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I don't see anything wrong with continuing to drive it. Keep up with the oil changes. If you haven't done so already, you should swap the fuel filter and spark plugs. Also change the coolant and trans oil.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
but i've never had the brakes and brake fluid changed...never changed plugs or plug wires or had any kind of tuneup.....
my dealer does the oil for free.....at 125,000 miles,they wanted to do about $3,5000 worth of work.....which got me wondering if i should do at least something..
for the last 2 years,the CEL light has been on...car drives fine and milage has not been affected...one independent said a few vaccum hosed SHOULD get the light off....another independent advised me to ignore light...that all he could do was "throw parts at it" until light came off.
I hear of some Passats going very high milage....I know it's not worth much,and even less with the body work not done...i'm just wondering what i should do to keep the car going beyond 130,000 miles..
Wait a sec.... never had brakes. You are at 130k on original brake pads??! That would be pretty amazing. Unless you drive like 100 miles a day and only have to apply the brakes when you arrive at your destination.
What is this $3500 list of repairs? If you break it down for us, maybe we can help you with what is or is not necessary.
You don't HAVE to change brake fluid, but it is a good idea. So that's all of $79 at an indy mechanic. Another $79 for the trans. Maybe $300 for a comprehensive tune-up. The CEL concerns me. You wouldn't pass inspection in my state with that on. You need to know the code. I don't see how they can't narrow it down with the code. My money would be on the o2 sensor personally.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
I had an Acura Integra that I purchased new for my wife that still had the original pads all around at 106K when I totalled it. She now has a Honda Pilot that has 76K of mixed driving on the original pads.
Yes,the brakes have not yet been done... The dealer mentioned a lot things...Cv boots, VEREY minor oil leak at front cover....just all kinds of stuff...As things stand,the car still drives great...I just don't want to cause a premature death...
That said, at this point if I were you I'd probably do the work and keep going with the car!
But other than that,the car has been amazing....And it's really fun to drive....It's been my most fun car ever....
Just skimp on the maintenance!
With those four cars, I had to get help from a passing mechanic on one occasion when my Voyager wouldn't start after sitting for a couple of days in the dead of winter in the middle of nowhere. Another time I was late for a lunch meeting across town and had to grab a cab when my Tercel died (I really froze that day walking 2 long blocks to a 7/11 to find a phone). Got a ride back and it started right back up.
Good luck with the Regal!
You'll need a good 3/8th ratchet with a swival head, the correct spark plug socket and probably a 3 inch and a 6 inch extention.
Then you'll have 75.00 invested in tools you'll probably never use again!
Yeah, I thought about that. I use to change the plugs on an old Chevy Nova I use to own... piece of cake. Can't find much info on the internet on how to change the plugs in a Buick Regal though. Someone mentioned tilting the engine up to get to the back plugs... it's extremely tight and you would need Olive Oil hands to get back to them. With the extensions, it looks to me that I would need something about a foot or two long... to get that middle plug. I'm sure Buick probably has a special set of tools that cost $189... the price of a tune-up. :sick:
It's a small Audi try one. I tried the 5 spd Golf and what a pocket rocket 2.5 liter and better milage than a Mazda.
Not knocking Honda's owned 3 InTegs and an Acura Type S and a TL.
VW has finally got it together. :shades:
I guess time will tell.
Drive one 100,000 miles and let us know how much trouble you had.
LOL. I actually thought about that. My old Regal could probably pay for the wheels and tires on a new Regal. That would only leave me with about $26k to go to buy the rest of the car. Doable, but don't know if I want to go that high. I saw the 2011 Regal at the new car show a few months ago, and was very impressed. Has a much more European look to it... really sharp. This Regal would definitely be the one to buy though if I were looking to spend $28k..
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If anyone thinks the 7 Series are bad (and they really are!) they should check the repair records of an old 8 Series with the 12 cyl engines!
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Jag
Thanks as your opinions are respected. E
That is a staggering amount of repairs and complaints though for a car with less than 60,000 miles on it. The first owner probably dumped it and moved on after realizing that things weren't going to get any better.
He still has the car, keeps in out back for a loaner for guests. Now the dashboard is out---you can't read any instruments. Dealer quote was something like $3500. He said "enough" and just drives it blind. I think the gas gauge works and some of the warning lights. The radio works but you can't see any of the stations. Brake light warning is constantly on, nobody can fix that apparently. Check engine light constantly on, nobody can fix that (for more than a week). Many interior trim pieces have fallen off, all the weatherstrip is cracked on the outside. License plate bracket fell off. Has oil leak somewhere, nobody can fix that.
Still drives great, though!
And this was a well-cared-for, garaged automobile. About 80,000 miles.
Man saves $1416 on Edmunds.com!!
I'd be a little concerned ordering parts from Mattys Auto Parts and Paint Inc more so since they are in Jersey. There's a few for sale on ebay but the problem remains to either tie up the car waiting for parts or ordering from the local Lexus dealership.
Did he not find an independent to work on the car after he took delivery? I almost would find the mechanic before buying the car.
For a car with 80,000 miles, that is a rather long list of faults.
Should I be worried the first 9,000 miles of the car's life was essentially spent as a rental car?
The dealer has said they will sell me the car for $24,965, but I believe I can open the bidding lower and close in the $22,000-$23,000 range, which is within the book value for the car in "excellent" condition.
Thoughts?
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
To get the car running again will require a new radiator and a rebuilt engine. Parts and labor have a 12,000 mile warranty.
Cost to repair: $5,000
Edmunds trade-in value prior to damage: $9,700.
Trade-in value with a blown engine: Who knows?
I’m thinking about fixing the car and driving it straight to CarMax and selling it. Then I can buy whatever suits me. Or, I can trade it in to the Mazda dealer and buy a new Mazda.
What are your thoughts? Just scrap the car? Would a dealer even touch my car as a trade-in given its current condition? What do you think about my CarMax idea? All advice welcome.