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i would check the conectot to the pcm which sits on the fire wall in the engine compartment on the right or passenger side right behind coolent tank
big bunch of wires pluged into pcm wigle around or unplug and plug in a couple of times (BE SURE TO DISCONECT THE BATTERY FIRST}
1. Sand with 600grit, get paper wet and sand away you see the yellow go away right then.
2. Sand with the 1000grit, get paper wet and sand a long time this helps get out some of the deeper 600grit scratches.
3. Sand with the 2000grit, get it wet and your arm is going to hurt, this is the last and final sanding stage and you want it to look good, this will fine down those 1000grit scratches
4. Rubbing Compound. Now your light is already going to look a lot better, you will be able to see the inside but those fine scratches do make it somewhat cloudy. Now move on to the rubbing compound. buffer is recommended or the drill attachments they sell today are also good. You will see the scratches disappear leaving it looking so much better.
5. Mcguire's Plastx, i have heard a lot of good things about this product, i dont know how much it really did but i think it helps protect it somewhat, but yes it did help with the final finish. Apply it with the buffer also and buff away.
My final product looked awesome. Remember to take your time with the sanding. This will give you the desired look. Also it is a good idea to tape off the light while it is on the Car so you dont mess up any paint around. Good Luck Hope it helps!
Replaced the pipe/hose but intermittently the power steering fails (especially at low revs) and I have a heavy clunking when turning sharp left or right. Right hand constant velocity joint seems to be a bit rough but all fine when both fronts jacked up and wheel turned full circle (without engine running of course)
Anyone had similar problems? Is is the pump, the steering box or something in the CV joint?
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
Is the relay the 40Amp(Fuse)in the PCM/PDC on the right side in engine compartment?
If not where exactly is the relay?
Is there an ambient temp sensor? Where?
AC engages, fan doesn't go on.
Temp exceeds 210 deg., fan doesn't go on.
Hot wired, fan goes on.
1 remove front bumper and grill assembly
2 remove 1 support bolt near front reservoir
3 remove reservoir bolts (2)
4 remove reservoir get out of way
5 disconect wires from relay
6 remove relay
7 replace by going back up the list
And the dealer said I need a new computer...
(BLAH BLAH BLAH)
The interesting thing is that it doesn't leak all the time. And, when it leaks sometimes a will lose a lot of coolant, other times its just a small amount of coolant.
I had tried everything else then one day thought "you know, if they can sand paint to a perfect finish why can't I do it with plastic?" So I did. Only I used a power sander (still takes a while, but at least my arms didn't hurt when I was done!)
I'd have at least 2 auto parts stores test it for you.
I suppose if that's not it it could still be a loose ground to the frame, maybe from the battery to the frame (not likely but possible)
Also what code(s) are you getting? If you turn the key on and off three times it will tell you your codes (look where the odometer is) The reason I ask is because it's interesting how the dealers interpretation of the codes are always more expensive than my interpretation of the codes based on my haynes and chiltons manuals.
If you don't know turn the key on and off three times and look at the odometer it will tell you all the codes in (aprox.) 3 second intervals.
If it's only one code (and the same one) repeatedly and replacing the spark plugs did not work then it's likely to be the injector.
Basically it's all about voltage I'd need a pen and paper to effectively describe it but I'll give it a shot anyway.
The PCM monitors voltage spikes created when the spark plug ignites fuel sprayed by the injectors, it translates the combustion into voltage information via sensors that are part of the fuel injection system ie. the TPS, CPS, MAP, ect.. It then uses the internal voltage regulator (which knows what a normal spike, charge, hold and discharge pattern looks like) to adjust the injectors and such as it sees fit for proper function of the vehicle.
The above code(s) is(are) set when the voltage spike is too high, or too low (or when a faulty sensor is telling the PCM the spike is too high or low) We feel a 'sputter' so to speak because the either we really have a bad voltage spike, or the PCM is trying to adjust something that doesn't need to be adjusted because it thinks we have a bad voltage spike...
All that to say chances are it's (in this order) probably going to be fixed by:
1. Replacing the spark plugs (and inspecting and replacing the plug wires as needed)
2a. If other codes accompany the above codes, or you have more than one of the above codes replace the TPS (throttle position sensor)
2b. Replace the MAP Sensor (as code dictates)
2c. If no other codes apply and you don't have multiple of the above codes replace the injector (test first with a node light.)
3. on (my best guestimate, cause I can't remember exactly) 1994 and earlier models I believe the voltage regulator is separate from the PCM if this applies for your vehicle replace it if the problem persists after replacing the above.
4. as a last resort (because I may have forgotten something) replace the PCM
Afterthought: as expensive as the MAP sensor is, and as fun as it isn't to change you may consider double checking your applicable relays and the Camshaft Position Sensor before replacing the MAP sensor. The relays are typically $7-$15 dollars and the CPS was around $20.00 I think whereas the MAP Sensor is nearly $100.00-$200.00 (also if you don't have a P0107, or P0108 code I wouldn't mess with it unless something else points to it being that)
However we should remember that just because the code says it, it doesn't mean that is or isn't the problem. The diagnostic codes are just to help us solve the puzzle and reflect what the PCM thinks the problem is. Yes it's a fact that is will show us where there were negative readings but it's only as dependable as the sensor reporting to the PCM. Also some problems with trigger other codes ie. A P0121 (TPS does not correlate with MAP) indicate a problem with either the TPS, or MAP sensor a problem with one of those sensors will cause you to see a P0301, or P0300, P0301, P0302... codes as well. In which case we must determine which code most likely reflects the root cause of each of the codes.
Beginners should think of it this way, if you are hungry your brain senses that the stomach is empty and set a 'code' indicating hunger, perhaps even stomach pains, headaches, shaky limbs (arms, legs) ect... You wouldn't try to replace your stomach, head, legs, arms, and brain to fix this problem just because you had 'codes' telling you there were problems with each of these. (there is always a root cause that will effect other components and send false readings)
1. Steering pump drivebelt may have play in it or otherwise be faulty.
2. Faulty power steering pump (not so fun to replace)
3. I wasn't able to verify for sure but I believe that somewhere between the steering column and the steering wheel is some kind of belt. When this belt is loose or going bad you will see symptoms similar to what you are describing.
Good luck, I must admit the steering components aren't really my thing.
Also the dealership has replaced the window motors several times, however the windows sound like they are laboring when the window goes up.
Any insight would be appreciated. :confuse:
Thanks, Smokebee
Any ideas if this cover should just come away, or if there is something else to remove? Thanks.
on this part there is a rubber plug about 1 1/2 in long take out and there is a snap ring under it that you have to release
after that you have oil pump and stuff
look like PIA to change
don't know if can send scan to you need e-mail to try to send file
By the way, what is PIA ?
Roughly translated, it means "pain in the anterior."
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
Some people say to seal it after all the sanding and polishing. Tuggajb (now where have I seen that name before? ) used lacquer from Home Depot to seal his after polishing the lens.
We thought by taking out the bolts that the cover would just slide back. Other than the bolts is there anything esle that could be stopping it?
I plan to look at fuses next. But when pulling the cover I only see one that is break related - Break switch. Could it be that one? I remember the break switch on my Honda being unrelated to the lights though.
the holders for the bulb have been known to go bad from heat can get them from jeep for bout 10 12 bucks try that first other wise prob bad tail lamp assembly
ANY IDEAS?
0302 - Cylinder # 2 Misfire
0306 - Cylinder # 6 Misfire
1762 - Governor Pressure Sensor Offset Volts Too Low or High
The vehicle starts, but it is very sluggish. I have not changed my spark plugs in about 60K miles, so I think that that may solve the 03XX codes....what do you think????\
Also, what can I do to fix 1762? Thank you for your time.
Roy Daniel
SSgt USMC
if so did you use atf4 non other must use atf4 in your trans anything else will scrue you up
what engine you have?
on the right side (pass)side in engine compartment behind coolent tank is computer have had to unplug and clean contacts regrease(with dilitric grease get at radioshack) and rehookup
make sure that you disconect your battery before doing anything to computer hookups
2. I have a 4.0L 6
3. Is the computer realted to the cylinders?
all spark and fuel control is by computer if you get missfire on only couple cyl could be plug wires but if you clear coads and they come back on same cyl then wires or plugs if change to othe cyl then computer or crank sensor
Have a safe and fun Memorial Day and remember those that didn't’ make it. Flags are authorized and encouraged. Clipkarn :confuse:
I have an 03GC.
Warper rotors replaced under warranty at 10k
Warped rotors erplaced under warranty at 22k
Warped rotors replasce by me at 36k
Jeep replaced by a japanese car ASAP.
C