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Maybe you work for Acura and you know the inside scoop - sure sounds like it. However, my salesperson told me that he had received $17K from Acura as a bonus at year-end for prior year sales. I don't really have any questions regarding this - I was just pointing out reasons that a dealership would sell for less than the known invoice minus incentives minus holdback. It did not play into my decision as I was looking for a certain price point. I wish you all well in your purchases.
Hope this helps you.
My question is should I be paying these costs or are they negotiable? The car was priced about 1,000 higher than I had expected, basically because of this - I'm thinking of telling him remove the costs or I'm not interested but I'm not sure how common these are and if I can have them excluded.
Any thoughts are appreciated.
Use the internet to check other dealers in your area. Ask for their lowest out the door cost for the TL-S with the color / interior you want. Have the charges itemized so you know exactly what you are paying for.
It's your call if you want to go back to the dealer you were using and ask them to match the other offers. I would not.
When I bought my '05 TL in Boston area (at invoice), I wanted a base TL. No pro packs, vinyl roofs, pinstripes, spoilers, rust and dust, mop and glow, extended warranty. I had no problem buying such a car without any pressure to add such (to me) frivolities. However, YM, and region, MV...
Good luck.
'21 Dark Blue/Black Audi A7 PHEV (mine); '22 White/Beige BMW X3 (hers); '20 Estoril Blue/Oyster BMW M240xi 'Vert (Ours, read: hers in 'vert weather; mine during Nor'easters...)
I live in NJ and I was politely shown the door at the 3 dealerships in my area when I asked for these prices.
The lowest price I got was 28500 for the base TL(with splash guards, mats, locks) + dest + tax + doc fees.
Either I am missing something, or some people here are very persuasive.
Your comments?
Regards,
SC.
If you are going to pick the very lowest price reported in the forum, then expect to get that, then you'll likely be disappointed... If everyone could get the lowest price, then every post would have that price.. That doesn't mean that price wasn't legitimate.. they may have left some important detail out (trade involved, demo, etc..).. or, it might have been their lucky day... Maybe a greenpea salesman who needed a sale and the manager was having a good month and threw him a bone..
Or.. maybe that poster didn't include destination or the $599 doc fee on their sale.. :surprise:
If the majority of the posts say $28,300-$28,700, then picking the outlier price is not going to result in a very good success ratio.. (not that you shouldn't try)..
regards,
kyfdx
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I never make a deal in person. I go to a showroom and figure out exactly what I want including colors and options and then leave. I figure car salesmen make their living negotiating prices, and that I'd have better odds over the internet. I can also cover more dealers with hardly any effort.
It's my understanding dealers have to pay a "fee" for every car on their lot at the end of the month. The guy I bought my car from told me he gave me a good price because it was the end of their month (actually the April 24th)
There can be a huge difference in prices among dealers in an area. There was a $3,000 difference between two dealers in the Atlanta area.
Hope this helps,
Guido
IMHO, at $4.00 per gallon gas the demand for TLs is not going to pick up anytime soon. I'd expect a couple of months of demand when the 09 TLs are released and then demand will head back down. The way the economy and gas prices are looking, it's going to be a buyers market for anything with a 6 cylinder for at least the next year.
Therefore, the best prices should be approximately:
(Invoice, including dest.) - (Incentive to Dealer, currently $2500) - (Dealer Holdback, currently 2% of MSRP) - (SPINS, spiffs, etc., currently $100-300)
So the next time that a salesperson retorts that he/she cannot sell this car to you at that price because they will take a "loss", you know that they are feeding you a line of .... well, you know.
P,S, Time is also money. And the more time you spend on bargaining, the less return you are getting on your deal.
NJ Sales Tax was 7% + $350 (4 yr DMV) + 350 Doc fees. The other fees were around $14, one was a tire fee, and one other fee that I don't recall.
Hope this helps.
Regards,
SC.
There's my 2 cents. Hope that helps...
I knw i am kinda late to post this but this is what I got my Type S at the end of last month.
Total Price of the Vehicle(including Destination) - $ 32,544.67
Sales Tax (NJ 7%) - $ 2,278.13
triVIN On Line Reg. Fees (Mandatory) - $ 7.70
NJ Tire Fee (Mandatory) - $ 7.50
Registration Fees (Fixed) - $ 354.00
Doc. Fees - $ 258.00
Total - $ 35,450
I also got Locks, Floor Mats, and Trunk Mat.
I think I got a good deal, What you guys think?
Thanks.
Thanks,
-uu
Ya got to love end of month pricing...
I plan on financing a basic (non-navi) TL so I won't be eligible for the $2500 cash back. I have been quoted near $31.5k from three different acura dealers. Is this a comparable quote to the rest of you?
Likewise, the edmunds TMV lists $30.5k for my area but I don't know if that number considers the $2500 cash back.
Thanks in advance.
My last car was a 2001 Accord (EX, Manual, 4cyl) and I bought the extended warranty since my previous ride was a Chrysler that needed a new tranny at 45K. Since after 135K miles on the Accord, I never needed the extended warranty, I'm inclined to decline.
However, the only thing that makes me reconsider is the amount of extra stuff this car has that my Accord did not (Nav, Bluetooth, etc). Should I reconsider? I'm pretty confident the powertrain will not let me down, but it's the other stuff I'm worried about.
But, as always, if you can't sleep at night without the extended, buy it. But negotiatie the price, of course...
'21 Dark Blue/Black Audi A7 PHEV (mine); '22 White/Beige BMW X3 (hers); '20 Estoril Blue/Oyster BMW M240xi 'Vert (Ours, read: hers in 'vert weather; mine during Nor'easters...)