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To Fix Up or Trade Up, That is the Question

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Comments

  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 26,305
    well, what other maintenance are you looking to do? If you've replaced the oil with synthetic every 5k, then you have avoided the major issue with these, which is sludge. And you've done the timing belt, so you are good there. Did you also happen to have the water pump and tensioner done at that time?

    I don't see anything wrong with continuing to drive it. Keep up with the oil changes. If you haven't done so already, you should swap the fuel filter and spark plugs. Also change the coolant and trans oil.

    '10 Equinox LS; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '14 Town&Country Limited; '18 BMW X2. 49-car history and counting!

  • merckxmerckx Posts: 565
    Thanks for the reply...when the timing belt was done,i asked for a new water pump,too....and i assume therefore they changed the coolant....

    but i've never had the brakes and brake fluid changed...never changed plugs or plug wires or had any kind of tuneup.....

    my dealer does the oil for free.....at 125,000 miles,they wanted to do about $3,5000 worth of work.....which got me wondering if i should do at least something..

    for the last 2 years,the CEL light has been on...car drives fine and milage has not been affected...one independent said a few vaccum hosed SHOULD get the light off....another independent advised me to ignore light...that all he could do was "throw parts at it" until light came off.

    I hear of some Passats going very high milage....I know it's not worth much,and even less with the body work not done...i'm just wondering what i should do to keep the car going beyond 130,000 miles..
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 26,305
    Well, what is the code of the light??

    Wait a sec.... never had brakes. You are at 130k on original brake pads??! That would be pretty amazing. Unless you drive like 100 miles a day and only have to apply the brakes when you arrive at your destination.

    What is this $3500 list of repairs? If you break it down for us, maybe we can help you with what is or is not necessary.

    You don't HAVE to change brake fluid, but it is a good idea. So that's all of $79 at an indy mechanic. Another $79 for the trans. Maybe $300 for a comprehensive tune-up. The CEL concerns me. You wouldn't pass inspection in my state with that on. You need to know the code. I don't see how they can't narrow it down with the code. My money would be on the o2 sensor personally.

    '10 Equinox LS; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '14 Town&Country Limited; '18 BMW X2. 49-car history and counting!

  • lemmerlemmer Posts: 2,699
    Based on long term road tests in Road & Track, a lot of cars can make it past 100k on their original brake pads.

    I had an Acura Integra that I purchased new for my wife that still had the original pads all around at 106K when I totalled it. She now has a Honda Pilot that has 76K of mixed driving on the original pads.
  • merckxmerckx Posts: 565
    The code came up as a vaccum leak,I believe....I do remember an indedendent saying VWs were very sensitive about the hoses....I've driven it two years on it...

    Yes,the brakes have not yet been done... The dealer mentioned a lot things...Cv boots, VEREY minor oil leak at front cover....just all kinds of stuff...As things stand,the car still drives great...I just don't want to cause a premature death...
  • fezofezo Manahawkin, NJPosts: 10,376
    You're killing me here! If I get thinking I could trust a VW to be like that I'd be buying one. My experience was, shall we say, not quite up to that standard....

    That said, at this point if I were you I'd probably do the work and keep going with the car!
    2015 Mazda 6 Grand Touring, 2014 Mazda 3 Sport Hatchback, 1999 Mazda Miata 2004 Toyota Camry LE, 1999.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 20,225
    I'm amazed. VW's are usually nothing but trouble!
  • merckxmerckx Posts: 565
    I am,too....The car came with a 2 year warranty,and after 3 years,the cloth inserts in all four doors delaminated....They are very floppy,like a sagging headliner. i was amazed that VW wouldn't fix them...That was a bummer....

    But other than that,the car has been amazing....And it's really fun to drive....It's been my most fun car ever....
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 20,225
    Maybe that's the way to get a VW to be reliable?

    Just skimp on the maintenance!
  • steverstever Posts: 52,462
    Every time I "tune" my car up, the mpg decreases. Then something else crops up. I mostly try to ignore them. Maybe that's why I've only had 4 cars since 1982?
  • jipsterjipster Louisville, KentuckyPosts: 5,738
    It's stories like yours that make me nervous about going in to get a tune-up on my 101k miles Regal, Steve. It's running fine... $189 from dealership to replace 6 plugs.. tough call. :sick:
  • steverstever Posts: 52,462
    The nice thing about computers in cars is that they'll adjust to compensate for the spark plug gap. I think the original platinum plugs on my van were changed out a bit early at 120k. :shades:

    With those four cars, I had to get help from a passing mechanic on one occasion when my Voyager wouldn't start after sitting for a couple of days in the dead of winter in the middle of nowhere. Another time I was late for a lunch meeting across town and had to grab a cab when my Tercel died (I really froze that day walking 2 long blocks to a 7/11 to find a phone). Got a ride back and it started right back up.

    Good luck with the Regal!
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 20,225
    Yu could probably do those yourself if you have the right tools.

    You'll need a good 3/8th ratchet with a swival head, the correct spark plug socket and probably a 3 inch and a 6 inch extention.

    Then you'll have 75.00 invested in tools you'll probably never use again!
  • jipsterjipster Louisville, KentuckyPosts: 5,738
    You could probably do those yourself if you have the right tools

    Yeah, I thought about that. I use to change the plugs on an old Chevy Nova I use to own... piece of cake. Can't find much info on the internet on how to change the plugs in a Buick Regal though. Someone mentioned tilting the engine up to get to the back plugs... it's extremely tight and you would need Olive Oil hands to get back to them. With the extensions, it looks to me that I would need something about a foot or two long... to get that middle plug. I'm sure Buick probably has a special set of tools that cost $189... the price of a tune-up. :sick:
  • puffin1puffin1 Posts: 276
    I drive a BMW and a Lexus IS (wifes car) However, our Home Depot car is a TDI 2010 VW Golf. VW's are alot better and the cabin with multi level heated seats plus Bluetooth is great. I think it really beats a Civic. We tried the civic but didn't have a lumbar support and steering wheel controls. This V Dub gets better milage than most Hybrids. Free oil changes and maintence 3 years.
    It's a small Audi try one. I tried the 5 spd Golf and what a pocket rocket 2.5 liter and better milage than a Mazda.
    Not knocking Honda's owned 3 InTegs and an Acura Type S and a TL.
    VW has finally got it together. :shades:
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 20,225
    " VW has finally got it together"

    I guess time will tell.

    Drive one 100,000 miles and let us know how much trouble you had.
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    Maybe those plugs weren't made to be changed. You could also trade that Regal for this one.

    image
  • jipsterjipster Louisville, KentuckyPosts: 5,738
    Maybe those plugs weren't made to be changed. You could also trade that Regal for this one

    LOL. I actually thought about that. My old Regal could probably pay for the wheels and tires on a new Regal. That would only leave me with about $26k to go to buy the rest of the car. Doable, but don't know if I want to go that high. I saw the 2011 Regal at the new car show a few months ago, and was very impressed. Has a much more European look to it... really sharp. This Regal would definitely be the one to buy though if I were looking to spend $28k..
  • delthekingdeltheking Posts: 1,152
    wait a couple of years and maybe you could buy it for half the price `cos Buicks depreciate horribly !!! ;) :P
  • srs_49srs_49 Posts: 1,394
    When I replaced the plugs on my wife's '02 Outback wagon with the H6 engine, I had to use every ratchet, swivel head, extension, and spark plug socket in my collection to get to all 6 plugs and coil packs. I think it was like 13 different items. And that was after removing the battery, fresh air intake plenum, and the inside wheel well panels :shades: .
  • srs_49srs_49 Posts: 1,394
    Sometimes on those types of engines, a second set of hands works wonders. One set coming down from the top to position the ratchet, and another set of hands coming up from under the engine to work the ratchet.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 20,225
    Very true! A three year old Buick can be a tremendous value and a lot of car for the money!
  • lemkolemko Philadelphia, PAPosts: 15,306
    I'm reminded of the phrase "There's nothing as old as yesterday's high-tech."
  • lemkolemko Philadelphia, PAPosts: 15,306
    Wonder if he's this guy?

    link title
  • lemmerlemmer Posts: 2,699
    I was looking at a 1997 Mercedes SL500 and you could push a button to reveal a panel of big ugly phone stuff. I bet that was a great selling point back then, but about state of the art as an eight track player now.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    Theoretically, one day we will reach Technical Singularity, which essentially means that technology will progress at such a rapid rate that by the time you get your new car home from the showroom, no one will remember how, or have the tools or parts, to fix it. :P
  • lemmerlemmer Posts: 2,699
    I think I'll just get a bike at that point. Maybe a nice three wheeler with a big basket in the back like my grandmother used to have.
  • hpmctorquehpmctorque Posts: 4,600
    I wonder whether the new 7 is much better, in terms of reliability.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    It had better be, with publicity like that. :surprise:
  • hpmctorquehpmctorque Posts: 4,600
    I imagine BMW has taken measures to address the previous points of weakness, but offsetting that is the greater complexity of the new 7s. That's why I'm wondering what the net result is. I suppose only time will tell. I wouldn't want to be one of the guinea pigs, though, even if I could afford such a car. Not only wouldn't I trust it, but I wouldn't want to reward their record with that model.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 20,225
    Break
    More
    Wallets

    If anyone thinks the 7 Series are bad (and they really are!) they should check the repair records of an old 8 Series with the 12 cyl engines!
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Posts: 3,425
    If you were to choose Euro, which of the following & models would you pick?

    BMW

    MB

    Jag

    Thanks as your opinions are respected. E
  • tomcatt630tomcatt630 Posts: 124
    The way so called 'enthusiasts' talk, it's as if any import luxury car 'never breaks down and lasts forever'. But, these folks go on and on about 'new designs', so they don't own them long enough to see them fall apart. :P
  • jchan2jchan2 Posts: 4,956
    What's interesting is that before the second owner got hold of the car, only 1 of the original owner's repair bills went over $1000 if I read the page correctly.

    That is a staggering amount of repairs and complaints though for a car with less than 60,000 miles on it. The first owner probably dumped it and moved on after realizing that things weren't going to get any better.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    Oh I think my friend spent at least $30,000 in repairs on his '98 750iL over the years.
  • delthekingdeltheking Posts: 1,152
    Is that a typo or what ?? 30k or 3k?? Boy,if that`s 30k --then what a waste of money !! ;)
  • lemkolemko Philadelphia, PAPosts: 15,306
    That might describe a Lexus LS, but even they have their weaknesses. Bad leather, failing instrument panels, and faulty power steering pumps are a few.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    No typo. I remember flipping through bills from the dealer for $3K--$4K each one.

    He still has the car, keeps in out back for a loaner for guests. Now the dashboard is out---you can't read any instruments. Dealer quote was something like $3500. He said "enough" and just drives it blind. I think the gas gauge works and some of the warning lights. The radio works but you can't see any of the stations. Brake light warning is constantly on, nobody can fix that apparently. Check engine light constantly on, nobody can fix that (for more than a week). Many interior trim pieces have fallen off, all the weatherstrip is cracked on the outside. License plate bracket fell off. Has oil leak somewhere, nobody can fix that.

    Still drives great, though! :D

    And this was a well-cared-for, garaged automobile. About 80,000 miles.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 20,225
    Out of those three choices, I would lean toward the BMW as long as it was a 3 or a 5 series.
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Posts: 3,425
    Thank you!
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    Did you know that the MAF for a LS400 retails for $1500? One thing for sure you can't throw parts at that one.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    edited May 2010
    HEADLINES!

    Man saves $1416 on Edmunds.com!!
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    LMAO!!

    I'd be a little concerned ordering parts from Mattys Auto Parts and Paint Inc more so since they are in Jersey. There's a few for sale on ebay but the problem remains to either tie up the car waiting for parts or ordering from the local Lexus dealership.
  • jchan2jchan2 Posts: 4,956
    There was his problem right there- going to the BMW dealer for work is probably a quick way to clean out your own wallet.

    Did he not find an independent to work on the car after he took delivery? I almost would find the mechanic before buying the car.

    For a car with 80,000 miles, that is a rather long list of faults.
  • jchan2jchan2 Posts: 4,956
    I am seriously considering purchasing a 2008 Volvo S40 T5 from a Volvo dealer. The car has 9,000 miles on it and is currently in use as a service loaner, but I think I would be the first registered owner.

    Should I be worried the first 9,000 miles of the car's life was essentially spent as a rental car?
    The dealer has said they will sell me the car for $24,965, but I believe I can open the bidding lower and close in the $22,000-$23,000 range, which is within the book value for the car in "excellent" condition.

    Thoughts?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    My opinion is that people who normally screw up cars don't have a rental car long enough to screw it up wheres people who take care of cars can't do a rental car any harm.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 26,305
    I've had a couple of ex-rentals. As long as the car is in nice shape when you buy it, it will be fine. No worse than any other used car.

    '10 Equinox LS; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '14 Town&Country Limited; '18 BMW X2. 49-car history and counting!

  • I have a 98 intrigue with 77+k miles on it. I am not really a DIYer. In order to pass PA state inspection i will need: rear struts, front and rear brakes, right front hub, front sway bar, abs pump?? or module?? (ABS and BRAKES lights are on on the dash...this is the reason for my initial trip to the mechanic), rocker panels in front of rear tires where car gets jacked up (pinch points??) are starting to rot (mechanic says this needs fixed before anything else), and an exhaust leak that i am not too concerned with. This car starts every morning and runs like a top. I bought it in May of 2008 for $3500. I'd say I got my money's worth but I really don't want to buy a new car. If any of you are reading this what do you think. Should I spend 2000 dollars or so to MAYBE keep it on the road for MAYBE another year or 2 or is this just the beginning. Sorry to be so wordy but I am in a quandary.
  • Here’s my dilemma. Until last week my Miata turbo (speed model) was problem free. Then the alternator belt broke, and I tried to drive it to the dealer on the battery. Big mistake! The battery couldn’t drive the engine. The radiator blew, the engine overheated, and it then seized.

    To get the car running again will require a new radiator and a rebuilt engine. Parts and labor have a 12,000 mile warranty.

    Cost to repair: $5,000
    Edmunds trade-in value prior to damage: $9,700.
    Trade-in value with a blown engine: Who knows?

    I’m thinking about fixing the car and driving it straight to CarMax and selling it. Then I can buy whatever suits me. Or, I can trade it in to the Mazda dealer and buy a new Mazda.

    What are your thoughts? Just scrap the car? Would a dealer even touch my car as a trade-in given its current condition? What do you think about my CarMax idea? All advice welcome.
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