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But without that info, I'd suggest checking the taillight bulbs for proper operation. Brake lights turn on the high intensity filament in the bulb, headlight/running lights turn on the low intensity filament in the bulb.
My Century has some issues that you may know how to resolve. The twin cooling fans will not kick on, I checked the battery because of the low voltage safety feature, had a dead cell in a <2 yr old battery, replaced, but still no fans. I can jump straight off the positive to the white fan on the right side, the second fan will not kick on even with a hot feed. See next posting for the rest.
Plan on pulling the Cluster to look for a bad relay/resistor/fuse/bulb, but there seems to be a bigger issue. See next posting for the rest.
You can check out the fan motors themselves, by applying 12volts directly to the motor to verify that the fan motor itself is good. Before doing that, I always (with all power off), spin the fan blade manually to make sure it's not bound up. Check also the fuse to the fans. Assuming the fans work and the fuse is okay, then you know the problem is in the control circuitry as opposed to the fan motor.
The control circuitry differs obviously by mfg, year, make, model. I've seen a couple different logic being used on fans:
- two fans, one is turned on by high engine radiator temperature, the 2nd fan turned on when the a/c is turned on. Computer logic turns on a relay, which turns on a fan.
- two fans, both turned on low speed based on high engine radiator temperature (they do this via a relay, where the fans are wired in series, hence they run at half speed), and when the a/c is turned on the relay switches and the fans are wired in parrallel, hence both running at full speed.
- one fan, controlled by logic and relay,
I'm sure there are other valid combinations of circuit control.
You would probably have a pretty big fuse (like 20/30/40 amps) for the fans, find that in your owners manual and make sure that isn't blown. Then check to see if the fans will work with direct power given to them. Then at that point, look for the fan relay(s).
Again, I don't have any electrical schematics for your vehicle, which you may want to locate/buy/subscribe to. I'll give you some generic things that I would look for:
- check first that you have a good battery, should be putting out 13-14 volts, have good solid, no corrosion connections to the wiring.
- Many vehicles will have a 'fusible link', or big chunk of metal that acts like a fuse, generally rated around 100 - 150 Amps.Think of this as the fuse to the main set of fuses.
- There are some fused circuits, which are supplied power all of the time from the battery. Thinks like security system, lights, power door lock opener, etc. There could also be relays in this circuitry, to handle higher current levels.
- There are some other fused circuits, which are only supplied power when the key is in the ignition and turned on. There could also be relays in this circuitry, to handle higher current levels (for instance, the key in the ignition turns on the relay, the higher current relay points provide the power to those fused circuits). Things like radios, heaters, a/c, defroster windows, etc
When you have a number of items that are showing symptoms of electrical failure, start with your basic main battery power feeds, and verify that they are working.
I've always bought the factory service manuals as well for my GM vehicles. I haven't seen the problem you reference with mis-labeling, so not sure what to expect with that.
You'll have to meter out some circuits, when you have a failing situation. Verify that the keyswitch is good, any relay's that are in the circuit, eliminate any aftermarket security systems, and verify that you are getting power to the distributor, etc.
Don't throw any more parts at it, until you figure out where the problem really is.
any simular issues or does anyone know what I need to tell the mechanic to fix.
thanks
If not that, then I guess I'd tear off the fuse box and look for signs of shorts or corrosion.
If not either of those, then lots 'o luck finding this one....it comes down to tracking wires down, by the hour labor rate.
Most cruise controls will turn off, when the brake circuit is energized.
If the bulb has filaments crossing, it would effectively short the parking brake circuit, to the brake circuit. You turn on the lights, it back feeds and energizes the brake light circuit, and turns off the cruise control.
I like it!
A shorted out bulb filament!
my mom's 2000 oldsmobile silhouette GLS has a door ajar digital light flashing on even thought all the doors are closed all the way. the contacts on the sliding doors are fine and shiny.
Sometimes, when hitting a bump, the interior lights go on then off.
Any help?
thanks
Thank you
If so, a dealer should really be able to fix this problem. Don't know why they should need serveral tries, unless they are unable to replicate the problem while they have the car, and so aren't doing anything with it....
gas gauge - mostly stays on full, but sometimes dips down to empty, even when tank is full
door locks - they work, sometimes
heater - fan blows, heat comes out, sometimes, usually cool air
low coolant warning light - comes on, goes off, comes on, goes off, even when coolant full
little symbol that indicates electrical problems usually on, occasionally goes off
any ideas?
gas guage - probably a bad sending unit in the gas tank
door locks - you didn't say if it's the door switch, remote, or auto locking, but I assume it's the door switch, which is probably dirty and carbonized from use
heater - could be many things, clogged core, faulty control, temp sensor, loss of vacuum control
low coolant light - probably the float sensor in the resivoir tank
little symbol - do you mean the service engine soon or check engine light?
Remember these are just guesses, and it's 11 years old. These niggling little problems can be expected.
A loose, broken, or high-resistance ground connection could allow sneak paths for current through other circuits, that can raise havoc with indicator lights, gauges, and sensors.
CHEVY
If the bulb checks out OK or the replacement doesn't work, disconnect the head unit (unplug it at the harness connector) and see what happens.
Also, check your fuses in the fuse box.