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I asked the dealer that question about uneven tire wear I read on this forum before I made the purchase. He told me that's caused by driving at access height. I guess I will soon find out if that's true or not.
I have chimmed in previously regarding my uneven tire issues on my 05 V6 SE. My advice to you would insist that LR take care of this for you under warranty. They have replaced all 4 of my tires two times now and the camber was stated as the problem which caused the wear. It is NOT a Goodyear issue as much as it is an LR3 issue with the camber. Sorry you are having the frustration but believe me, I understand. My LR3 has under 13K. Good luck!
That is, well, complete BS what they are telling you. I was an LR Sales Guide for 3 years and involved with LR for 2 years prior to that on a national level and that answer is simply unacceptable. Why would LR develope a vehicle with Access height capability if it has a negative impact on the vehicle. Not only that but the vehicle does have safe guards against driving for long periods in access height and speed restrictions. That is not an answer. I have had these issues two on my LR3 with under 13K and I am saddend by the responses that some are getting from their centers. Be persistant with them and don't be afraid to get LRNA on the phone. Sorry for your problems.
Anyway, the jacks just work. Default is AUX, which if you are not using... will not make any sound. Press the Mode button on each headphone control to cycle between radio and CD; long press selects AUX.
Read your Audio Handbook, the "Rear Audio Controls" section.
I got a pretty good deal for an '06 (well below MSRP), but agreed to not post the figures here. I'm in Denver. I'd be happy to refer anyone to my contact person to work a similar deal if they email me directly or reply with their email.
LOVE THE STYLE, LOVED THE CAR AT FIRST. NOW REGRET BUYING IT.
TRANSMISSION IS THE WORST OF ANY PREMIUM CAR I'VE OWNED. LAND ROVER SAYS "IT'S VARIABLE AND IT'S GETTING TO KNOW YOU". NONSENSE. IT HARSHLY JUMPS INTO GEAR ALL THE TIME WHEN YOU COME TO A STOP/ROLL, THEN ACCELERATE. BAM. HORRIBLE. MY CLIENTS LOOK AT ME AS IF THE CAR IS BROKEN.
6750 MILES AND SUSPENSION LIGHT JUST CAME ON.
WHAT NEXT?
NOW I REGRET BUYING THE CAR THAT I INITIALLY LOVED. :mad:
Now if you lock the suspension at access height then you could drive around for sometime at slightly higher speeds. Everytime you break that 10 mph limit it will warn you and give you time to slow back down. You could drive around at access height for sometime constantly bumping up against the limit set by the computer then slowing back down.
As to the trannsmission clunkingb well the tranny is adaptive and if you drive with a light foot normaly and then sometimes slam on the gas it will shift strangely trying to compensate.
The clunk that comes from doing a california or rolling stop with the LR3 is present on most of them with varying degrees of severity. The LR3 with a driver, full tank of gas and a couple of passengers weighs three ton or more and that is a lot of inertia. Then think about the four wheel drive system with all of its rotational mass and unsprung mass. Everytime you do a rolling stop that rotational mass has to get moving again and it can sometimes cause a shudder.
The LR3 transmission also shifts into neutral to save gas when idling so during a rolling stop it is probably already shifted into neutral. Now you slam the gas on and the tranny tires to get back into drive and then reaccelerate all of the LR3's mass at the sametime. Thats where you get the clunk from.
Just don't do rolling stops they are a bad idea anyway and all it takes is one time for somebody to hit you because you did a rolling stop.
OK my right side 2nd & 3rd row rear audio controls work, but my 2nd & 3rd row rear audio controls on the left side do not work. Take it to the dealer? :confuse:
D'oh! Yep. Hopefully, something simple... (the controls/jacks are wired to the Logic 7 amplifier, to my knowledge.)
for suspension problem wont reset from extended mode and flashes reset to new height waiting to cool but car is between access and normal height lr is puzzled
so my feeling just droped from love to like, lets hope
it doesn't change to hate. has any one had this problem?
There have been cases of faulty air compressors, especially in early builds. You might also have a bad sensor if it goes into Extended Mode... or a bad wiring loom.
I installed the metal door seal plates the other day... they look really nice as they have the Land Rover insignia on the edge and will protect the painted area when entering and exiting.
Happy Rovering! Mark156
I got 16 MPG on my first 220 miles, including stop and go, lots of city use, and 2 climbs up and down Flagstaff mountain near Boulder Colorado where it was steep and twisty and you had to slow for each curve. Also had some dirt road travel too. The tires are set to 33 psi front and 42 rear as per the door label.
I then took it over Guanella Pass near Georgetown. Got it stuck trying to climb up through deep snow, forgot I had the locking rear differential and I didn't raise it up. Just backed out and had no problem. Seems like the MPG on this tank will be 20 or more based upon the miles so far, the gas gauge now, and the trip computer. I know it can change, but we'll see.
I loaded CD's into the player. I'm not an audiophile but I think the system sounds great. I did have slightly weak reception in the mountains though. I think some people like to whine or are overly critical.
To slide mine open, I press the back of the switch once to tilt open, then again to slide open. To close it I push the front of the switch once to slide closed but still tilted up, then hold this switch to close the tilt.
Can anyone else close their roof with just one or two pushes of the switch as described in the manual?
Well I tried it on mine, and there is no delay. I released the parking brake automatically by shifting to reverse and applying throttle. It beeped within a second or two because I was positioned just out of range from my wife's car and it reached continuous beeping at about a foot away.
My build date was Feb. 06.
Side post in MPG numbers.
I dropped off a LR3 V8 service loaner for a customer of mine a few days ago. According to the trip computer I got 16.8 mpg for about a 50 mile trip. My average MPH was around 40 mph.
I talked to one of my customers this past Friday who recently completed a 500 mile one way trip to visit family down south. He got 17.8 mpg going down and used cruise control at just over 70 mph the whole way. His return trip was about the same as well.
He had the car loaded up too. Wife, three kids and himself plus a bunch of luggage.
Tire pressure discussions- note there are 2 options: MAX load and NORMAL load. You will find the 2 different readings on the back of the QUICK REFERENCE GUIDE. DO NOT use MAX load PSI for an empty vehicle, your tires will not wear evenly!
I performed my own oil change @11,000 to avoid the long drive and wait at the dealer. I like to make sure it's good and drained too, sometimes dealer service are in a hurry. The 8 bolts to remove protective tray and the 2 to remove the tray covering the oil filter in the front were very easy to remove, but obviously more time consuming than anything. It took a little more than 7 1/2 quarts. 8 would have been too much.
Runs great! :shades:
The dealer is trying to sell me a LR3 V8 SE and aside from a couple grand off MSRP, they are willing to throw in the running boards and metal/chrome trim or wood trim, whichever I choose. With the Bonatti grey, the metallic trim looks stunning.
Then I got into the XC90 V8 and it accelerated like a monster. Loud, snarly V8 catapulted this car down the highway. I have to say though, the LR3's ride was more planted, more stable and I was not completely comfy in the XC90 either. they are close, though and it boils down to what I like more because price wise they are close.
Decisions, decisions! The sensible man in me, the mor elogical says XC90. I have owned a Volvo before, I ilked the experience, it is a good vehicle and does carry some panache. The emotional side of me says that the LR3 is the truck for me. It looks so much better, has real panache/presence and has a little more space inside. It is a cool vehicle whereas the XC90 looks like a jacked up wagon.
It's tough. The dealer says I will always have a loaner, X-Types or Freelanders and my only reservation is reliablity.
I like Volvo Cars because they feel solid in my opinion the XC90 just is not as solid as it should be being a volvo. That platform has been stretched too much to become a 7 passenger SUV.
The center console read-outs are hard to see in the sun in the Volvo, I have not noticed that problem with my LR3.
I have never owned a Volvo or Land Rover. My brother has a 2003 Discovery and has not had one lick of trouble in the "almost" 50,000 miles that he has owned it. So, I felt comfortable in the reliability. I think every brand can have a lemon so I was not worried about the Land Rover or Volvo. Also, the stretched S80 chassis for the Volvo XC90 had me concerned, why use a stretched car frame for a truck?
I am extremely happy with my LR3 HSE.... I'm driving it to Los Angeles this weekend so I plan to drive over all of those slow-moving Prius's in the HOV lane! LOL! :mad:
Happy Roving... Mark156
You can also see this in the Lexus RX/Toyota Highlander crossovers. The pay load capacity is only about 900 lbs the last time I checked and it might have changed some so don't hold me to that exact number. It doesn't take much to get 900 lbs into a mid-size SUV. Two 200 lbs adults up front and three 100 lbs kids in the back and you better hope you aren't carrying more then a 200 lbs of luggage.
I noticed, since the LR3 was new, that when I open a door or use the key fob to unlock the vehicle, the LR will make a "wushing" sound from the air suspension. I feel like I have a space craft or something! LOL! The suspension seems to be working just fine as it will raise and lower flawlessly.
3510 miles and Roving right along!
Mark156
I had one of my customers call me once asking why his car was "farting." Where he tends to park his car the ground is not level so when he gets out he car trys to auto level itself against the unlevel ground.
I agree, if you plan to go off road then don't consider all the cross over vehicles.
As for off road tires, I did a lot of looking into that. That is a major reason I did not buy an HSE - the HSE has 19 inch tires and 19 inch off road tires are even harder to find than 18 inch ones for the SE. Please see my post number 2260 where I listed what I found for the 18 inch size.
I was planning to go with the Nittos as soon as I bought my SE but because some people are complaining about tire wear I decided to wait a little while to see if my SE has a tire wear problem. If it does it will be a lot easier to address with the dealer with the original tires than it would be with the Nittos.
I did take my SE over to Discount Tire and bought the road hazard warranty on the tires that it came with. At least now if I shred one, I'll get a free replacement. The fine print says it doesn't cover them off road, but I won't tell them I was off road. And I don't think they hold you to that anyway. When I bought the warranty, it included free balancing so I rebalance all the tires and removed the outer wheel weights and put stick on ones behind the spokes. I'll do the full size spare after the next tire rotation.
Regards,
Tom
also anyone try mounting a winch up front
So, can someone take a look at their non North American LR3 and see if they have a solenoid there, see if those are the colors of the wires, and find out the part number of the solenoid (and bracket) if this is all correct?
One more thing, if all we're missing is the solenoid, if we plug it in will it work or is there special programming that needs to be done to activate the wiring. Since there's only two wires, then either the solenoid grounds on it's housing and the 2 wires are for lock and unlock, or, one of them is lock, the other is ground, and it unlocks via a spring (or visa versa). British Rover can you check any of this out for us? If I knew what type of signal to expect from these two wires upon lock or unlock I'd be happy to test them on my truck and post the result. (i.e. which wire gets pulsed or goes hot upon lock/unlock and what voltage).
Like the motion sensors in the LR3 as far as our techs knew they were there until they put the first Rosen DVD player into an LR3 because you have to open up the part of the headliner where the motion sensors are and there is nothing there.
I'm going to see if the dealer can adjust the height of the rear. I did notice a small black cylinder about 2 inches long and 2 inches tall, with a black tube coming out of the bottom mounted in the left rear fender well on the back of the tail light (it hard to see). This same type of tubing runs to an air suspension component inboard of the left rear air spring. If the cylinder is a sensor maybe if I lower it an inch it will cause the system to raise the truck an inch to compensate. I suspect it's just a vent and it's position won't affect the height. Does anyone know?
Has anyone had their height adjusted by the dealer?
Has anyone checked their clearance like me?
To my knowledge, North America uses a different frequency. 315 Mhz? So, odds are it wouldn't work. But feel free to get the part and try. The same is probably true for the MIA motion sensors...
As you can't siphon gas from the tank (it's blocked), a locking fuel door would only give you mild protection from "casual" vandals... it's easily broken open.
Made an appointment at my local LR dealer and they told me it was either 7,500 miles or 6 months. Well, I've had my LR3 for six months so it was time for the regular maintenance.
Also, there are two recalls (silent). One is for the ignition switch where in some vehicles, apparently, a person could pull the key out without the LR being in Park. I don't think I had the problem but, then again, I never checked for it. Also there was an update for the computer where they had to "flash-it" and install an updated version.
I also had the dealer replace the sunvisor holders where they clipped at the headliner. The cover for the screws on both sides would not stay closed. So, they replace them.
I was very pleased with my local dealer as it is not the dealer where I purchased. I'm keeping the LR3 at my other home 1,800 miles away.
M156
After much feedback, Land Rover re-engineered the PDC logic to immediately activate when dropping below a specific speed.
The update can be installed on vehicles that have the old logic -- customes just need to say their PDC isn't working all the time. Now, of course, some people complain it works too much... :shades:
I guess I assumed the two wires were for the lock or unlock signal. I never considered the actuator works via radio. I'll ask my dealer about it but I suspect I won't get much of an answer. Maybe with this info, someone else who wants a locking cap more than I do, will work on it.
I called my service guy yesterday and he told me there was no adjustment procedure. So I have saved your reply.
I have looked over the height again and now think that the rear chassis is at the right height but the exhaust pipes pass below it at a lower level than they need to. At the lowest point of my exhaust pipe, it is about an inch lower than the bottom of the chassis in the rear next to the pipes. It looks like there is room for them to have tucked them up higher. I need to look at a few othe LR3's, then, if they tuck higher, I'll have them adjust or replace my exhaust pipes. Do your exhaust pipes drop an inch lower than the chassis? I'm relieved that my air suspension appears to be the right height and it's just an exhaust pipe issue.
Then, I pulled it out of a warm garage one morning and it began dropping to the ambient air temp. Around 39 degrees F it chimed and got the snowflake. Then continued to about 32 when I parked it. Later that day, when I restarted it, it was about 60 degrees out but the temp read 32 on startup and took hours and multiple restarts to get back to almost 60, never quite making it.
It has repeated this sequence again, this time starting at 60, dropping to low 40's and returning to 70's.
It seems to drop fairly quickly as the sensor cools, but does not warm up correctly. It didn't act like that the first week.
Anybody have a similar problem that was fixed? How?
Do you know where the sensor is?
Is there a way to reset the system without a trip to the dealer? Thanks.
Another thing; I have this clicking that sounds like it is coming from the left side of the dash when driving at any speed over 40. It is a constant dull "tick". Almost like a clock. They can't reproduce this either. Anyway, I have been a Land Rover Guy for years; so quirks in the LR3 are expected.
Any advice would be cool.
Sorry, no idea about your dash clicking...