Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Options
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
sorry for all those repairs. Definitely a fresh citrus scent would be a first impression. However, the Passat's reliability has been improving over the years, after some initially poor results, according to Consumers Reports, which is the only reason I purchased my 2005.
The 1999 is listed as "poor" in reliability (basically a 1 out of 5, 5 being the best) in Electrical, a 'fair" in:
- engine
- fuel system
- brakes
- power system
- body integrity
-body hardware
a "good" in Cooling, ignition and suspension, a "very good" in Transmission, A/C, Paint/Trim/Rust,
And one excellent - Exhaust system. Generally, other than the crack in the exhaust manifold, these ratngs seem fairly consistent with your troubles.
In comparison (knock on lots of wood!) the 2004's reliability was listed as "Excellent" in every category except electrical, which got a"very good." I am just hoping that the 2005 fares as well as the 2004.
-david
1) Is your car consuming too much? Well, the general concensus is that an engine that consumes more than 1 qt per 1,000 miles has a high consumption rate and should be submitted to the dealer for an oil consumption test.
2) Technically, no. One quart in 3,000 miles is not considered excessive by the auto industry. Personally, it would bother me and I'd use the thickest oil that the manual allowed (I'd guess 5w-40, in your case). That grade would probably help slow down the consumption until the engine settles down.
3) The hash marks represent about one quart (possibly one liter). Your owner's manual will tell you.
thanks for that info. I am suprised, however, that the break-in mileage you mentioned - 15,000 miles or so -- is so high, given it's more than a typical YEAR of driving. :surprise:
As for the other member who also commented - thank you as well. Regarding using a thicker oil - I am using Mobl 1 and was told (and some web searches, for what that's worth, confirmed this as well) that once you use synthetic you cannot go back. Can I get thicker grades in Mobl 1 or is there just one kind?
CR is a good guide, but also has limitations:
1. Only reader responses are collected, which raises the question of bias. Like with this forum or any other internet forum, are people who are having trouble more likely to respond? If so, are the tabulated results valid and reliable? It is indeed information, but not necissarily accurate.
2. If you watch the annual ratings in CR, you will see that they decline with time. The 1999 ratings are for a 6 year old car and one would expect more problems to be reported by the owners. The cars are older and generally have more troubles to report, and are more expensive as they are no longer in warranty. The 2004 ratings are for cars that are only 2 years old, and one would hope they are working reasonably well. While it is a guide to 2004 comparisons (are 2004 VWs more prone to problems than 2004 Hondas or Nissans, etc), it is not a measure of "improved reliability" for the brand when you compare across years. Those same 2004 ratings will in fact decline as the car ages. In six years, those ratings may match the 1999 data you are considering.
As for the other member who also commented - thank you as well. Regarding using a thicker oil - I am using Mobl 1 and was told (and some web searches, for what that's worth, confirmed this as well) that once you use synthetic you cannot go back. Can I get thicker grades in Mobl 1 or is there just one kind?
Mobil 1 comes in various viscosities. But there is only one that has VW Oil Spec 502.00 approval - 0w-40. Some use the Truck & SUV in 5w-40, but I would stick with approved oil since you are under warranty yet.
Another synthetic that hit 5w-40 and 502.00 approval is Valvoline Synpower.
I'd dispute the comment about the inability of owners to return to non-synthetic oil after using it. Valvoline's websites say you can go back (Here's a quote from their FAQ: Once I switch to synthetics, can I ever switch back to conventional or synthetic blend oils? Yes.). But it's really a moot point...the only oils that have 502.00 approval are synthetic.
I guess the real question is: what grade of Mobil 1 did you use? 5w-30, 0w-40, or what? If 5w-30, you might find that it's really too light of an oil for a VW engine.
BTW, aside from this minor oil leak (which was more annoying than damaging), I've had really reliable service from my 1999 GLX V6 sedan. Consumer reports has some bad ratings on the 1999, but I really think you can avoid problems if you take care to do the preventative maintenance before a problem develops (timing belt/water pump change, new spark plugs, O2 sensors, etc). Maybe I've just been sort of lucky so far. Knock on wood!
also, what's the difference between adjusting the ENGINE chip and the "Tip Chip"? Both will increase HP and torque, but as I understand, this will make the lag in the auto. more noticeable?
Thanks.
A chip for the engine will increase hp and torque. A tip chip addresses the lag that is sometimes noticeable when the transmission is shifting. I don't think the tip chip has any impact on hp or torque, although it may change the rpms when shifting would occur.
Really, I'm surprised that a VW dealer is even discussing this with you. The chips are not VW issue, but from aftermarket companies. Some dealers will attempt to void warranties on chipped cars....
I know that the 1.8T can be massaged to much higher performance levels with a new chip, since the turbocharger's boost is remapped. I can't imagine that there's much more performance room on the V6...but that's just my thoughts....
One other question to consider - that dealer will stand behind the chip and the VW warranty, but what about any other dealer? Maybe I'm just paranoid....
Wait - I just noticed your thread mentions the 2.0 v6...we are talking about the 2.8 v6, right??
Yeah i'm curious about other dealers, since i'd be moving to Chicago after buying it (i'm in california). I would try to find a dealer in Chicago once moving before i change the chip and check about the waranty.
Not sure what manufacturer he was talking about.
Anything to make a sale, my man, anything to make a sale...
The engine management will retard the engine timing to allow the use of regular fuel. It won't perform to it's fullest capacity, in either power or fuel efficiency, that's all. In fact, there's some speculation that it might actually be more costly to run regular than premium, under the right price structure and loss in efficiency. The V6 is not that economical, to begin with, in an urban driving setting.
If you are considering running it on regular, I'd forego the chip.
website is http://www.pes-tuning.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=GIAC97PAS28&Categ- ory_Code=VWPASSCHIPS
Of course, the warranty is another matter.
Also chipping a V6 will bring very little HP/torque gains - IMHO suggests you spend mod-$ elsewhere especially if you are worried about warranty. Sorry to burst your bubble ...
tachtek
It's possible to spend that, but then, every car and every driver are different. One MIL light on after warranty could eat up 500 bucks quickly. It's a gamble, and that's what warrantys always are, a gamble.
VW is declining to cover it because of the mileage (45,000).
I have a police report verifing my opinion that it blew out from the inside.
Any similar stories or comments?
On way to sign off
Some 2,500 off invoice
Sounds good to me Brsnd new :P
I am having a similar problem and also feel that it is something to do with the breather system. Can you provide more details as to what the dealer found was it simply the breather hose or more?
Really appreciate
Thanks
Sarbhpreet
Invoice 23,850
$500 off loyalty rebate
$2500 off Rebate
20,850 finance 5.39 4 years :confuse:
http://www.modulemaster.com/
or
http://autoecu.com/Products/TechnicalInfoDetails.asp?catID=15
The warranty on my 2000 passat wagon with V6 engine was only 2 years and expired 3 years ago. (that's why I am a bit curious how you manage to have warranty service after 6 years or so). The car only has 25,000 miles on it, and it already leaks oil from both cam seals. The cam seal oil leakage appears to be a common manufacturing defect on passats, however, since my warranty has expired, am I out of luck?
I have accept to loose 12,000$ for 10 months.
I traded the car for a subaru legacy.
That was not my first choice. But it is much more pleasant to drive than a van.
I lost a few pound of torque but got a much more reliable car with no engine vibration. With toyo H type tires I got a ride simminlar to german car at the Japanese price and reliability.
I have run it for 13 month now, I am quite please !
I came to conclusion german car are a bit more pleasent to drive but way to much expensise and not too reliable.
Japanese are hard to beat for the price!
I had 2 VW beetles, a VW sirroco 2 toyotar, and 2 passsats 1999, 2004)
My family had Mercedes SL, Honda accord, Toyota, Lexus LS 400, BMW 740, Lexus 330
I do not see in the near future, how I coud get anything else that Japenese,
Likely an Acura or Honda wagen (as soon they produce one) !
My 05 Passat TDI with less than 15k miles just popped up a check engine light and the message "Emmissions Workshop". Anybody out there seen this on a TDI, any ideas. I've just installed a K&N air filter two days ago and have been running 10 oz. per tank of Performance Service Cetane Boost for about 6 months. :confuse:
In case you haven't otherwise received an answer to your question:
"walkjc -- you mention that you are about to take your '99 passat in for warranty work. Did you buy your car with an extended warranty?"
99 Passat's came with a 10-year 100,000 mile Powertrain warranty. Have read varying reports on whether or not VW Honors the warranty, but at least in some cases they have.
Reid / SE MI
'99 V6 5spd; 75,000+
Is anyone else having this problem?
My Check Engine light, EPC light and ASR light are illuminated and I have been reading up on pulling the codes myself instead of paying a mechanic to do it. I have a 2001 VW Jetta VR6. I was looking at this tester on eBay, but I'm not sure if it's the right one I need. Can someone please read the desciption and offer any advice on whether or not it is what I need. Please note that I want to fix the problem(s), not just turn off the light. Here is the link to the sale:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/VW-Audi-OBD2-OBDII-OBD-2-II-Trouble-Code-Reader-Scanner_W0Q- QcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ43989QQitemZ4593893168QQrdZ1
Thanks a lot in advance!
Where's the best place to find Stanadyne? I'd like to experiment a little. 10 oz of Power Service has given me about 2 more mpg. Upping the tire pressure to 45 psi gave another 1 to 1.5 mpg. The wife can get around 38mpg on the highway at 70-75 mph. BTW, it was a glow plug failure that tripped the check engine and emmissions workshop - it gets replaced tomorrow. I thought that was odd since I doubt the glow plugs even warm up here in florida.
Dennis
http://www.stanadyne.com/new/ppt/ppt_search.asp
Krzys