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You might also try this with the engine off-- perhaps the fan is only working on low speed and you can't hear it with the car running. That would indicate then that the resistor controlling fan speed is the problem.
Mechanics are unable to determine the problem and i already spent $500 on same things you did.
Don't know what to do anymore.
Mechanics are unable to determine the problem and i already spent $500 on same things you did.
Don't know what to do anymore.
Good luck.
A friend said my O2 sensor might need to be changed and it would correct all those codes.
If anyone knows anything further on this and know how much $$$ this might end up costing me please give me some input!
Thank you!
P0100 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Malfunction
P0110 IAT Circuit Malfunction
You need to replace a knock sensor on bank 1, MAF, Intake Air Temperature is usually a function of the MAF so I'd replace the MAF and check it from there.
BTW, I don't see anything relating to the O@ sensors. So how did your friend figure this out?
It boggs down when first taking off. Then as it warms up it becomes more pronounced. Soon even when running at higher speeds the RPMs drop. At this point it wont idle in park and can become very hard to start again.
I never have replaced the Idle air control valve. Thats my next step. any other sugestions ? I dont wont to get rid of it. The engine and transmission and appearance are stll very good. But when after bringing it to Nissan and they could not ID it I am very discouraged.
This is happening while the car is stopped in drive or when it is in park. When I depress the accelerator while in drive to move the car, the steering returns to almost normal function (still has a bit of sluggishness). After letting the car warm for a while the steering almost returns to normal, with the exception that when turning the wheel to the furthest extreme of the turning radius, I feel the wheel giving jerking resistance to the car being turned.
I checked the power steering fluid level, and it is between the cold maximum and cold minimum levels. Is this the power steering pump? Could there be moisture in the power steering fluid, which has frozen?? Or could air in the power steering fluid lines cause this? What is casing this problem?
My knowledge of how plugs and combustion work is; that the plug fires at the maximum fuel/air compression level to get the most power from the combustion.
Does the heat of the spark make a difference? Isn't it true, that once the minimum flash point of the spark necessary is achieved for detonation to takes place, any heat (energy) over and above that flash point, necessary to cause detonation of the fuel/air mixture is superfluous?
If my understanding is true, then spending more money on expensive plugs, is waistful. Please tell me what the real deal is. :confuse:
My local mechanic put it on a diagonstic and said it was not transmission related. I am reluctant to take it to the dealer because the car ran fine for my mechanic when I brought it to him.
Any thoughts much appreciated!
My local mechanic put it on a diagonstic and said it was not transmission related. I am reluctant to take it to the dealer because the car ran fine for my mechanic when I brought it to him.
Any thoughts much appreciated!
tell him exactly what I told you. He said that I needed to bring it in WHEN
it was having the problem. He's usually a super mechanic so I don't understand why he wouldn't know what you stated. Oh well, I'm getting ready to drive up to
Melbourne to pick up my mom tomorrow and hoping I don't have any problems!
You'd better get under there and figure out what's really wrong.
So if they don't believe you, or try to blow you off, take them on a test drive, in fact, insist on it. Then ask them if they have your original parts that had nothing wrong with them. You have to be forceful but not obnoxious when presenting your case.
It is very possible it is the wheel bearings on one of the sides and not the CV joint at all. You can check your wheel bearing by jacking up the front end, (have your boyfriend do this). Wiggle the front wheels left to right and up and down to figure out if there is excessive play. If the wheel bearing is bad, it will appear to be loose even though the wheel is on tight. This is a big possibility when you go over bumps and get a lot of noise when you turn, that a wheel bearing nut can be loose. I would take it back and specifically tell them it was suggested to you that they check and tighten the wheel bearing nuts if necessary.
'17 Chevy Volt Premiere
The Check engine light comes on very easily on these.
Disconnect the battery cable and leave it overnight. It will reset the computer.
Filling the gas on a hot day and not closing the cap properly can also cause this.
My husband wants to change the coils himself but I am not sure which ones to purchase or where to purchase them from? Can anyone help me with this? Also, is there a step by step guide he could follow? He is pretty good with cars but has never done a coil replacement before.
Thanks for any help you could give me!
I have 2000 Infiniti I30...essentially same car.
Twice it hesitated in starting
Yesterday morning when I was taking it out of the garage..gear in reverse the engine idled rough. Service engine soon, SLIP, and TCS off light went on.
Turned the car off.
Started it again SLIP & TCS off light went away
Service Engine Soon light is still on. Any suggestions?
Thanks for help
Sanjay
2001 I30 and maxima are identical cars.
Another source is courtesy nissan for OEM coils.
The process of changing it is very simple. Details can be found at
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and
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If you are interested in complete service manual they can be downloaded from
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best of luck