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We bought from Honda of Clear Lake. It was the most pleasant car buying experience I've had. We got the car for 18,500 which was a fair price at the time and seems to still be a fair price. They also gave us $500 more than I planned for a 9 year old trade in. The car came in 2 weeks later and off we drove. If we buy another Honda we will go back there. It is also the nearest dealer to our house.
Unfortunately I almost had the same experience with them. We negotiated an OTD price that they matched at another honda dealership, then they told me the car with the color i had been looking for just came in on the truck so i drove in the pouring rain and when i got there, they said it had been sold. They then tried selling me a royal blue one they had on the lot which i refused and then they said that for the price i was quoted it had to be on the lot and that if they ordered one, i would have to pay extra. Needless to say, i haven't gone back and will never go back because you can't trust what they say. Thanks for the info.
Drove through the lot at Sunny King and saw at least 4 Civics. Didn't stop to check the trim levels b/c I didn't want to talk with a salesman, esp. since I'd been moving furniture all morning.
Maybe this helps or maybe you've moved on.
Best of luck,
Roundtrip
Need some advice here. A neighbor is selling her LX do to job relocation. What is a fair price for her car? It has no added options and is an automatic very clean too. There is no KBB data to reference so I'm thinking between $14,500-15,500. Is this a good range to start the negotiations?
Thanks
Pete
Her mileage is over the average. so yea.. 14,500 oughta be your starting point.
The Anonymous Dealer
If you really want a Civic, try e-mailing the Internet sales dept. (with your OTD price already in mind) and see if you can do some negotiating.
Also, try another dealership when you are ready to buy. I don't think it is a good idea to browse a car lot during business hours if you are not sure about a make/model or not wanting a test drive. You're not really taken as a serious buyer i.e. you have a checkbook in hand or a printout of TMV, KBB, NADA, etc. prices, something as evidence that you want to spend your money. I wish it didn't have to come to that, but often does.
Anyway, it sounds like you really did not want the Civic if you were so easily discouraged. As has been said before, you are not at the car lot to pick up a new best friend.
I have not found a dealer yet that has more than one or two Civic EX AT sedans.
You might want to wait for the '07, though. Maybe they'll have most of the bugs worked out. However, can't see you getting any kind of deal on those.
Yea... still have several inbound '06 and don't expect the pricing to change dramatically. Still seeing STRONG demand.
You won't see too many DX's down here! No A/C standard and no Radio! I'm not ordering any.
The Anonymous Dealer
At first I thought we could've gotten the sale price down a few hundred more dollars but judging from the comments here it seems we actually got a pretty good deal?
Good deal? You betcha! (esp. if we are only looking at car and destination fee like most folks ask for in pricing)
Just wondering if I'm contributing to the free market or to Honda's bottom line...
Who ships the cars for that $550/car deestination fee? Does Honda have their own delivery system or do they contract out? Any idea?
I know that the dealer we got our Civic from didn't have the color we wanted in stock but guaranteed us (our contract lists that we only want galaxy gray) they'd have one within a few days...does anyone know how this works? Do they trade with another dealer or is there some massive lot that all dealers access in this type of scenario? In other words where is our car actually coming from and should we expect it to have additional miles on it from being driven from wherever it is right now?
The Sandman
Did not buy the sealant ( I like to wax and we have had hideous experiences in the past with sealants) and did not buy the extended warranty.
I was willing to drive the 30 miles to avoid one of the closer dealers whose salespeople have always been rude to me with dirty demo cars and almost empty tanks. They say we create the world we want by what we choose to do and buy so my choice is no dealers like them and no Walmart. )
Built in Ohio, no pull to the right and no rattle from the airbag. Thanks to everyone in the forum for all the great information. Worked with the sales and internet managers and would recommend and buy from them both again.
The digital speedometer will take a little getting used to but I really like the new windshield wipers for much better coverage during a downpour like I drove in yesterday. I will miss the automatic side mirror defrosters which we had on the 11 year old car this replaces. You would have thought those would be standard by now. Love all the safety features and high safety ratings and decent gas mileage.
All in all great little car and a great buying experience.
Good for you..... I too won't give my business to any dealer who tries "old school" tricks with me, they've lost the chance to earn my business.
And I know what you mean about Wal-mart too, I feel like I have to take a shower after shopping there....LOL.
The Anonymous Dealer
We have traded cars as far as Utah! (we are in TX)
I have been reading through these boards for over a year now, and have always been to shy to post. I have learned a lot about car buying, and even though im good at helping friends get a good deal, trying to bargain on one of the hottest selling cars on the market has been exhausting!
I live in Las Vegas and the Honda dealers here either have no inventory or are unwilling to bargain, not to mention that they have $399 DOC fees, and some are charging $200 VTR fee on top of that, no thank you. Even going through the internet quotes have not been promising. Best deal I could find was $19300 with $319 doc from Stephen Wade in Utah, they even offered to deliver at no extra cost.But then I decided to try the internet dept at Valley Hi Honda, Toyota, Scion in Victorville. They called me right away and said they had a few EX's in stock and would let me have one for $500 over invoice!! with $45 doc fees!! they even had my favorite color Galaxy Gray that came in the day before. I Jumped on it, and made an 11 hour round trip bonsai run to buy my car!! They had it ready and waiting, and the process couldn't have been easier, they were great. I saved about $1000 over the Utah dealers price and about $1600 over the Vegas dealers price.
And because of all of you im confident I have gotten a great deal, on one of the best cars in the market (say good by to that F.ound O.n R.oad D.ead) and because of the warranty forum, I declined the $1500 warranty, I will shop online at some of the recommended dealers for that.
I am so happy, sorry such a long post, I just wanted to give a heart felt thanks, and post my experience as well
Little Red
Way to go!
Did you get good mileage on the trip back? :P
Sorry... couldn't help it! Just heard it from a customer.
1. I have been in the market for getting a new civic ex. I was quoted 18675 with (destination included) for an ex with navi. Then the internet manager said that the total cost would be 10% in addition to the car+tax and license. What exactly does this mean?(i have a hazy idea but im not too sure im right, or maybe i dont want to be )
2. I notice that many people talk about otd price and not paying MSRP. When you talk about not paying MSRP are you talking about deciding on the car price first (lets say hmm 18,700 incl. dest) trying to get the price under msrp for just that and then dealing with the doc and other fees seperately or do you guys mean trying to get the otd() price under msrp?
3. Lets say i want to do a trade in on an '04 hatch and I owe lets say 7430 and NADA says my car is work 6500 in assuming the car is in good condition(normal wear and tear no major accidents or rust that type of stuff). Does the dealer actually go by the book? I know that detrimental stuff would definietly knock the value down but i just want to know.
4. So assuming that i owe 7430 on the payoff of my car, and that i actually get the 6500 to put towards my new car, my understanding of a trade in (or part of it at least) is that the difference ($930) would be applied to the financed portion of the loan right?
Thanks, I have been trying to study the forums and other sites, since my first car buying experience sucked. Thanks
1. "Then the internet manager said that the total cost would be 10% in addition to the car+tax and license."
-- Sounds like the dealer is marking up the car. That is a pretty steep markup, but the 06 Civic is a very hot selling car and most Honda dealers are selling at MSRP.
2. "are you talking about deciding on the car price first (lets say hmm 18,700 incl. dest) trying to get the price under msrp for just that and then dealing with the doc and other fees separately or do you guys mean trying to get the otd() price under msrp?"
-- The price of the car and the dealer fees and taxes are separate issues. You cannot usually negotiate tax, tag, or title on a vehicle and most vehicles where I live charge a processing fee. Based on my experience in Northern VA and Maryland, dealers will not drop these fees.
3. "Lets say i want to do a trade in on an '04 hatch and I owe lets say 7430 and NADA says my car is work 6500 in assuming the car is in good condition(normal wear and tear no major accidents or rust that type of stuff). Does the dealer actually go by the book? I know that detrimental stuff would definitely knock the value down but i just want to know."
-- Unfortunately trades do not always work that way. There are alot of factors on a trade-in including, the vehicle itself, wholesale value, local inventory, popularity of the vehicle, mileage, condition of the vehicle, etc. I have always used KBB trade-in value as a guide and almost always get more than true blue book value. But.. I usually am trading in cars that are in excellent condition and are usually of a popular Japanese make and model. You also have to play hardball.
4. "So assuming that i owe 7430 on the payoff of my car, and that i actually get the 6500 to put towards my new car, my understanding of a trade in (or part of it at least) is that the difference ($930) would be applied to the financed portion of the loan right?"
-- You got it. The dealer has to pay your trade-in off, and will apply this negative equity to your new loan. FYI, you are in a bad place here. I would think twice before trading in a vehicle that I am upside down in. What you have done is just move your negative equity into another new car. Unless you plan on keeping the Honda for a long time I would be careful. But that is a personal decision.
As for the price of the Honda Civic, this really depends on where you live, how many dealers are in your local area, inventory, and how open you are to colors and options. The fact of the matter is that these cars are hot right now and gas prices are high. If the dealer insists on applying that 10% fee, then I would demand that they payoff your trade-in. Seems like you have some maneuvering room on your trade-in to me..
One other thing.. Have you looked at some other cars? Such as the Mazda3? It is a very comparable vehicle and you can get one much cheaper (at or below invoice)..
2)fees are what they are and CAN vary from dealer to dealer (More so out of state than in state) Most fees are non-negotiable except documentary fees above $50.00 and "local dealer service fees" or "Prep fees i.e. clearcoat, protection pkg. environmental pkg.)
3) Trade values will vary from dealer to dealer (especially from domestic dealers to import dealers as domestic dealers have a higher margin and can "hide" negative equity... doesn't change the value of your vehicle!) Some cars are COLD so pricing may be adjusted.
4)any negative equity will be added to the financed amount on the new car (RegZ)
Mazda3 vs Civic? hmmm...
p.s. Kelly blue book is often WAYYYY off when your current mileage is either over or under what they consider as average! As a Dealer I do NOT repeat DO NOT consider this as an acurate guide. I have personally appraised vehicles 9,000 over kbb and under by as much as 4,000! kbb (MY OPINION) is not an acurate guide and fosters distrust for NO reason!
Live in Tulsa, Oklahoma
Please help!!
Thanks,
New mom
p.s. Kelly blue book is often WAYYYY off when your current mileage is either over or under what they consider as average! As a Dealer I do NOT repeat DO NOT consider this as an accurate guide. I have personally appraised vehicles 9,000 over kbb and under by as much as 4,000! kbb (MY OPINION) is not an accurate guide and fosters distrust for NO reason!"
Not disagreeing completely with you, but as informed consumer I recommend that folks look at a variety of sources, including KBB. The Honda dealer in my area was very upfront about trade-ins when I purchased my Odyssey and told me they would beat KBB price before I even asked. I think that is mostly because I was trading in a low mileage, well maintained, popular car (Nissan Altima). I had researched the going rate in my area and knew what the dealer would be able to sell it for. I estimate that they still made about 1-2K easily on the car (it turns out they sold it within 72 hours on the lot because the VIN # was wrong on the trade-in paperwork and I had to come back in and resign it so they could sell the car)..
I'm with you. I am about to buy a 2006 LX Civic 4 door AT. I 1st car was a 1989 Civic with 180K. My 2nd car was a 1999 Civic VP. I like Honda Civics I purchased my first car from a private seller and the second at a no haggle dealership. The 2006 Civic is one great car. I test drove it. Compared to my tin box 99 Civic VP, I felt like I was driving an Accord or an Acura! :shades: What I have been doing--and what I advise you to try--is to go on a dealership's home page and get a "Quick Quote." Fill out the info and tell them you only do E-MAIL (you want a paper trail) communication. You will do the phone calling when you have the deal you want. In the comment area, tell them what you want--2006 Civic LX, stick or auto, color, and any added items--mud guards, day/night mirror and compass, etc. Also tell them that you want their "ONE TIME/BEST/NO HAGGLE" quote. See what dealerships have to say. See what prices they quote you. You may want them to give you an "OUT THE DOOR" price that includes all fees, taxes, etc. In terms of paying for the car, I have been getting quotes from credit unions (in Michigan, they have nice rates). Get approved for a loan and compare it to Honda's financing. I was quoted 7.25% for 60 mo. on an 06 Civic at a dealership! :surprise: I'm getting 5 1/4% at a local credit union. So, shop around. Call around actually and get those "Quick Quotes" off dealership web pages. And don't be afraid to travel 100 miles for the best deal. This is a Honda and it will go at least 200K. A good deal is worth the trip!
It is just frustrating to know that you have appraised a vehicle for "all the money" and not have a customer believe you because of unreliable info.
The Anonymous Dealer
You can check inventories at each dealer's site and if those are accurate, the most any dealer seems to have is 1 or 2.
Has anyone shopped for EX sedan lately to see if supplies are really that down?
I guess discounted prices are not going to happen if the supply/demand favors the dealers as it seems.
Probaly could've gotten more for my trade, but mentally, I was ready to buy, & since I had the $ and only wanted to buy a Civic, I bought the car. Very happy with it still, but I hate the Goodyear tires it came with. The wet traction is horrible & it stinks going around corners...feels like it wants to slide. Will probaly swap them out before I hit 10k miles for a Bridgestone tire that has more wet & dry grip. My last set of Turanza LS-T's were an excellent tire, so I might try to get those or possibly the Dunlap SP Sport Plus.
Good luck with your buying experience & please use Edmunds & KBB for your pricing guidelines. I did & they were great!
The Sandman
The SRP is $200 but some dealers are trying to get over $300 and most dealers are charging at least close to $200 to install. That can't be right can it?
You can go to estore.honda.com and it will let to see what different dealers in your area are charging for this and other accessories.
Some of the installed prices for things like floor mats are ridiculous. How much labor to "install" a floor mat?
This Honda Music Link was designed for Hondas and Acuras. SHould only be a matter of plugging in things and running conduits to the glove box, if the conduits already don't exist.
2) Music Link for Ipod is pretty in depth as the controls are through the radio as opposed to using the Ipod itself. Also varies by model (thats what my parts/service dept tell me)
3) Make sure the sources you seek include labor! (Never go to the E-store but will now check it out)
4) what is SRP?
The Anonymous Dealer not an acronym specialist
Quick question for any one that might know... If I put seat covers on, will that inhibate the side Air bags from deploying if necessary?
Thanks!! Red
Anyways, Honda prices are 2 or 3 times the price for comparable accessories for the Mazda3.
I'm starting to think that might be a better choice, compared to Honda's prices.
They have a couple of EX Coupes with markups of $4000, making the total almost 28k! Or maybe it was Si Coupes.
They had one EX Sedan way in the back but that didn't have the extra sticker with the "Dealer Markup." Yet.
I have heard that you can't put seat covers on because it inhibits the side air bags. My salesperson said it was true.
I was thinking of using just an 'L' shaped cushion.