Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Options
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
The rule of thumb tire swaps on "normal" cars is no more than 3% difference. Your swap would be 3.3%.
I view the markedly different turning circle figures as an indication that things are very tight and that limits are put on the max steering angle at the rack to prevent scraping.
I'd contact TireRack and see what their recommendation are on 16" wheel/tire. They seem to be pretty good at this math.
My concern would be the front wheel well. The Forester has more room for tires. At full lock you have to cycle the suspension up and down all the way and see if the tires contact the fenders or fender liners.
If it were a Forester, my guess would be yes, but on a Legacy, I'm going to guess that you will have clearance issues.
There really isn't a lot of room for "slop" on the Legacy or Impreza. Tolerances for stuff like that is tighter than with the Forester.
I have 4 almost brand new 215 60 R16 that came from a Forester that was on lease.
I am heading to my dealership tomorrow for the 3rd time to look at this problem. I am no where NEAR technical so is there anything I can tell them to check??? At this point, I just avoid driving my car on really cold days or drive with the window cracked open. Leave it to NH weather to be warm this week so they won't be able to smell it tomorrow!!!
I am going with the TSB from the WRX forum but just want to know if there is a list of other areas I can have them look at?
Hopefully fibber2 checks here tonight!
Thanks!
Hey, that worked!!! Used a picture I took when the car was about 2 years old.
OK. At the far left you will see a small band clamp with a philips head screw in the red circle. That is one example of the dozen plus such clamps on little joiner rubber hoses that bridge between steel lines. Check around the area of the fuel filter, and you'll see lots of them.
To the right, you will see a greenish cover (big circle) over the front corner of the cylinder head, passengers side. Underneath that cover is a little hose that joins a steel line that originates from the drivers side, and the fuel rail for the two injectors on this side. In the front you will see a hole (red arrow). I suspect that the philips head screw of the clamp way under there was once lined up with this hole for easy access. Mine was pointed straight up, and too tight to readjust. So instead, I drilled a hole in the top of the bracket, inserted the screwdriver, and tighted it up. This was one of several spots that leaked fuel on sub 20'F weather, and the only one that I could not easily get to and tighten.
So far, so good....
Owners manual is available as a .pdf from the Subaru site (as in like free!!!).
https://www.subaru.com/my-subaru/my-account/subaru-technical-information.html
When salesmen ask me what I want to pay for something, I always say Free!
So, I have an appointment and loaner car scheduled for next week. They state that this fix should be about $300. Not the best thing for me right now, but really sick of that smell!!
Thoughts?
These systems run at 35-40 psi, and these hoses are simply fabric reinforced rubber. Eventually, they break down. Face it, our cars are getting old. And so are we! All the hoses (fuel, coolant, etc.) are likely to begin the death spiral. Checked your arteries lately?? Just kidding!
Obviously, the price seems high, but some of them are a real pain to get at. Plus, I'm sure that each of the little buggers has a part number, and costs more than they are worth, plus the clamps.
I wonder if they will also be doing the set back by the tank and the evap canister, or just the ones under the hood for that price?
Please, let us know the outcome.
I don't have the write up in front of me but I think that they did all the hoses, but not sure.
Plus, I had a 2010 Forester as a loaner. Nice ride!
Mine required a further 'tweak' last week. I had been smelling gas when the temps hit the high twenties. I did the drill thru the bracket thing and nailed the really loose clamp, and that pushed it down to the high teens. Last week I went around the whole system and gave every one another full turn, and am no longer smelling anything down to around 10 degrees. Next round will probably require replacing hoses as they are beginning to look quite crushed.
Funny (?) thing is when I walked into the garage (sitting at around 28' the other morning), I could smell a slight hint of fuel coming from the front of my wife's '02 Honda Odyssey! So the adventure begins anew.
Yes, they are! I was spoiled last week because I had loaned my '98 Escort (my normal daily driver) to a friend who's car was destroyed in a crash. As a result, I was able to drive my '10 Forester all week long. Now that I have my Escort back, it seems awfully uncomfortable and primitive....
Most of my vehicles are that way, though, so it is just a matter of getting used to it (again). I usually only drive or ride in the Forester once or twice a week, so using it is more of a treat than anything else. I probably go 300 miles in the Escort weekly and only another 50-60 in the Forester. Occasionally, I am tempted to replace it (the Escort) with an older Subaru like yours (or an Impreza hatch), but feel highly justified in hanging onto it after a visit to the fueling station.
I have never scoped a headlamp socket, but I really doubt that you'd see anything other than flat DC with maybe a little ripple noise. But, it might be possible that the voltage regulator on your car might be running a bit hot. A small increase in voltage can have a major impact on a tungsten filament.
I know there is an inrush current spike when you turn it on, but I assumed the same as you and it would go flat after that. I don't know if there is some issue with the headlamp mounting itself and vibration or inadequate cooling or something.
At least they don't flicker like in the Accord.
I tried hotter bulbs (Hella H4+30) and they only lasted a year, and I'm sure because I tried them in 2 different cars.
Don't go for the bulbs that claim more output, because they may run hotter and not last as long. Shop for the long life bulbs.
I concur. I knew they wouldn't last the 4 years I got out of the OE's but my experience was poor with high output bulbs. I replaced the bulbs in our Odyssey with some Sylvania Silver Stars. They lasted about 9 months and went out within days of each other. I put it the cheaper basic halogens as replacements.
Yeah, I learned that lesson with one of the sets as well.
In HS, I replaced the 55w high beams with 85w high beams on the car at the time which resulted in a melted headlamp socket and nearly killed the alternator. Good learning experience for a 17 year old. The headlights (high and low) went back to stock, and 85w Hella driving lamps were installed for the late night/early morning mountain road runs.
I go with stock bulbs for modern cars and with older vehicles (pre-some time in the 90s), I run lamps directly from the battery with a relay at the switch.
Let's see if I can explain it.
Usually, when simply shut my car off the security light DOES NOT light up. It does so only when I lock the car and the system is "ON". When working properly, it will flash SECURITY once every few seconds.
Now, once I take the key out of the ignition, the Security light flashes rapidly twice and then the same every few seconds. All the time. Even with the car is NOT locked. When I lock it, it still flashes rapidly twice and then every few seconds, again.
Is there something that needs to be reset with my security system. Oh, and it is a Genuine Subaru system.
I periodically test my system by slapping the windshield to make sure the motion/breakage sensor is working, as well as the door open function.
1.) What is the rust protection for our car? I am probably way over it... 2001 with 135k. I just noticed two rust "bubbles" around both of my back tire wells. They are still my Winstone color but seeing as I am in NH with our salted roads, who knows before it shows as rust. I do have a little rust showing in the rear driver's side inside doorwell.
2.) There is a "vein" forming on my dashboard. Right above the glove box where it is a little flat shelf before the dark dash comes in...(I have beige interior)...there is a vein forming that looks like it may crack and form an ugly sight on my dash. Does yours have that?
1) Forget it... IIRC, it was 5 years / 100k miles or something like that. My '02 is still clean, but I have seen a growing number of '00 & '01's with the little rust patches at the leading or trailing edge of the metal section of the rear wheel well. I suspect that the small strip of wraparound rubber trim is a double edged sword - it decreased road debris damage, but traps moisture and sand. It will probably creep into the '02's next year. Rust never sleeps!
2) No varicose veins on that pebble / grain section between the door and the dash pad on my car.
THANKS!
For 02 Outback model, emergency disarming can be done the following way:
Insert the key into the ignition key switch and cycle it from the "LOCK" to the "ON" position 3 times within 5 seconds.
I tried it on my 02 LL Bean, and it works. The instruction is stated in the Owner's Manual.
Good luck
Anyone know what's going on or should I take it to the shop?
Its a 2007 legacy wagon 2.5i special edition with 42,000 miles.
Check if it's under the emissions warranty. That's usually longer than other warranties.