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Thanks everyone for your help.
I think I just had my hands over the transmission side boot cover and pushed it in.
I am glad you got the tool to separate the lower ball joint, having the right tools makes that kind of thing so much easier and minimizes the risk of damaging additional parts.
One more thing, as long as you have that much taken apart, you should check your front brakes. Removing the front rotors requires disassembly to right where you are at now.
Completed The Job. I got the shaft in with a little help from a "crow bar" just to pop the shaft into place. I just gently persuaded into postion. The assembly went well. I've driven the car and it runs great.
Thanks for the help!
after i replaced them all u can still here it when the rpms hit 3000.......
and my cars acceleration is very slow
does anyone have any ideas on what it could be???
I have maintained my honda 1990 but recently i have had to invest too much money on it. I wonder if it is time to let go. now i have the S light flashing but no loss of power and no problem with the transmission, just the annoying flashing..it is not always flashing...it comes and goes. should I replace the Electronic module ? I am just steps away to give up and get a newer Honda.
http://techauto.bravehost.com/
PS: Click on transmission (left side of screen) and then click on troubleshooting "S" light.
Honda Accord CB1 CB3 CB7 89 91 Service Manual zip
and
Honda Accord 1991 1992 1993 Repair Manual 1934 pages
Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks
Alternatively, it could be the ABS motor that pumps the brakes, but I am still leaning more towards a sensor.
I believe there is a way to pull codes from the ABS computer (that should tell you what sensor is bad) but I am not aware of how to do it.
thanks!
I drive an '04 Accord LX as my primary car and am looking at this older Accord with a manual transmission as just a fun car to drive, which I find it to be. Plus, I like the looks of that vintage Accord. Is there anything in particular I should be looking for in terms of a common mechanical problem with this generation of Accords? Something to avoid?
The '90 I drove had a few issues -- the clutch didn't engage smoothly, and some front end wobble at highway speed -- but it was amazingly quiet and tight, and the engine pulled strongly. These cars just seem to be screwed together so well, maybe better than my '04.
Thanks for any advice, especially about the shoulder belts.
Upper ball joints are integrated into the control arm, making the piece more expensive (~$100) but its pretty easy to swap out as a DIY thing.
Tie Rods are about $35 and equally easy as a DIY thing. A wheel alignment is recommended after either one.
To diagnose the tie rods, grab each front wheel at 3 and 9 and push with one hand while pulling with the other and alternate a few times. If there is play, tie rods are likely.
For the ball joint/control arm, grab the wheels at 12 and push and pull. If it rattles, its likely the ball joint.
I guess the torsion rod that goes from the lower control arm to the frame can also rot out, but I haven't seen that happen yet.
If you get a '92 or 93, you get an airbag and no mouse belts. Front brakes are a PITA. Scroll back through the posts and see what you can find.
So, my search for a good used Accord will continue, focusing now on the 1992-93 models that have airbags instead.
Also, I asked the body shop about fixing the rusted areas in the rear quarter panels at the front of the wheel housing, that showed up on the one I drove the other day. He said he'd do it, but not warranty it, since it tends to come back, sooner rather than later. Just wondering if any of you have had any luck fixing this problem in a more permanent way.
Thanks.
Once rust is there, there is very little that can be done to get rid of it. I would suggest searching for vehicles in climates less prone to rust/corrosion. This also makes maintenance much easier.
I apologize for jumping into this thread, but I am having a similar issue.
on my 1992 accord LX, I just replaced my rotors, calipers, pads, ball joints, control arms, sway bar ends, and front wheel bearings. PHEW.
I bled the front brakes and everything seemed to be going well. Suddenly, about 2 days after getting it all together, my brakes go to the floor, and there are NO leaks.
The auto shop wants to sell me hoses, and I just don't see anything wrong with them. They don't bulge.
Then they said that I need to bleed the rear passenger, then the front driver, then rear driver, and front passenger. Does this sound right as a possible problem?
Did that person who started this thread have to replace their Master Cylinder?
Also, the link you provided for bleeding brakes doesn't work. I am wondering if there is some mid-point bleeding needed?
Tom
Last time the brakes were touched was in 2001. Okay then.
Can you give me the link to bleeding the brakes?
Tom
http://syclone.motocrew.com/CG5/brakebleed.htm
Tom
And to thegraduate in Alabama -- just send one of those rust-free 1992 or 1993 models, with low mileage of course, up to me in Kentucky, and all will be well.
My mom had a 1993 Accord EX. It was immaculate. No door dings at all over 7 years we had the thing (110k miles). We sold it on our Odyssey.
It was honestly the best car my family EVER had. No rattles. No repairs. No problems at ALL.
If I could, I might would trade my 1996 LX Accord for it today. I grew up in that car (the '93)!
Good luck on your quest for a 92-93 with less than 200k miles though. Remember, we're talking cars that are 15 years old now. RELIABLE ones!
As a certain ex-president used to say, I can feel your pain about letting that '93 EX get away from you.
Your comments confirm my impressions from driving the '90 LX the other day. In spite of its slight front end vibrations, it was amazingly smooth and quiet at 70 mph. It just seemed so well put together, and this was a 167,000 mile car that needed a little TLC.
I liked everything about it (except the mouse belt). The low cowl, the seating position, plenty of headroom. And the body design itself is very appealing to me. I think Honda just "got it right" on this generation. I envy those of you with a real nice model from this generation.
I'm also driving some cars from the 1994-97 era, which I see you now have. Are you happy with that one? What would you say are the main differences from the 90-93 gen to the 94-97 generation, especially in terms of the "fun to drive" quotient?
I'm driving an '04 Accord sedan, and my son has a '98 coupe with about 140,000 miles that we bought new for him, and it's still tight as a drum. But among those four generations, I'm still liking the '90 I drove.
The 94-95/6 was available with VTEC (as was the '93 elsewhere), had a larger interior and trunk, and felt like it had a bit more shoulder room in the back. The later ones also had dual airbags vs the single driver airbag on the 92-93.
You guessed it, 85. But the Shadow was fast enough for my first bike. I miss the car, more than the bike.
AUSTINMAN,
I never drove the 1993 (I was 13 when we got rid of it), but my 1996 is still lots of fun, if not particularly fast (its the 130 hp LX, non-VTEC version). At about 2,800 lbs, it's more spry than my 2006 EX, however. With new shocks (mine have 173k miles on them) I imagine it would be a real fun ride!). I love my 1996, and it has been a wonderful first car for me. The best part is that it still gets 28 MPG in my mixed hwy/city commute. Can't ask for much more from a 12 year old car.
Well, if I lived in Austin you'd probably have a point, but here in Kentucky all there is to do is sit on the veranda, sip our mint juleps and wait for next year's Derby.
Hey, give me a break -- Edmunds is a place for people with above average interest in cars, right? I confess, that's me.
Thanks for your perspective on the 94-97 gen, which I'm looking at, but the overall design just doesn't appeal to me like the 90-93 gen.
I agree with all your points about the 90-93 models.
Sounds like you have a nice 1996 model and are quite happy with it. As I said in the above post, I'm driving a few of those too, but the 90-93 gen has the styling appeal to me. Interesting that your 1996 Accord seems quicker than the 2006. Maybe the weight difference accounts for that.
All I CAN say with some assurance is that you should pay very very little for a car with 210K miles on it, because you are in a high risk situation. Certainly not anything close to "book" value.
Well, I didn't mean faster, just a little "lighter on its feet" when handling curves. It drives like a compact (which it is) while the 06 drives like a larger yet-still-excellent vehicle. The 2006 is definitely the speed AND economy champ though (that 2.4L is freakin' fantastic!).
To clarify the weight/power issue, the 1996 Accord has 21.96 lb for each horsepower (2855 lbs, 130 hp), while the 2006 has only 19.26 lb for each horsey (3,200 lbs, 166 hp). Basically, my 2006 is as fast with 500 lbs on board as my 1996 is empty.
I replaced it but clicking noise is still there. Signalling to the left or right seems to work normally. Its pretty anoying when you have to go for a long drive. I also got the feeling that the relay itself will eventually die from this. Does the signal handle itself causing this? Maybe its worn? Anyone here has any idea on how to resolve this?