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If you have to change plugs and wires, ONLY USE AC DELCO. I've read stories of numerous folks who used NGK or Bosch, only to have recurring problems that went away when the AC Delco plugs and wires were used...
--Robert
touchton, "Transmission Traumas?" #460, 31 Aug 2000 4:19 pm
if I have like an engine surge, I belive I have also heard some popping noise coming from the front of the car, either that, or I'm going nuts here.
Thanks,
Javi.
Clean the throttle body?
From the passenger fender to the driver's looking to the coil pack:
67418325 (cylinder #'s)
I changed my plugs/wires/coils about a year ago (30k miles) and yesterday, I just found out I had 7 and 5 backwards!!! The car always ran fine. Drove to Orlando to Ft. Lauderdale at least 6 times all at high speeds. Then on a simple slurpee run, the car stumbled and ran horribly. Idle shook bad and had no power/bogged. Made it home, pulled the plugs. Cylinder 7's spark plug had carbon black stuff over the platinum tips. Changed plugs, still ran bad. I thought about the coil order, found a pic off ebay with the coil pack and cylinder numbers on top. Gave it and try and BAM! Car the runs the best it has in the 2 years I've had it.
Just I thought, lol...
What puzzles me is what does the starter solenoid have to do with "blower stays on after I turn off the engine"? Is it the HVAC blower or the radiator cooling fan(s)? Either way, indicting the starter solenoid is a stretch.
Les
Do I need to replace these items? What happens if I don't? Can I replace these items myself? The car is running fine.
Needless to say, I'm not happy at the prospect of spending this much money on a problem I wouldn't even know about if it weren't for the engine light.
Any advice or suggestions would be appreciated.
Aurora has developed a shimmy or body roll at 50mph + on rough pavement. New struts in front and newer rear shocks.
What other suspension parts could be failing to result in this unsettling motion? Thanks
Are the air shocks in the rear still working, or disconnected?
--Robert
2018 VW Passat SE w/tech, 2016 Audi Q5 Premium Plus w/tech, 2006 Acura TL w/nav
2018 VW Passat SE w/tech, 2016 Audi Q5 Premium Plus w/tech, 2006 Acura TL w/nav
I'm not sure how that works, but for a $100, I'm not asking.
FYI - I think it pays to throw a fit and mention that your next new vehicle will be a Lexus.
2018 VW Passat SE w/tech, 2016 Audi Q5 Premium Plus w/tech, 2006 Acura TL w/nav
T/you. Will
If anyone knows what the contact is on the Aurora i would appreciate it. Im hoping its just a stuck lever or something because all the other doors will activate the light and turn off the radio if I open them. Just not the drivers door.
__________________
I believe they are in part of the door latch itself. Should be a black plastic piece where the latch bar (on the body) goes into the door on the door. Hoped that helped. I know when I work on the inside of mine, I "fake" close the driver's door by rotating the piece on the door latch.
LMK
Thanks
My Mom's 01 Suby driver's side auto-dim mirror apparently leaked it guts out and now looks horrible and is barely useable. But mine still functions as a mirror. Maybe there's a difference between one for outside and one for inside and the obvious model year diff?
Lastly, would I be able to install a newer mirror into my 95? I already successfully installed homelink into my 95 and was wondering if it would be a direct plug and play or not. Looking at like a 97-99 Aurora mirror with a compass is my question. An On-Star mirror wouldn't work. Also what about another GM mirror with compass and temp on the mirror would that worK?
I see a lot of Gentex mirrors on eBay (am going to try to pick one up for my GTO, which is sorely missing autodim/compass/outside temp - just has a basic $1.98 mirror on it)...
--Robert
--Robert
Wiper Motor Replacement
Removal Procedure:
Remove the wiper arms.
Remove the air inlet grille panel.
Remove the three bolts and two nuts retaining the windshield frame reinforcement.
Remove the windshield frame reinforcement.
Pull or push on the wiper transmission linkage to rotate the wiper motor crank arm from the park position to the area opposite the park position.
Remove the harness grommet from the hole in the plenum.
Disconnect the wiper motor harness connector.
Push the harness and grommet through the hole in the plenum.
Remove the three screws retaining the wiper system drive module.
Remove the wiper system drive module from the vehicle.
Remove the drive link from the wiper motor crank arm.
Remove the screws retaining the wiper motor.
Remove the wiper motor from the wiper drive system module.
Installation Procedure:
Install the wiper motor onto the wiper drive system module with the screws.
Tighten the screws to 8 N·m (71 lb in).
Install the drive link onto the wiper motor crank arm.
Lower the wiper module into the upper plenum with the nose of the wiper motor pointing downward.
Rotate the wiper module so that the wiper motor nose points toward the rear of the vehicle.
Install the wiper drive system module with the three screws.
Tighten the three screws to 8 N·m (71 lb in).
Push the harness and grommet through the hole in the plenum.
Connect the wiper motor harness connector.
Install the harness grommet into the hole in the plenum.
Install the windshield frame reinforcement with the three bolts and two nuts.
Tighten the three bolts and two screws to 9 N·m (80 lb in).
Install the air inlet grille panel.
Operate the wipers and check for proper operation
Is there a computer that controls all of these functions????
ENGINE AND BODY?
I diagnosed the problem to be a worn out inner tie rod end. Saturday morning I replaced all inner and outer rod ends. I figured as long as I have to get the car aligned, it would be best to replace all the joints at once. It wasn't a very difficult job to do at all. 90$ for parts, and 55$ for a laser alignment.
Just normal parts that wear out I guess. I can't complain, there are 103,000 on the Odometer!
Has anyone else had to have these parts replaced?
Pete
John