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Very quiet and smooth and tight.
In all about 50 test drives of almost every car you can think of.
I am a customer from hell and I put a few sales people through hell before I chose the Mazda.
In my opinion the best deal on the market.
Jason.
They are suppose to get what they need tomorrow and if that is the real problem, I guess that should not be a long term issue with the car?
So far not overly impressed with what Mazda is turning out in Flat Rock.
Car has been in the rain and no leak in trunk.
What kind of transmission do you have? Auto or Manual? Also is your car a V6 or I4? Any other specs so we can get a better idea so we don't think ALL Mazda6's might have transmission problems. Thanks.
Fixed and I expect no other problems. This is my eighth Mazda since 1980.
BTW, I'm currently driving a 5-speed '93 626 ES that I purchased new & it hasn't been the most reliable car I've owned, so I'll be purchasing a Mazda6S despite the fact that it's a Mazda.
I'm buying an automatic 6s *because* it's a Mazda. :-)
Given that the preponderance of messages here are "rattling sunglasses holder," things sound pretty good. The transmission problems were disappointing to hear about, but you're talking a couple of reports out of many, many cars.
They've all been just squeaks and rattles, and they've been eliminating them as they're discovered. Nothing serious at all.
On the other hand, another person saw a few 6's- some built in the USA and some in Japan- and felt the Japanese ones were better put together. There were some minor differences in the way seals were applied, etc., even though all the USA and Japan models were consistant with others from that country.
Surprisingly, it seems Honda owners have had worse complaints about the Accord. Mazda's release was like Toyota- the Camry is rock-solid, but initially had rattles, dropping Consumer Reports' rating.
Japan for everywhere else.
Without this data, we can't really say the Mazda 6 is of better quality. Could be that there are many more Accord owners, so you would expect a higher number of problems.
but I hope you are right, aromas.. as I am buying the 6 soooon!
I've had back problems all my life. I really expected to have tired-buns, or stiff shoulders from this drive and I did not!
I would say most people will be fine with these cloth seats. I had an Impala before with a bench seat as soft as a couch! My hubby really liked those comfy seats, but for support, they weren't that great.
Turned out to be a small exhaust system hose under the hood. Known problem with the first batch of V6 6s cars, and it didn't affect the car's running. The dealer popped the hose back on, and Mazda overnighted a redesigned hose/sensor. The next day they put that on, reset the CEL, and all has been fine since.
They're now using the redesigned part at the factory, so this shouldn't be an issue going forward.
I hope my car's OS was not written by Microsoft!
Just curious as someone reported the same thing about the software over on Mazda6club.com.
Anyhow the demo at the dealers, has some problems.
There is a humming noise coming from the dash, sounds like a vibrating flurescant lighting tube.
Also the engine light is on, good old ford duratec junky engines!
Jason.
Jason777 said this in this thread on January 27. Are you sure it's still humming after all this time, Jason? And the CEL is still on? Goodness.
By the way, about two weeks ago I posted that I had driven and would buy an Accord. Went back and drove another 6 and couldn't stand the thought of the Accord. So, I'll wait until I can get the appropriate 6s MT. Yeah!
I don't know if I ever mentioned that squeak- it happens when I rest my hand on the lid of the center compartment. The weight of my arm pushes the plastic latch down, which has just enough "play" in it that it will rub (hence squeak) when I go over bumps (thus vibrating the car slightly). It's another extremely minor problem.
Thought I'd mention that both of those problems went away once the weather went above 50 degrees, which explains how they could have not been discovered in the first place.
Amazing, this dealer has got to be the worst I have encountered, lets just say its in Ontario.
I had a ford explorer for 3 years (leased) just took it back, and right on time because the engine in that had problems.
Ford really needs to over haul it engines, the Japanese leave them at the starting post.
Jason.
The Ford dealers do a much better job at moving fords, even though they are much inferior cars.
Jason.
Any dealer too lazy/dumb to fix that -- on a car that they're using to sell people on the car -- would worry me.
1) A few isolated cases of rattles. (Sunglass holder, center console, dash, etc.) This is not common (not a single rattle on my 6s), and is going to happen on isolated vehicles with ANY car.
2) Check Engine Light issues. Known problem on a few cars, due to a hose design on the 6s and a software problem on the 6i. Both fixable in less than 20 minutes at the dealer, for free, and both now fixed on new cars coming off the line. Neither actually affects the car's running.
That's *IT*. Not bad at all for a totally new car design, and nothing that can't be fixed very quickly at the dealer under the 4-year, 50,000-mile warranty.
Hey, I had a Check Engine Light come on driving home from the dealer! But the resolution was quick and competent, and the car's been a load of fun since then.
I've read this once before, but can't find where I did.
Where is there any information on this "software bug"?
I really want this car, but yes the dealer does worry me.
I'll hang on until the end of March, if it doesn't arrive by then, I'll get something else.
Jason.
Heck, I drove 140 miles to get my 6s. No big deal at all.
Will ford service the car under warranty?
Jason.
I don't think Ford will service it under warranty, but here in the USA, you can take the car to ANY Mazda dealer for warranty service. I don't know if it works that way in Canada.
Now, I've reported here earlier that when I bought my car new, my speedometer would read 78mph at 3000rpm. It now reads 73mph at 3000rpm.
Being quite anal about my car, I wanted to calculate my highway mileage. However, since I was traveling a known distance, I calculated it two ways.
My odometer informed me that I had driven roughly 280 miles between fill-ups. I calculated the distance I had driven to be roughly 300 miles.
Interestingly, I multiplied 78/73 (my difference in speedometer readings) times 280 (miles my odometer read), which results in 299- about what I calculated my actual distance to be.
My conclusion? My speedometer did indeed fall out of wack.
Now, should I get this fixed? This means I'll eclipse 100,000 miles, yet have an odometer reading 93,000 miles. It'll deceivingly help resale value.
I got 10.3 gallons of gas. That means according to my odometer I got 27mpg and according to my physical calculations I got 29mpg. Either way, that's pretty poor for the 4cyl engine.
However, 2/3 of that was with the defroster accidentally on, and hence the A/C compressor. Furthermore, since I had the cruise set for 77mph, I was actually going nearly 83mph. Since I occasionally sped up to 85mph, that means I was actually going over 90mph. Not good for mileage.
That's a lot of statistics. Your thoughts?
My speedometer has changed in relation to my tachometer. In the same gear, it no long reads the same speed at a given RPM. It did this well before my new tires, but even so, this measurement has nothing to do with the tires since it is a measure of axle rotation (independent of tire size), not actual travel speed.
Differently sized tires (or tread wear) would throw my speedometer off though, you're right, and I did just get new 17" tires. However these tires have not made any change from my 16" tires. With both, I still read 73mph at 3000rpm, whereas when the car was new I would read 78mph. This change happened well before I got the new tires.
I used radar to confirm that 78mph at 3000rpm is a legit figure- it's accurate. Since my clutch is not slipping, either my tach or my speedo must no be reading correctly.
What I didn't expect was that my calculations show that the difference the speedometer is reading matched up EXACTLY with the difference in distance I calculated that I had driven.
78/73 * 280 = 299, whereas I estimated I actually travelled 300 miles on a tank, not 280.
So, again, my speedo is out of wack. I probably was driving over 90mph, not knowing it. My mileage sucked as a result. At least, I hope that's why. No wonder I made good time!
Anyway, I hope I get better than 29mpg in the future. And, if somehow I'm wrong about this and my speedo is correct (and my calculated distance wrong), then I got an even worse 27mpg.
This is with the 4cyl engine and manual tranny. It's rated for 32mpg highway.
I'm anal. When I first got the car, I was gentle on the engine during break-in. Consequently, I averaged over 30mpg in city traffic! I actually got 540 miles on one tank. After Mazda's recommended 600 mile break-in, I opened it up a few times and had some fun.
I've since not been able to break 30mpg.
Not that I should be getting over 30mpg in the kind of congested beltway traffic I drive in, but I had been, and I want to again.
Since I figure I'm getting about 24mpg city and 29mpg highway, there's nothing wrong with my car. It's in line with what the EPA says it is, but my first few fill-ups showed it capable of much more.
How does this relate to the speedometer being out of wack? I don't know how far I've driven! It's hard to be certain if my mileage is problematic!
Consequently, I love to hear about what kind of mileage others are getting. Three things seemed to happen after break-in: my mileage dropped, but my low-end torque clearly went up, and my speedometer went out of whack. All at the same time, and yet none really constitutes a real "problem" per say, as the car still sounds and feels great.
Jason.
he came with me for a drive and did here the rattle.
He said that they would have to take the door apart and put it back together again to fix the rattle.
Jason.