I had the same problem with the Driver's side window on my 92 TC. My mechanic replaced the window motor. Now my problem is, that the window works as normal some of the time. At other times, it will either go partially down or up. If I wait a couple of minutes or so, then it will work again. My mechanic said it seems to need a window Relay switch. I bought the switch for $10.00 at an auto store. Now my problem is finding out where it goes. There is no place for it to go in the fuse box under the dash or the one under the hood. Any ideas? Also both of my rear windows have also stopped working.
Hi, I have a 2000 Town car signature. Starting about 2 weeks, suddenly, I haven't heard any chirping sound when I lock the door with a remote button. I checked the manual and have done reprograming several times for an automatic door lock but still no chirping sound. Does anybody know how to make a chirping sound back ?
Help transmission down shifts “check trac” light comes on and temp. gauge drops to cold. Transmission seems OK but doesn’t want to shift properly. It’s a real pain and I have the feeling the dealer will have a field day!!! Turn off engine and restart every thing OK for a while then it happens allover again.
Not sure how to phrase this problem When the engine is cold it doesn't accelerate, it doesn't die it just won't speed up. Now it has started the same thing after it is warm. This doesn't happen all the time. Still when I'm going down the freeway at 70mph and suddenly it starts dropping speed to under 50 with my foot on the accelarater I get a little nervous. We have replaced all the plugs, wires, fuel filters and the fuel pump. Any ideas would be appreciated.
I have a 1999 TC and have developed a noise in the rear-end when bearing to the right at about 40MPH. The dealer has replaced the rear axles and bearings but this did not eliminate the noise. It sounds like low frequency humming or whirring sound. Any ideas? I thought it might have been related to wheel bearings but doesn't seem to be that either. The car has a new set of tires so that is elliminated. Thanks for any comments.
"The dealer has replaced the rear axles and bearings
It's my experience that the above process includes shims. Adjusting the shims in our rear axle after replacing the contents quieted the whirring sound.
I'm having the exact same problem you are having with my 2000 Town Car. The problem is intermintent, I can sometimes get it to go away by turning the key off and on a time or two. I'm getting way strange error codes on my code checker, often it says cylinder 4 misfire, and catalyist out of specs. but other codes come and go strangly. I suspect the key switch. Let me know if you figure this out. I need help! This one is really strange!
Hi, The car in question is a 96 Lincoln Towncar. When I turn on the ignition, it starts, but dies as soon as I let go of the gas pedal. However, after I called AAA, the guy held the gas pedal down for a couple of minutes, and it then worked - at least long enough for me to drive it to a garage.
The garage I took it to says it is the fuel pump and the entire sending unit.
They quote $350 for a used part, not including labor. But now they also told me there is an electrical short in the car and it might have caused it.
Two questions: 1. Does it sound like the right cause? 2. If it is the fuel pump and sending unit, do you think I could get those two items for less money than they quote by buying online? If so, where?
Thanks a lot - I don't understand much in cars so would be grateful for any advice. Paul
Paul, Try replacing the fuel pump relay. If that fails to work, try removing the relay center, and check the yellow and black wires that run underneath the relays. I had the same problem on my 95 TC, if you have a multi meter or a light tester, probe the wire until you find the break. Mine was about 6inchesfrom the relay center in the wire bundle. Took me about 15mins to find and repair. Barry
You can get parts cheaper online. Most shops add 20-25% or more. My fuel sytem problem was solved by a new main ground connector to the battery after they unnecessarily replaced the sending unit on my 93 tc.
My 97 Town Car has an alarm that activates on its own any time it wants. I've disconnected the horns to save embarrasment at 2am. I've checked the hood switch. It's adjusted perfectly. It will sound whether locked or not. 10 seconds after I'm out of it, to 5 hours. Right now I just want to dis-able it. Can't find a fuse for it, a wire to un-plug,or cut. Anyone know where to end this headache?
I have a Lincoln TC 01 that has trac off (the button doesnt even seem to work) and ABs light also on the dashboard. SOmeone mentioned to me it might be a sensor. A little background on the car I brought it with a crash hit on the Drivers side suspension I changed everything on the suspension and Im still having these warning lights
The air suspension is operating but will not hold up. It is going to burn up the pump, but hasn't (knock on wood)failed yet. The idea of replacing the air bladders is pricey. The steel coils are less costly, but I'm worried about the loss of comfort in the ride. I know it is old but there are no new cars that can come close to the quality of ride.Does anyone have an idea to help me make A decision? Thanks
Hi Papaa- Funny, I'm Papa to all the kids. Regarding your suspension problem: please go look at my message #318. It appears to be your problem exactly. I had my local mechanic put in coil springs and I cannot tell the difference in the ride. It's perfect. I would have never started changing the suspension parts if I had known about the coils. Do it!
My 97 Town Car has an alarm that activates on its own any time it wants.Locked or unlocked. I've disconnected the horns to save embarrasment at 2am. I've checked the hood switch. It's adjusted perfectly. It will sound whether locked or not. 10 seconds after I'm out of it, to 5 hours. Right now I just want to dis-able it. Can't find a fuse for it, a wire to un-plug,or cut.I've also taken the batteries out of my key FOB's. Anyone know where to end this headache?
I have a 1990 T/C 302 that has been giving me a bit of trouble starting (cranking over). I thought it was a battery, wich was changed and it is still cranking over hard as if the battery was dead. Battery was tested and is good, alternator is fine, connections have been cleaned etc. Could this be a starter issue? :shades:
I own a '96 TC and my trunk does not go all the way flush, with the car body. The motor does not activate, that I know for a fact. I wanted to know if theres a fuse or reset button for the motor overloading and tripping something with the hot lead only to the trunk pull down motor. It does lock manually but, again theres a 1in gap where the motor would take over. If anyone got any helpful tips that would be great, Thank you.......
The trunk motor has A diode that reverses the current to make the lock work in both directions. The electric and mechanical parts are probably okay. The solution that I know of is to go to A junk yard and retrive another one. Make sure you take along A battery source to try it before you attempt to take it out. This will save you alot of time and aggravation. Good Luck
I have a 94 Lincoln Town Car. It has close to 90K miles, and usually runs well. However, it has it's periods of difficulty.
Here goes, when speeding up or accelerating, when I get up to about 30 miles an hour, the car and steering wheel vibrates. This continues until I speedup to about 40 miles an hour, in which case the vibrating and shaking stops, but the car will still make a humming sound. This sound persists when I have my foot on the gas peddle, or when using the cruise control. When the car isn't accelerating, and not on Cruise, then everything is smooth and normal. Can anyone help me with what the problem may be or how to fix it?
Could be two different problems. The vibration of the steering wheel at certain speeds suggests a front end situation. Could be a bad tire, out of balance, or worn, loose suspension part(s). I'd have to hear where the humming is coming from to figure out what that could be.
We also have a 94 Towncar and as for the vibration and shaking, it is recommended you change the oil in the transmission and torque converter.
The humming sound may be the air bypass valve. Sometimes it can be cleaned, but it is usually replaced. It may go from humming to the sound of a ship's fog horn especially at cold outside temperatures.
Our TC has 133,000 miles and we've owned it since new. We have experienced both of your issues. Because the 94's did not have synthetic lubricant in the differential, it would be very wise to change the lube in that location as well.
My 2001 Town car has a heater problem. It started the other day. The heater wouldn't go on. We started driving down the road and could hear it going on and then off. Finally about 5 minutes later, it came on and stayed on. The next few times we've driven it, it would not come on at all. I thought it may be a faulty relay but couldn't figure out which one it may be (I only have the owners manual showing the fuse locations). This morning I drove my wife to work and after 20 minutes, it came on. I dropped her off and turned the car back on, no heater. Just as I was pulling into the driveway, it came on. It was cycling high and low on its own for about 15 seconds and then stayed on steady. Any ideas?? Thanks!!!!!
A thermostat that's not closing all the way can cause this, but so can very cold weather. An experienced technician can diagnose a stuck-open thermostat by watching the coolant flow as the engine warms up, but given the age of your Lincoln, simply replacing the thermostat and the engine coolant would be good preventive maintenance.
It's also possible the engine-coolant temperature sensor is getting "drifty" and sencing skewed readings. This can be diagnosed by comparing scan-tool readings with actual temperature readings. Hope this comment helps.
I have a 95 lincoln town car, I have no turn signal or brake lights and no hazards lights. Could this be the flasher gone bad. Where is the flasher located, I looked in the fuse panel not there. Could it be mounted on the steering column next to the switch.
This model may not have a seperate flasher unit under the dashboard. I know that on the 96 model when I had this same problem I had to have the turn signal unit on the steering wheel replaced. You might me able to get one at E-Bay. They are not difficult to replace.
In adddition to the other comments, have the blend door on the car checked. If the blend door is locked in the cold air positon you will not get heat. These doors have a sense of their own. When it is winter they stick in the cold position. When it is summer they stick in the heat position.
Out of desperation, of fear, facing an expensive repair bill, I did the following:
Opened all doors to vent the hot air, put one finger on the VENT button simultaneously pressing the AUTOMATIC button. Started de A/C, a few second later pushed the OFF button. Did this several times.
The last time, the A/C did not start but a lot of blue numbers showed rapidly in the display, changing from 25 to 125 and then only some dots blinked.
Then I heard a loud noise under the car floor and a sublime rush of cold air came through the vents...
I hope this will help some one with the problem in the future.May save them some bucks from an unneeded repair.
Hi. Did you ever figure out what the problem was with "Check Trac" light. My 2000 is having the same problem. The transmision feels like its skiping everytime the light turns on" Please let me know. my e-mail is ldowling@szacorp.com
Hi. Did you ever figure out what the problem was with "Check Trac" light. My 2000 is having the same problem. The transmision feels like its skiping everytime the light turns on" Please let me know. my e-mail is ldowling@szacorp.com
Maybe...The problem kept getting worse until the transmission destroyed itself. Cost $1,700 to get it rebuilt but the original problems were still there! I got computer fault codes all over the place, with the most common being a cylinder 4 misfire. I changed the ignition switch because turning the key off and back on would often clear the problems. Didn't help. I changed all the spark plugs. They looked good except that number 4 (right rear) was rusty on the outside. This didn't change anything. I then changed the number 4 coil and the problem seems to be gone! I'll know for sure when I get a few more days and miles on the car. The problem was so intermittent and strange that I don't trust that it's really fixed yet. The spark plugs are under the coils on the top of the engine in a very deep hole. It's possible the heater hose might leak water into number 4, but I found no such leak. Now I think the misfire was happening because of the rust on the spark plug and coil boot, although I found no moisture in the hole or anywhere on the top of the engine, but there had to have been moisture there sometime in the past to cause all the rust I found. All other spark plugs looked great. Was this causing the main computer to try and compensate for the misfire by making the car surge and the trac light come on etc.? And was this surging not just the engine misfiring but the transmission shifting in response to the rpm changes causing my transmission to destroy itself? How in the heck did the temperature gauge always go off when the trac light came on? The trac is not in the transmission but the rear end I think. I still get a code saying the emission catalyst is below standards but I don't know exactly what that means yet. Otherwise the car is back running like new. I recommend you get this car fixed ASAP and do not do like I did and keep driving it until the transmission is destroyed. Please let me know if your number 4 coil and plug is the problem. This is so very strange..... :confuse:
Comments
My mechanic replaced the window motor.
Now my problem is, that the window works as normal some of the time.
At other times, it will either go partially down or up.
If I wait a couple of minutes or so, then it will work again.
My mechanic said it seems to need a window Relay switch.
I bought the switch for $10.00 at an auto store.
Now my problem is finding out where it goes.
There is no place for it to go in the fuse box under the dash or the one under the hood.
Any ideas?
Also both of my rear windows have also stopped working.
I have a 2000 Town car signature.
Starting about 2 weeks, suddenly, I haven't heard any chirping sound when I lock the door with a remote button.
I checked the manual and have done reprograming several times for an automatic door lock but still no chirping sound.
Does anybody know how to make a chirping sound back ?
Transmission seems OK but doesn’t want to shift properly. It’s a real pain and I have the feeling the dealer will have a field day!!!
Turn off engine and restart every thing OK for a while then it happens allover again.
It's my experience that the above process includes shims. Adjusting the shims in our rear axle after replacing the contents quieted the whirring sound.
Replying to Message #511
I'm having the exact same problem you are having with my 2000 Town Car. The problem is intermintent, I can sometimes get it to go away by turning the key off and on a time or two. I'm getting way strange error codes on my code checker, often it says cylinder 4 misfire, and catalyist out of specs. but other codes come and go strangly. I suspect the key switch. Let me know if you figure this out. I need help! This one is really strange!
The car in question is a 96 Lincoln Towncar.
When I turn on the ignition, it starts, but dies as soon as I let go of the gas pedal. However, after I called AAA, the guy held the gas pedal down for a couple of minutes, and it then worked - at least long enough for me to drive it to a garage.
The garage I took it to says it is the fuel pump and the entire sending unit.
They quote $350 for a used part, not including labor. But now they also told me there is an electrical short in the car and it might have caused it.
Two questions:
1. Does it sound like the right cause?
2. If it is the fuel pump and sending unit, do you think I could get those two items for less money than they quote by buying online? If so, where?
Thanks a lot - I don't understand much in cars so would be grateful for any advice.
Paul
Try replacing the fuel pump relay. If that fails to work, try removing the relay center, and check the yellow and black wires that run underneath the relays. I had the same problem on my 95 TC, if you have a multi meter or a light tester, probe the wire until you find the break. Mine was about 6inchesfrom the relay center in the wire bundle. Took me about 15mins to find and repair.
Barry
Bill
Here goes, when speeding up or accelerating, when I get up to about 30 miles an hour, the car and steering wheel vibrates. This continues until I speedup to about 40 miles an hour, in which case the vibrating and shaking stops, but the car will still make a humming sound. This sound persists when I have my foot on the gas peddle, or when using the cruise control. When the car isn't accelerating, and not on Cruise, then everything is smooth and normal.
Can anyone help me with what the problem may be or how to fix it?
Thanks
THANKS
The humming sound may be the air bypass valve. Sometimes it can be cleaned, but it is usually replaced. It may go from humming to the sound of a ship's fog horn especially at cold outside temperatures.
Our TC has 133,000 miles and we've owned it since new. We have experienced both of your issues. Because the 94's did not have synthetic lubricant in the differential, it would be very wise to change the lube in that location as well.
the engine coolant would be good preventive maintenance.
It's also possible the engine-coolant temperature sensor is getting "drifty" and sencing skewed readings. This can be diagnosed by comparing scan-tool readings with actual temperature readings. Hope this comment helps.
E-Bay. They are not difficult to replace.
Even pushing the Vent button, I only get a rush of hot air.
Please help!
Out of desperation, of fear, facing an expensive repair bill, I did the following:
Opened all doors to vent the hot air, put one finger on the VENT button simultaneously pressing the AUTOMATIC button. Started de A/C, a few second later pushed the OFF button. Did this several times.
The last time, the A/C did not start but a lot of blue numbers showed rapidly in the display, changing from 25 to 125 and then only some dots blinked.
Then I heard a loud noise under the car floor and a sublime rush of cold air came through the vents...
I hope this will help some one with the problem in the future.May save them some bucks from an unneeded repair.