Yeah, I guess Linkin Park did help me keep my foot down, but the trip seemed to take longer. Geez, a lot of these boy bands sound alike. The only way you'll see me going 65 on the highway is with a police escort. Calculated 25.1 MPG for the Dallas-Galveston-Dallas trip (75-80 MPH). I-45 is rolling hills for about 2/3 of the way. My ancient (circa 1982) Belden detector saved me twice.
Did you use the built in computer to figure your average gas mileage or the good old calculator? Just curious because I thought you said you averaged 29 mpg?
You want those? WHY? Are you racing??? I think they would definitely DETRACT from the 300. Duals, signal mirrors, no lettering, tint etc. look great, but those gauges??
Well, I got my mopar hitch assembly, my bike rack, and my hitch adapter over the last couple of days. I just spent 30 minutes fussing around with the pieces in the garage and found a problem. The 1 1/4 inch hitch receiver has a small metal stop on the inside that helps align the pin holes when you use the ball hitch attachment that comes with it. No problem there, except that I need to use an adapter to go from the 1 1/4 inch receiver to a 2" receiver because that's what the bike rack needs. Here's the problem...the shaft on the adapter is longer, and it won't go in far enough to pin the parts together. The solution would be to find a way to remove the stop or modify the adaptor. Both would be a pain.
Glennbp - since I don't have stands can I come over and work on this at your place? It also requires a second set of hands to hoist this thing around while drilling holes, lowering the exhaust, etc. It would also be good to have a second opinion on what to do about this metal stop, AND when to pack it all back and boxes and ship it back because I can't lower my exhaust out of the way. lol
I took my M in for service today, around 30K, had tranny fluid and filter changed, etc. I also mentioned that I have heard (and sometimes felt) an intermittent click in the steering wheel/column as I spiral up or down the parking garage at my work at slow speed. I really expected to get back a "Can't duplicate" response, but they say the problem was with my clock spring, which they replaced under warranty. Apparently the clock spring is part of the mechanism to maintain electrical contact for cruise control and airbag as you turn the steering wheel. Haven't driven up the parking garage yet, but they seemed confident they cured the problem. Anyway, my dealer has always provided me with competent and VERY attentive service, so I'll publicly salute Medved Chrysler on the west side of Denver.
I now have the Warranty Direct formally Warranty Gold. I have the Platimum Coverage which covers every thing but rubber (boots, hoses and belts). I can take it to any shop (handy when traveling) and the shop calles then with the estament and they pay through a credit card #. At the time it cost me $900 for $0 deductable and they cover to am maximum of $25,000 or 7 years/100,000 miles. The struts and bearing would have cost me $625 yesterday with out it so, to date I am only $275 in the hole with 3.5 years to go.
I have been looking for a while too, with no luck. The page tom gave gives no information. I tried to email him with no luck. Fastdriver, there are not a lot of places that you can put guages on this car. Some have put them in the cubby hole or ash tray area, but I consider these areas too low. I wish to have a Temp guages for Oil and transmission, voltage, and oil pressure. (I like to know what the car is doing (or even thinking of doing), just haveing gas and generic gguages is a sin in this vehicle my old truck had four gauages at least. I hate idiot lights when a guage is called for. What I miss is the pod my T&C had that I put guages into.
Glad to hear it. No vibration here, still. It has improved the handling somewhat too. I broke the clip in my Gtech so I will take a day to repair. I want to do some more skidpad testing to really test the lowering.
you could mount them on the cover of the center console like Dubz did for his airride system---but its not in the line of site--- or how bout building them into a modified sun visor and keep it in the down position--easy to keep an eye on them---
I have added that link to the "Other Useful Sites" page on the Club's site. I have also cleared off all the bad links that were on that page and the "Other 300M Sites" page. If any Club members have pages they want listed on the latter page, let me know via the link at the bottom of that page.
I heard a while back that the Autometer Pods made for a 2001 Neon will pretty much fit the 300m without much modification.... How true this is, I dont know...
I used a pencil at the pump to calculate the actual mpg. My overly optimistic "29 mpg" brag was based on observing the real-time mpg readout on the computer. With the rolling hills it would go from real high mpg to the high teens. I guess I'll get out the owner's manual and figure out how to work that computer properly. The long term mpg is a little over 19 mpg according to the computer. Around town, it's not too good.
I replaced my shift knob with the Razo knob yesterday. Very easy! Only glitch was the center plunger extension piece is made to screw on the Japanese type center plunger shaft. If you don't fix it to the shaft somehow, it will still work just fine, but it will rattle. The solution is to epoxy the piece to the top of the center shaft and then seat and tighten the knob. I'll post pics this evening. Anyway, if any of you are thinking about replacing your knobs, it was obvious that any automatic knob should work with the M.
Looks very cool! I went with the titanium and black instead of the carbon fiber and chrome. There's already a lot of carbon fiber in the car and I liked the titanium finish better than the chrome. The overall height is a bit shorter than stock which makes for quicker autoshifts which should make someone on this board happy. (I forgot who was complaining about the travel distance of the shifter.) Anyway, you'll have to come by and take a peek!
Will likely see you this afternoon. I'm on my way to fight the crowds at Sea World because my dear wife wants to see her cousin from Oregon who is there today. I'm not sure why she feels a need to include ME in this little exercise when I have more important things to do.
Another idea I was thinking of is to resest half the guage into the top dash (the non padded part) since most guages are 90 deg sweep. I also want the lite (not the beer) ones because they are white faced and match the M's guages. I just have to see how much room there is to work with. Or to go with digital guages.
Well, I may have found a solution to my wood trim problem. For those who have no idea what I'm talking about, I installed the Joshua Tree trim which didn't match the factory (yeah, my fault) and I now want to change it.
I found a place called Dashes Online www.dashesonline.com who sells a Sherwood kit which includes everything, and I mean everything, to replace the original 300M trim. Their kit includes all the regular trim peices such as around the shifter, radio, air vents, power windows, etc. But they also include the long piece that goes across the dash and the long pieces that go across the doors.
The guy who owns Dashes Online name is Will and he's extremely friendly and helpful. He sent me a sample sheet of all the trim selections including Rosewood, Burl, Carbon Fiber in real or simulated materials. They also have Brushed Aluminum, Gray Burl, Birds Eye, Villa Burl, Red Burl and Glossy Silver.
I now have two problems (one which I believe is solved) That one is that Sherwood doesn't have the 1999 300M shifter trim with their 25 piece trim kit, but they do have it with their smaller 15 piece trim kit. Will said he could add the trim from the 15 piece kit to the 25 piece kit for a minimal cost. It would certainly be less than if I went out and bought the 2000 shifter trim for $199.
My second problem is now that I see the brushed aluminum and glossy silver, I may just bag the wood altogether and choose one of those. Does anyone know where there's any photos of a 300M trim in brushed aluminum? What do you guys think it would look like with the dark gray interior?
avalanche had that in his, but I'm not sure if there are pictures to be found anymore. I remember not being too impressed with it, as it looked like someone started chroming the interior. I think it took away from the regal good looks of the car. However, opinions are like noses....everyone's got one and they're all different!
Glad the trim problems are resolving. My thinking, for what it's worth, is this: If you want the classy more luxurious look go with wood. If you want a more spartan or sporty look go with the brushed aluminum or even carbon fiber. I would stay away from the glossy silver as it does, as Mike said, cheapen the interior considerably. I have seen some brushed aluminum, as one of the guys at the Carlsbad meet had a custom aluminum job done by a friend of his. I likes it, but then again, I have the carbon fiber!
Count me in the wood grain look too. The brushed aluminum looks unfinished to me (like its been sanded and waiting for the finish coat or something), but in the end it is whatever rocks your world that counts.
Go to Discountdash.com, click on the "photo showroom". Go to the 300M Pix. They are using burlwood and bronze. I have had this kit in my LHS for over a year and it has held up fine. My dealer commented on the interior and said he liked it much better than the stock interior. It looks especially nice in car equipped with beige interiors.
I've posted a few pics of the Razo knob. Honestly, it's nice, but not worth $105.00. The titanium "finish" is plastic. Actually, I don't think there is any metal in the entire knob except for the set screws. Look under interior photos:
for $250 its a good deal for real wood. And it covers the factory pcs as well. Anyone put that on his M? Wonder which would look better with agate---the walnut or the burl? any opinions?
I had the pleasure to view glennbp's latest mods today. I have to say, the engine lettering looks simply awesome. Only about 1 million times better than I could ever paint. Imagine the texture of the Chrylser letting on the exterior (soft and raised), but apply them to the engine lettering with wicked translucent colors. The picture didn't do it justice. It looks more like opal than the picture. I also got to see the Razo shift knob (but wasn't allowed to touch it) and I have to say it's real cool looking in glenn's interior. It would look like crap in mine, but our interiors are very different. I'm not sure if these two mods were worth $250, but they sure are nice!
Real wood may be ideal for your dining room table but for a vehicle that is subjected to temperature changes, high and low humidity wood kits can crack and warp. Our kits are made from synthetic material that is designed not to fade, crack, peel or warp."
I want to thank glennbp for helping with my hitch today. For those of you that don't have another club member nearby, find one! Worth it's weight in gold. Anyway, the mopar hitch went on pretty easily, and it doesn't look too obnoxious. I'll post some pictures soon. The important thing to know is that it is NOT a one person job. There is a bunch of lifting and maneuvering, and the darned thing is HEAVY. Also, if you have duals the installation is easier because you don't have to get the rear muffler out of the way.
To follow up on my previous post, we were able to get the adapter to fit (1 1/4 to 2 inch) by cutting a notch in the adapter with a dremel bit. Cutting solid steel wasn't very fun, but all it cost us was time and one bit that I virtually melted. The instructions were pretty good, and everything fit like it was supposed to. We only had to drill 3 holes for bolts, but other than that it was just an assembly project. Next time you see glennbp ask him about his magic drill that cuts rectangular holes. lol!
The wood is synthetic but the grain is done so much better than the stock Chrysler Zebra. The brushed bronze is plastic as well but very tastefully executed. I'm telling you, installed this kit rivals anything out there.
thought you said you didnt like faux dash kits--eat your words! yes the pics look good--does it fit perfectly over the dash, shifter, door and radio? I like the idea that it fits over the original fake wood--
the dash online site is flat, but it is real wood. ut you have to remove the long dash pieces and door pieces to install kit. Does anyone know of a moulded kit the covers the long dash pieces and is real wood? Joshua wood trim is real wood but therefore probably wont match my 2000 fake wood --they dont offer the long dash piece.
If I go with discount dash now I have to decide color---walnut or burl---I have agate interior--opinions?
Comments
I think it makes the molecules bind together a little closer and thus last longer! ;-)) J/K
fastdriver
Silver
do they sell prefrozen brake pad? or do you freeze them yourself
Did you use the built in computer to figure your average gas mileage or the good old calculator? Just curious because I thought you said you averaged 29 mpg?
fastdriver
I have a rifle barrel treated this way.
I can't pick it up until Tuesday!
http://www.geocities.com/custom_lh/Interior.html
These should work with the M.
You want those? WHY? Are you racing??? I think they would definitely DETRACT from the 300. Duals, signal mirrors, no lettering, tint etc. look great, but those gauges??
fastdriver
Glennbp - since I don't have stands can I come over and work on this at your place? It also requires a second set of hands to hoist this thing around while drilling holes, lowering the exhaust, etc. It would also be good to have a second opinion on what to do about this metal stop, AND when to pack it all back and boxes and ship it back because I can't lower my exhaust out of the way. lol
Mike
The struts and bearing would have cost me $625 yesterday with out it so, to date I am only $275 in the hole with 3.5 years to go.
Fastdriver, there are not a lot of places that you can put guages on this car. Some have put them in the cubby hole or ash tray area, but I consider these areas too low.
I wish to have a Temp guages for Oil and transmission, voltage, and oil pressure. (I like to know what the car is doing (or even thinking of doing), just haveing gas and generic gguages is a sin in this vehicle my old truck had four gauages at least. I hate idiot lights when a guage is called for. What I miss is the pod my T&C had that I put guages into.
Doc; maybe you can add it to the club site
Try this site:
http://www.autometer.com
They have pod guages that look very similar.
Silver
I found a place called Dashes Online www.dashesonline.com who sells a Sherwood kit which includes everything, and I mean everything, to replace the original 300M trim. Their kit includes all the regular trim peices such as around the shifter, radio, air vents, power windows, etc. But they also include the long piece that goes across the dash and the long pieces that go across the doors.
The guy who owns Dashes Online name is Will and he's extremely friendly and helpful. He sent me a sample sheet of all the trim selections including Rosewood, Burl, Carbon Fiber in real or simulated materials. They also have Brushed Aluminum, Gray Burl, Birds Eye, Villa Burl, Red Burl and Glossy Silver.
I now have two problems (one which I believe is solved) That one is that Sherwood doesn't have the 1999 300M shifter trim with their 25 piece trim kit, but they do have it with their smaller 15 piece trim kit. Will said he could add the trim from the 15 piece kit to the 25 piece kit for a minimal cost. It would certainly be less than if I went out and bought the 2000 shifter trim for $199.
My second problem is now that I see the brushed aluminum and glossy silver, I may just bag the wood altogether and choose one of those. Does anyone know where there's any photos of a 300M trim in brushed aluminum? What do you guys think it would look like with the dark gray interior?
-vman
http://glennbp.bizland.com/
"Is this real wood?
Real wood may be ideal for your dining room table but for a vehicle that is subjected to temperature changes, high and low humidity wood kits can crack and warp. Our kits are made from synthetic material that is designed not to fade, crack, peel or warp."
To follow up on my previous post, we were able to get the adapter to fit (1 1/4 to 2 inch) by cutting a notch in the adapter with a dremel bit. Cutting solid steel wasn't very fun, but all it cost us was time and one bit that I virtually melted. The instructions were pretty good, and everything fit like it was supposed to. We only had to drill 3 holes for bolts, but other than that it was just an assembly project. Next time you see glennbp ask him about his magic drill that cuts rectangular holes. lol!
Thanks again glenn.
the dash online site is flat, but it is real wood. ut you have to remove the long dash pieces and door pieces to install kit. Does anyone know of a moulded kit the covers the long dash pieces and is real wood? Joshua wood trim is real wood but therefore probably wont match my 2000 fake wood --they dont offer the long dash piece.
If I go with discount dash now I have to decide color---walnut or burl---I have agate interior--opinions?