Thanks for the Dealers name, unfortunately it is a 4 hour drive from me, I am in upstate NY and was hoping it was a closer part of Mass. to me, I did look at their website and they have the lowest price Accord coupes I have seen. If I could find that deal in my area I would buy it today. Thanks Again
Just because that dealer in MA isn't that close to you shouldn't mean all that much in the scheme of things. My shopping experience showed me that dealers do not sell very many coupes and they are very willing to negotiate aggressively on them so if you want an accord coupe I wouldn't give up especially when you can get 0.90% right now,thats a very nice incentive.
2011 4 door with 17 in wheel . nothing else. what is the best price i could get... i got a quote for 21850 , all tax, title and registration are not included yet..
i dont know how much room i can negotiate with dealer.. hellp.
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Are you looking for a vw or Honda Accord? I purchased a 2011 Honda Accord EX for 20, 340 which includes destination. Sticker price was 25,655. I purchased at Herb Chambers in Boston
I see a number of posts of folks buying new Honda Accord 4 Cylinder SE's, LX, LX-P's and EX-L's. I have gone through 4 tanks of gas - most of it on the hwy. I have never reached 30 MPG. Just wondering if anyone else is seeing experiencing the same thing....
Hi, that's a really good price you got there for the EX-L. Would you mind to let me know which dealer and saleman you got the car from and what is the finance rate you got? I would like to get a car sometime this week or next. I also live in Phillie area. Thanks a lot for your help.
That is a great price for Accord EX 4 dr. Was it automatic or 5 spd. manual? Also, Honda was offering $500 loyalty rebate for current Honda owners in February, so was that applied to your price of 20,340? Can anyone confirm if that rebate is still offered in March?
Sussman Honda 1543 Easton Rd Roslyn Pa 19001. Great place to buy a car from no BS and my salesman Jim Russell was a very knowledgeable guy who deserves your business,good luck.
Sure,there was no trade in and I transferred my registration so it was $23076.00 for the car the transfer was $188.00 plus 6% sales tax,once I was in the finance office I discussed nothing else because I wanted to make sure there where no add on's or anything added on because you have time to buy an extended warranty and the deal went smooth as silk. Sussman were great to deal with and I highly recommend Jim Russell,he knows his product line very well and was very cordial and not pushy in any way. After the deal I did go back and purchase all weather floor mats and Jim helped me with those as well. Great experience and I hope yours is as good as mine was.
Hello all, I am first-time poster here and this looks like a great informative forum. I am currently considering buying a Honda accord 2007 VP model from a Honda dealership in San Francisco Bay Area. Since the vehicle is Honda certified pre-owned by the Honda dealership, do I need to have the car checked out by an independent mechanic for usual pre-purchase inspection considering it is a Honda certified car and has already gone through Honda inspection?
I ask this because decent car mechanic shops are usually closed on weekends, and weekend is the only time I find to make the car purchase. So even though I do not mind giving about $100 for pre-purchase inspection, I can not do it over the weekend (unless someone knows good honda mechanic open on sat/sun in south bay).
The car comes with 1-yr/12K non-powertrain limited warranty - is that supposed to buy some peace-of-mind or is it one of those marketing gimmick kind of warranties by the dealer that do not really address any real future issues with the car - for example, what if the starter breaks or hose starts leaking within 1 year - would dealer cover that or would he consider it normal wear-and-tear?
Dealer is asking close to 13.5K for the car - a good price?
Great question! I've been looking at certified 2008 coupes EXL V6 with 30-60K miles and varying prices. I do pay close attention to any details in the Carfax, such as what's reported at time of certification, new tires, new brakes, 4 wheel alignment, new battery, etc. I do wonder when shocks, struts should be evaluated. I also ask to see service records and verify they apply to the correct VIN. I, too, wonder how valuable/reliable this certification really is? I have no doubt some dealers adhere to this process better than others. I checked a few at Paragon Honda and wouldn't buy a car there with someone elses money!
Certification is meaningless, unless you want to trust the dealer. Ask yourself the question - Do I trust dealers 100%.
I was looking at a Dodge pickup (certified) and the car fax showed an accident. I asked the dealer about it and he said there was no frame damage, so the vehicle could be certified.
Take that for what it's worth. Good luck on your purchase.
Just wanted to let everyone know that we got an Accord LX with 3 miles on it at test drive out the door for $19,163. We also qualified for the 0.9% financing and first months payment paid for through Honda Financial. This was in Lexington, KY at Don Jacobs through Greg Hines. I think we got a pretty good deal as most were atleast in the upper $19,000s if not more. It ended up being over $5,000 off MSRP.
I can't condemn the CPO program in one fell swoop once the dealer puts a certified sticker on it you do have recourse and typically a dealer will stand behind his product. Nothing beats a thorough inspection from your own mechanic to give you peace of mind and as far as paint work I would say that about seventy percent of all used cars have had some form of paint work on them or a bumper replaced that's just the nature of the beast when your looking at a used vehicle. Carfax isn't a bad place to start but it can only tell you what's been reported to motor vehicles or insurance and thats it. The bottom line is if your worried about paint,prior accidents, carfax and things like that then a few more bucks up front and buying new might make you sleep better and long after you drive off the lot that car will be in your drive way so by smart and sleep well.
I went to the dealer to look at the above car. The dealer showed me the inspection list (for certification) they had done on the car, but did not show me an actual paper that said that the car is certified as of now. Are they supposed to have a paper showing that or just the inspection list with 150 items checked off supposed to suffice?
Is it is good idea to negotiate the price before independent pre-purchase inspection (which a certified car should pass with flying colors), or afterward? First time buyer here.
Anyone has bought Honda from delaership in south bay (south bay honda, dublin honda, stevens creek honda)?
If you buy with over 36K miles, out of new car car warranty, from a private seller in good shape, can it be taken to a Honda dealer to be certified if it meets the usual criteria?
It's typical for Honda dealers to inspect the car, and advertise it as "Certified" before actually registering it with Honda and paying for the extended warranty. That way, if someone doesn't want to pay extra for the CPO warranty, they can just sell it, as is...
Are they supposed to do it that way? Probably not.. but, really, the only thing you gain by purchasing a certified car is the extended warranty. You have to assume any Honda dealership is going to treat their used cars the same way, as far as inspecting them for safety and wear items, whether they are certifying them, or not.
Honda sells Honda Care extended warranties through their dealerships.. I'm not sure what the cutoff is (though I suspect it's before the original warranty expires). Since the warranty is the only thing that makes the car "Certified", then you can accomplish the same thing...
Though, as I noted.. if it's already out of warranty, you may be out of luck.
thanks.. in the case of this car, they had publicized it as a certified car, but there was no certified sticker on the car, so that concerned me.
Is it a good idea to to negotiate the price on phone/email before going to the dealership to look at the car to finally purchase and testdrive, since a relatively new certified car usually drives fine and I do not expect test drive to reveal anything new?
I'm not sure I'd worry about negotiating, before going to look and drive the car.. late model or not... you just never know how an individual used car is going to drive.... or, what sort of cosmetic condition it might be in..
Nothing wrong with going to look, then coming back another day to negotiate..... or, get the salesperson's email address while you are there the first time...
What do you gain by negotiating over a car on the internet that you haven't even bothered to look at? If you search out a particular model and year the information is out there to allow you to negotiate but first and foremost you need to select a car. Take the vehicle to an independent mechanic he may find some things the dealer missed or didn't bother to check which could either make you question the purchase in the first place or negotiate a better price based on your out of pocket expenses for any necessary repairs.
Last but not least I very recently had a horrible experience over a CPO because I was in a hurry and the car was certified and still had factory warranty on it so I put my faith in the dealer that if there were problems I had warranty and "certified" backing me up,WRONG.
Don't negotiate what you haven't driven and taken to your mechanic or your wasting your time and like me never trust a CPO on face value.
I'm in the market for an Accord EX-L V6 w/Navi, anyone else have a deal that they would like to share? I'm a first time buyer and this would really help. Thanks!
Hello All, has anyone ever heard of manufacturer to dealer rebates that last for just a weekend or a specific week? I received an unsolicited e-mail from a local dealer last Thursday indicating $500 off prices good until Saturday. During the same time period, I was watching another dealers internet prices, and the 2011 Honda Accord EX-L dropped $1000 about that time, and returned to their original prices today.
I expect that it is relatively easy to find incentives that last a month or more, but harder to find and publish something that lasts only a week. Or are these likely unrelated attempts to bring in business using the already documented incentive for March.
What are your thoughts and experiences?
Additionally, I have gotten different opinions as to whether there is a March Honda Loyalty Rebate that is not tied to financing. Has anyone received this in March?
I posted and several others have as well about the prices paid for ex-L models but I don't recall having seen one with navigation(expensive option) but if you base your price off what others have paid you can probably find your range even with navigation.
Incentives change constantly and not just across the country but regionally as well check with Honda in your area as to what incentives are available and for the time frames for which there good for,be careful though because "dealer cash" doesn't necessarily have to be disclosed.
Does anyone know of a good honda mechanic shop open during Sat/Sun in the dublin/livermore area of CA?
I did a google maps search for honda mechanics in the area but most shops are generic (quick lube kind of places servicing just about any car) and are not open on weekends.
I helped my daughter purchase a 2011 EX-L V-6 (no-nav) this morning. This car lists for $30,180. We got an internet quote of $25,180 (yes, that's $5,000 off list) from Terry Lee Honda in Avon, IN (just west of Indy-ask for Scott Clugston at 317-272-1000 or just make contact on their website and he will respond). We went and bought one this morning. Apparently, there is an unpublished factory to dealer incentive of $1500 per Accord for the month of March. Add 0.9% on top of that and it is simply an incredible deal. I was told FICO needs to be 710 min to qualify--but the dealer can appeal if you have a nice downpayment or co-signer. Also, a note about White Diamond Pearl. This color has been DISCONTINUED, although there are still a few cars on dealer lots. This is the color we wanted but, they only had the new white pearl, Orchid Pearl and we took it as the next closest dealer was +$640. The Orchid Pearl is a brighter white but still has that shimmery pearl coat look. Beautiful car, great deal, great dealer, great salesman. BTW, this is Scott's everyday price for March-no haggle. But why haggle when he blows the four Indy dealers out of the water? Go for it.
With places like Edmunds you are able to arm yourself with the best possible information out there for whichever model you choose to buy,it all just boils down to the dealer and researching dealer incentives available in your area. The bottom line is did you get the car you wanted and can you afford it?,if you answered yes to both then you have a good deal.
In the market for a sedan and test drove Accord (LX-P), Camry, Fusion and Sonata. I liked Accord best for handling and overall feel of quality, but it seems much noisier.
My question: reading the specs, I notice that in the EX trim level, there is Active Noise Cancellation (ANC). Does anyone know if this makes a real difference? I commute a lot on the highways so if this ANC make a real difference, I would go for EX, even though I do not care for the sunroof etc that comes with EX.
Also, is there any other difference in sound insulation between the EX and LX-P, e.g., does EX have extra sound proof liners?
I would not have a chance to test drive various trim levels on a highway due to the fact that Honda dealers near me are all far away from a highway.
To the best of my knowledge, active noise cancellation is offered in Honda's V6 vehicles. In cruise mode the 3 cylinders shut-off causing noise and hence the ANC. Accord are noisier due to firmer suspension and also maybe because of the tires. Sonata SE is noisier than GLS due to firmer suspension. Camry is the least noisy because it has the softest suspension of the three.
EX has the 190 hp, larger tires and better anti-sway bar and that in my opinion is worth the extra price.
I have shopping for a week in Indy and the best price I got quoted was from Chicago $22,750 (incl dest.). My question is, is this for real? If so, why are the local dealers not matching the price. The closest I've gotten is $23,200 :mad: . Thanks.
Well, he (scott) did not give a number, but said to buy from Chicago and could not meet the price.....I guess it's time to visit the inlaws this weekend.
When I bought my 2011 Accord EX-L Coupe without navigation and had an MSRP of $27855 for $23076,I called the other dealer I had worked with and was closer to home if they would match the deal and was told my deal was "quote" an eight hundred dollar loser the dealer is bluffing and he wasn't interested in making me that kind of deal. My point is make sure this dealer in Chicago faxes you an out an out the door price so you don't run into various fee's that don't make the drive worth while because any number south of 23 is extremely aggressive bordering on impossible so be careful and I hope you get what your looking for.Let us know how you make out,I'm very interested how this works out for you.
I returned to TLH a couple of days ago and had a nice 'after-the-deal' conversation with the CFO and recounted how pleased I was with the way they did business over the 'net'. They stated that they knew internet shoppers have "done their homework" and that they usually only get one chance to snag customers that may never walk into their shop so they get to the bottom line right out of the box. He didn't say it but, it was implied that you do not get that treatment in a FTF negotiation.
thanks for everyone on this forum. I was able to negotiate and buy A new 2011 Accord Ex Leather today in MA for
Selling Price : 22,700. Tax (6.25%) 1418 Doc 298 Registration & title : 125 Out the Door 24542.00 First Payment -420 O(Honda Loyalty.. honda will make 1st payment) Net 24,122.00
Hi! I have received internet quotes for the Honda LX P and SE. The quotes received are pretty high in comparison to some of the quotes that you guys have received. I'm located in St. Louis.
The best quotes received are: LX 19187 LX-P 20091 SE 20999
These quotes don't include admin fees or taxes.
Do I take the quote as the "starting offer" and press the dealer a little more?
Yes press the dealer a little bit lower. I was able to secure a deal for a Honda Accord LX-P for 19,500 (Car cost). I worked a couple of dealers against each other and got 20,800(out the door price). They will give you the guilt trip that they are loosing money, but I seriously doubt they are.
Congrats, City. Great car, isn't it? Please tell me your deal was on a 4 cyl?!
Also, if you don't mind, would you share your age and what drew you to the Accord (other than price)? I am interested in the demographic that is attracted to the current Accord model.
My dealer had one exactly like our spec (white pearl, V6, EX-L) with nav. I didn't have him quote on it but if you add the invoice price for the nav to our buy price you end up somewhere in the neighborhood of $27,200.
I haven't looked at your specifics but here's where I would start:
1. Look here on Edmonds for your exact invoice price. Know that the dealer still makes good money at this price. 2. Tell your salesman that you understand Honda has factory-to-dealer incentives for Accords this month and you'd like to see just how much it is.
Your dealer could easily sell it to you for invoice less factory incentive and make money (hold back, month end bonus etc). This would be a fair price for you to pay and still be below Edmonds TMV. The dealer could go lower but obviously, he wants to keep as much in his pocket as possible. Ask if they will throw anything else in on the deal--all accessories are dealer installed so they are very high margin. Ask about service deals--how about a couple of free oil changes. Keep asking for throw-ins. They won't be offended and they might even say yes. Just don't jerk them around if you're not ready to buy.
Comments
Thanks Again
My shopping experience showed me that dealers do not sell very many coupes and they are very willing to negotiate aggressively on them so if you want an accord coupe I wouldn't give up especially when you can get 0.90% right now,thats a very nice incentive.
i dont know how much room i can negotiate with dealer..
hellp.
first time car buyer
Thanks,
Jeannine
Corporate Communications
Edmunds.com
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Share your vehicle reviews
The internet contact is Andrew Gordon.
www.weymouthhonda.com
Sussman were great to deal with and I highly recommend Jim Russell,he knows his product line very well and was very cordial and not pushy in any way.
After the deal I did go back and purchase all weather floor mats and Jim helped me with those as well.
Great experience and I hope yours is as good as mine was.
I am first-time poster here and this looks like a great informative forum. I am currently considering buying a Honda accord 2007 VP model from a Honda dealership in San Francisco Bay Area. Since the vehicle is Honda certified pre-owned by the Honda dealership, do I need to have the car checked out by an independent mechanic for usual pre-purchase inspection considering it is a Honda certified car and has already gone through Honda inspection?
I ask this because decent car mechanic shops are usually closed on weekends, and weekend is the only time I find to make the car purchase. So even though I do not mind giving about $100 for pre-purchase inspection, I can not do it over the weekend (unless someone knows good honda mechanic open on sat/sun in south bay).
The car comes with 1-yr/12K non-powertrain limited warranty - is that supposed to buy some peace-of-mind or is it one of those marketing gimmick kind of warranties by the dealer that do not really address any real future issues with the car - for example, what if the starter breaks or hose starts leaking within 1 year - would dealer cover that or would he consider it normal wear-and-tear?
Dealer is asking close to 13.5K for the car - a good price?
thanks,
John
I've been looking at certified 2008 coupes EXL V6 with 30-60K miles and varying prices. I do pay close attention to any details in the Carfax, such as what's reported at time of certification, new tires, new brakes, 4 wheel alignment, new battery, etc.
I do wonder when shocks, struts should be evaluated.
I also ask to see service records and verify they apply to the correct VIN.
I, too, wonder how valuable/reliable this certification really is? I have no doubt some dealers adhere to this process better than others. I checked a few at Paragon Honda and wouldn't buy a car there with someone elses money!
I was looking at a Dodge pickup (certified) and the car fax showed an accident. I asked the dealer about it and he said there was no frame damage, so the vehicle could be certified.
Take that for what it's worth.
Good luck on your purchase.
Nothing beats a thorough inspection from your own mechanic to give you peace of mind and as far as paint work I would say that about seventy percent of all used cars have had some form of paint work on them or a bumper replaced that's just the nature of the beast when your looking at a used vehicle.
Carfax isn't a bad place to start but it can only tell you what's been reported to motor vehicles or insurance and thats it.
The bottom line is if your worried about paint,prior accidents, carfax and things like that then a few more bucks up front and buying new might make you sleep better and long after you drive off the lot that car will be in your drive way so by smart and sleep well.
Is it is good idea to negotiate the price before independent pre-purchase inspection (which a certified car should pass with flying colors), or afterward? First time buyer here.
Anyone has bought Honda from delaership in south bay (south bay honda, dublin honda, stevens creek honda)?
john
Are they supposed to do it that way? Probably not.. but, really, the only thing you gain by purchasing a certified car is the extended warranty. You have to assume any Honda dealership is going to treat their used cars the same way, as far as inspecting them for safety and wear items, whether they are certifying them, or not.
regards,
kyfdx
Edmunds Price Checker
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Though, as I noted.. if it's already out of warranty, you may be out of luck.
Check out this discussion: Honda Extended Warranties Pricing and Info
regards,
kyfdx
Edmunds Price Checker
Edmunds Lease Calculator
Did you get a good deal? Be sure to come back and share!
Edmunds Moderator
Is it a good idea to to negotiate the price on phone/email before going to the dealership to look at the car to finally purchase and testdrive, since a relatively new certified car usually drives fine and I do not expect test drive to reveal anything new?
Nothing wrong with going to look, then coming back another day to negotiate..... or, get the salesperson's email address while you are there the first time...
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Edmunds Lease Calculator
Did you get a good deal? Be sure to come back and share!
Edmunds Moderator
If you search out a particular model and year the information is out there to allow you to negotiate but first and foremost you need to select a car.
Take the vehicle to an independent mechanic he may find some things the dealer missed or didn't bother to check which could either make you question the purchase in the first place or negotiate a better price based on your out of pocket expenses for any necessary repairs.
Last but not least I very recently had a horrible experience over a CPO because I was in a hurry and the car was certified and still had factory warranty on it so I put my faith in the dealer that if there were problems I had warranty and "certified" backing me up,WRONG.
Don't negotiate what you haven't driven and taken to your mechanic or your wasting your time and like me never trust a CPO on face value.
Selling Price: $18,991
Tax: $1,329.37 (7%)
Doc: $249
Dmv: $299
Tire Tax: $7.50
Out The Door: $20,875.87
I also got quotes for other Honda Models
2011 Honda Accord LX was $19,900 out the door
2011 Honda Accord SE was $22,066.99 out the door
The best dealer prices in NJ were Rt 23 honda, Hudson Honda and RT22 Honda.
I expect that it is relatively easy to find incentives that last a month or more, but harder to find and publish something that lasts only a week. Or are these likely unrelated attempts to bring in business using the already documented incentive for March.
What are your thoughts and experiences?
Additionally, I have gotten different opinions as to whether there is a March Honda Loyalty Rebate that is not tied to financing. Has anyone received this in March?
Incentives change constantly and not just across the country but regionally as well check with Honda in your area as to what incentives are available and for the time frames for which there good for,be careful though because "dealer cash" doesn't necessarily have to be disclosed.
I did a google maps search for honda mechanics in the area but most shops are generic (quick lube kind of places servicing just about any car) and are not open on weekends.
Thank you
john
The bottom line is did you get the car you wanted and can you afford it?,if you answered yes to both then you have a good deal.
My question: reading the specs, I notice that in the EX trim level, there is Active Noise Cancellation (ANC). Does anyone know if this makes a real difference? I commute a lot on the highways so if this ANC make a real difference, I would go for EX, even though I do not care for the sunroof etc that comes with EX.
Also, is there any other difference in sound insulation between the EX and LX-P, e.g., does EX have extra sound proof liners?
I would not have a chance to test drive various trim levels on a highway due to the fact that Honda dealers near me are all far away from a highway.
Thanks for any comments!
EX has the 190 hp, larger tires and better anti-sway bar and that in my opinion is worth the extra price.
According to the specification,
http://automobiles.honda.com/accord-sedan/specifications.aspx?group=engineering
EX does have noise cancellation. I like to know if this make much of a difference.
As far as 190 hp is concern, I thought LX and EX both has a 2.4 engine, may be it the same engine but EX is tuned more for performance?
My point is make sure this dealer in Chicago faxes you an out an out the door price so you don't run into various fee's that don't make the drive worth while because any number south of 23 is extremely aggressive bordering on impossible so be careful and I hope you get what your looking for.Let us know how you make out,I'm very interested how this works out for you.
A new 2011 Accord Ex Leather today in MA for
Selling Price : 22,700.
Tax (6.25%) 1418
Doc 298
Registration & title : 125
Out the Door 24542.00
First Payment -420 O(Honda Loyalty.. honda will make 1st payment)
Net 24,122.00
The best quotes received are:
LX 19187
LX-P 20091
SE 20999
These quotes don't include admin fees or taxes.
Do I take the quote as the "starting offer" and press the dealer a little more?
Also, if you don't mind, would you share your age and what drew you to the Accord (other than price)? I am interested in the demographic that is attracted to the current Accord model.
1. Look here on Edmonds for your exact invoice price. Know that the dealer still makes good money at this price.
2. Tell your salesman that you understand Honda has factory-to-dealer incentives for Accords this month and you'd like to see just how much it is.
Your dealer could easily sell it to you for invoice less factory incentive and make money (hold back, month end bonus etc). This would be a fair price for you to pay and still be below Edmonds TMV. The dealer could go lower but obviously, he wants to keep as much in his pocket as possible. Ask if they will throw anything else in on the deal--all accessories are dealer installed so they are very high margin. Ask about service deals--how about a couple of free oil changes. Keep asking for throw-ins. They won't be offended and they might even say yes. Just don't jerk them around if you're not ready to buy.