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'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
# replace cylinder head (leaking combustion at spark plug hole bank 2)
# replace valve cover gasket - i guess this is default when you replace a head
Posted image of the top
link title
I think a new head is like $700 bucks but then you have to do a valve job--that's just a bare head. But still, if you can get in under $2K, that's cheaper than buying some crapola used car for $2K.
This presumes your car is otherwise in pretty nice shape. If your crate also needs tires, a windshield, bodywork, paint, etc.---then nah, let 'er go.
If it were me I'd junk the car and use the $8K I would've spent on repairing it on a new or newer used vehicle, course YMMV.
And who quoted the $1600---the shop or is this grandpa's best guess?
You should figure that the actual market value for this car is about $4000, so he'd have to sell it to you for less than $2400 to make this worthwhile. A "family price" might be more like $1500.
All this presumes the car is basically clean with no body damage, rust or ripped interior or broken glass, etc.
I brought it into the dealer and the mechanic for quotes. I'm not even going to bother mentioning the ridiculous quote from the dealer. The mechanic quoted $1,642 in repairs. It needs a new timing belt, catalytic converter, engine mount torn, hood support pads, and a new seatbelt buckle. It might also need sway bar bushings and possibly have an engine leak (dealer saw it, mechanic didn't). The dealer said I also need a power steering flush.
There is a big scratch on the front bumper, peeling paint on the back bumper and the paint is off by the side mirrors. The driver seat has a rip in it and the back seat is scuffed. Otherwise, the mechanic and dealer both thought the car was in good condition to drive.
I'm unsure what to do. It wouldn't be worth it to buy the car for $3,000+ repairs. But, I also don't have the money to get something better. With $3,000, possibly $4,000 for a car, I would end up with a clunker no matter what. On the other hand, gas is a lot more expensive on a Lexus.
But again, a timing belt and catalytic converted at 72,000 miles seems unusual to me.
From my limited point of view, I'm not liking this deal very much at the moment.
Thanks.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
T-belt is definitely appropriate. It is rubber and should have been changed long ago just based on age. It is a ticking bomb at the moment.
Cat is a bit odd, though, I agree. Wonder if that's for real.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
IMM, that would depend on how they determined that the cat was bad. If was just throwing the "catalytic converter efficiency low", or whatever that OBD code is (P0420?), could just be the downstream O2 sensor. Of course, that would depend on whether a '96 Lexus had an OBD2 system in it in the first place.
Maybe dgal can get some answers over there.
Also, a link at the top right hand of the forum page..
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'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
Good Luck.
The mechanic said it was the catalytic converter that turned on the engine light. I guess I can call him and ask why. I really don't know anything about cars. I had thought my Grandfather was maintaining it, but I don't think he new it needed any problems. He didn't drive it to often.
The total Repair Costs would be $2,223. Without getting the Steering Flush, Valve Cover and Catalytic Converter (not serious) would be $1,148.
Now that I have all the estimates, I would greatly appreciate opinions on whether it is worth it to put all the money into car. Thanks in advance!!
It's a '97 Lexus ES300 with 72,000 miles, in average condition.
Edmunds.com Appraises trade in value as $2,636 and private party $3,095
Valve cover gasket is an easy job, too.
The catalytic is definitely the most expensive. You might call around for other estimates on that from muffler shops. Another place might weld in a universal replacement for you that would be significantly cheaper.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
I find this a bit hard to believe...you could take that bar and throw it away and the car would drive fine.
One of my kids had had this happen on 2 different cars they have driven.
After it was fixed, I knew what to look for and could see they were bent on vehicle #2.
Ya know, I thought that's what you were saying, but that's so odd I assumed you really meant the endlinks, which commonly fail.
In any case, the bushings are easy, too. 2 brackets with 2 bolts each and the new bushings will be split, so you lube them up and slip them over the bar and bolt the brackets back on.
Here is a writeup with pics. OF course, if you don't have any tools, its probably not cost effective to do yourself.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S