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Jeep Grand Cherokee Electrical Problems

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  • Left lights on and to start the wehicle I also changed my battery the same way as you did, now my automatic door lock at 15mph does not work - (that's the only thing I noticed, I will check if there is any more.
    Have you managed to solve your problem? if so how?
    thanks.
  • Hi
    YES I MANAGED TO SOLVE MY PROBLEM. THE AUTO ELECTRICIAN JUST RESET THE POWER TO THE SWITCH FOR THE ELECTRIC WINDOWS. THIS HAS THEN RESET THE COMPUTER AND IT IS ALL WORKING NOW.

    CHECK ALL YOUR WIRES TO MAKE SURE YOU DONT HAVE A LOOSES CONNECTION.

    HOPE IT GETS BETTER

    THANKS
  • I have a 2006 Jeep Grand Cherokee that I bought from a dealer. It has about 45000 miles on it. Runs great. For about the past 4 months, the Brake Trouble light has been blinking every once in a while. This is a brake trouble light and the emergency brake light combined into one. It only does it when I use my brakes or when I hit a bump on the road. I tried to get a DTC code from the computer and nothing shows up in the freeze frame memory. I took it to the dealer and they could not find an issue with the vehicle considering the light wouldn't come on when I took it in(of course). I was wondering if anyone knew where the brake sensors for the brake system are located and what they do and if anyone has any pointers on pinpointing the problem.
  • I recently purchased a 2006 JCG. After a day, the speedometer and tachometer started flickering simultaneously. The ABS, check engine and airbag lights also flicker (and ding) intermittently. The car is still under warranty and has spent 7 out of the 10 days I have owned it at the Jeep dealer. They admit there is a problem (like I needed a diagnostic machine to tell me that!), but they say they have no idea what it is and how to fix it.

    Has anyone had any success with the dealer and this problem?
  • I have a 2002 Grand Cherokee. As I'm driving, I seem to get an sudden electrical short, where the radio shuts off, I hear the door locks click and the dash board display turns off, then within seconds it call comes back on. The car itself doesn't shut off and I don't seem to loose the headlights. It is sporadic. A mechanic looked at it, said that the alternator seemed to be fine, and he cleaned and tightened the battery terminals which needed it, but he said he couldn't find anything else.

    His thought was that there might be a short in a wire, which wasn't something he could find. Anyone have any other possible suggestions? Or does that sound the most logical and is it a dealer fix?
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    sounds as if you have a short in the rubber tube that goes into your drivers door (by the hinges )
  • OK, HERES THE STORY, JUST TRADED FOR IT,,,DROVE FOR TWO DAYS, SHUT OFF AN PARKED,CAME OUT 3 HOURS LATER& CRANKS OVER GOOD FUEL PRES. NO VOLATAGE TO COIL,WHILE MESSING AROUND PUT IN NEW PLUGS, CAP ROTOR,,,,,AND ONLY CODES THAT KEY ON,OFF GIVES IS 12 AND 55,,,,,,,,,,ABOUT READY TO GET A ECU,,,,,,ALSO,OHMED CRANCHSHAFT POST SENSOR,,,,,,,,,,ANYONE GOT A IDEA
  • i have a 2000 JGC and had the same problems i ended having the skim module replaced, not to cheap about 600.00. No more problems
  • "i have a 97 cherokee with a 4.0 that's not getting any spark. i have replaced the coil and checked to see its getting power (my test light will light up on GREEN / ORANGE and when i flip the tester to + i have ground on GRAY / WHITE just not while cranking) i visually inspected the cap and rotor and checked injector pulse. all the gauges work on the dash and the info cluster. all the fuses are good under the hood and in the vehicle. the fuel pump kicks on fine. any idea's ?? i was told that if the crank sensor is bad then the 3 wires should test 1 as a ground 2 should have 8 volts and 3 shold have between 0.3 volts and 5.0 volts but when i tested it with my volt meter i was getting between 5v and 0.3 v on one wire and between 3 and 4 volts on the other so i replaced the crank sensor because it should have 8 volts on that wire but it didn't solve my problem. so i have also pulled the codes ( key on key off key on key off key on and count the blinks of your check engine light between pauses, if you have a digital odemiter it will tell you the codes) and they are reading 12_54_55. 54 being the cam sensor which is inside the distributor on this model and year jeep aka sync signal generator and its called the IGNITION PICK UP COIL at your local parts store, and swapped it out then took sandpaper and some contact cleaner and went thru every relay under the hood. then i disconnected the neg. batt terminal and removed the coolant reservoir and pulled the 3 plugs from the pcm checked the terminals and tested the gray / white wire (-) from the pcm to the coil itself to make sure it wasn't damaged AND now i start and run beautifuly. WHAT A PAIN IN THE BUTT!! here is another idea below that may also help you and the link to a jeep site that explains your vehicle sensors and how they work. good luck

    http://www.jpmagazine.com/techarticles/engine/154_0608_1987_jeep_wrangler_xj/ind- ex.html

    Short story long: I have a 96 Grand Cherokee 4.0L, 125,000 miles. Several weeks ago, I started to have stalling issues. Hot or cold, dry or wet, first drive of the day or last, it didn’t matter. The engine would cut out. It felt like it lost all electricals.
    At the time it was showing an ASD relay code. Swapped the ASD and A/C relays. Same problem. I didn’t have time to look at it, so I had the dealer go through it. After 2 days and $200, they called and said it was the ASD relay, and that they put in a new one, and it’s all good. Um, ok, maybe I missed something. I’m a trusting soul, but let’s see if this fixes it. The next day the problem was back. I went back to the dealer and they basically said, “We don’t know what it could be, good luck with that”. Now my wife knows why I don’t go to the dealer. By the way, the old relay tested good.
    My turn. Being the methodical aircraft mechanic that I am, I grabbed a multi-meter, contact cleaner, and wiring diagrams. I cleaned connectors, ohmed out wires and sensors, checked for power and grounds. Everything checked good. By now, it’s showing ASD, crank sensor, and primary ignition codes. Then, with my wife trying to start it, I wiggled the connectors on the PCM. Every time I wiggled the gray C3 connector just right it would run. When I let go, it would die. So I took the connectors apart and tightened up the crimps (I don’t recommend doing this without the proper extractors and crimper). Threw it back together and BAM! Same problem. Well, time to bite the bullet and check for bad solder joints on the PCM board. I took the cover off of the PCM and realized that looking through the potting compound is like looking through Guinness Stout. But, I put it back in and hooked it up. It started stronger than ever, and didn’t even think about stalling. Yes! I figured that I finally got the connectors sorted out, so I left it over night to cool down. Got up the next morning and it started right up and wouldn’t stall even when wiggling the connectors. So I put the cover back on, put the PCM back in, hooked up the connectors, and BAM! It wouldn’t start! That was the point when my wife asked, “How’s it going?” And I, being the methodical aircraft mechanic that I am, said, “what the ----?” That’s when my wife turned around and went back into the house. While smoking a pack of cigarettes, I thought, “Gee, it runs with the cover off, but not with it on.” DUH, wonder what it could be? So I backed out the two screws that hold the cover on and BAM! It started right up. Then, while it was running, I tightened the outboard screw and sure enough, it died. Yes! Aircraft mechanics love it when they can make things stop working. I installed new screws (1/4” long, factory screws are 1/2” long Torx head), and she’s been running great ever since.
    Now, will this fix a bad crank sensor or idle air motor? No. But it is an easy trick to try before going to the dealer and having them throw expensive parts at your Jeep and seeing if any of them stick. Just back out the cover screws about 1/8”-1/4” (don’t worry, nothing will fall apart inside). If it fixes it, great! Spread the word. If not, use logical trouble-shooting steps. Learn the systems – what will and what won’t cause the problem. Good luck.
    As a side note, if you want to see a service manager’s eyes pop out of his head, tell him that you want your money back because your not going to pay them to trouble-shoot a design defect. It’s a glorious sight.
  • SOUNDS LIKE A DEAL TO ME,I JUST HAD TO WALK AWAY FOR A DAY OR TO, OR BURN IT,,,,,,,,BUT WAS HEADING TO TAKE OUT WASHER TANK AND START CHECKING AT THE PCM ,BEEN WORKING ON CARS ,AND CERTIFED HARLEY MECH. WHEN THEY STILL TRAINED YA AT THE FACTORY IN MILWAUKEE...FOUND THAT THERE ARE THINGS THAT JUST HAVE TO WALK AWAY, BLOW IT OFF, AND THEN WALK IN BINGO YA FIND IT,,,,THANKKS FOR YOUR HELP,,,JIMBO
  • IM ASE CERTIFIED MY SELF AND A MASTER ALIGNMENT TECH AND WORK FOR GOODYEAR SO I NOW WHAT YOU MEAN. AND I WANTED TO MUSH THIS THING W MY CHEVY BUT WELL YA KNOW GLAD I DIDNT KNOW LET ME KNOW IF I CAN HELP
  • HEY SURE WILL, MAY TRY TOMORROW,ITS 34 AND SLEETING, GARAGE NOT WARMED UP,,,LIKE THE OLD SAYING WHY TODAY, MIGHT BE DEAD TOMORROW,,,THEN SOMEONE ELSE CAN DEAL WITH IT..LOL WILL LET YA KNOW, AND KEEP PLA4KPS......JIMBO
  • loosenutloosenut Posts: 165
    did you manually unlock the door from the drivers side?..this is how you reset the factory alarm system..
    -also,my -97,witch i just rescued from a body shop where it sat for two years,had the auto lights,and the instrument lights were controlled by the slide switch next to the headlight switch..i took wd-40,with the straw attached,and gave the slide switch a two secound spray,then worked the switch several times,as this cleaned the contacts inside...it seems to have addressed the problem!!..worth a try!.. :)
  • I have a 98 cherokee. This problem has been ongoing for maybe 2 years. When driving over 50 mph it bucks usually while going uphill and while letting up on acceleration. I have had it to numerous mechanics including the jeep dealer who had a chrysler mechanic look at it. no one can figure it out-all they know is that its electrical. ive had the computer replaced, as well as numerous sensors-including the cam and crank sensors. the engine light used to come on frequently-but now stays on all the time. obd code reads cam sensor, but not the problem. it runs fine otherwise-any suggestions?
  • hey ,pulled washer tank, pulled harness from ecm cleaned connectors, found middle wire on map elect. plug bare about 3" in nasty oily elect. tape, fixed that, and bingo, started,,BUT why LOL don't ya hate it when you really don't know for SURE what the deal was,,,,,,,thanks for your input and everyone eles,,,,,,,,,,jimbo :shades:
  • no problem glad your up and runnin good luck
  • getting same code and will not start unlees i turn key on pull fuel relay and start it from the starter relay put fuel relay in and it dies wont start from ign
  • For several weeks my battery guage would spike to 19 and then go back down on its own or if I turned off the car and then turned it back on.....then last night my ABS light and check engine light came on. I was not real concerned as it has happened in the past and been nothing. I turned of the car and then went back out two hours later...tried to start it and nothing...would not turn over or even register it had a battery....no lights door ding or anything.....helpppppppp do not have a lot money to put in it so ANY adivice would be greatly appreciated!
  • I was wondering if anyone has had a problem with their rear wiper coming on for no reason. My rear wiper will turn on with the wiper switch in the off position. Even when I shut off the vehicle the rear wiper will continue to run for about 30 seconds or so. I've already had numerous electrical with this vehicle.
  • Update

    2000 Jeep grand cherokee

    Electrical problem resolved

    1st issue Gauges would work intermittently.
    Key Tumbler is bad. Had it repaired at dealer fixed all the problem listed above. 94.00

    2nd Issue
    AC would not work
    Blower resistor Replaced. 160.00

    Wish everyone the best of luck.
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