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Ford Excursion Maintenance and Repair



  • truktoytruktoy Posts: 4
    Excursion now has 43,000 miles (2004 6.0 diesel)and engine cuts out for 1 to 4 seconds in 45 to 65 mph range causing a jerk/shudder. Also sometimes there is a stagnation at idle and engine will not accelerate. I shift to neutral and engine will then accelerate and emits a black cloud of smoke from the exhaust pipe. Dealer cannot duplicate. Has anyone had the same problem and been able to fix it??
  • Does anyone know where I can get the ribbon that connects from the monitor of the tv screen to the control unit. I'd like to try replacing it before spending a fortune on the entire assembly.
  • By the way its a 2001!
  • I have a 2002 Excursion, recently the reverse lights and back up sensors started staying on in all gears...the only way to shut them off when the truck is running is the emerg. brake. some one said neutral safety switch? Where do I look? Any suggestions?
  • I would say it's probably the the sensor that senses when you are in reverse, most likely on the trasmission. If you don't have a shop manual to look it up you can go talk to the dealer/sevice center. I have had good luck going to the service center and getting schematics from thier micro fiche, and sometimes they even let me talk to a mechanic, and ask are the most common falts for this problem? Usally they'll tell you with the caviot of no guarantees unless you bring it in for diagnosis, this is uysuall a flat charge of $50, and is applied if you let them fix. or... you can call the local dealer and tell them you need a backup sensor, and want to see if they have it on hand? The ask them where it goes on the vehicle, you might get them to tell you this over the phone. If so you can do some quick checks with a meter and see if it's toggeling, or on just steadily. Your backup alarm being on is a result of the vehicle thinking it's still in reverse. That would be my angle of pursuit... good luck.
  • cuinakcuinak Posts: 3
    Sorry for the delayed response, as I post usually on FTE. It's your ICV (Idle Control Valve), attached on the back side of the V10 carburetor inlet air near the fire wall. Two small bolts and then detach clamp holding air hose to the ICV. It gets really dirty over time and the shaft in the fist size ICV sticks causing cold starts to not idle, thereby requiring you to hold down the gas for a few minutes until warmed up. Eventually you get tired of doing this, so you can either take it off and soak it in cleaner to remove dirt and grease for 24 hours, or simply buy another and replace ($130) with a new OEM unit. Some prefer to buy a new unit versus repeating this cleaning step with the old unit. Don't forget to put on the new gasket that comes with the new unit or else you won't seal it to the carburetor to make it air tight. CUINAK
  • Right on Cuinak !!! Thanks for the info, the problem has gone away since its summer time but I was dreading cold wet nights. I'll get right on that fix. What site is FTE?
  • cuinakcuinak Posts: 3
    Forgot to mention that you also have to disconnect the electrical connector from the old Idle Control Valve when removing and re-installing. FTE is the Ford Truck Enthusiasts forum similar to this site, a huge Excursion posting forum filled with 55,000 posts. No fee required, just register like you did for this site.

    Here's the FTE link: FTE
  • OK, Enough is enough.
    I have read a few complaints on peeling paint in this forum. First, I would like to hear from anyone who has had success in a resolution with Ford. I would like to hear from EVERYONE who has a paint-peeling issue because I have contacted a lawyer to see what my options are.
    For the benefit of the group, this is a 2000 Limited in White that I bought new. It has always been hand washed and never hit. The areas peeling are the roof (in the drip rails) and now the R/R passenger door jamb. I am frightened :cry: of thought of what it will look like when more delamination occurs.
  • I have the same 2000 white truck and the same paint peeling problem on the roof.
    I also have given up on the door locks for now, I cannot find any replacements that will work longer then a few months.
    Has any one had trouble with the large yellow cable connection on the alternator, mine is frying? It looks like I will have to replace the wiring.
  • I have given up on the locks too. They are too pricey to be replacing all the time. I had a rough time with that cable. It actually did fry - the mechanic that replaced it burnt his hand when he touched the alternator. We replaced the alternator and have had no problem since. Re peeling paint. My 'Ex' is black and have had no problems with paint...but I know of one that was painted what they used to call 'candy apple red' that had a really bad paint job on it. Ford did re-paint it but it took ALOT of yelling at the dealership and the Ford reps.
  • I have a 2005 Excursion with the 6.0 Diesel, it is a fifty fifty chance if it will start or not. When I attempt to start it the theft light on the dash will blink rapidly and nothing happens when I turn the key. The other half of the time the theft light will blink slowly and the truck starts no problem. The dealer said the alternator and batteries are bad? causing a voltage problem making the anti-theft device think it is being stolen. After a new alternator and batteries it is the same. How can i fix this, or even disable the anti-theft ignition kill switch. Anyone please help!!!
  • It certainly sounds like the anti-theft module is faulty. Do the doors unlock OK with they key fob?
  • I had the same problem with a Ford Tarus. Luckily it was under warranty, it turned out to be a circuit board.
  • I am having the same problem on my 04 Excursion. When I turn the auto climate control off the Defroster turns on high.
    Did you ever figure out how to fix it.
  • I have a white 2000 Excursion. I had the right rear door jam repainted under warrunty in 2002 and it has all peeled off again. The paint on the roof drip rails is gone and it is starting to rust. I think its a great idea to talk to a lawyer. I think you should also mention the door locks, all of mine are fried as well. Keep me posted, I hope everyone else who reads this gets involved as well. :mad: ">
  • I have a 2000 V-10 Limited, bought it new and I had to fix the rear door lock mechanism. The WD 40 was tried first but the real issue was the mechanism was just too worn to muster the torque needed to lock the rear lock. The part can be purchased at auto-zone (I think it was 40-50 bucks). Screws are under the tabs of the interior handle and then the rear plastic housing pops off. The locking mechanism is simply a few screws and a wiring harness change. Whole job is probably 15 to 30 minutes tops. Best thing was the part was available from a parts store on a weekend. They have the mechanisms for the side doors as well. The replacement part is not identical in shape but it fits exactly and has worked perfectly for several months now. Good Luck....TIM
  • I have a 2001 V-10 white limited EX with paint peeling off the roof. I have 132,000 miles on it. The paint started peeling about 2 years ago, just pass the 100,000 mile mark. Talked to ford and the dealer no help. Let me know if I can be of any help.
    Right now that is the lest of my problems. I just blew out the spark plug on cylinder #10, last one on drivers side. The good news is Ford just came out with a kit (October 2007) to repair the spark plug threads. The dealer didn't know for sure if it can be done without taking off the head, he thought it could be done without taking it off. The quote he gave me was $200-$300 without removing head or $1400 if they have to remove the head. The bad news the kit cost $1000.00 and the dealer doesn't want to invest that kind of money. They feel it may take 2-3 years to recoup their money. I found Cal-Van Tool Company makes a kit for around $250. I might buy it and it do it myself. That way if I blow out another I have the kit to do it again.
  • I am really starting to wonder about how good your dealer is. I fought with my 2000 Excursion V-10 for over 2-3 years because the stupid thing did not want to idle. I was seriously thinking of trading it in and getting rid of it. Then I moved, took it to a new dealer, told them the problem, and it runs like it did when it was brand new. I even said to the service guy "what the ____ did you do to my truck???! IT WORKS!!!" As for the dealer not wanting to spend $1000 for a kit...that is garbage!!!! That big V10 is in more vehicles than just the Excursion. AND my dealer told me that the V10 6.8L is just the 5.4L with 2 extra cylinders. SO you are being handed a line. I'd be taking it elsewhere!! There are more Ford Dealers in the sea! :shades:
  • Ridley, so what fixed the Idle problem?? My 2000 V-10 Excursion has had this problem for a few years and my dealer cannot seem to fix it, either!

    My husband would be *very* happy to have this problem fixed - he's currently stuck with my Excursion as I took the other vehicle and I'm out of state (working) for a few months.

  • Will 2006 factory F250/F350 20" wheels fit on my 2000 Excursion? If not, what is the reason.

  • This is in reference to plug problem. Is it an opriginal design problem or could it be due to regular service replacement of plugs and a mechanic applying to much torque?

  • I don't think the first ford dealer I took it to wanted the job. He referred me to a dealer in a bigger city. They have a kit they have been using for some time. It's not the "FORD" kit but a different brand. They have had good luck with it. They quoted me $900 which includes all parts. They found it to be better if they removed the intake manifold to make it easier to do the job. They also remove all the spark plug and inspect the threads and install new spark plugs. That price includes repairing all plug threads that they find bad. Right now we have been talking to Ford about some financial help but it doesn't sound promising.
  • I have talked to two different service technicians. No real answer. One service manager said that Ford has not redesigned the head but another service manager said they had. Who knows? I wonder if it could be bad threads because of inferior metal. Any ways I'm a retired mechanic and I replaced the original plugs myself about 30k miles ago. I used the torque spec's from the "FORD" service manual. When ever I buy a vehicle I but the factory service manual also.
  • I'm not sure what they did. When I talked to the service manager he told me that it sounded like some air intake valve was sticking as they had seen some other Fords (Windstars and Explorers) that acted the same. So I handed the 'X' over to them and they did what I would call a MAJOR tune up. They took the valve apart and cleaned it, replaced all the spark plugs, flushed the injectors, changed ALL the filters - the inline fuel filter was nasty. Bottom line is the service cost me $600 CDN and was worth it. Whatever they did the thing is running like a happy kitty. :shades:
  • I agree with the other guys on the site. For an engine to "blow out" a spark plug is not normal. Someone must have over torqued the things or forced in one sized wrong. I can remember when I still worked at the dealership the manager freaked out at a mechanic who stripped a spark plug and damaged the threads on the engine. I'd suspect that someone did this and did not tell you.
  • Got this off the internet...
    WASHINGTON - Ford Motor Co. is recalling 1.17 million trucks, sport utility vehicles and vans to fix an engine sensor that could lead to engine stalling.
    The recalled vehicles are all from the 1997-2003 model years with 7.3-litre diesel engines, including the Ford E-Series van, Excursion full-size sport utility vehicle, and F-450 Super Duty and F-550 Super Duty trucks.
    The U.S. National Highway Traffic Safety Administration said in a posting on its website that the camshaft position sensor on the engine could function intermittently and lead to an engine stall and potential crash.
    The sensor is an electrical component that helps regulate the fuel going into the engine.
    Ford spokesman Dan Jarvis said there have been 14 accidents associated with the problem, but no injuries reported.

    Recall is to start Dec 17. For those of you with that engine.....enjoy!!!!
  • twtcadtwtcad Posts: 13
    Thank You for the notice! I just scheduled my repair for next Thursday!
  • You're welcome. I watch these pretty close, ever since the Firestone Tire fiasco. I was one of the lucky ones. They did recall the Firestones on the 'Ex's but I never did get a letter to tell me that. But just by watching the recalls I got 5 new tires free!!! ;)
  • I have an '02 w/V-10 that has +/- 145,000 miles and pull a 6x12 cargo trailer for my work. have had the front rotors turned once last year and 2x's this year with pads changed each time. rotors are at minimum allowance. any suggestions for upgrades? had plugs and boots changed at +/- 118,000 with motorcraft oem plugs and engine still pings on acceleration. change fuel filter regularly and have tried higher octane with no noticeable decrease in pinging. also have used injector cleaners i.e. Lucas, Gumout, Seafoam. suggestions?
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