Did you recently take on (or consider) a loan of 84 months or longer on a car purchase?
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No, IF your Accord has been well maintained and driven normally, it should go at least 250,000 miles. In addition to mileage, age is a factor in longevity, and your car isn't too old to continue providing good service. Naturally, it'll tend to require more repairs with age than a newer, lower mileage car, but since it's already fully depreciated you'll save money there.
what car do you all recommend for a 6'2 tall guy that gets HIGH MPG that isn't over $15k?? (I noticed the best MPG cars are little shoeboxes on wheels. Not too great for a tall, lanky guy!"
That's a personal choice. Unlike in the 1970s, '80s, and '90s, virtually all cars are good today. Given the amount of time he spends in his car, he should buy a car that suits his particular needs and preferences.
While in Boulder, CO on vacation after descending Rocky Mt. N.P. our 95 T Bird required two new front rotors, pads, rear rotors were turned, + new pads, but the major unexpected expense was having to replace the heater core. The core was only $99, but the labor was very high due to having to remove the front bucket seat and pull back the dash board to get to the core.
Had we traded it on the spot for a late Mustang, they wouldn't give much as is.
Were we to sell it to a friend back home, we'd have to fix it first, so after doing the repairs, why not drive it ourselves. It's a 4.6 V8 and at 60 mph we got 31.5 mpg between Tremonton, UT and Baker City, OR. Mileage on the car = 113,657.
Market value is a factor to consider in deciding whether a repair is worth it, but not the only factor. One should also consider the pay back on the repair versus the higher cost and depreciation associated with buying a new(er) car. A third consideration, to which you alluded, is the value a repair adds to the car one is already driving.
I know these things depreciate... plus on top of that, my hubby gets no car allowance or gas expenses. So it is definitely in our best interest to be as economical with a car purchase as possible.
However, after $1500 worth of work (plus new tires), I'm afraid more things are going to break down, leak, need replacing, etc with $500 maintenance jobs here and there.
And who knows how it will hold up after getting this big repair job done. Sorry, just having doubts about this 9 year old car.
If it were 175K miles on it, or if an inspection found other issues, I'd have a different opinion.
Or to put it another way, one person's cheerful dumb optimism ( :P ) based on little evidence is no better or worse than another person's doubts, also based on a lack of evidence.
Then, one day, he just keels over. Is anyone surprised? Of course not. He already beat the odds.
So with the Honda. The "end" could happen at any moment, or it could go another 3 years. It's a $3,500 roll of the dice at that mileage.
It's broken down like this: timing belt, tune up, secondary ignition parts, catalytic converter.
He cut down the price to $1440 - so not by much. (It's about $60/hr labor). Is that normal?
The guys seems to think that if we get the repairs done, we should at least be able to make it to 300k miles. My husband drives 35k miles/year... so that would buy us about 3 more yrs (barring nothing else going wrong). :confuse:
Where I come from, $60/hr is a half-price sale.
I hadn't a clue about why we need a new catalytic. That's what the mechanic said.
He said that's what's causing the engine light to come on. He did mention that of the 4 things that needed to be done, he would do the catalytic last. If that tells you anything. Should I be concerned?
To his credit, he's saving the most expensive guess for last.
I'd get the engine light issue fixed FIRST. Then worry about timing belt, once that's solved.
Shouldn't that be done first?
Oh and forgot about the tires too. :sick:
If you got another 36,000 miles for $2,000, thats pretty darn good on a per mile basis.
Anyway, if you bought a new car, you'd lost $3,000 at least just driving off the showroom floor.
We never buy new... always used and in cash. We were looking at Accords with 60k miles or less on them... those things were running for $17k+ ! :surprise:
Not too bad...
I think we're going to get the car fixed. Thanks for all the advice!!
Our '94 Dodge Caravan had the transmission go out, but it was still under warranty. Don't remember the exact mileage that this happened, but I think is was around 50K miles. The dealer fixed it for no charge. We never touched the transmission again, except for a fluid change out or two, until we got rid of it at the 178K mile mark 3.5 years ago.
oops, was catching up and didn't see the additional details about the repairs.
if you bought a 2 or 3 year old accord with the original tires, how long before those need replacing?
at 60k miles you are looking at the timing belt replacement (assuming the more recent models still have them) in a bit over a year.
Depends on your financial situation. If money is tight I'd go ahead and repair it and put some new tires on. Keep on truckin!
I may not be correct with the above, but this is the best of my memory.
And, for the Accords, there was one part that was causing the problem, from one supplier, and when this was determined, the problem was resolved. I had a V6 2002 Accord, with no tranny problems.
And, for the Accords the trannys were totally swapped out by Honda with a rebuilt tranny.
I would think a rebuild Accord or Accura tranny from Honda would be about as reliable as any new Honda tranny.
Hondas are known for reliability and longevity, and ours, purchased new, has lived up to the brand's reputation, but apparently not every component delivers above average reliability. In the case of the TL the catalytic converters seem to fail more frequently than the industry average. This is the first car we've had that's needed the converter replaced. All other repairs have been minor, thus far, and the car has 112,000 on the odometer.
Mary36, based on what your mechanic said, and the comments in this discussion, if it were my car, I'd have it repaired and keep driving it. A lot of items, such as tires and batteries, and timing belts, wear out no matter what car you drive, and eventually need to be replaced. Please do us a favor, though, and check back with us in three-six months, to let us know how the Honda is doing.
Just a sidenote though... hubby came home from work today, I went out to the garage and noticed one of his tires had gone flat! We might need to get these tires taken care before anything!
Either that, or you could trade now for a 2008 TL... I think those are being discounted pretty heavily these days.
If it makes you feel any better, you should be able to at least get another 70K out of that transmission, so you could re-evaluate things at 140K, should you decide to keep on truckin'.
As an insurance policy, I'd keep an eye on deals for cars you're interested in, so if the transmission goes, you're informed and ready to buy.
Oh, give me a break! SOME of these have caused problems which is very un Honda like. The majority of them have been fine.
Honda went far beyond the call of duty to take care of the people who did have troubles.
Time to get out there and test drive a TL, perhaps?
and isell, Honda did take care of the majority of people, but apparently a lot of people got left out, especially the ones that are just now seeing their transmissions fail. The Honda Odyssey Transmission board is filled w/ those guys...
I feel kinda bad for Honda, though.. They've just been paying through the nose for these transmissions and there seems to be an endless supply of defective 5 speed automatics...
It doesn't matter what your's or anyone else's opinion is about emission controls, you're still breaking the law and can be fined or have your car impounded if caught doing this! :surprise:
dont make the mistake of looking at the current $2500-5000 you hae to spend RIGHT NOW to fix yoru car, vs the $450/month payment you will have to buy anew car. it's easy to think the 450 sounds much more affordable... do the long term math.
a 3500 fix NOW but the car will run w/out anymajor issues for another 24 months vs a 450month paymen for 24 months. that 450 becomes double the cost over time...
my solution was to fix up my DD and then buy a small cheaper fun car to enjoy on the side.
"Instant Depreciation" is the wap in the wallet as soon as you drive it off the lot. And it happens suddenly.
When you do dump the old one, it is repaired by someone and then driven many more miles, so why not be the driver of the old one after it is repaired?
In 1980 I bought a new Lincoln Town Car with the 351 V8 and immediately replaced the two catalytic converters with regular mufflers and used leaded fuel until it was no longer available.
If the Environmental Movement had testicular authority, it would require retrofitting of older cars with CC. So, catch me if you can. :P
Some folks think that cars run better without a catalytic but this is not always the case, especially on the more modern automobiles. Both performance and fuel economy can drop.
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