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http://gwebworks.com/elantra_gt/garage.shtml
I would sell my wheels if anyone was interested.
It was my Hyundai dealer (who also owns the Suzuki dealership right next door) who made the difference. My salesman and the service staff just seemed to be that much more pleasant and helpful at Hyundai. You know, I would recommend either car without a moments hesitation.
Oh......and I thought torque was the thing, not HP.
4300 km on my Elantra and loving it more each day!!
17s are what I have in my car... play it safe and go no larger than 205/45/17... anda no lower than 40 series in profile.... (3 of my rims are now scratched... damn NYC Curbs..) and yes the level or road noise and ride quality is stiffer and louder... i like it though...
The Subaru Impreza base wagon is about the same price, and I've seen them advertised for well under $18,000 (2002 units). I won't go into the Sportage because that's 4WD and not comparable to the Aerio and Impreza.
The pan is aluminium not pressed steel like most manufacturers use - these used aluminium for rigidity and to reduce noise. The design calls for a fresh crushable washer to be used plus a certain torque setting.
I bet neither of these are being followed
As for the 2000 Accent referenced in message 2617 -- I would bet that the pan is steel on that car which makes the ineptitude even worse.
Hyundai cannot account for all the poorly trained people who attempt to do simple oil changes and fail to do a proper job. Any so called mecahnic who can't thread a bolt in a hole should not be working on anything mechanical.
Dealership "mechanics" are no better than anyone else in this regard, since most of the time those assigned the task of changing the oil are the lowest guys on the totem pole ... the kid apprentices.
Last oil change I had done by someone else was at the dealer. The moron who put the plug in must have used an air wrench, because I could not get the plug out. I had to waste my time to go to my nearby Midas (the dealer was full on the Saturday I called to tell them about the error of their ways) and two people there had to spend over 5 minutes and use various tools before putting vice-grips on the oil pan plug. The head of the plug was ruined obviously.
If the person at the dealer had used a crushable oil plug washer and torqued it to spec there would have been no problem with me getting it off. I now have a Fumoto Oil Drain valve installed so that people changing my oil (if not me) can do this without waking up their brains.
The valve fits the original threads, and your oil pan's hole would need to have the threads re-cut, and since you need to make the hole bigger to do this, I think you're SOL.
I think you need to fight with that dealer and get a new oil pan installed. Then install the oil drain valve.
Most quick lube joints hire people with little to no mechanical knowledge, and dealers pawn "simple jobs" off on cheap labor. Save yourself time, money and aggravation and do your own maintenance... you'll probably enjoy your car more!
"The oil has always been changed at the selling dealer - Monday of this week, they discovered the drain plug threads stripped, and replaced the oil pan under warranty. ... When the 30,000 mile maintenance comes up next year, I will gladly pay Hub Hyundai (Houston) to replace the trans fluid, filters, coolant, and whatever else is stated in the owner's manual."
Well that is the same dealer that did the oil change on my GT and overtightened the oil plug. I also bought my car from Hub Hyundai.
They are not bad, as a dealer, and I would get other warranty work done there I suppose (as opposed to another Hyundai dealer) but when it comes to oil changes I would think twice .... Even with my Fumoto valve in place.
Or at least don't get it done on a Saturday when they tell you up front they don't have real mechanics working.
When you are talking 4 cylinder vehicles you really get many more categories than in larger cars 1.5L, 1.8L, 2.0L all give very different results and weight is also a critical factor in this size vehicle, whereas say in 3.5L, 3.8L & 4.0L comparisons (which are the sizes of our standard 6 cylinder family cars here) you tend to get much smaller differences.
I notice when accelerating hard, like on a freeway onramp, that the engine bogs down a little bit around 3800 RPM (regardless of what gear its in), then bursts with power right at 4000 RPM. Both dealers I've taken it to put it on the computer and say all is within specs. Anyone else experience this?
"I notice when accelerating hard, like on a freeway onramp, that the engine bogs down a little bit around 3800 RPM (regardless of what gear its in), then bursts with power right at 4000 RPM. ... Anyone else experience this? "
Yes ... this is the characteristic of the Beta engine. There is a "flat spot" around that area of the torque curve.
See http://www.gwebworks.com/elantra_gt/gt3.shtml
Thanks for the reply, and I dig your site.
Go to Hyundai's website and click on Elantra and you'll see what I mean. I don't know which one I think looks better, but I'm happy with what I have. Everyone comments on them.
www.hyundaiusa.com
4 1/2 quarts w/filter. It is SUPPOSED to be 3 1/2 quarts w/filter. I know this has been addressed in the past but it is very important. Before having the dealer change my oil with their "special offer" I called, they said 3 1/2 quart and sure enough they put in too much oil. The same happened the one time i had it changed on my Santa Fe. Please be aware of this...too much oil is as bad as not enough oil.
The GLS beat the just released Corolla and was just one point out of first place which went to the Mazda Protege.
I would have loved to see how the GT would have placed. The standard equipment and tighter suspension may have been enough for it to garner the pole position.
Protege LX: 9.2 117(gov) .75g 59.9mph 24mpg
Elantra GLS: 8.5 113(gov) .75g 55.4mph 26mpg
Corolla LE: 8.2 115(gov) .74g 59.4mph 33mpg
Civic LX: 9.3 113(gov) .76g 56.5mph 30mpg
The Elantra posted good numbers throughout, with the exception of the lane change where the GLS's softer suspension made it slower than all but the Suzuki. (The GT would have probably done much better here.) Where the Hyundai really did well, though, was in the subjective judgments. The editors really liked driving the car, praising it's seats, steering, engine, control feedback and spacious cockpit. They also singled out what I felt was one of the best things about the car, but could never quite put into words: "There's an honest, no-monkey-business purposefulness about the way this Elantra moves.". "Looks like this Korean maker has arrived".
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
Not so fast, why is that?
And note that these guys based it on sub-$16,000 MSRP cars; the ES (with all its extras and better wheels/tires/suspension) could have made it into the test if you apply the specials and rebates currently available. IMHO it wasn't as close as it sounds :-)
No denying, though, that Hyundai definitely has pulled their act together as well, and the Toyota and Honda aren't the only obvious choices any more :-) Nothing like some healthy competition!
BTW, the reason that C/D is biased towards the Protege is that they are biased towards cars with good handling, no matter what else they can do.
Humm, Mr. Backy, please explain to me what mean *biased*? To me, it means that the verdict is not entirely based on an objective criteria, but distorted by a subjective preference, e.g., "I like american car because it's... american" or that sort of things. Good handling is an important characteristic of the car and there is nothing wrong to judge the car using this characteristic. And I'm sure that the total score of each tested car given out by C&D take into account many more aspects than just the handling. I have a hard time to understand your comment.
Bruno
I really wanted to like the automatic as I live in center city with lots of stop and go traffic. But that buzz......
PS How is the reliability for the Hyundai's doing? Any web sites to check?
TIA
For me C&D is less biased than "Consumer Report" for example, as I consider the handling very important as well.
You like the Huyndai better, some like the Protege better, so what? Nothing wrong with that. Depending on your own preference, you may agree or not with the magazine verdict. But I don't thing it's fair to call a magazine biased just because they don't put the car that you like at the first position (assuming you did your home work before buying your car.)
Bruno
You bet it is there. Not only are their reviewers clearly biased when it comes to various aspects of a car's performance, but they are also biased towards various manufacturers. For instance, C/D seems to be clearly biased towards Japanese and German cars. Consider Automobile magazine ... they are biased against anything that regular people drive. Apparently only exotics are "automobiles" since that is all they seem to be interested in.
Reviewers are humans who are not always able to separate the subjective from the objective in their reviews. Moreover they are "automotive journalists", not engineers, not technicians, not race car drivers. They are one notch above the people who review for Consumer Reports. As a result of that, it is reasonable to expect that each bunch of reviewers will have their likes and dislikes, and that this subjectivity (read bias) will come across in their writing. This can then extend to all members of a review team tending to write the same way since they all have the same masters to respond to in addition to the innate tendency to not contradict one's workmates all in the effort to "get along".
The trick is to find a publication whose reviewers have managed to minimize this subjectivity and to stick with these guys. Another thing to do is resist the temptation to believe what they say verbatim. Unless their reviews and comparisons are based on some sort of scientific method in which bias can be separated out, reviews are all opinion and are to be valued accordingly. As this viewpoint is.
Finally, a word on CR. They are not even worth mentioning in the same breath as even the crappiest car magazine. These clowns need to stick to simple objects to review. Car reviews are best left to people qualified to review cars, not those who only know to drive them but have to "review" them while reviewing toasters and microwave ovens. I have found their findings on cars I have owned to be not simply one person's opinion vs my own, but downright *wrong*. With me their credibility when it comes to cars is zero.
Bruno