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Oh, one last comment. I read a post from a member that stated he gets 23 mpg on the highway and 18 in town, with his V10 excursion, DUDE you are so full of it. NO ONE has ever gotten that kind of mileage out of the v10, unless you've got 8 kids and they are pushing it 40% of the time.
I own and still drive a 2000 excursion that I bought new, it has almost 200,000 on it and so far I've replaced the alternator, rebuilt the front end and replaced all the brake rotors, cam position sensor and that's it. I get around 16-17 mpg in town and have gotten as high as 24 on long trips with a tail wind. The vehicle is the best I've ever owned and very comfortable to drive long distances. It does however, have the worst electrical system I've ever encountered, bar none. I am planning on getting at least 350,000 miles out of mine, the sole reason for buying the diesel.
To all you excursion owners, enjoy a truly awesome rig. I laugh everytime I see a good friend of mine because he has a 3/4 ton suburban with a 454 and get 7 in town and 10 on the highway, and I still have more pulling power than he does, poor poor chevy owners.
Thanks
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
I do know this for sure. The 'can't go back to regular after synthetic' is a myth. We were living in the Far North and got a new F150 right from the factory. Before we took delivery we had synthetic put in it because it performs better in extreme cold. A couple of years ago, after we moved back to civilization, we went back to regular oil in this truck. Believe me when I say that I grilled that service tech before I let them do it. Synthetic is expensive and we wanted to save some money on a truck that was getting older. "Blue" is now 12 years old and still runs like a top on regular oil. No problems at all after converting. Actually come to think of it we have had less trouble overall with the F150 compared to the Ex. :confuse:
I have not heard anything either from the peeling paint guy. I have had some paint peel but it is very minor compared to some of you other guys.
Anyone have any reccomendations on how to fix this. Is the cat plugged?
Thanks
Shawn
It's been a long time since I have posted anything on this forum. Sorry..... Anyway, I looked back to kinda catch up on what's going on with the Excursions. Looks like the brakes are still an issue; also the paint flaking off is another. I have had both problems with my 2004 Ex Eddie Bauer. Fortunately I had the paint covered by the dealer. (It helps to have gone to school with the service people) Paint on the front bumper and on the roof and above the back hatch is were I had problems. The brake rotors were cryogenic treated and they are holding up very well. I have 28000 miles on them. and no issues, just great braking and no warping. Most of the miles are towing trailers. Camping and Racing type. So I have put them to the test. Very Happy I had that process done to them, after I had so many problems with the brakes on the previous two Excursions I have owned. Now a new problem has popped up. The back up sensors quit working. When I put the truck in reverse the switch on the dash stays in the off mode and will not switch on. No warning beep anymore. Kind of bummed out with this. Anyone have any suggestions? Anyway if you need more info with your problems, I will be monitoring this forum often again. It's good to be back. Talk to you all soon. Andrew
Thanks for the post. I have an 01 with 135K and I am on my third set of rotors and they are starting to pulse. What brand do you suggest. I am really tired of putting money into replacement OEM rotors. The only thing I can suggest on your back up sensor is to check the circuit, see if there is a fuse out, cut wire, and check each sensor to see if they are all getting current. That is all I have, I have never had an issue with mine. Thanks again for the post...
I wanted to give you some info on the rotors. Sorry to say that the rotors I had cryogentic treated are OEM rotors. But they are great after I had them done. The company that did the process was a local cryogenics shop,. They have since went out of business because of bad management, can you believe that??? You may try a goggle search and see who will offer the Cryo. treatment and see how much they will charge you for the process. I bought new Ford rotors and had them done before I installed them. Back in 2004 the cryo process cost me $250.00 for all four rotors. I did notice that "twtcad" post #340 had purchased some dimpled, slotted rotors off e-bay and had some good success with them. Just watch out for the China crap. The rotors may cost more for some good USA aftermarket ones. But the China stuff is not so good from what I hear. :lemon: About the back up sensors I'm going to check the fuses and the wire circuits and see what I find out when I get a minute. Thanks for some suggestions for starters. If I find anything useful on my diagnostic testing, I will be sure to post the results. C/ya later Andrew
Thanks for the reply. Did you have the cryo process done on the same rotors you were having problems with? This is my 3rd set and I have about 20K on these and the pulse just started about 200 miles ago. Thanks.
About using the old rotors, I would not recommend it. If your going to spend the money on the cryo process, start with new rotors. Mine were Ford OEM rotors with no miles on them, Straight out of the box and to the cryo. shop for the treatment. I put them on my truck right after that. My Excursion only had 500 miles on it. I didn't even wait for anything to happen. If you are interested I have the old rotors with 500 miles on them and I'll make you a good deal on them. All 4 rotors for $450.00. I have them listed on a local selling site www.ksl.com Classified ads under Auto Parts and Accessories category or wheels and tires category. Take a look if you want. C/ya later Andrew
Thanks for the note back. I will not be buying your rotors but thanks for the offer. I am also looking into a different brand and type of rotor that are drilled and slotted.
paul
paul
I was lucky, my Excursions were still under warentee and Ford fixed them. Then I traded in my 2001 with 21000 miles on it, for a 2004 Ex. Eddie Bauer. The first thing I did was the brakes. The Cryo brakes have been working great with 28000 miles and I don't baby them by no means. I did not use FROZEN ROTORS so I can't compare them to the ones I have. I wish that yours had been reliable as mine. You may try twtcads fix with the slotted and dimpled rotors. He has 60K on them and no problems. I would look at the calipers real close and make sure that the pins move very easy without any slop in the bushing. This is a typical Ford caliper hang up. I wish I could suggest another solution for this braking problem. Good luck and I hope you get this fixed without a major headache. :sick: C/ya Later Andrew
I work at KTP here in KY will check on computer chip when we go back to work in Feb. If a dealer does know they will not tell you unless it is a recall. The price to fix a vehicle is higher then a recall fix.
Thank you!
TXDUDE1
I sent this to a Ford electrical eng'r that I have worked with in the past and here is what he had to say about your issue. Hope it helps.
There is no such device called "iLock" that I know of on an Excursion. There is a computer software program called iLock. The antitheft system on the 2000 Excursion is the PATS system (Passive Anti-Theft System) and there is a technical service bulletin regarding diagnosis of the system in case of a no start condition. Here is a link to the TSB - http://www.v8sho.com/SHO/Passive%20Anti%20Theft%20Diag%20TSB%2099-26-6.htm.
If the PATS system is causing the vehicle to no start or crank, the red icon on the instrument cluster that looks like a vehicle with a padlock will flash on and off quickly to indicate that the anti-theft is active. Typically it is a wiring issue or a PATS transponder or PATS antenna that has gone bad.
i had just replaced the fuel pump and im getting 30psi not sure if thats right... ...i already replaced the oxygen sensors so i dont know if that could still be it... i drive on the freeway constantly .. when i get about 10 minutes on the freeway the revolutions will go all the way down and it will just be in idle just enough for the motor to not turn off, even though the its in drive... then ill have to turn it off and on again for it to work another 10 minutes... anyone know on what i can do?