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2000 Ford F-250 Super Duty Problems and Solutions
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Comments
An ABS failure indication light (assuming that it's not a sensor problem) tells you that the ABS system is not functioning. It's not an indication of total brake failure. Your brakes will function in just the same way as those on a vehicle without ABS.
Sounds like the CV drive unit to the front axle could be going bad.
I've only got 2 K miles left on the warranty so to the dealer it goes. Anyone seen this problem?
Thanks,
Hipstra
I love the sound and the added power.
Don
Casey
Mark
I've read with much interest the posts on this site tonight......this truck has had it's share of problems too, rotora, brakes, calipera hanging up, ABS, sensors, fuel pump, I think I replaced the alternator a couple of years ago. All things being said, it's been (and hopefully will continue to be) a great truck, reliable and safe. I now hope it's reasonable to fix, would like to get it to 250,000 before it gets a much deserved rest. By the way, the truck has seen it's share of trailer towing too, about 3 weeks a year since we got it. Just needed a place to share thoughts and hoping this isn't an obituary!
We also own a 04 Ford 150, though hubby uses that one. No problems with it. Still like my 98, though..............
thanx
Easy. (In fact any high school boy in the '50s would know this.). The driver either through ineptitude and/or a worn clutch kept stalling the truck. He then repeatedly tried to restart it too quickly, ground teeth off of the flywheel ring gear which damaged the starter drive gear. Happens all the time.
Easy. (In fact any high school boy in the '50s would know this.). The driver either through ineptitude and/or a worn clutch kept stalling the truck. He then repeatedly tried to restart it too quickly, ground teeth off of the flywheel ring gear which damaged the starter drive gear. Happens all the time.
Oh no, you don't get away with it that easily! :shades:
First, the damaged starter is clearly caused by the ineptitude of the driver, not the worn clutch.
Second, a worn clutch will cease to transmit drive to the wheels. The engine will therefore not stall but will happily spin away while the vehicle remains stationary.
It's like saying that your worn tire was the cause of the blowout, and therefore responsible for the totalling of your vehicle. No, you were the cause, for operating the vehicle with a worn tire.
It wasn't the fault of the clutch that the starter/ring gear/bendix failed in your scenario, it was the fault of the operator.
However, in the original post the dealer was claiming that the clutch was so badly worn that it had damaged the starter, hence my question "How does a worn clutch damage the starter?". The only situation I can imagine, which doesn't appear to be the case here, is that the clutch fragments at high rpm and small pieces jamb between the ring gear and bendix, ripping the two apart.
try it
I think we are in agreement that a lousy driver and/or a difficult application (Tim79, "I use it as a work truck to haul things") can quickly wear out a clutch. I think we are also in agreement that a worn clutch with the wrong driver can result in grinding the starter motor on the ring gear, wearing both the ring gear and the starter drive.
Therefore it is hardly "bogus" to feel as Tim79's dealer did that the "clutch was so far gone it messed up the starter."
I see no relationship whatsoever between a worn clutch and a bad starter motor, so I think the dealer's diagnosis (if reported accurately--let's be fair) is intentionally or unintentionally wrong. It makes no sense.
Take care.
Casey
There should be no human connection either, because as I pointed out previously, a worn clutch will slip and initially cause revs to rise, and when terminally worn will prevent any transmission of power to the drivetrain.
This final stage of failure will allow the engine to run smoothly at any speed from idle to full throttle in any gear, clutch in or out, and will make it virtually impossible to stall the engine using the operator's controls. Hence, no reason for the starter to be used any more than in a vehicle with a functional clutch.
I don't know how I could have such good luck with my 99 SD and others such bad luck unless they drive a lot differently than I do. Now transmission problems are another story.
Here's some clutch trivia: about 25 years ago to overcome a shortage of drivers, school bus fleets converted to all automatic tranmissions. Many clutch rebuilders closed up. The sale of ring gears plummeted! Ring gears are now getting hard to find.
However, the point I have so inadequately been trying to put across, is that there no connection between a worn clutch and a damaged starter because a worn clutch will not cause the engine to stall. In fact, the more worn the clutch becomes, the harder it will be to stall the engine through too rapid an engagement, until it finally becomes impossible to do so.
My husbands 2004 F150 has had brake problems since delivery. After the first visit which rotors were replaced to correct the vibration in the 1st month of ownership, we also complained of the "pedal to the floor" in emergency braking occurances.It's Sept of 2006, and at 37,000 miles and numerous (well over 17 visits to the dealership) we still have the occasional pedal to the floor on emergency brake situations ( tourists pulling out in front of you, turning left from the right hand lane, etc....) Each and every time we get CND - that's cannot duplicate to those of you lucky enough not to know dealership lingo.
Anyone else still out there with this problem????
Thanks.
If nothing's obvious, then take it to an Autozone and have them check the codes (usually free). That'll hopefully clue you in as to what got messed up by losing the belt.
The warning may clear on it's own with time. E.G. My wife's Honda has light come on if you don't properly tighten the gas cap. Once you do, the light stays on for about 100 miles more of City driving.
You could clear the code by yourself. Pull off Battery terminal for a couple minutes. Then see if code reurns.
Revving any engine and then dropping the tranny in gear can and will cause all sorts of problems from damging u-joints to twisting the drive shaft to breaking tranny mounts...and the list goes on.
I first would check transmission and motor mounts and then go from there.
Get some WD-40. Drown the door switches with it. Work the switch back and forth repeatedly . Drown it with WD-40 again. Repeat until it works properly. :shades:
My headlights are so dim that when trucks(half ton trucks) follow me they cast a shadow in front of my truck.