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Comments
- aerodynamics and air flow improvements - reduces drag. I'm amazed they did this, and then went with a dual outlet exhaust (which messes up airflow).
Just got my recall notice for the brake fluid float...going to take it to the dealer next week.
Has anybody else had a steering clunk? I'd like to have an idea of what's wrong before I go to the dealer.
My guess is a defective bushing in one of the steering components, or the rack was not installed properly at the factory.
Stretch, I read that you had the same problem. It sounds like the speaker is blown or there is something loose in there. Did you ever get it fixed, or did you just put a new audio system in? Thanks..
With everything said and done, I would still buy another one in a heartbeat. Nothing takes away from the driving experience and the raw aesthetic appeal of my lapis blue rocket!
1) the AC. I live near Houston, and good AC is a must. Anyone found any solutions yet to the problem of windshield moisture? Also, how well/fast does the AC cool the car? In the one I test drove, which had been sitting in the lot in 100 degree heat, there was no appreciable cooling until at least 15 minutes.
2) On a few review boards, I have come across mentions of rotten transmissions in brand new cars--one such that the car qualified as a lemon. Everyone here seems pretty positive...any info on whether this is more common in the i or s, AT or MT, if this is a Ford problem, or if this is mostly a first-year build issue?
While the car is terrific, I don't have the time or inclination to have to take a brand new car back to the dealer repeatedly.
Thanks.
I haven't had any problems with the transmission, but the car is VERY lethargic from a complete stop with the A/C on. The problem did improve somewhat after the PCM was reflashed (under recall). The transmission isn't as smooth-shifting as the Altima or Camry, but it does shift at the appropriate points and is fairly responsive on downsifts.
The positive points of the car--the handling is excellent, the engine has a pleasing exhaust tone, fit and finish are top-nouch, and the paint is VERY durable (a strong selling point on Utah's crappy roads). Make sure to take a LONG test drive--the lack of low-end torque didn't bother me until I had driven the car for a few days.
Overall, I wouldn't hesitate buying another 6 (although I would seriously consider the 6s and buy my vehicle from another dealer!).
Good luck on your decision.
As for the AT I can't comment for the M6, but the one in my 01 Protege is great! Shifts very well and holds gears downhill - I'm kind of impressed.
Dinu
BTW -- been 90+ here the last few days and my A/C is working great. It blows cold within a few seconds, even if my car has been baking outside in the sun.
Should prevent the flow of air from the evnts.
Also, seeing as a number of posts in the "Problems and Solutions" section sometimes end up being things like "How do I", may I request that we minimize and restrict the use of this particular discussion to real "Problems" and relegate the "How" questions to the main mazda 6 boards?
A lot of (immature? simple-minded?) car-buyers assume a high post count in the problems section implies a more problematic car!
Let me know if this would be useful.
I find the AC on my 6s to be very powerful. While it does take a few minutes to cool down in 100 degree weather, what system does not? I have never had the fogging issue. I find the Auto Climate Control very effective, quick to respond, and easy to manipulate.
Mark. : )
Hitting the separate recirc button will only continue to blow (stale) air and won't prevent air from coming in the vents.
I posted this message here because I believe it is a 'problem' and was wondering if it annoyed anyone else. That's about my only complaint though -- love the car. Who cares if some idiot doesn't buy a 6 because he sees a few messages here? Unless you're a dealer??
Thanks.
So what causes these, if there's nothing wrong in the end? What a pain in the you-know-what.
Is there a standard height that a clutch pedal should be (relative to the brake pedal)? Has anyone had theirs adjusted - it doesn't seem like it would be complicated.
Any helpful comments would be much appreciated. Thanks.
IMHO, the clutch and brake pedals are at a certain height, and it is the accelerator that is lower (by over half an inch). It does feel a little high (the gap/difference) but somethign I got used to quickly. I can now feather the accelerator on uphill stop signs and red lights, although heel-and-toe may be out of the question!
Some people have had great luck and like the result when adding on a set of pedals (addons or inserts), with a thicker accelerator. Inf act, one person (maybe stretch?) bought a whole set, but merely added the accelerator pedal (removed the other 2) and likes the overall feel much better now. The seat and steering wheel adjustment can be used to compensate quite well now, and he can heel-and-toe!
I started hearing the noise after I put 900 miles on the car. At that time it also became somewhat more difficult to put the car into 2nd gear. I don't get a grinding noise but there is more resistance to entering the gear than when the car was new. I was actually expecting the shifting to get smoother with more miles on the odometer. The car now has over 1,600 miles and the noise is still there. I haven't taken it to my local dealer yet because I don't expect them to hear anything this subtle. Most dealers won't acknowledge a transmission problem until after you have the car towed in. I'm looking for any insight, suggestions, comments or questions about this problem. I would also like to know if other 6s or 6i owners with the manual transmission have noticed a similar whine. The more I learn prior to approaching the dealer the greater the chance I can get them to fix this problem.
I appreciate any and all help from the wonderful members of these Edmunds message boards. I have been following the Protege and Mazda6 boards for over two years. The community of people sharing their knowledge and enthusiasm for Mazda vehicles played a great part in my decision to buy a Mazda.
Thanks for your help
As far as shifting into 2nd is concerned, I have noticed that the gearbox does become very 'notchy' (to quote from every Mazda6 review ever published) above 3500-4000 RPM. Sometimes it catches me off guard and I come close to letting off the clutch before I manage to get it into 2nd. I'm just now getting used to the fact that i need to allow more time forthe shifting process at higher RPMs.
Anyway, I'll let you know what I notice when I drive around tonight.
Mark.
Thanks for all the replies so far. Please keep them coming. After this has been discussed to death I will be taking the car to the dealer. I definitely want to get my issue logged in their database. I too was thinking that the problem could be low fluid and that I should ask for them to check the level of the fluid. I especially like to hear comments from other 6s owners with the manual trans because our unit is different from the one in the 6i. Please, anyone with a perspective on the issue chime in.
I get this from my MT too. It's pretty quiet and I only hear it if the radio is off. Not sure if it's actually a problem or just a design flaw.
Good luck with your 6's & hopefully I can be of some help someday (although I wouldn't count on it!)...
Getting some audio equip later this week...I hope for a few more rattles like that.
Not as refined as a K24, but close enough. Mazda's current engines are well designed and manufactured. The 4-speed AT in the 6i is a Mazda unit. Not to be confused with the troublesome Ford AT in the 626. Completely different unit. The MT is a Mazda unit.
The V6 is a Duratec block with Mazda VVT Heads and Intake. The Duratec is one of the most reliable V6's ever manufactured. Designed for Ford by Porsche. It is bullet proof when maintained correctly. People confuse it with the Vulcan V6 in the base Taurus and Windstar. That engine is a Ford design. The AT in the 6s is a JATCO unit. Very reliable Japanese transmissions. The MT is a Mazda unit.
Mark. : )
I took my 2 week old 6i which has a dealer installed moon roof to a automated car wash. I was shocked to find that water seeps through the edge of the moonroof and collects in the tray that house the moonroof. There's enough water to fill half a cup!! The dealer tested it and agrees that it does leaks. They sent it back for service. However, when I collect the car, they says that no work was done as there's no problem. The tray is SUPPOSE to collect water and moisture. That is the design!! I got the feeling that it sounds like BS. They assure me the tray will not overflow unless I'm in a monsoon...
any advice is greatly appreciated.
So I was wondering if this is due to the AT's 'learning' feature? I've noticed this consistently for the past 2 days (4 occurences total). I'll probably get it checked out if it continues to happen. Just wondering if this is something wrong or just the way a new transmission behaves. My other theory is that when it's been parked for a while, all the fluids take a while to reach all parts of the transmission, so the first shift is rough. So has anyone else noticed this?
Has the Duratec block always been 100% AL or is that Mazda's design? Do either the 4 or 6 have timing belts or are they chains? If belts, what's the interval?
Stu
I'm positive (since so many people ask and reply) that both engines have metallic timing chains. As for the engine, AFAIK, yes, its always been Aluminium, the way Porsche developed it for Ford. Correct me if I'm wrong, someone.
Also, since you aren't really discussing problems, but questions/concerns any more, may I respecfully suggest we move the continuation of this discussion to the main Mazda 6 forum?
The service consultant at my dealer went on a ride with me and says it is "normal." He also took me on a test drive of another Mazda6 on the lot which did the exact same thing.
Luckily, the warranty is for 4yr/50K...