We are aware of the login problems affecting the forums, and appreciate your patience as we work on a fix.
Did you recently purchase a new Tesla, Rivian or Lucid vehicle directly from the manufacturer and willing to share how your experience compared to previous vehicle purchases made through a traditional dealer? A reporter would like to speak with you; please reach out to PR@Edmunds.com by 2/19 for details.
To Fix Up or Trade Up, That is the Question
Folks,
I need your advice. I have an 89 Reliant, 4 dr. with the 2.5 Litre engine and A/C (no other options). I bought this car 16 months ago with 114,000 km. I put on 225 km/day commuting to work and back so today it has 163,000 km on it. Today, the alternator died on it. Aside from a set of tires, this is the only major problem I've had with it.
It is due for a tuneup for sure and possibly some other major maintenance. I've been getting around 28-29 miles per imperial gallon. Due to the amount of driving I'm doing I'm considering trading the K car off on something that gets better mileage.
My question is, should I be wary about things going wrong with the K car and look to trade up to something more reliable and better on gas or should I just spend some cash on a tuneup and other items to bring it up to par?
If the answer is to fix up the K car, what items should I have the mechanics check out knowing that I've done nothing to it and don't know the history of it's first 114,000 km?
If the answer is to trade up, what would one recommend for high reliability and fuel economy based on 225km/day of driving? Note that I only have about CAD$3000 to play with and can't afford to buy or lease anything new.
Thanks in advance for your opinions,
Larry Jorgenson
Humboldt, SK, Canada
I need your advice. I have an 89 Reliant, 4 dr. with the 2.5 Litre engine and A/C (no other options). I bought this car 16 months ago with 114,000 km. I put on 225 km/day commuting to work and back so today it has 163,000 km on it. Today, the alternator died on it. Aside from a set of tires, this is the only major problem I've had with it.
It is due for a tuneup for sure and possibly some other major maintenance. I've been getting around 28-29 miles per imperial gallon. Due to the amount of driving I'm doing I'm considering trading the K car off on something that gets better mileage.
My question is, should I be wary about things going wrong with the K car and look to trade up to something more reliable and better on gas or should I just spend some cash on a tuneup and other items to bring it up to par?
If the answer is to fix up the K car, what items should I have the mechanics check out knowing that I've done nothing to it and don't know the history of it's first 114,000 km?
If the answer is to trade up, what would one recommend for high reliability and fuel economy based on 225km/day of driving? Note that I only have about CAD$3000 to play with and can't afford to buy or lease anything new.
Thanks in advance for your opinions,
Larry Jorgenson
Humboldt, SK, Canada
Tagged:
0
Comments
You should look at repair and maintenance costs in relation to monthly car payments on a new car. Can you fix this old car up for say the equivalent of $100 a month? Well if you can, then you won't finance a new or nearly new car for anything near that, and buying a cheap used car might easily result in $100 a month bills anyway.
I'd say that unless there is something really dreadful wrong with your car, I'd fix it up.
Driving up with a damaged vehicle also prompts going over the vehicle with a fine tooth comb. That little ding or scratch that wouldn't have been noticed on a normal walk-around gets seen and there's a few more hundred dollars lost.
Having "curb appeal" is priceless. Get the dent fixed, get the vehicle detailed, and drive up with a clear conscience and a beautiful rig - a quick walk-around, and you'll get all the money for the rig that you deserve.
The dealer replaced the water pump or a sensor or something - can't remember now - total bill $650. When I started up the car on the Saturn lot, the car was shaking vilontely (had not done this before). I shut it down and walked back inside.
The informed me that my timing chain had skipped (funny they didn't notice it when they had my car in pieces). So they wanted another $1,000 to fix that). Total bill now $1,650.
I came back a few days later and started my car again which now puttered (evidently to a bent valve). They said that it would cost another $950 to replace the valve. I was now completley out of my savings. So they said that it would be ok to drive the car as long as I didn't mind the puttering at an idle.
On the way home I realized that my accelerator now had a point after an inch or so of being pressed down where it became stiff. I figured out I could push harder to get past the point I needed to be able to merge into traffic without being run over, but that the power I had when I first drove the car was now about half. I took it back to the dealer (3rd time in one week) who said that I had a bad throttle box (of course I don't even know what these parts are). They wanted another $900 to fix that (funny how every repair is $900!!).
I figured I'd tough it out until I could afford to have it repaired. Until about another week goes by and the alternator goes out. A friend of mine knew how to replace the alternator so he did. I can afford free
But now as I'm driving down the road the headlights (and dash lights) just sporadically dim out for a second or so and sometimes the car nearly stalls just idling. My friend doesn't know what the problem is. The alternator was a new part.
So now, I have a bent valve, dimming headlights, sticky accelator, sometimes have to jiggle the battery cable to start it, and on top of it all it seems to burn oil quickly.
Here's my question. Am I just a glutton for punishment hanging on to this car, or is it worth saving up the money to fix all these problems? And are these problems normal on a car this old with 146,000 miles? Do I keep the car or get rid of it like a hot potatoe?
For this reason, I like to advise people to pay very very little for cars with over 200K on them, as their lifespan could be measured in days....or months...or years...nobody knows what's going on in there. Engineers never planned for engines to go that far.
Think of it as if you were buying a 40 year old pitcher for your baseball team. His arm could be gone in one pitch.
parting it out doesn't make sense, either. What are you going to do with a partial car in your driveway?
So to be realistic about it, you either have to fix it yourself or give it to a kid or something to fix up.
When I drove for a short distance, i smelled something burning and the speakers started making a hissing sound and then loud creaking noises. I immediately pulled over and turned off the car. The hissing/creaking from the speakers continued although key was removed from ignition.
Got the car towed to a body shop where an adjuster looked at it after 2 days and said it might be totaled. The battery has been disconnected to stop speakers from making sounds. My guess is that the amplifier is shorted, but i don't know if there are bigger problems. The radio does not turn on but the speakers make noise anyway (if the battery is connected).
The car is in excellent shape mechanically and I would like to know what is the best course of action if the appraiser's estimate is close to 80% of Actual Cash Value.
1. I could argue that they repair it. Would they be required to pay for further damages within the next few months if there is further damage to sensors etc?
2. Take the money they offer and buy a new/ slightly used car. Nada guide has the car at 14,100. KBB has it at 13000 (accounting for leather, sunroof, alloy, in dash cd changer etc)
3. Take the ACV less Salavage value and keep the car. Get the glasses fixed (about 2000$), amplifier replaced (about 500$ plus labor) and ignore the little dents on the body which I am told pop out in the Texas heat. If i do take this option, is there some way I can get the electrical system examined to check for possible damage to other sensors (body shops in the Austin area don't seem to have much experience with electrical systems and the only dealer is 30 miles away and I don't know if i should be driving there)? Would you recommend disconnecting the fuse for the amplifier circuit and driving the car short distances to get estimates?
If anyone has knowledge of Eclipse, do you know if there are important sensors under the seat/ on the floor?
Also, if the car were totaled due to hail damage, do you know how it would show up on on title searches such as carfax? i.e. would i be doomed if trying to sell the car in a couple of years?
Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks.
Given what you describe, I can't see how it wouldn't be totalled. Flood damage is almost always an automatic total these days.
I have a 95 sl1 automatic with 155k miles on it. I was driving today and I noticed a funny burning smell... kind of like burning rubber, but not quite. It kind of had a sort of a burning hot metal smell to it, it that makes sense. I had been driving for a while and the engine was hot. the RPMs dropped very low when I came to a stop. the temp gauge went up over the halfway point. It started shifting gears erratically and the SES light came on. I pulled over to check it out. Tranny fluid was good, oil level good, belt seemed to be in ok shape. I couldn't see any obvious problems. I read the engine codes and I got a tranny code 23 (no 3rd gear.)
It may have been my imagination, but it seemed to me that I had to brake much harder to get the car to stop and that the steering was looser. I also go a nasty lurch from the change in gear when I slowed to make a stop.
I had previously noticed recently that the RPMs always seemed much lower than they should be while idle, especially when the engine was warm.
I have also gotten the same tranny code several times before.
any ideas what the problem could be?
Anyway, the shop gave me a base estimate of $1289. Other things....The rack leaks, and the rear brakes need fixing too (and leak also). the car consumes oil like crazy also. Th eboots might be ripping too. I am starting to answer my own question. But the thing is very very clean. The exterior is immaculate however. I've never seen a 17 yr old car with paint this good. Recently I replaced a sensor myself and cap, wires and plugs.
I think you will find that you could buy one "ready to go" for less than it would cost to repair yours. If that's true, then really you know the answer. If a replacement car in top shape is, like...DOUBLE your up-coming repair bill, then maybe you should fix yours.
Sounds like you are looking at $2,000 easy to get this car in shape and that's without correcting the oil burning issue.
kirstie_h
Roving Host
Host, Future Vehicles & Smart Shopper discussions
MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR
Find me at kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
2015 Kia Soul, 2021 Subaru Forester (kirstie_h), 2024 GMC Sierra 1500 (mr. kirstie_h)
Review your vehicle
$1100 is rebuilding my existing one
Seems fair
MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR
Find me at kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
2015 Kia Soul, 2021 Subaru Forester (kirstie_h), 2024 GMC Sierra 1500 (mr. kirstie_h)
Review your vehicle
At 130,000 miles there is probably a lot of life left in that Prelude. I'm not sure what you mean by "rot". Even if it's a total rust bucket it is WELL worth the 700.00 you are asking for it.
The last thing I would do is put a Micky Mouse exhaust system on it. I wold sell it AS IS. For 700.00, it's a screaming deal!
I don't know what part of the country you are in, but some parts of the US are more tolerant of rust than others. Here in California, a badly rusted car is basically wrecking yard material.
Installing a complete exhaust system is no easy task, either, even on a lift with air tools and welding equipment. Don't go there, please!
Tell the kid to take it or leave it for $700. You're price is fair enough.