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Any idea what it could be? Thanks!
Is the compressor clutch engaged and the compressor turning?
Is the small tube from the compressor to the condensor HOT?
Is the large tube coming back from the evaporator in the car COLD?
If the compressor is turning and the tubes cold and hot appropriately, is the air inside the car coming out the dash vents or has it switched to the defroster? IF the car uses vacuum to control the air flow in the HVAC box, the vacuum may be lost due to back rubber connections under the hood, or due to the vacuum reservoir being cracked, etc.
I do not know if the HVAC box uses all electric actuators or if it does have vacuum. I do know the leSabres up to 1999 had electric to control the blend doors and used vacuum elsewhere. The vacuum connector on the corner of the programmer box on the heater would soften with age and the openings would suck shut. Usually the one for the blue vacuum line going to the door turning off the defroster and forcing air out the dash vent was the one first noticed. No vacuum, the cooled air comes out the defroster.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
to change that starter you have to remove the fans, loosen the ac compressor,coolant overflow tank and if you have a helper have them help hold the compressor and lines as far out of the way as you can. remove the starter bolts one from the front side then the other from the rear of the cross member. with some effort you should then be able to get it out under the ac and trans coolant lines. I've bone this and its a tight fit in and out.
ps. remember to replace the shims! good luck
I had the code read at AutoZone, which indicated a fouled EGR valve. Took it to the shop. They said they'd need to run diagnostics at $89. Fine. They come back say the EGR is "clean as a whistle", that there was probably some carbon in the EGR valve that didn't allow a proper vacuum seal, and that it passed through. Everything fine they say.
Today, same symptoms. Slowing down after moderate acceleration (in a hurry) the engine started stumbling a bit, like it may die. Happened for 45 seconds again, then cleared up. So question is, more carbon in EGR valve...or something else? I did put some Gumout cleaning solution in gas tank a couple weeks before this happened, could this have loosened up some gunk? Thanks.
Then I cleaned the interior of the valve where the gases go in using a small brush and a liquid cleaner. I may have used gasoline or mineral spirits. Do not turn valve upside down so that solvent runs into the part that has the motors that move things. I soaked it sitting in a small bowl of the stuff to soak the interior.
But I kept brushing using a plastic bristle brush and brass wire small brush from Harbor Freight. The rod that moves through the tight seal area inside that goes to the motors gets bound up with carbon.
If you have 3/8 inch drive tool set that is metric your can undo the two nuts. Unsnap the electric connection. And the thing lifts up. The gasket almost always is okay. Just replace same position it's in.
Thing has worked perfectly since the thorough cleaning on my 1998 leSabre with 180,000.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
rock solid but it is vacuum controlled and there was apparently
a vacuum leak in the unit which caused the stalling. Once replaced,
no more stalling.
CAN ANYBODY HELP PLEASE!!!
The rubber tube is likely 4-6 inches long and has some kind of lips that close to keep air from coming in and that keeps water from coming out until there's a bit of water in the tube. When that weight gets great enough, the lips are forced open and water comes out. It should not back up to the level of the inside of the HVAC box.
Because you directly tie the water to the case holding the AC and heater coils, that would be my primary guess.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
I apologize for the water problem you are experiencing. Please keep us posted when the issue has been taken care of.
Thank you,
Caron, GM Customer Service
Hopefully got everything fixed. Found the drain hose on firewall and stuck wire up into tube and water started coming out even though I didn't have anything else come out that was obstructing the water flow. I will find out tomorrow if it's fixed. would like to thank imidazol97
for your help and advice.
Details of GM's 3800 Model Engine Recall
When re assembling rinsed K&M filter with tap water. Did not dry properly, when re installed it (apparently) dripped water onto ECM/PCM. I tried drying but until it sat over night it didn't dry out. I did replace MAP first but that had no effect.
So for all those with stalling, rough idle, surging or just shutting off, I would check & clean the connections at the ECM/PCM as it is in the air box in the from of the car.
My understanding is that it's only checked for cranking at start. It does NOT turn off car after
the car is running. Often they'll turn the security light on and then off while driving as a hint the
system is not working right. But eventually you'll turn the key and nothing but a flashing light on
the dash saying security for 3-4 minutes.
When mine in 98 Buick failed, I could turn the key slowly going from step to step and let it have time
to read the chip in the key and think before I turned to START and it would work.
Also might be worn contacts in the ignition switch--not the lock cylinder part--the little box that
has all the contacts for ignition power and crank and power to accessories. It's moved by a little
wire rod from the key lock. It's on top of the steering column just behind the gauges and can be
access with small hands or/and dropping the column slightly. Check on the power lead to the
ISC to determine if you're getting power there when the car quits. Usually a CPS takes about
30 minutes to cool and the magnetic field to strengthen to activate the trigger signals. The ignition
switch often breaks contact when hitting a bump or turning and it moves the worn/corroded
contacts that are moved everytime the car has been started for 23 years. The brass wears.
I would suspect the CPS which was already replaced. Is this one that's adjustable in positioning and
you're supposed to use a "tool" to get it in the right position between the two rings on the backside of
the harmonic balancer? Or was that the 93 that was the last year for that?
I'd take a close look at the connectors for the CPS along with the wires looking for breaks inside the wire
due to flexing and look at the wiring coming to the ISC module that's under the coils.
CPS doesn't give trouble codes usually. I believe the 94 requires a code reader and IIRC the connection is a hybrid between the current one and the earliest. I believe there was a special cable to adapt. Search for 94 buick pontiac and reading codes cables, etc..
I used to have a bookmark link to a troubleshooting sequence for the ISC that allowed determining if the two separate rings on the harmonic balancer were getting the signals through to the ISC, the 3 and the 18 IIRC. This can be done with a volt ohmmeter as long as the engine cranks. Good for checking a fickle CPS or replacement along with the wiring and corrosion inside the contacts in the connector.
IF I find that I'll post the link.
EDIT: I found it.
It looks like it's been updated from the pictures I remembered.
Good luck.
http://easyautodiagnostics.com/gm_ignition_3800/test_ignition_module_4.php
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,