Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see May lease deals!
Options
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
Has anybody noticed this?
A recent two hour interstate trip yielded no signs of coolant leakage.
If I come across a picture I'll post it. It's at the end of the motor with the belt. It's on the back corner of the tubes that carry the air through the intake.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Some notes on the procedure:
1. On my engine the cap dosen't have to be depressed to turn it counterclockwise about 1/8 turn and pull it off. There is, however, a spring inside, apparently holding the PCV valve down in its socket, that pushes up on the cap. So when the cap is replaced it has to be pushed down to comress the spring while turning clockwise.
2. The black cap has, in the tiniest of raised letters that anyone will probably find obscured in dust & oil & are therefore useless, "PCV" in two places on its top. It does not have a presure sensor or wiring harness on it as mentioned in message #1289 for a '99 engine (mine's a '95)>
3. I think message #1289 mentioned an O-ring on "said part" (the PCV valve). Ther is also a larger orange O-ring on the bottom of the cap not mentioned and the spring. I found both very loose so be careful... they may fall off.
4. From top to bottom the assembly includes: black cap, large orange O-ring, spring, PCV valve with small O-ring on it.
5. I had to use needle nosed pliers to get ahold of the top of the ole PCV Valve. Fingers are just too fat to get at it. The PCV valve with small O-ring has to be pushed with not too much force to get it to seat in its socket at the bottom of the black tube the cap sits on top of.
5. At 175000 miles, the old PCV valve was in excellent condition and didn't need replacing - but I did anyway. Maybe the guy I bought the car from had it replaced sometime. Like tsu670, I did laugh a little but cursed some too. Tsu670 is right - the beer on the deck helped soothe the pain. I paid $2.99 for it at Auto Zone.
I also had the brake pads replaced too. My car is a 99' GSE
the first time I brought the car back they told me I needed a new alternator, the second time they told me they couldn't hear the noise ( they didn't wait to cold start it) the third time, they sprayed something like wd40 on the fan belts and said sometimes it takes a while until they are broken in. The fourth time they told me its misalligned pulleys and tomorrow I bring it in for the fifth time. I'm going to tell them to just change these damn fan belts already.
thanks
Try a couple of tanks of plus grade and then try regular. See which suits your driving style.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
The main thing I need to know is, will the 3.8 go directly onto my transmission? Other questions I have is, will the other stuff go on the new engine ok, (air conditioning, alternater, etc.) I would be getting the 3.8 from a salvage yard, and I will require that it has the complete fuel injections system. If necessary, I can ask for an engine with the air conditioner, alternator, etc.
Any advice would be welcome.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
They also said the fuel pump had low pressure (38-40)and that it should be around (48-50). Can one make any reasonable assumptions on how much longer my fuel pump may last with lower than average pressure? Dealership quoted me a price of $550...so for now I'm just keeping an eye on it.
Oddly enough, I've read that the fuel filter offered by Fram is better than the one sold by NAPA (usually it is the other way around).
Any thoughts ? It goes away by increasing the RPM just a tad.
Does this need to be replaced, tightened, etc... I'm trying to avoid a costly trip to repair shop. Any thoughts are appreciated. A/C works fine by the way.
Use a long piece of wood to touch the various parts and hold the end near your ear to see what part rattles. Be careful of the moving belts and pulleys. Since it only happens with AC on it could be related to the compressor but also could be due to added load on the belt that something else is vibrating under different forces.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
The car has 98,800 miles on it and the asking price is $4200. The car looks very clean.
The owner says the front brakes need to be replaced. I think it is just the pads, not the rotors.
I did a carfax search and found the car was originally owned by a rental company for the first 25,000 miles. The current owner has had the car ever since.
You should be able to see the carfax history report by clicking the following link.
carfax report
Any comments on how many more miles I might be able to get out of this car? Any mechanical problems I should check for in particular?
Thanks in advance.
Mechanical problems: upper and lower intake, valve cover gasket, temp control display(optional). Check all power windows as well. Also, check your dexcool/radiator as some have posted it doesn't seem to protect as long as advertised. I've had my 99' Regal LS for a little over 2 years and have been very happy with it. Good luck.
The engine block has a great reputation for reliability. But confirm there are no fluid leaks - especially from any gaskets. A gasket may cost only a few dollars to replace, but you can count on hours of labor to make the replacement.
Lastly, GM's version of coolant (Dex-o-Cool???) is known to cause blockage if not flushed before its recommended 5 yr/150,000 change. When I owned a Regal GS, I flushed and filled the radiatior after 3 yrs/37K miles. Per the mechanical at the time, he said it was a good thing I did. He showned me noticeable sludge/sediments in two hoses I was having replaced at the same time. I could only imagine how the radiator looked if there was some sludge in the hoses.
I will be sure to note the items you mentioned should I go forward with an inspection on the car.
tjbrook1974@yahoo.com :sick:
Of course the first thing to do is check your oil level. I've read of instances where oil change techs have forgotten to tighten the drain plug, as well as install new oil after draining out the old.
Thanks in advace!
It calls for the removal of something called the driveplate inspection cover and starter, if necessary, to disconnect the electrical connector from the oil level sensor; and to disconnect the engine torque strut; and to disconnect the exhaust pipe and catalytic converter from the engine; and to disconnect the pipes leading to the oil cooler; well, there's more, but do I need to go on?
So, yeah, looks like the labor charge is reasonable. As far as getting it fixed right now, well, I guess that depends on how often you need to add oil (keep a log).
I'd had the keyfob itself (the only one I had with the car) checked and reprogrammed by a friend at a local GM dealership and it was ok. I was told then that replacing the unit if/when that became necessary would run nearly $400 for both the unit and new key fob + programming.
Is there a cheaper way around this repair? Is it something done just as well in a cheaper shop or is removing this unit somehow (thanks to evil GM engineers) as tied in to the car's system as our brain is to ours?