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Ford Excursion Maintenance and Repair



  • Hello Bradnels

    I have a 2000 7.3 liter excursion as well and am considering chip...can you please provide more info on what chip you purchased. Thanks!
  • my wifes 2002 would come out of 4x4 low......rather she cant figure it out.....whats the secret???? Im away and cant look at it myself.....its automatic tranny, is it in the onwers manual??? what can i tell her to do???
  • I am looking into getting an Excursion. I have had a few Mercedes and never had any problems with the diesel engines or transmissions. When telling a friend that we were looking at these trucks he said the Powerstrokes are junk (he has a Cummins in a Dodge pickup)and stay away from them. Price wise we are looking at the 2000-01 range. Are there any common problems with the engines and tranny's I should look for? What is the average lifespan of the Powerstrokes? I have always gotten around 300k miles on the Benz's top ends before needing rebuilds. Can I expect this type of service from the Ford? Any kind of insight will be appreciated. Thanks.
  • 390gt390gt Posts: 17
    If your looking at 2000-01, 02 or 03 with the 7.3L you're ok. Some problems with 01 transmissions. The 7.3L PSD will easily go 300K with proper care. Dodge guy may be referring to 6.0L PSD found in mid 03-05. A few 03 and 04 had major problems. As far as Excursion itself, a fine vehicle, some front rotor problems if you drive it hard. Also front ball joints wear out fairly quickly.

    We had a 2000 with the V10 for 100K miles, traded for 03 with 7.3L last May. Just as happy with even better mileage.
  • rexfordrexford Posts: 2
    Hi, just reading the Forum so this is a slow reply and you may have your answer already. I have a 6.0 PSD with the same Turbo.
    Basically the Fins in the Turbo can pitch, this means at slower RPM's the fins pitch to push more air into the system, thereby reducing "turbo lag" when the RPM's are higher the fins reduce the pitch and act as a normal set turbo.
    This system is a good one, producing more power at lower RPM / speed.
  • I've read the posts and like some of you I think this is more than what we've been told. My Excursion's locks started acting up right before I replaced the battery. They seemed sluggish and sometimes random ones wouldn't unlock, though they usually would lock. I had a rear wing that wouldn't go out either and the truck was 5 years old so I figured I'd replace the battery first and see what happened. Wa-laa! The rear wing has plenty of juice and starts working again. However, the locks continued to act up in a random fashion. For a while it was like a lottery, you never knew which lock or locks would work and which ones wouldn't. Now they've gotten to the point now where none will open.

    I noticed when I pressed the button, I could hear the actuators fire and the locks try to lift. If I pressed the button several times in a row the sound got weaker until there was no actuator noise at all. Now I don't know much, but to me it seems like these things are firing from a capacitor or something that isn't charged up. I find it very hard to believe that every actuator in my truck has decided to go out at the exact same time. Does anyone else have any ideas short of replacing these actuators? Is there a relay or solenoid or capacitor or module of some kind that controls all the locks and could be somehow shorting out or not getting enough juice? Any help is appreciated.

    Thanks. :lemon:
  • kevins3kevins3 Posts: 10
    On the Diesel the oil runs the fuel pump and other equipment too
  • mmartin3mmartin3 Posts: 1
    Hi - my 2000 ford diesel excursionhas recently done the same identical thing... did you receive any information that may be helpful.

    Thank you
  • I own a 00 Excursion, 7.3, stock. I've had most of the problems that people have complained about i.e. interior lights stay on, door ajar sensor, power door locks only work on the driver's door, but the worst one is the brakes, I read a posting a few years ago about replacement rotors and calipers that were guaranteed to work, they weren't cheap, approx 500.00 each for front and back, but I can't take the shaking anymore.
    This is actually kind of tragic, because other than the above items, these SUV's RULE. I have 180,000 on mine, the only work done under the hood has been to replace the alternator. The "check engine" light has been on since for about 5 years. My mechanic says the code is for glow plug, but he checked each one and said they are okay, so the hell with the light. I'll be honest, I drive this thing, and I don't have it serviced every 3,000, its more like 7,000. I bought it new and just finished paying it off, I'm expecting to get another 6 years of service out of it maybe more. As I said Great SUV, with a few nagging flaws.
  • Hi all, just thought I would say that I found the company, it, and I'm glad to say the the price is less than 400.00 per end, 774.00 for the both ends. I'll post again after I get them installed and put a few miles on it.
  • rmejiarmejia Posts: 8
    i've noticed a lot of the same problems on my V-10 '01 excursion, like the door locks and brakes. my door locks went out this year, and the truck vibrates like crazy when i brake. i replaced the tranny last year at 80k, that burned up on a road trip. the heaviest thing i've towed with it was a couple of jet skis. I had a friend replace it which cost me $3,500, and just last week, i had a spark plug shoot out the head. bad news is the heads can't be re tapped, so i have to replace the head, thats another $3,800. i've maintained this thing since day one, and its serviced on time. i love this rig, and its convenient to have, but i have to say, i've never had so many problems with a single vehicle thats only 5 years old. for now i'm sticking with it, next on the list is the brakes, so any suggestions on after market brake products, and door lock locks would be helpful.
  • Hello. I bought a used 2001 Excursion and my door locks worked for a very short time, shortly after owing it (I'm talking weeks), all but the passenger behind the driver and the rear hatch quit working. The approximate cost is $400.00 to have them fixed.

    I now have another problem. My paint on the roof is blistering and peeling. Have you heard of any problems with this?

  • I have this same problem. I just noticed it approximately 1 month ago and within weeks of noticing, more and more spots are blistering and ready to peel.

    We called Ford directly and they were not much help and said to contact the dealer where we bought it. We did and they were not much help either.

    Has anyone had to deal with Ford on this issue? Can you offer some advice?

  • Well said. I've been reading these forums and I too have the same problems mentioned from other owners. Door locks not working, warped rotors, rear hatch rubbing paint of bi-fold doors, blistering and peeling paint on roof top, door ajar lights come on intermittently finding myself running around opening and closing doors, ball joints, etc. My husband called Ford just yesterday and you guessed it, they were no help at all. They suggested to call the dealer, we did and yet again no assistance. He told Ford customer service he would never buy another Ford again because they do not stand behind their product. We even have a relative who worked for Ford as an engineer and quit because they didn't want to listen about how to build better vehicles and said he wouldn't own a Ford.

    There has to be something we can do. Does anyone have any suggestions?
  • bradnelsbradnels Posts: 2
    I put in the Superchips Standard performance which does 60 HP and about 90 LBS of torque, and it is very noticeable. MY Mileage did go up, I get about 21-23 on the freeway/Highway and 17-18 in the city, in the summer with unblended. In the winter it drops about 3 mpg because it is blended. With the standard one I can still tow pretty much anything but I have heard if you go for the performance chip it greatly reduces your towing capacity.
    Most of what out there now is a programer which you plug in and select your performance level for you needs.
    Good luck.
  • kevins3kevins3 Posts: 10
    I have a 2003 4x4 excursion 7.3 diesel. Just wanted to let you know had to have the dealer replace the hubs as they went bad and ford has a good will program that is left up to the dealers to decide if it is used. the parts would of cost me 500 dollars and they split that.the only othe problem i have found with it is the backing sensors not working. VERY HAPPY WITH IT! Have 52,000 miles on it
  • bossbobbossbob Posts: 2

    Did you ever get a solution to your problem.

    My excursion is doing the exact same thing. I removed the door panel, but didn't really see what was going on.

    Any help would be appreciated.

  • ciiiddsciiidds Posts: 1
    did you ever get an answer to your power lock problem? I see alot of post stating the problems but no answers. thanks
  • jpjfjpjf Posts: 1
    Ive had my excursion for les than a year and about 8k miles. Noted a check engine light two weeks ago and took it in. When I got it back, the report from the dealer's service dept. said it had something to do with a shortened harness (?). Sounds suspiciously like a crank kit to me. Anyway, check engine light is back on. Truck running fine, no other problems. Anyone have any ideas?
  • Hi, thought I'd post an update to my excursion woes. A few weeks ago I had all the ball joints replaced (800.00), the local ford dealer quoted me 1500 for parts and labor, I bought the ball joints at my local napa dealer for half the price and paid a local mechanic to install them. I took off for Yuma, AZ (800 miles) right after it came out of the shop. Enjoyed a wonderful week in the sun and then started home, all was reasonably fine until I got about 100 miles north of Las Vegas, then the front end starting vibrating like it was going to come apart. I spent two days at a gas station until someone could come and get me. I trailered the thing home and found out that the right front "bearing hub assembly" had failed (quote on bearing - 540.00) I ordered two off the internet for 580.00 (included shipping), also decided to replace all four rotors with aftermarket units (can't stand the vibrating anymore).
    It's a good thing that I just got this monster paid off, all in all, the last month has been about 3000.00 in repairs. It's still a great rig, just suffers from some very nagging problems.
  • napabluenapablue Posts: 3
    Read your instructions and went out to try. Perfect and effortless. Much thanks! Recommend that anyone wanting to remove door panel, follow the instructions!

    I (and a friend before me) have the door lock problem. Passenger doors went out first, then driver's door. Just after the warranty expired (~40k miles). They're under-powered and when I get them fixed I'm going to dis-assemble one of the broken ones, check the coil winding, compute the uH, comvert to torque, blah blah, find that they're underpowered. I'm sure Ford knew the problem but shipped the product anyway.

    My wife's Lincoln Aviator's power door locks sound like a nail gun. The Excursion's always sounded weak.

    Oh, I also have the rotor warpage problem. My buddy who owns a Lincoln/Mercury dealership fixed them gratis, but now I'm out-of-state. Time to get rid of the Excursion.
  • napabluenapablue Posts: 3
    Yeah, I noticed the same thing, and my instincts question the failure of 3 at once (driver's side failed later). Could be that one fails and that sucks the juice out of the others. The others aren't bad, just don't get enough current to energize coils? Another member replaced the locks. Did this fix the problem? Were the "bad" solenoids tested individually to see if all were indeed bad?

    A friend had a similar failure of the locks before me, around 40k miles (mine happened at 44k), but with that problem, the spedometer also read zero (0) while the vehicle was moving, along with a couple of other intermittents. This would suggest a more sinister harness or computer problem.

    I think Ford knows what the problem is, but is keeping it quiet. This is a safety issue, though, and it won't serve Ford well to cover it up. Sometimes the rear passenger door locks get jammed and the doors can't be opened from inside or outside. We have to move the vehicle or bump the door until the mechanism finds the sweet spot and unlocks.

    SAFETY HAZARD :lemon:
  • rlh0348rlh0348 Posts: 1
    Driver's side door will not latch. Can anyone help?
  • webjivewebjive Posts: 1
    I have been following this thread for a while and now that it's time to do something about my 03 X's pitiful brakes. I did a little digging and found PowerStop slotted brake rotors and pads for about $150. Any feedback on these?

    Ebay Auction Link
  • truktoytruktoy Posts: 4
    2004 Ford Diesel EXC, 30,000 miles. Recently at 45 to 48 mph the vehicle jerked back and forth for about eight seconds. Eng rpm stayed at about 1300. The next day it occured again but was very mild. The first time dealer reprogrammed transmission computer but after about two weeks the problem reoccured. Dealer can't duplicate. Problem only occurs about twice a week!! Any ideas??
  • culinrydculinryd Posts: 1
    i think i have the same problem and ofcourse when i take the car to dealer it wont do it. do you also get hard shifts, noise like a backfire and alot of black smoke from the exahst, also does the car hesitate when all this happens.
  • john142john142 Posts: 1
    I have an 01 v-10 X. My door ajar light comes on and interior lights stay on while driving although all doors are closed. When I turn car off running board lights and interior lights stay on as if a door where opened. Any suggestions?
  • kingdkingd Posts: 2
    The front driver side (Wheel) is very noisy when I accelerate. The faster I go, the louder it gets. It's like metal pans being hit together. There is a hose under there that is torn. I haven't taken the X out since the noise started. I only drive it on Sunday's so I thought that it may have been sitting to long but, the hose torn has me worry. Any Ideas on what is going on?
  • truktoytruktoy Posts: 4
    Vehicle does sometimes hesitate when stepping on the pedal.
    Occasionally takes extra time when shifting around 18 to 20 mph. Not really a hard shift but not smooth either. Have not experienced a backfire or black smoke from the exhaust. Suspect your exhaust gas recirculation valve for that problem. Ford has a recall for the EGR valve.
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