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here's the link to Hella's with p/n's:
http://www.hellana.com/maineng/lev1b/lev2bb/lev3bbc/bulbs.htm
Are you totally up to speed now? If you're not, I think Dave would be more than happy to help you (wink-wink).
Best Regards,
Shipo
no opinion on these... i'm having difficulty understanding the concept of "longer range, but not as bright"? couldn't find any description of that on their website...
-Chris
brave: Yes, I'm sure Dave would be happy to help me (wink, wink), but something tells me it'll cost me dearly.
genie1: brave is right about the ratings. It's about top speed, not weather, but due to the nature of tires, Z or Y rated all season are rare. Tirerack has very good page which goes into detail.
brave1heart: you're just too manly for my tastes. Even your user name is so masculine. I hope we can still be friends.
shipo: I think I can do Tom Arnold. Does that count?
Best Regards,
Shipo
Now what makes you say such a thing? I've been good, most of the time.
Imagine that you are on a bicycle that has gears, the higher the gear, the harder it is to pedal, however, the further you go.
Best Regards,
Shipo
imo, the bulbs silver is looking at won't be any better or worse than standard replacements... hid's, otoh, really DO work better... but again, it comes with a price...
-Chris
Having said that, I also don't think the manufacturer's claim has enough merit to be noticeable under normal driving conditions.
I did not understand the "good old 80/20" rule...I always thought that a car with a 10% power-to-weight ratio advantage would be 10% faster, assuming the gearing and all other factors are identical. I don't see how adding 80% power would result in only 20% more acceleration, assuming the power-to-weight ratio goes up by 80% as well. Is this because of other factors like aerodynamics, drag, etc.?
I do come with a dowry of gold, a refrigerator, car (see, I'm on topic), house down payment and a full set of pots and pans.
Any takers?
i agree... the claim is kinda along the claims for hp increases with mods...
-Chris
Who knows, you may take one look at the car and run away screaming
Let me sweeten the pot...
My dad'll throw in three goats and a camel.
Is that the two-humped camels or the single hump? 'Cuz I'm hearing the two-humped camels are selling pretty well this year.
http://www.arab.net/camels/
BTW: Anyone ever watched a camel race?
genie1: is the camel a champion racer?
"Anyone ever watched a camel race?"
In person or on TV?
The really sad thing is that in the Middle East they use very young SE Asian children as jockeys.
In person or on TV?
Well, either.
Your friend must have been blonde.
Moving around as much as I do, one gets to know a bizarre amalgamation of facts and minutiae.
I've moved around a lot, but just in the same general area.
Lucky for me I enjoy seeing new places and trying out new food. I loved it but I am glad to finally have a place to call home.
I'd love to travel more, but that annoying thing called work. New food is always fun. Goal is to try out the 4 lbs. steak they serve in TX. Don't quite have a home yet.
The nice thing about Toronto is that one is always driving distance from almost any kind of ethnic food one desires: sushi, pho, curry, falafel, dim sum or moule frites. You name it, I'm sure you can get it here.
Not to jinx myself or anything, but most of my travelling will be vacations from now on.
The Caribbean in February sounds about right.
Why is it that people believe they don't need winter tires when they have AWD? Sure, AWD will get you going better than 2WD, but what happens if you have to stop or maneuver in an emergency? The person with AWD will probably be driving faster because of the confidence gained from having traction while accelerating. I believe you're safer with 2WD and winter tires than with AWD and all season tires. Of course, AWD and winter tires would be best.
Why spend $1700 to go faster in the snow, but not spend $500 to stop and maneuver better?
-Murray
You also have a limited amount of grip from you tires. You as a result just can't keep adding low end torque, or for that matter increase torque beyond a certain level at any point in the powerband. You need to extend the powerband so you use the maximum wheel torque the tires can handle for a longer time.
The result is rather than going from 200HP to 210HP at 5250RPM you may need to 231HP at 5775RPM. You will have the same increase in torque but at a higher rpm, meaning more horsepower.
The drive train usually becomes heavier too as you increase power, either as a result of displacement or in terms of heavy dutier trans and axle to handle it. The increase in weight will result in you needing even more power, but may actually let you wheels handle more torque depending on center of gravity and weight transfer.
You also might be generating horsepower through tuning that actually reduces the torque in the low end, i.e. based on your cam profiles if you don't have true "stepless" variable valve timing and lift. You will now need even more highend power to compensate, need to pull even longer because you aren't pulling as hard early on.
I am assuming your gearing is staying the same, which makes sense once your ratio's are already yielding the maximum wheel torque the tires can handle. The exception is the last example where you may be able to use a higher gear, because of the reduction in low-end torque.
The bottom line is it is game of diminishing returns, to go a certain amount faster requires more and more work, and that work becomes harder and harder to do.
Now, while I stated that all-seasons would be best for my winter driving needs, I have the summer tires on my 325i SP and am planning on keeping those for the winter and see how it goes.
As far as tracking in the Spring, I am not planning on getting a dedicated set of tires. For me, it would be too much hassle and expense to do that. I get the competitive racing adrenaline from kart racing... to me, tracking will be mostly an opportunity to improve my driving skills and race against my own best time. Gaining a few seconds and beating other cars does not seem to justify getting a dedicated set of tires. At least that's my current line of thinking. I am very competitive by nature, though, and once I get past the initial thrills of tracking, I may well decide that I need to try and kick everyone else's beep and get slicks, I don't know. Buy what you need when you are really sure you'll need it, I guess.
1) Armrest (do I need this for a manual shift or leave it out. I did not get the premium package but might install one myself)
2) Floor Mats. Rubber or Carpet. BMW Brand or other.
3) Is there a cheaper way to install a cell phone in this car vs the expensive dealer phone?
4) How long did it take for a special order 3 series to arrive?
Thanks in advance for your time. I cannot wait to drive my 325xi when it arrives in December. Sean in Boston.
My expectations and the reason I bought AWD is to be able to go . I want to go in the wet-snow grease and ice we get North of Boston, not to go fast nor to go in deep snow. I'm tired of not being able to get up the hill just outside our house, of not getting out of the parking lot at work, of not being able to steer when I pull through snow (FWD), of not being able to start on a hill after someone, not used to driving in snow, stops in front of me. I don't expect to stop quicker, I don't expect to turn better, I just want to be able to go.
I also think people are missing another advantage of AWD on dry pavement. With 36% of the torque applied to the front wheels and 64% applied to the back, the car has a balance of neutral steering under power that I have not been able to upset. Sure, I'm not going to win any drag races with the added weight but let me get to the first high-speed turn and we'll see who gets out faster.
I am really looking forward to the first snow so I can comment on BMW's AWD with some authority. The comment someone made about getting front tires to grip after an initial slide by applying power makes my mouth water. Maybe I'll be able to get the tail to swing out and then power into the turn. I can't wait to re-learn how to go in snow!
There are a few days a year I would like to have AWD, but I would certainly want a set of good tires to stop all that going :-)
-Murray
When I posted earlier today about the 80/20 rule, I had no basis of fact for posting it, it was more of a gut guess as to how things would work. So when I read your post, I figured that I better research this issue and then post my findings, even if that meant that I had to eat a little crow. ;-) With the research complete, I admit having some fun doing it and hope you will enjoy the results.
For the purpose of this discussion, I decided to compare extreme examples of cars in the Standing Quarter Mile, a 2001 BMW 330i and a custom dragster named “BME Top Fuel Dragster”, built in 1998 and raced in 1999. And the results are:
2001 BMW 330i
3.0 Liter 6 Cylinder (Normally Aspirated)
HP: 225 @ 5900 rpms
Wgt: 3,285 lbs.
Power to weight: 14.6 lbs per HP
Quarter Mile: 14.8 seconds (C&D Dec-2000)
1999 BME Top Fuel Dragster
8.5 Liter 8 Cylinder Hemi (Supercharged)
HP: 6000 @ 8200 rpms
Wgt: 2,150 lbs.
Power to weight: 0.3583 lbs per HP
Quarter Mile: 4.68 seconds (NHRA Winter Finals Feb-1999)
The BME Top Fuel Dragster has 4075% more power per pound than the BMW 330i, however, it is only 316% faster in the Standing Quarter Mile. So, could it be that the 80/20 rule is actually too optimistic when it comes to improving acceleration times?
Best Regards,
Shipo
The dealer will often throw in floor mats.
The dealer told me that my special order 325X (I ordered it on Wed.) will come in by the end of December to the middle of Jan.
-Chris
drag IS proportional. it just happens to be a squared function, rather than one to one.
-Chris
I want this 0.3583 lbs per HP for my next car!!!
Chris, I will make sure that it has snow tires ;o)