
 I would do as someone has said and that is clear the light and see if the light comes back on. It could be just a glitch..Good luck

brandon19

Auburn, the ABS system check occur on when the car is in DRIVE? I do not feel the abs system check when the car is first started.

This symptom only occurs when the car has been sitting for a long time (3 hours or more).

gee35coupe

Replacing the radiator in the 93's is kinda tricky if you use oem hoses. It's hard to get everything all straight in there. But I did it.

amazon

How would you describe yourself as a mechanic. Beginner, shadetree, professional?

webexplorer

I've the problem of poor mpg with my 03ExV6 too. I do mostly city driving and averaging between 16 to 18 mpg on 87 octane gas. I have got 1,700 miles on it now. I heard the mpg will improve over time, but not sure till when. Is 18mpg sounds right with the current mileage? Thanks.

98jettavr6

I used the word problem here loosely.
I own a '98 Accord EX with the factory-installed fogs. For some reason the dash buttons for the fog lights and the cruise control do not illuminate when they are pressed. The lights serve as a convenient reminder that these things are on. Anyone know how I can replace these bulbs, or if they work off of a fuse?

Thanks.

amazon

I've gotten the old radiator out. Getting ready to go to AutoZone for a new one. The worst part so far was getting the transmission fluid cooling hoses off.

snowful

I have an EX v6 with about 1100 miles on it and my MPG on average has been around 25. I do about half city and half highway and use 87 octane. It doesn't seem like your mileage sounds right to me.

gee35coupe

I've done a few things here and there. Even did the shocks in my Tercel long time ago. I wouldn't rebuild an engine but I'll tackle a water pump.

communipaw

Just got an Accord LX-6 sedan on which the dealer installed a Honda OEM cassette player. Otherwise, everything is stock.
 
Even on the strongest local FM stations [Washington DC] there's hissing and popping. Worst when passing rows of poles or when other cars pass me. [Surprisingly, there isn't especially bad static on the AM band where I would have expected it.]

Had a short visit with the dealer who also heard the static on all the FM stations; he found it also in one other Accord 6 and one Accord 4. No definitive answer yet but at least the static problem is acknowledged as "real".

Is this a unique FM problem on the Accord 6 or is anyone else experiencing it?

amazon

The new radiator's in, and no leaks. Funny little thing- i did spill out maybe a pint of ATF, but when I checked the level, there was still plenty there.... Hmmmmm.

When I was running the car outside, I hears that dreaded distributor grinding noise- again. It was 100,000 miles since it was replaced, and with the Honda, that part seems to be the weak link.

gee35coupe, that's probably the same level I'm at too.

gee35coupe

when you finish something like that?

auburn63

Sounds as if it is possible that it could be the ABS units self check. This check usally happens on a cold motor once the car moves forward and would not happen again until hours later or the next day even sometimes..

kenbb

While getting the timing belt done on my 97 Accord I am also getting the water pump replaced as recommended. I have been told that the only pumps available for models made prior to the 2000 model are all remanufacture d. Is this true? Is it a good idea to use these if the original is working fine? Any thoughts or knowledge on this matter is greatly appreciated.

webexplorer

Thanks snowful.
Anyone out there had poor mpg problem and had it fixed somehow? Are dealers going to entertain problem like this at all?

cards_200

'99 Accord. It doesn't seem to be the horn switch. If anything it seems to be electrical load related. But really hard to get to fail when trying to fail. When traveling on highway almost always fine. Of course the times it fails seems to be when I need to hit brakes & sound horn. I noticed this problem shortly after I had service for the recall on ('99) ignition switch. Since its a dual horn I assume not the horn. Any pointers on what I may try? Thanks.

lgoldin

Hi all.
I have Accord V6 2003 with a CD changer. Sometimes the car doesn't start from a first key turn. I can hold the key on start for 5-10 seconds and the car would not start. The starter works just fine. It sounds like there is no gas. Then I turn the key to OFF position and START again and the car starts OK.
Another problem is that CD changer periodically refuses to play CDs. It doesn't take any of CD claiming that they are bad. An hour later it gets to a better mood and starts working again.
Did anyone experienced such problems? If so, what was a solution?
Thanks in advance.

bburton3

If you spilled out a pint of atf-replace it-see manual on checking level-have to check right after shutting down engine on level ground. Use only honda atf by the way and suggest u change that every 30K-you are really only changing about 1/2 of what is in the tranny but atf is cheap compared to a tranny-I got a tranny code at 70K-fluid was burnt-only do highway driving-guess 4 hours at 80+ could count as severe.

Good to get that job done-a radiator leak could turn very expensive if you run out of coolant-warped heads are tough to repair.

auburn63

We are still installing and ordering new water pumps from Honda so you should be able to also. I can check with my parts department on tuesday to see if they are changing this or not..Where are you from??

snuke59

I have a 2000 Honda Accord EX/V6 with an odometer reading of 24,350 miles. This past week I had to have a new alternator installed. Fortunately, it was covered under the Honda warranty and replaced at a Honda dealership. However, isn't this unusual for the amount of miles on the car? Also, should the battery have been replaced, as well? The repair advisor indicated that the battery was checked and it showed it still had a strong charge. Therefore, replacing the battery was not necessary. Auburn, what are your thoughts?

auburn63

It isnt normal of course for the alternator to go bad however it can happen. I have replaced about 2 in the 98-01 accords both for noise not for output failure. As for the battery if it passed a load test(as it seems it did) then it is good and doesnt need to be replaced. If you would feel better replacing it you can always do so, but it would not be necesary. The batteries are pro-rated and there would be little or no warranty left on it by now..Glad they covered the alternator for you they can get costly..