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My ideas on this right now is that if it does revert back, it could be the fuel/oxygen mixture or a foreign chemical mixing with the fuel (i.e. oil, water) either from the vehicle or from the station tanks.
Now that it straightened up for God only knows how long, I'm almost sure its not an exhaust related problem.
I checked the power to the fuel pump in the tank and it works.
I looked for another fuel pump on the driver side frame near the door and all I find is a fuel filter.
If anyone reading this message knows what else to check or knows what the problem is it would be a great help, because from here I have no idea whatsoever.
thanks
youngstown
It is inside the gas tank. Tank will have to be dropped.
On the fuel rail on top of the motor, there should be a schrader valve. Get a fitting for this, rubber gasline hose, and a gauge that will not be ruined by gasoline. Put this contraption on the scrader valve on the fuel rail. Turn the key on. You should get 45pounds, maybe more, of pressure. Less, you have a failing fuel pump. Zero, you have a dead fuel pump.
The Ranger Manual looks like 3000# GVWR but I think this is the same thing as the Mazda B4000 40L V-6 which can pull 5800. I know this ranger can pull more
than others.
I'd like to get camper 19-22' ultra lite aerolite cub unloaded 3300# GVWR 4840.
I get 2 different answers varying between the above references. one should be fine and 2 no too heavy. Does anyone know for sure?!!
Your help would greatly be appreciated. Safety comes first.
thanks- chi_gator
I replaced the fuel pump shut off switch and the solenoid.
My Step-Dad feels that I just simply ran out of gas. I asked him if there was ever a time when he drove it that the buzzing sound that he always believed was the fuel pump working wasn't there and he told me that the buzzing sound was always there. This tells me that he's never had this problem and that what he believes is whats right. He told me to put the tank back on the truck, put gas in it, and drive it down the road. I'm thinking I will also put the old parts back on it just to insure to that its not going to start no matter how much gas he has put in it. either that or not put the gas in it and start the truck.
My step dad isn't very confident of me and when I dont know how to do something I dont do it until I know for sure that I am able to do it with few conflicts.
If it starts without the gas being put into it it either had to be dirt built up around the wire connector at the fuel pump or the solenoid went out.
The tank has between 1 and 2 gallons in it. the day before this happenned I was talking to him about signing the truck back over to him. Since he's so sure I ran out of gas, I'm thinking I need to hand him the singed title in the morning before I do anything else to the truck; then put the truck back the way it was; old solenoid and old shut off switch. Now I think if it doesn't start, he's gonna accuse me of tearing his truck up just like he did when the slave cylinder went out the 3rd time (he accused me of riding the clutch) The 1st two times it went out, he was driving the truck and he had nobody to blame. So if only riding the clutch will cause the slave cylinder to go out, does that mean he was riding the clutch and never learned from his own mistake; therefore he feels that I dont have the ability to learn causing him to not be confident of my learning ability? He would never admit that.
He's told me that this 2.3L 4-cyl 5-speed truck has 2 coils and 8 plugs, therefore it has to be firing somewhere, which i dont doubt. However I have seen cases where there was a problem with something else and it caused the coil and the distributor to go out. I'll let everyone know tomorrow night how things turn out.
I bought a 2005 Ranger (4x4 Ext Cab 4.0 Automatic) in June. I haven't really got any kind of decent mileage with the truck but im still breaking it in, so I can understand. In the past month, though, the mileage has dropped off significantly (3-4 MPG). I was wandering if anyone else has experienced this or if anyone knows what might cause such a fall off
I've checked around this forum and it seems like it could be the brakelight switch but I don't think it is because the top/middle still works.
All my other lights (signals, reverse, headlights and tail lights) are still working, so I don't think it is the fuse.
Any ideas?
Hank
u have any idea?? i am in desperate situation.
but ever scince then the truck runs fine.
Whith your truck, the 4x4 controls come from the gem module so that might be the problem, if you have a good mechanic take it to him and have him put the scanner on it. if he can't, write me back and i will give you directions.Good luck and let me know what happens.
Cheers, Brian
I have run in to this a few times, you might want to check in to the turn signal switch! You see the standard brake lights run through the turn signal switch, this is how it splits up the bulbs for the turn signals in the rear. Which in turn there is a separate signal sent back to the (center High Mount stop lamp) from the brake light switch.
So if the circuit in the turn signal goes out, the standard brake lights will be inop, But the high mount will still work!
And Yes,
If this does happen the turn signals will still work, Two different circuits!
The self-sustaining oil can get old and whatever therefore has to be checked periodically(every 5 to 8 yrs).
Follow the wires to see where it goes. if theres any wires that go directly to the dash from the drive train chances are thats the one your looking for. If your speedo is digital the the wire goes to a computer brain or to a breaker box under the hood. Check the manuel for any fuse/breaker/microchip that works the speedometer.
Thanks
Anyway, for my 94, the fuel pump collision reset is inside, above/at the top of/slightly behind the carpet, on the right side of the driveline tunnel. There is a box with a button on the top that needs to be pushed.
I just read your message again.
No light. No turnover.
This doesn't indicate just the fuel pump is deactivated (although it might have been). If this is deactivated, the lights would work, the motor should crank over, it just will not start because the fuel pump does not pump fuel.
You've lost the battery somehow. It may have broken a battery post off, broken a cable, or something like that.
Sometimes 'minor' accidents can cause much more damage than imagined.
Anyhow, at certain times the rpm's will drop down and it will develop a serious miss. It sounds like a lawn mower going down the road.
For instance, lets say im goin 55 mph in 5th gear.which is usually around or below 3,000 rpm's. All the sudden the rpms will drop down to 1500, and it will start putting along. Then the tach will go up again and it will start running properely.
I have changed the fuel filter, all 8 plugs, plug wires, fuel pump.
I have been told that bad fuel could cause this, but it is happening too much to be bad fuel. Am I losing a coil pack? There is a exhaust leak on the manifold, could this be letting cold air into the engine?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
It should be throwing some codes if the sensor is bad. Is your check engine light on?
Anyway, I'm not sure I would 'throw parts' at this problem. This might need to be something a comptenet mechanic needs to check out.
Anyone had this problem or got any ideals what to check? Anyone know where to go from checking the dash swithes on through the system?
Can someone else remember? I know this has been covered on here.
If the sender has failed, it's inside the tank, which will have to be dropped.
If I dropped the tank, I probably would also replace the fuel pump that is also in there. This 94 is now at least 11 years old....
(The sender and fuel pump may be one assembly, which means you've got to replace both.)
Your best bet is to simply take all the bolts out of the bed, and move the bed back a little. No need to undo the tail lights, you wont move it that far. In all it should take an hour or so.
Now dont listen to anyone that says its easier to just drop the tank, no its not. I have done it both ways, to drop the tank you have to drain it, then lay flat on your back, get a mouthful of mud and rust, then somehow lift the tank back up by your self. Just move the bed, and spend more time on something else, plus you can test your pump before you put the bed back incause somethign doesn't work.
I spent $2000 repairing my transmission at 50,000 miles. I'm now at 70,000 miles and it needs more transmission work !
No wonder Ford doean't provide a drivetrain warranty as good as Toyota