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This happens only during acceleration? After this happens, how do you get going again?
I have a 94 pathy with no blower/no cig lighter/no rear wiper and hope your experience might solve my problem. (it's not a fuse - maybe a ground wire somewhere ?)
Staceyh
another mechanic that works on nissans said that he has heard of engine problems with pathfinders and has heard of 20 or so engines that have been replaced. but getting nissan to do this is difficult.
has anyone else had this problem???
White= water vapor, normal, especially when engine is cold and ambient temp is low.
Blue= burning oil. Check oil level to confirm if oil is being consumed.
Black= Running too rich.
Thanks in advance for any info.
The next time you believe you can reproduce the smoke, I would have someone stand near the tailpipe and try to smell the exhaust odor. If it's oil or coolant that's burning, the smell is quite distinct.
Otherwise, it could just be water vapor. How cold is it where you're at?
i live in vancouver and although the temp does vary from winter to summer take today for instance.....not any smoke in the morning after a cold start yet yesterday there was.....after several stops and starts today around town, i had one large smoke screen mid day that lingered. after driving across town and stopping then starting....no smoke.....what gives? could it be a stuck valve?
The best way to tell would be to pull the spark plugs and see if any of them are fouled. If your truck is still under warranty, I'd take it to another dealer for a second opinion and have them take a look. What you're describing is definitely not normal.
Has anyone else had this happen?
I'm also finding that the transmission is shifting harder than it used to. The dealer suggested flushing the transmission, which didn't seem to make a difference. My lease ends in a month, and I'm getting the feeling that maybe this vehicle might be one of the few Pathfinders with a lemon after taste, and time to move on t :confuse: ">o something else.
Came home the other day running fine. Shut it off and the next day it wouldn't start. It turns over just fine but won't start. Will run with starting fluid. Replaced the fuel pump and filter with no change in behavior. Tested the relays and they seem to be okay. It is getting fuel to the injectors but seems injectors are not firing.
Any ideas?
Here's another test to diagnose a no-start condition:
Crank the engine for a while, then pull a spark plug. If it's wet or smells strongly of fuel, then your injectors are working and the problem is ignition-related.
If you do indeed diagnose the problem to be fuel-injector related, then there may be a bad electrical connection somewhere between the ECM and the fuel injectors.
what i heard them talk about was the fact that there is a problem with the engines in that the ring gaps on the pistons have the ability to line up and this allows oil into the chamber...has anyone else heard of this????
After learning of this problem I found a message board with a few people who had the same problem. One person pointed out the problem and sure enough that is exactly what it was. Your problem is the clutch interlock rely switch has gone bad. It needs to be replaced and it's very easy to do. The part will cost $15 at AutoZone. It is located next to the battery along the front quarter panel on the passenger side. It is a square (rather large) fuse (it may be black or gray in color). It simple pops up and out and just stick the new one in. Real easy. I replaced mine 3 years ago and havn't had a problem since. Unfortunately I spent $$$$ replacing good parts trying to solve this problem. Good luck
I hope the sounds go away...but ask the service techs to look at the hood. You never know.
Which 10A fuse blew?
If you replaced the fuel injector, but the cylinder still misfired, then it must be lack of spark. The Nissan dealer's diagnosis was inaccurate. The ECM should be one of the last things to check.
Assuming your ignition components are relatively new (i.e. plugs, wires, dist cap and rotor) the next possible culprit is the ignition coil, which unfortunately is embedded inside the distributor. So, you might have to replace the distributor (~approx $280 at Pinnacle Nissan. Also check your favorite OEM parts sources.)
Thank You
Because the transfer case locks the front and rear axles together you can and usually do get "binding". Think of the two drive shafts - front and rear. The front wheels go further around a corner than the rear (when moving forward), so the difference is made up by "skidding" the tires, but there is torque built up before they skid. When you shift into reverse you are releasing that torque (and if you go too far you will build up torque in the other direction). That torque binds the gears and prevents the transfer case from shifting. You can also release it by driving forward and turning right and then left (one of the turns will release the torque allowing the transfer case to shift).
Something to know if there is no way to back up.
All 4WD vehicles that don't have a centre diff. or some other slip limiting device (such as a viscous coupling) do this. Those that put in a centre diff. have to use one with "limited slip" if they want to approach the capabilites of the locked systems such as we have. For example, the Toyota 4Runner uses a Torsen centre diff.
Went home got your message tried it out. (good idea by the way). the light worked on the first cylinder dim and pulsated nothing on the other 2, where is the ECU the guy tried to tell me but you seem to know more then he did any other suggestions but be greatly appreciated....
when your turn your wheels in four wheel low range it puts the gears in a bind and to release that you need to back up so that it puts slack in the gears so they will come out ....
This is just nuts. We had a code reader but couldn't find it when the light was on. Working on finding it or getting another one for -when- not if, the light comes on again. It may not tell me the truth, but I just have to know what the ECU thinks is the problem. One possible solution is replacing the light with a resistor, because a false reading is worse than no reading at all!
As far as the ECU location on earlier models (mine is a 2001), xplorx4 is your best bet. I have the service manual for the 2001.
Since the alternator is driven by the fan belt, the alternator output can be monitored to detect whether the alternator is turning. Now, if the alternator is failing then the output is probably enough to make the vehicle think the fan belt is broken.
My guess as to why the AT temp and Batt lights glow is that if the fan belt breaks, most drivers probably won't be astute enough to notice that the temperature gauge is hot before it's too late. However, most people usually will immediately pay attention to the instrument panel if it lights up suddenly.
In your case, I'm not sure why the Batt light isn't also glowing, but I would have your alternator tested nonetheless. Most auto parts stores like Kragen or Autozone will test the alternator for you for free (removed from vehicle, of course).
Thanks.