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No one mentioned that Pat Goss is on Motorweek, he does a segment every week. I've seen pictures of Tom and Ray and see why they are not on TV . OT and going way back. I still hear way more Subaru owners calling than Honda owners.
OK, I give up. If you go back and look at the original post you will see where I got the quote...
I do not own a CR-V at the moment, but when I am in the market (probably 2009), I may well buy one. If so, I will listen to Honda's recommendations as to how to maintain the vehicle.
Others can listen to whomever they wish; it's a free country.
03-004
June 3, 2005
Applies To:
2002 CR-V 4WD With A/T - ALL England produced (VIN begins with SHS)
2003 CR-V 4WD EX With A/T - From VIN SHSRD788.3U100001 thru SHSRD78X.3U108790
2003 CR-V 4WD LX With A/T - From VIN SHSRD784.3U1 00001 thru SHSRD78X.3U108913
Vehicle Drifts to the Right
(Supersedes 03-004, dated January 21, 2003, to update the information indicated by the black bars)
SYMPTOM
The vehicle drifts or pulls to the right while driving at highway speeds.
PROBABLE CAUSE
The angle of the upper spring seat is incorrect.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Realign the damper spring on the upper spring seat.
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
In warranty:
The normal warranty applies.
Out of warranty:
Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
REPAIR PROCEDURE
1. Remove the damper unit from the vehicle (see page 18-21 of the 2002-04 CR-V Service Manual).
2. Position the upper bars of the strut spring compressor to press on an upper coil of the spring.
3. Compress the damper spring with the strut spring compressor according to the manufacturer's instructions.
4. Once the spring is compressed enough to relieve pressure, rotate the upper spring seat until the cutout is in the position shown below (approximately 35 degrees clockwise). You may need to apply an upward pressure to release the seat from the spring.
5. Slowly release the pressure from the strut spring compressor, and allow the spring to seat. Make sure the lower end of the spring remains aligned with the stops in the lower seat, the upper end stays in the grooves of the upper spring seat mounting cushion, and the bump stop is in the correct location.
6. Remove the damper assembly from the strut spring compressor.
7. Reinstall the damper unit on the vehicle.
8. Repeat steps 1 thru 7 for the other side.
9. After reinstalling both dampers, check the alignment of the vehicle.
10. Test-drive the vehicle to verify the drift is gone.
Were you able to repair or replace? I found the same fluid splash marks and smell of radiator fluid with my 97 CR-V.
Jeff B.
JJ
I later went to hondasuv.com and found an enormous amount of info regarding tech bulletins and explanations for noises, sounds etc for the CR-V. Turns out that the some (or all)of the noise may actaully be the front and rear brake pads shifting position slightly and striking the brake caliper when the wheel rotates ever so slightly after the transmission engages. It's normal. I also have a rattle that comes from the front passenger side. It turns out Honda had to follow through with a tech bulletin (which hondasuv.com had available to print) that will solve the problem. Something about clearance between the chassis and motor mount.
Check out that website.
i wonder if they are going to give you a break on servicing if it requires 15K changes.
I certainly wouldn't pay to change it ahead of time, unless it exhibits the symptoms..
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Did you noticed significant road noise reduction after you put the new Goodyear tires?
thanks,
dan
CRV is soooo loud, by all means!!
I've read about paying $500+ for "quiet" tires on the CRV...thing that I don't even had considered on my Camry...
I also read about CRV doors lined with dynamat extreme. I guess all the CRV's need MUCH better soundproofing before changing the tires.
Anyone out there applied any kind of soundproofing that significantly reduced the noise level??
"Better" tires do really diminish the road noise perceived in the cabin??
Thanks,
Dann
CRV is soooo loud, by all means!!
I've read about paying $500+ for "quiet" tires on the CRV...thing that I don't even had considered on my Camry...
I also read about CRV doors lined with dynamat extreme. I guess all the CRV's need MUCH better soundproofing before changing the tires.
Anyone out there applied any kind of soundproofing that significantly reduced the noise level??
"Better" tires do really diminish the road noise perceived in the cabin??
Thanks,
Dann
Drive an Accord and it will be queter too. CR-V is an entry level SUV, and as such, corner had to be cut to meet the price restrictions. Just think about it, CR-V and Accord are priced very close to each other when comparably equipped (EX to EX, LX to LX), but CR-V offer AWD and more room.
I think Accord comes with Michelin tires, there is your $500 right there. What are the OEM tires on the Camry? Try those on the CR-V and see if it quiets it down.
I got Futura tires from PepBoys (made by Cooper) and they are considerably queter than the Dueler H/T.
Tires will be one of the noise factors...thing is that if car has not enough soundproofing, nothing will damp the road noise, not even a $500 set of tires.
Although I bought the CRV almost new, I am VERY disappointed from this p.o.v. All those safety features, utility and powertrain performance of the CRV are shadowed by the poor-soundproofing aspect.
I drove a RAV4 ( 4WD), and it was much, much quieter then my 2WD CRV. Not to mention the Highlander ( 4 cyl) -smooth as a breeze.
Unless road has black top, I am trying to stay away from driving the CRV on other surface...that's how noisy it is :mad:
I was hopping that some sort of aftermarket coating or soundproofing stuff creamed into the doors will help. Anyone aware of it, please let me know.
Mine still pulls to the right even after I brought it in for maybe 4th time?
SOOOO Frustrating especially since Iam not friendly with the service departrment.
They just rotated front right to left and front left to right. They said problem fixed.
I CANT TAKE IT ANYMORE.
To the poster who linked the TSBs, thanks...
its frustrating when they just rotate the 2 front wheels and say its better. AND ITS NOT :mad:
If you live in the snow belt (I assume you don't since you have a 2WD CR-V) you can get the car undercoated by one of those really greasy rustproofing sprays. It will deaden the sound and probably add 50 lbs to the vehicle. It will make a mess on your driveway in the summer as it melts away. And Honda generally does not recommend it, as it plugs up the drains at the bottom of the vehicle, such as sunroof and A/C condeser drains.
There is a big dfifference between Honda and Toyota in the way they approach driving dynamics. Toyotas are like Buick, lesurly, soft, and generally dosconnected from the road. Honda, on the other hand, draws a lot from its Formula 1 heritage, and believes that isolating the driver from the road is wrong. Driver should be involved in driving, and be one with the vehicle, rather than just an outside observer.
The driving preferences are normally sorted out during a test drive, people who prefer being isolated usually run across the street to Toyota to be cuddled in the isolation. People who prefer being involved and knowing exactly what the vehicle is doing, run from Toyota to Honda or BMW.
Thanks for your in-depth analysis of the 2 manufacturer philosophies. It is very interesting... and I am glad I can share/ drive them both
That has to do with people thinking that AWD/4WD makes them invinsible to the laws of physics.
AWD/4WD only helps you get going, when one or two wheels may have limited traction. 4 wheels with limited traction are better than 2 wheels with limited traction. Once going, AWD/4WD, especially in the CR-V's Real Time AWD set up has no effect.
Regardless of AWD/4WD braking and steering is still done by the same 4 and 2 wheels respectivley, so AWD/4WD does not help someone who is going way too fast for the conditions, or is not paying attention 100% of the time and then tries to compensate with steering or brakes, when traction is limited.
CRV is a Civic car- platform on steroids, NOT A TRUCK.
As long as Honda does not build 4WD Civics and as long as Civics run OK on the wintery slushy roads, I didn't find any reason to buy a 4WD CRV.
I went to Europe, seen the CRV's over there, none of them were 4WD. But they're manual DIESELS most of them And they have a hell of winters over there compared to Michigan.
4WD's on small car based SUV's only is marketing indoctrination for non-aware and non conscious drivers. As my friends over the pond tells me: how can you call yourself a driver by driving auto transmission???
I ran my 2003 through a very muddy south road coming out of Chaco Canyon in NM a couple of years ago. The RT4WD was kicking in constantly. A Civic would have been left at the first mud hole, churning helplessly. And it was 40 miles to the nearest tow truck, with no cell phone towers in sight. One has to drive carefully in such situations; the CR-V cannot lock the rear differential (and does not have limited slip), so some speed is necessary to avoid sticking in the mud. I should have gotten a picture of the CR-V the next day; it was covered in mud, all the way over the roof. There wasn't a clean part of the vehicle anywhere.
BTW, it scared the you-know-what out of my family, and I probably would go around the long way if I had to do it over. But then the northern route had 6 inches of water in the arroyo that the road went through when we entered the park, and might have been over a foot with the rain we encountered at Chaco. But I think I would have still tried it.
Other than that situation, I have had the RT4WD kick in when going through 4 inches of water (ON the main highway :surprise: ) in Carlsbad, NM, and while driving in Yosemite National Park during icy conditions. Plus the occasional RT4WD use during rainy conditions in SoCal (but not often - it hasn't rained a whole lot the past few years).
RT4WD isn't for constant use, but it does the job in those "temporary" situations.
Honda actually does build AWD Civics, they just don't sell them in the US. CR-V smaller brother HR-V is also available else where.
Honda used to sell AWD Civics in the US from 1985 through 1989, they were sold as Civic Wagon AWD, which in reality was THE predecessor to the CR-V.
Carol19
Carol19
If whoever installed the wheels did not torque them properly, using torque wrench (not torque sticks which are inaccurate) to 80 lbs, or torqued them unevenly, it will cause the rotor to warp from uneven/incorrect pressure on the rotor hat.
If whoever installed wheels used impact driver to put the lug nuts on, no turning will help, you will need to get new rotors.
Also, let go of the brakes after the vehicle stopped. This way the rotors don't develop heat spots where the brake pads are pressed against heated rotor for prolonged period of time (like wiating at a light). The rest of the rotor cools off, while the area covered by the pads is still hot. This can cause the rotor to warp as well.
1) It shouldn't rub if you are running on stock sized tires and stock suspension.
2) If you have different size rim/tires or modified suspension see 1.
Car still in warranty...went to the dealer...said it's "normal" for all GEN2. It's actually annoying. Too many clicks...like there's something's cracking inside every time I take a turn or stop.Cheap thing feeling.... :lemon: Anyone else encountering this?
thanks
So, it has been rubbing for the last 5 years, and you never had the dealer look at it while the vehicle was under warranty?
Car still in warranty...went to the dealer...said it's "normal" for all GEN2. It's actually annoying. Too many clicks...like there's something's cracking inside every time I take a turn or stop.Cheap thing feeling.... Anyone else encountering this?
thanks
The click click click when you turn the steering wheel with the turn signal enagaged is the automatic turn signal cancel mechanism.
The clicking from the steering column when you slow down is lock out solenoid. It prevents you from shifting into R while the car is forward motion. Manual's don't have it, but Honda feels that auto drivers would not know that you can damage the transmission by shifting into Reverse while in forward motion. Or perhaps there has been an incident that resulted in litigation, hence the lock out solenoid.
You are welcome.
The noises will subside as the parts wear in/out with time and use. For now, just crank up the radio...
Honda has never been known to be a quiet vehicle. Toyota and Buick are, but not Honda. The intent is for the driver to be an active participant in driving, instead of the casual spectator. Some like that, some don't. Tha is why we have many varieties...
My right rear sliders froze last spring after winter season. Honda recommends lubricating all the moving parts with Molykote-77 for people in the snow areas.
I bought a tub of Molykote-77 for like $4 from Honda. It has enough grease to do thousands of cars.
Is that how it is done.
thanks
Is that how it is done.
thanks
You reach it from the back of the HVAC controller unit. Remove the radio following Sub, XM, or Changer installation instructions on www.handa-accessories.com (site sponsor) then remove the HVAC controller. The bulbs are mounted on the back of the PCB.
If you think you are going to be doing a lot of DIY on this vehicle, invest in a Helms manual.
Impact was though. After a minute I felt that car is acting like one of its tires blew out. I stopped on the shoulder and checked the underneath of the CRV and its tires, but nothing wrong. I was able to continue driving home, where I did a thoroughly check and still could not find any “visible” signs of the impact. Next day, soon as I was on the highway driving 70mph, the CRV started to act the same way. No vibration, just a loud wobbling sound, like driving with a flat tire. I slow down to 55 mph, continuing driving, and after a minute the wobbling disappeared. I accelerated back to 70-75 mph, and everything was OK, cruising at 75-80 mpg for an hour.
Yesterday, soon as I was on the highway, I had the same problem at70 mph. Now that I cannot see any visible damage, I am thinking that around 70 mph speed one of the tires had been internally damaged on the impact and is getting into the wobbling resonance/vibration mode. But still why is this disappearing soon as I slow down, and does not reoccur when driving high speeds again?
Tires are Kumho, in good condition, drove with them since I’ve purchased the car, same highway, same speed , tire pressure 30, never had a problem. It all started after that impact with the piece of tire.
I find it pretty odd with all the logicality I’m coming up
Please advise if you could.
Thanks in advance,
Dan
PS My CRV is a 2005 , 2WD, 14K miles.
in my case it only happens the first time I am reaching 70 on highway.
thanks for your input, anyway
dan