Hyundai Sonata Maintenance and Repair

haefr · October 2005

Hyundai automatics are programmed to revert to 3rd gear as a "limp home" failsafe mode in the event of internal hydraulic problems. You need to get your car to a Hyundai dealer's service department to have any stored transmission control module fault codes read to help diagnose the actual problem.

haefr · October 2005

To expand on what you noted, the following major emissions control devices are covered under the Federal 8 yr./80,000 mile warranty:

Catalytic Converter
Engine Control Module
Onboard Emission Diagnostic Device

According to the warranty supplement booklet, which hardly anyone ever bothers cracking let alone reading, "...major emission control components listed under the ... '8 Year/80,000 Mile Emission Warranty Parts List' [see above reference] will be covered for a period of 8 years from the date of original retail delivery or date of first use, or 80,000 miles, whichever occurs first. This warranty coverage applies to the vehicle regardless of a change in ownership and is transferable to subsequent owners. [emphasis mine]"

Sadly, there are some dealers (regardless of make) which will charge the customer full bore and then turn around and bill the manufacturer for repairs done under warranty - "double dipping".

zlfanatic · October 2005

I just got off the phone with Hyundai customer service and she said because I am the second owner of the vehicle it only has 5 yr 60000 mile warranty and the converters are not covered because I have 65000 miles on the vehicle. :mad:

zlfanatic · October 2005

I called Hyundai again because I was not happy with the first lady I spoke with. Terry the second lady, took my vin number and asked me what was wrong, I told here the dealer said i needed my cats replaced and it wasnt under warranty because i was the second owner. Well, it turns out they are covered under the Federal Emission Control Warranty Statement, so Terry called the dealer and we are ordering the parts as I type. I know the dealer had to know about this, and you wonder why people hate the dealership.

haefr · October 2005

Good for you! (and, no, I don't wonder at all why people hold car stealerships in low regard)

gmctruck · October 2005

Your brake pedal should not touch the floor!! If it does, then something is wrong. Either you have air in the brake lines or the brake fluid level is low. If your brake pedal is actually going down to the floor, then you should have the brake system checked out ASAP.

gmctruck · October 2005

Good deal...! Sometimes being persistent works in your favor.

mti · October 2005

"The engine occasionally makes a pretty noticeable tapping noise, almost like a diesel (well, maybe not THAT loud, but it's pretty noticeable)."

YES! I definitely experience that noise with my '06 GL and I've been commenting about it for a couple of months, including 2 posts in the main Sonata board. Mine's not occasional though, it's noisy every time and I think it might be the worst when the engine is cold. I have described it as like a mild diesel noise.

I've been meaning to thank you for your nit-picky post last week; it's nice to know that I'm not the only Sonata owner who's super-critical. And I, like you, naturally see all these defects without resorting to all the inspection aides some wise guy rattled off in his post.

And the guy who thinks all these defects are to be expected and tolerated because the car costs less than $20K must have a money tree in his yard because he obviously has more money and lower expectations than I do.

mti · October 2005

I forgot to mention that the engine noise only occurs under load. As soon as
I lift off the pedal, the noise stops and the engine is quiet. I can even hear an interruption in the noise during the 1-2 shift because the tranny is that slow in executing this shift (another of my complaints).

jpryba · October 2005

I'm nit-picky, but I can be realistic as well. I'm still quite impressed with my Sonata.

I've noticed in colder weather (around 60 and below) that the "mild diesel" noise with the 4 cylinder is pretty constant when at idle, but I can only hear it when I have the windows rolled down a little or someone opens the door. My last Hyundai, an Elantra, would make similar noises as well in this type of weather. I think it might have something to do with the belts. It's probably harmless.

I was driving around tonight and my passenger also noticed all the noises coming from the rear end at lower speeds (in parking lots and going over speed bumps mainly). Why is it that we (the end users) are noticing these sounds when Hyundai spent all this time and money doing R&D that should have caught it during cooler-weather testing to begin with? Really, Hyundai can give me some cars to test out if they want (I can dream, right?), and I will help them find out the issues that their engineers apparently can't find with all the sophisticated and expensive equipment they must have at hand. Of course, issues with real world testing isn't something that's exclusive to Hyundai. We've seen plenty of other first year issues rise up with Honda, Toyota, GM, Ford, etc... you name it. At the same time, some of these issues seem so painfully obvious that perhaps the only possible explanation is that the supplier messed up the parts AFTER the prototypes were tested out. Or we just simply attribute it to the bean counters...

Anyway, enough of my rant -- although I think it's justified after reading some articles about Hyundai's chairman being really obsessed with quality. I suppose I'm allowed to be somewhat obsessed as well as someone who is driving the finished product, right? :P

fezzy · October 2005

Well your vibration can be caused by misfire like the dealer said. The cause can be bad wires or bad plugs. You can normally check your plugs by removing them and looking at how they are burning. If they are burning out quick they may be burning too hot (Use a different plug). I was told about this trick for checking the wires. Go somewhere real dark and brink along a spray bottle with water in it. With your car running mist the water over the wires and you should see the wires arc out if they are bad. (it works).

The tensioner is not adjustable it's the pressure tip on it that could be bad. If your belt slipped a teeth or two your car would probably not run. Is your service engine light on. A misfire normally turns that light on.

fezzy · October 2005

The tapping noise sounds like an octane issue with the gas. Try filling up at another station and seeing if the noise happens again. If it does, don't give up. When you get down to about a half tank fill up with premium. This increases your octane to about 88-90 depending on where you live and octane grades. If the knocking becomes less noticeable you may have a failing knock sensor

haefr · October 2005

The timing belt uses an autotensioner that compensates for time-related belt stretch. "Genuine" Hyundai sparkplugs are NGK - you could've saved yourself about $10.00/plug going to Pep Boys, Auto Zone, Advance Auto, O'Reilley's, etc. Another thing to note is that if you have the 2.5/2.7L V6, Hyundai's very specific about how the plug wires are routed. The fact that cylinders 2,4, & 6 are all on the same bank makes me wonder whether you inadvertently swapped the routing. You can access the routing diagram which shows which wires are to be "snapped" into which plastic channels in the online shop manual at Hyundai WebTech. (Next time let us know your car's model year. Since this is a learning discussion that benefits ALL members, I feel the answers should be posted to the discussion, not emailed directly.)

ezletzpla · October 2005

Hi, I have a sonata 2004 gls and have had problems this past week probably of my own doing. I was doing the simple task of putting in a new stereo system. It was working fine and then it just shut off all of a sudden. The problem was (out of all the wires to come uncrimpped) the power wire came uncrimpped and I assumed blew a fuse somewhere. After going through the fuses I was unable to find one blown. However, I did notice the clock and keyless entry remotes did not work and the trunk open light on the dash is always lit up. Any guesses at what the problem(s) is/are would be a great help. Another question is should i just throw the original radio back in it and take it to the dealership if it is still covered by warranty. It has 40,000 miles on it and is a 04. I actually have two warrenties on it b/c I bought the car from hertz auto, so they gave me a yr warrenty and said the dealers warranty is still valid. One last question is how hard is it to get something fixed under warranty? Will it cost me anything? How long does it take?(i know it depends on what is wrong). Thanks for your time and your help. ES

ezletzpla · October 2005

From reading the form, I guess I'll unplug the battery for a couple minutes and see if that resets anything.

fezzy · October 2005

The routing of the wires should not make a difference as long as they are connected to the correct cylinder in regards to firing order. The wires are design to carry current only. Being specific to routing only keeps the wires from being damaged. Current can only be directed using a rail that is isolated or it will run array.

fezzy · October 2005

it may but i doubt it. make sure that all of your wires are ok and than change out the fuses that are marked for the items that you said are not working. The fuse may be blown and you can see it. I doubt that any of the wires are scorched because the fuse are quick blow and should blow at any sign of electrical danger thus preventing wire melt down. If this does not work put back the old radio and see what happens. The radio may in some way act as a ground and completes the circuit.

sonata1 · October 2005

Greetings everyone. I was wondering if there are any of you out there who are doing your own oil changes. I have a 2003 LX 2.7 litre V-6 sonata and I am considering doing my own oil changes as my dealership charges 30 bucks for oil change. For those who have done the oil changes themselves, I have several questions. 1. What Oil are you using? Brand and Grade. (I am in New England).
2. Has the trouble of doing your own changes been worth the savings? In other words is the sonata anymore troublesome to change oil for then other cars like the accord or camry. 3. What brand of oil filter are you using? If anyone has recommendations regarding what the best brand of filter and oil is. It would be very much appreciated.
Thank You :shades:

haefr · October 2005

"The routing of the wires should not make a difference as long as they are connected to the correct cylinder in regards to firing order. The wires are design to carry current only. Being specific to routing only keeps the wires from being damaged. Current can only be directed using a rail that is isolated or it will run array."

Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge, fezzy. It's always good to be corrected by someone who's better informed. In consideration of your taking the time and trouble to share your expertise, I've ripped out page 14 of the "Engine Electrical System" section of my copy of the 2003 Hyundai Sonata Shop Manual since the following section obviously doesn't apply:

"Improper arrangement of the spark plug cables will induce voltage between the cables, causing misfiring (and surging of acceleration in high-speed operation). Therefore, be careful to arrange the spark plug cables properly as shown in the illustration."

I'm sure Hyundai would appreciate your dropping a line to them, too, so they can correct the erroneous information printed in their service manuals. Thanks again.

haefr · October 2005

I have a 2003 Sonata GL with the 2.7L V6. (Close enough?) Your owner's manual specifies 5W-30 or 5W-40 viscosity engine oil for temperatures ranging from below -20 degrees F. to +95 degrees F. In my area (southern California) I use 10W-30 motor oil which covers the temperature range of -9 degrees F. to above +100 degrees F. My current motor oil brand is Conoco "TropArtic Synthetic Blend" - about $1.28/quart at Wally-Mart. If you're a novice with oil drain maintenance, drive the car several miles first to warm the oil to operating temperature, and get any particulates in the bottom of the pan in suspension to assure best drainage. The drain plug is generally easy to access (faces rearward), but will require either jacking the front end up (always very dangerous to depend on a tire-changing jack when working underneath - your first mistake is your last), or, preferably, a set of ramps that you can drive up on. (~$25.00 - $30.00 at any autoparts department) Hyundai oil filters from the dealers are EXCELLENT in design and construction. Having said that, I don't use 'em. The Purolator "Premium Plus" L14459 is a very well made alternative and less costly. (~$3.00 at Pep Boys). For a buck more you can get the even fancier Purolator "PureONE" in metallic blue with the orange gaskets. Supposedly it's better, but the cheaper models fully meet OEM specs so I don't bother. Pep Boys own brand, "ProLine", avaialble with the same number, is made by Purolator, too, and about 50 cents cheaper than the Purolator-branded model. I've also used the Wally-Mart "SuperTech" 3593A with good results.* The V6 has its oil filter VERY conveniently located right at the front of the engine as you crawl under the front of the car.** If your current oil filter is a genuine Hyundai filter, it'll be a medium blue painted "can" mounted horizontally to a cast aluminum extension mounted to the bottom of the aluminum engine block with plenty of working room to use any commonly available metal-strap oil filter wrench. It will seep some oil when loosened, so place your oil catch pan right underneath it first to catch the dribble. The good news is with the car on ramps, the closed end of the screw-on filter will be pointing slightly up, so the can will not be deluged with oil - makes for an easy, dry removal. Once the filter is removed, it'll still have some oil in it - I just upend it over the catch pan and let it drain in with the already drained oil. Once it quits dripping, a quick turn upside down (putting the mounting hole "up") will allow you to set it down somewhere until you can deal with it permanently. Have a few paper towels or rags handy for cleanup during all this. I drain the sump first, wearing an old glove for burn protection, replace the plug, then move on to the filter - which by that time has cooled enough not to be a problem. The plug as a compressible soft metal sealing washer that's supposed to be replaced at each oil change. In 44 years of doing my own maintenance I've NEVER had an oil leak result from re-using the original washers. Do as you feel best. Refilling can be messy if you don't first remove that ridiculous plastic shroud all manufacturers seem to believe we're really impressed with. Mine's currently leaning against the garage wall semi-permanently - it'll be remounted just before I eventually trade or sell the car. (But, then, I've never been offended by the appearance of a bare-naked automobile engine...) You'll need a 10mm socket on a small ratchet to remove the four screws holding the shroud in place. You'll also need to remove the oil filler cap first in order to lift the shroud off. When refilling, you'll still need a medium-sized funnel to avoid spilling oil on the valve cover when you refill. (Ironic isn't it - oiled human bodies are sexy, but oil all over an engine is just messy...) If all this sounds complicated, it really isn't. It becomes very self-evident as you look at the layout. So, do the math - 5 qts. of oil ($6.40) plus a $2.49 Proline oil filter plus about 30 minutes of my time ($0) = $6.89. Keep in mind that the "Gypie Lubes" and auto stealerships get their materials for less than I do. Lotsa profit potential in the convenience of "professional" oil changes.

*Wally-Mart's in-store index lists the SuperTech number 6706 as the proper oil filter for Hyundais of that vintagage. That's actually a filter designation applying to Hondas, and generally would be correct. BUT, in 2003, Honda's available space with certain engines necessitated a MUCH physically smaller, tricycle-sized oil filter, the 6706, than previous years for Hondas. For your Hyundai Sonata V6, IGNORE the Wally-Mart recommendation and buy the 3593A if you choose one of their filters.

**BUT, there's a plastic air-flow piece that requires getting your hand uncomfortably close to the hot front exhaust pipe unless you remove that plastic piecd first. It's held on with three screws that take a 10mm socket so the piece will fall away. Once off, you'll have all the room you need to work in without risking a burn.

jnt · October 2005

You may want to search again for the Fuse that being shared for radio, Keyless entry module, and may be body computer that controls the lighting of the car. Some cars have Fuse boxes in numerous locations : in glove box, under hood, side of the glove box,... Better check your user manual again.

Sometime, they do not label the shared fuse.

What probably happened was your power wire touched radio chassis Ground and blow the fuse. Another possible cause is you may still have the short after putting the new radio in. So take the new radio out to see if the other modules working.
Another question: are you sure you wired the new radio correctly?

jt

goober2432 · October 2005

calm down guys....the placement of the wires is in accordance witht the hyuandai manual.....they have been on there for about 10000 miles and were installed by the dealer....i cannot stress enought that this wasn't happening until THEY DID THE TIMING BELT!!!!....on further reflection what are the ONLY things that cylinder 2,4,6 have in common? on a DOHC motor all the valves and timing for the back cylinders are controlled by the back camshaft! if that one shaft is off one tooth,. the car will still run...i am also aware that i could have bought NGK plugs at pep boys but, i bought the dealer plugs so they could see that i did use what they told me to so i can make a point when i take it back tomorrow....any other ideas are welcome!

haefr · October 2005

Not to belabor a point, but the "back" (firewall) cylinders in the V6 in Hyundai parlance are numbered 1, 3, & 5. According to the diagram in my shop manual, the "front" (towards the radiator) cylinders, and identified by the oil filler cap location, are the cylinders numbered 2, 4, & 6. (Hope ya' didn't replace the wrong set of spark plugs...) But, you're right - if the dealership's brainiacs mis-timed an exhaust camshaft on either bank during the timing belt replacement, you'd have problems. Good luck with your forray back to the service department tomorrow.

goober2432 · October 2005

you are right about the numbering of the cylinders....i messed up when i was typing....i replace ALL 6 plugs the other night so that is no longer an issue....thank you

ezletzpla · October 2005

For anyone with the same problem, I looked at the wiring diagram from Hyundai service site and determined it was probably the #24 fuse in the panel just below the steering wheel towards the door. The fuse looked okay but following the advice of others I pulled another 10A fuse and switched it with #24 and everything worked. Thanks for the help. ES

fezzy · October 2005

It's pretty nice to see that you have a manual. But I am not here to argue about wire placement. Better yet, working for Hyundai for 4 yours didn't help. I better call the electric company and have them to move those cables from the sky the wind may make them misfire. As I define a word from your quote "Induce" means to cause, stimulate, provoke.

"Improper arrangement of the spark plug cables will induce voltage between the cables, causing misfiring (and surging of acceleration in high-speed operation). Therefore, be careful to arrange the spark plug cables properly as shown in the illustration."

This happens when your wires are bad. Basic physics tells you that metal is a conductor of electricity. With this being the case having your wires next to your car may induce voltage between your engine and wires. Wires are shielded in order to prevent misfiring. Aligning them neatly as they were in the beginning makes them easier to work with and neat.

haefr · October 2005

Argue with Hyundai.

goober2432 · October 2005

you guys really need to stop with the wire thing......j/k....Problem fixed....the back cam was one tooth retarted and the front cam was 2 teeth advanced....also the idiot that did the belt didn't replace the timing tensioner as he said he did...."it was too hard to get too" the other tech showed me....the idiot loosened the bolt but couldn't get it out so he said o well and put it back together....forgot to tighten the bolt!!!! I got charged 80 bucks for a part I didn't even get at the time!!!! Needless to say they replaced the part...put a new timing belt on and refunded me the money for the plugs and labor from my previous visit....they also fired the guy on the spot....what an idiot...thank you all for you help!!!

sonata01 · October 2005

to: ornithomimus
I posted a similar message in early September. I have a 2001 V-6 with the same problem that you mentioned. My radio turns on and off without me touching any buttons. I missed your posting, and the reply from "lastwraith". I just put in a new battery, because mine tested weak and since winter is coming ..... For the next two days my radio was "normal". Just today it started its thing again. I haven't done anything else to troubleshoot it. A friend tells me I have a short in it???
I haven't tried to get behind the dash, which may be impossible without alot of work, to see if I can notice anything. Have you resolved your problem, and if so, please post what was done to correct it. I will certainly post my findings, if I have any luck !!!

rammer1 · November 2005

Did you ever find out the problem with your car??? My 2001 is having the same problem. If you could help it would be great.

tra2883 · November 2005

I was having some minor intermittent problems with the keyless entry system on my '02 Sonata, 4-cylinder, so I decided to try buying a new key fob and programming it myself. I have the instructions that I received from the person I bought the fob from, but I'm still having some trouble.

I've found the Central Locking Signal Control Module behind the climate control panel in the dash, and there's supposedly a "set/off" toggle switch on the Module, but I haven't been able to find it from feeling around with my hand. Does anybody know anything more about the programming process for my car? Can anyone give me a hint as so where I would find the "set/off" toggle switch?

Thanks for any help!

haefr · November 2005

How did you remove the vertical console fascia piece? My '03 Sonata Shop Manual only states to pry it off with a screwdriver blade, but I have no idea how or where to apply pressure without damaging the dash padding and/or the fascia piece, itself.

tra2883 · November 2005

It was actually really easy... I opened up the ashtray and started prying it off at the bottom, and then i worked my way up. It came off quite easily, and there was no damage. I've taken it off twice now.

haefr · November 2005

Thanks. Was this just with finger pressure or did you need some "help"?

zlfanatic · November 2005

I got our car back from Hyundai last week and it seemed to run fine with no check engine light on. The very next day, in traffic no less, the car started bucking and sputtering and then finally died, man was I pissed, and of course the service department wasn't open on saturday. We finally managed to get the car home with it running like crap. I run a code scan on it and it turns to be a crankshaft position sensor, no parts place has these in stock so I am waiting for that to come in. It almost seems as if Hyundai is sabotaging our car. Anyone else had this problem.

rjeffreys · November 2005

Just curious if anyone is using Bosch plugs in a Hyundai? I just had a pretty bad experience with a dealer because I had installed Bosch plugs. They said that Bosch plugs were never to be used in a Hyundai as they caused misfiring. (It turns out my problem was a bad plug wire, but they insisted on changing the brand new Bosch platinum plugs I had just installed with theirs for $340) Other Hyundai dealers I've contacted tell me the same thing, but I can't find any independent mechanic that's ever heard of such a problem. I've contacted Bosch and they tell me it's hogwash. Anyone familiar with Bosch plugs causing a problem in Hyundais? Thanks.

bhmr59 · November 2005

Not familiar with Bosch Plugs in a Hyundai, but they were a problem with my '71 Volvo which I bought new. Haven't used them in any car since.

benf9945 · November 2005

Did you programmed Hyunday Sonata 2002 keyless remote?
Please send instructions.
Ben
bfrenkel@comcast.net

fisher5 · November 2005

I am having the same problem with my 2001 Sonata. Did you ever find out where the sensor was to replace it.

tra2883 · November 2005

Sorry it took me so long to reply. I used a flat head screwdriver, and had no trouble taking it off.

tra2883 · November 2005

Still trying to get the right instructions. The instructions I got said to remove the radio/climate control bezel, and on the left-hand side, kind of behind the ashtray, is a black box. There is a switch on the box that should be in the "off" position, then turn on the ignition. Wait 5 seconds, then flip the switch to the "set" position and press the LOCK button on the remote you want to program. Flip the switch on the box to the "off" position again, and you're all set. My only problem is that I can't find the set/off switch on the box. If you have any luck, please let me know!!

fisher5 · November 2005

Not yet. We bought the sensor and got the tech at the dealership to tell me it was an easy job. But when I went to pick up the part the techs were to busy to show me.

If I find out I will let you know.

russincincy · November 2005

If your fog lights are the same as my 2002 Sonata, which I'm sure they are, then your need to get underneath the car, and remove a plastic cover with 2 screws, unscrew the fog light and replace the bulb. If you can't get the screws undone, the just pull it down like I had to, it is somewhat flexible. The number for the bulb is 9006. There is a new generic bulb at Auto Zone for $7.99. Hope this helps.

benetlyne · November 2005

NOPE i'm sick of that car they changed sensors, plugs, wires, filters, MAF, and still the dumb [non-permissible content removed] cant find the problem but me i have to pay. I'm getting another car i've had it with Hyundai going back to American car or Honda and that's it. Sorry but enough is enough. In the mean time if anyone find the problem let me know. :lemon: :mad:

Ben

dimaofnj · November 2005

Recently, a computer revealed that my crank sensor is not working. My car exceeded warranty and this job costs about $300, but the part itself costs just $85.

Does anyone with a knowledge of Hyundai engines know how difficult this job really is? I know a mechanic in my neighborhood who would charge less, but I doubt he has much experience with Hyundai... is changing a crank sensor really complex or fairly simple?

FYI: the car has 78,000 miles. It recently started getting stuck at 3,000 RPMs (Check Engine was NOT on). I took it to the dealership and did a transmission fluid change maintenence, and a couple days later the car is running far worse and the check engine light is on.

egarcia52282 · November 2005

Does anybody know where the amplifier for the 2006 Sonata LX (with 6-CD Changer, Subwoofer, and Amplifier) is located?

Thanks.

zlfanatic · November 2005

I recently chenaged my crank sensor on my 2001 Sonata, actually I have a new one unopened in its box, I had to order two because the first one took a week to get here, so I overnighted the other one.
Mine is a V6 and it was not fun to change, it is located beside the front exhaust manifold. I removed the two electric fans and the hook for engine removal so I had a little more room, a few skinned nuckles later and it was installed.
Good luck, Dave.

vsg1 · November 2005

sonata gold 2003 4 cyl, done 50,000 trouble free k.m's, stalled suddenly on the highway, wouldnt start,towed to a local garage, to find out Timing belt by BANDO without teeth but belt intact, residue of the belt cracked the crank sensor,sensor replaced, had to replace all belts as a precautionary practice,removed one engine foundation to access the sensor, timing marks on both the cam pulleys aligned with the master marks,both ignition coils replaced, re-assembled,now the engine starts,fires perfectly but ONLY NOW creates a HUMMING/VIBRATION between 2500 & 4000 R.P.M., CAN ANY ONE THROW SOME LIGHT HERE, thank you.

dimaofnj · November 2005

Dave,
What's the brand/price of your extra crank sensor? If you're interested, I may be able to take it off your hands...

Dmitry

Karen_S · November 2005

Just a reminder, buying/selling is not permitted in the Forums.

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