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Honda Accord (1994-1997) Maintenance and Repair

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    ladybug34ladybug34 Member Posts: 1
    I just stumpled across this site and was ready your message about your timing belt. I am one speaking from experience HAVE IT REPLACED. I didn't and it cost me the whole engine.

    ladybug34
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    autoboy16autoboy16 Member Posts: 992
    Ok mamamia2, i felt the bucking while watching the tac sit at 0 for 2minutes then go up and down rapidly (like a kid playing the bending pencil trick) and then is seemed to accelerated more powerfuly than usual and shift at higher rpms but i couldn't tell because the tac was jumping around. And at high rpms (say over 3k) it would squeal every 30 seconds. It also makes this squealing noise while accelerating.
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    sardonic_ninnysardonic_ninny Member Posts: 25
    I went to get my A/C Fixed and the mechanic said that there was a rod knocking.
    He said I should dump it now before it breaks because it can fly through the engine, out the side of the fender and into a car beside me and is horrble blah blah etc.
    I was just wondering if this is remotely plausible.
    What does a rod knocking sound like and if it does break whats the WORST case scenario?
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    mamamia2mamamia2 Member Posts: 707
    SO? Did you take the car to your local Honda service? It sure sounds like your Speed Sensor / Distributor are shot, and are covered by the special extended warranty which I mentioned above....
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    mamamia2mamamia2 Member Posts: 707
    I'm no mechanic, but if you ask me, there is only one response to this: BS.
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    Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    A rod knock sounds like someone with a hammer banging on the engine from the inside. This is not a subtle noise.

    Yes, a rod bearing can fail and cause the rod to drive through the block, definitely....but it's not going to go through the fender, etc...this is hyperbole.

    In a sense the warning is irrelevent---if the rod is knocking, you have to rebuild the engine anyway.

    Best thing to do is get a second opinion to see if it's really a rod or not. There are other similar noises, such as a loose crankshaft pulley or severely worn camshaft.
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    guodazhuguodazhu Member Posts: 8
    Hey, I am new here. I have a 94 Accord EX (134K miles) and it used to run very well till I have this car washed several weeks ago. During the car wash, I stopped the engine and when I got the green light to drive out the washing place, D4 was flashing and engine was cranking and no start. After turning the key on/off several times, D4 was not flashing and engine run again.

    The flashing of D4 is totally random after that. Sometimes it flashes and sometimes not. However, it becomes more difficult to start the engine even w/o D4 flashing. Today, I sent the car to have it repaired. They told me it was the ignition switch and charged me $218 for the part plus another $140 for labor (am I overcharged or OK?). It was ridiculous since I can not start up when I picked the car even though D4 is not flashing.

    Please help me, if this is a electrical issue or transmission issue? What should I do? I really do not want to spend too much money on this car.

    Thanks a lot!
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    autoboy16autoboy16 Member Posts: 992
    Waiting on part to come in for the recall so the Tac needle is still jumping alot but has calmed down ALOT since day1. BUt i still get the squeel when the tac goes over 3k (kind of hard to tell when it starts jumping) and is most noticible when cruising at 70 on highway. What kind of oil would you recomend for a 95 v6 with 115k miles?
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    mamamia2mamamia2 Member Posts: 707
    What kind of oil would you recomend for a 95 v6 with 115k miles?

    --Don't remember. Check the manual, if you got one, or ask your trust-worthy mechanic. 10W30 seems like a default to me.
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    autoboy16autoboy16 Member Posts: 992
    No book. Mechanic out on july 4 vacation. Won't be back until July 21! For the time being my dad used 20w50 high mileage in my bros 91 accord (175k). It might have been too heavy because it got him from miami to tallahassee before the car rotated its last piston. Thats why i'm asking; before he murders another accord :cry:.
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    techman41973techman41973 Member Posts: 83
    In May, I got a new set of tires of my 97 Accord (170,000 miles).
    I decided to go with Yokohama Avids since many people on USENET and
    Tire Rack had great things to say about them on 94-97 accord.

    After getting them on, I noticed a pull to the left and squirrely
    handling. Kind of like the car was tracking every bit of road texture
    on the freeway and skidding side to side as if there was constant
    crosswind. Definitely not what you would expect on a Honda Accord.
    I had a friend drive the car just to verify my hunch and indeed he said
    this is an unstable ride.
    I wonder if it has anything to do with the fact that these are
    directional tires (which by the way look correctly installed by the
    arrows on the tires).

    To try to correct this, I got a 4-wheel alignment (which it needed) yet
    my mechanic still found a pull to the left, that would oddly go away if
    the tires were rotated front to rear. But I still had squirrely
    handling regardless how the tires were rotated. One rotation
    configuration gave me a pull to the left, the other configuration gave
    me a wallowy ride on many bumps and dips in the road.

    Rotating just the left side caused the pull to appear is one
    configuration and dissapear in another. The tire place replaced the
    front left tire (with the rotation configuration causing the pull).
    Then when that didn't work they took the old tire from the front left
    that they replaced and put it on the rear left, and that still didn't
    correct the pull.

    As you can see this is turning into a complicated and frustrating
    story.
    The tire place is now saying that they will replace all 4 tires with
    another brand.
    I am leaning towards Michelin Pilot exaltos.
    So I am looking for recommendations and advice on how to avoid another
    set that would cause such problems.

    Some important info
    * My trusted mechanic (repaired only Hondas for 20 years) said my
    suspension is in fine shape. He doesnt see anything that could be
    causing this
    * I got my new Monroe Sensatrak struts in January. I had a set of them
    before with no problems and I didn't notice anything odd when they
    installed them, with my old tires on.
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    mamamia2mamamia2 Member Posts: 707
    I don't think you can go wrong with 10w30.
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    scottsbluffscottsbluff Member Posts: 7
    I just bought this car for my son's 16th bday and the brake lamp light has come on and won't go off. Is this a concern I should have or is this common with this accord? :cry:
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    thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    This may be a dumb question, but I feel I should ask it. Have you checked the brake/taillights to ensure that one isn't burned out? The "Brake Lamp" indicator on the dash (under the tachometer) should be lit if you have a brake lamp burned out/not functioning. I'm not sure it lights up for the high-mount stop light, but it works for either side.
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    scottsbluffscottsbluff Member Posts: 7
    Yes, the lights are one and when you press on the break all the lights become brighter, but then the break lights dim.
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    thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Yes, the lights are one and when you press on the break all the lights become brighter, but then the break lights dim.

    Ok, let me ask this. What year is the car (1994-1995 used a different taillight design than the 1996-1997)?

    If it is a 1996-7, are you saying that the outer portion lights up brighter like it should, but the inner part near the tag gets dimmer? The inner part should not change regardless of brakelight being on or off. It sounds like you have a problem in your electrical system or taillamps if this is the case.
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    scottsbluffscottsbluff Member Posts: 7
    it is a 1997. The inner part goes dim. I opened the hood and checked the lights, they aren't the factory white lights they are red plugging into the red tail lights.
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    thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Hm, wierd. I'm not a mechanic by any means, so I'm not going to give you advice, but I'd think a stock taillamp would not cause you such a problem. Maybe you can just call a dealer (if you have one you like) and ask if using a regular bulb would fix your issue. It may not (again, I know lots about cars, but couldn't fix one to save my life).
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    scottsbluffscottsbluff Member Posts: 7
    I found another website that has been helpful and think that it is just a malfunction when there is a bit of a short in the wires or in the way you hook up the bulbs (I think). Thanks for your help. I hear Honda's are good cars. Hope this plays true for his first car :)
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    drumaster12drumaster12 Member Posts: 3
    :confuse:
    Hi everybody,
    I know many people have already responded with answers to speedometer problems, but I have a few more. My 95 Accord LX (manual) has recently decided that it's speedometer should stay right around 20mph. what has me confused is that it stays at or around 20 as soon as I turn the key on without even starting the motor. I disconnected the VSS to test it and figured I'd try the key while it was disconnected. The speedo went straight up to 20 again, without the VSS connected. Of course I figure this means the VSS is not to blame, so I am wondering if anyone here has had the same problem or any ideas for me. I appreciate any help or suggestions you can give. Thanks in advance.
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    drumaster12drumaster12 Member Posts: 3
    scottsbluf, Hondas are great cars, and it'll treat your son great. Don't think they are trouble prone because of this thread. The thread is specifically for maintenance issues. Add that to the fact that Accords are insanely popular cars and you end up with a lot of problem posts. If you look at the numbers I'm fairly certain you'll find far less problems per vehicle than almost any other auto manufacturer. Mines got 172,000 miles on it and still going strong! :)
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    scottsbluffscottsbluff Member Posts: 7
    Thanks to all of you for your help. I am excited for him to come home from Wrestling Camp and see it in the driveway.Again thanks and I will remember this site for further needs and answers.
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    thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Yes, please do come back and see us! While nobody has all the answers, together, a lot of the time we can help reach a conclusion, or eliminate choices to what a problem could be.

    Thegrad

    -1996 LX I-4 Auto Sedan, 163,000 miles; only two major repairs ever needed (Brake Master Cylinder and Cooling fan motor = $600 total).
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    autoboy16autoboy16 Member Posts: 992
    Yes, the lights are one and when you press on the break all the lights become brighter, but then the break lights dim.

    :surprise: I kow the answer!! my bro had this problem in his 91. Ok. You have a spoiler. Check those lights. If 3 or more are out, this light comes on/ Sorry but no tips on replacing them. Tell me if i'm right! :shades:

    ps That can be a sign if the battery is going low also.

    -Cj :)
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    autoboy16autoboy16 Member Posts: 992
    I have 2 brands (hey they came with the car); Bridgestone Potenzas in the front and Lemans Hrs in the Rear. Must be a good combo. Ride is smooth and firm. Also unusually quiet... I'm just deciding on what to pick when the time for new tires come... The size on all 4 is p205 60 R15 so i believe it to be safe. Minimal wear on tires after 2k miles

    1995 Accord Ex v6: 115,600 miles. Only work done was the service Bulletin #98-081 and timing belt change. This is no :lemon:(-the power windows, ac on hot days, and stuck antenna)

    - Cj :)
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    drumaster12drumaster12 Member Posts: 3
    Problem Solved! In case anyone else is experiencing this problem, let me tell you what fixed it. I simply took of the distributor, took it apart then put it back together and installed it. Speedo now works 100%. :)
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    minimumphaseminimumphase Member Posts: 1
    Hi,

    I am planning to buy a used 97 honda accord ex. The exhaust is rusty and needs replacing. How much would that cost me. How much can I offer the seller?

    Any help will be appreciated.

    Phase.
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    mamamia2mamamia2 Member Posts: 707
    Ummm... The easiest, most reliable way to check it -- is calling a local mufler shop, or your own mechanic, and ask your question.....

    ....Just a thought...
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    cacksammelcacksammel Member Posts: 1
    I replaced the driveaxles on a 94 Accord LX; after I slipped the lower ball joint back into the steering knuckle, I attempted to tighten the castle nut. Once the nut started to resist torque, but long before it was cinched down, the ball joint stud started to turn, making it impossible to tighten the castle nut. This has happened often to me when changing tie rod ends and ball joints. I assume that the ball joint is broken and needs replaced. I purchased a replacement ball joint, and rented the ball joint press C-clamp tool, too; however, there is insufficient clearance around the top of the ball joint to fit the cylindrical receiving cup in the press tool. Is there a special tool needed for this?

    Thanks for the help
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    hondacar1hondacar1 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1996 Honda Accord 4 dr 4cyl LX and the A/C is not working. I went to a mechanic and the system was charged and leak tested. No leaks were found. Even after the recharge the A/C did not work. After looking at a repair manual I checked the condenser fan and compressor relays. The relays checked out fine. As a check I jumped the compressor clutch wiring harness with the relay off. The compressor engaged and supplied cool air. What are some possible root causes of this problem?
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    tovawongtovawong Member Posts: 2
    What would be the best way to fix the heat shield noise problem? I have a 95' accord ex. appreciate any suggestion. tw
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    rey187rey187 Member Posts: 3
    Hello

    The balancer(crankshaft pulley)on my car is two pieces inner and outer pressed together with rubber. The first one seperated and i figured it was from age the car has 123k on it. So i replaced it then 100 miles later the brand new one seperated.

    Anyone have any ideas on why this would happen?
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    autoboy16autoboy16 Member Posts: 992
    Seems emission related... Did you try your honda dealer? Inquire about the 98-081 service bulletin. It applies to All honda models that are between 1996 and 1997. (except the Honda Rodeo... err passport :blush: ). It also applies to 1995 accords with a v6 engine. All you need is fewer than 150k miles or 13 or 14 years**. For me, its been 115k miles and 11 1/2years. The speedometer may jump crazily or a squealing sound coming from the engine bay around 3k rpms will be heard. A slight bucking is evident also. It includes a FREE* :sick: Oil Change. :)

    *If the procedure hasn't been done. The cost of labor and parts and whatever else emission related, $0

    ** To be sure, do a google on the 98-081 service bulletin :)

    -Cj :shades:
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    hondacar1hondacar1 Member Posts: 2
    I took a look and the service bullitin is for emisions control not the A/C.
    Thanks for the info :)
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    cookieladycookielady Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1997 Honda Accord EX and am looking for a cigarette lighter assembly replacement. Any ideas? It was originally a little loose when I bought the car a year ago, and has recently fallen out of the trim assembly. Thank you for any help!
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    dontknow1126dontknow1126 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 1994 Honda Accord LX 4DR Sedan.. bought my car and the automatic door locks didn't work. The remote it came with doesn't work. Using the key doesn't work and the manual button on the door doesn't work. All of a sudden they worked but then it stopped and hasn't worked since. Anyone have any ideas or should i just go out and buy a Keyless/Alarm set?
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    94accord_lover94accord_lover Member Posts: 42
    Sorry i haven't responded sooner. I did change the thermostat, an $8.50 part. It made all the difference in the world :shades: . Thank God it was not the transmission. It did the trick. I took it out for a drive to Chillicothe (about 12 miles from my house, 4 lane highway, 60 mph). My torque converter kicked in and the rpms dropped from 2700 to about 2350. It was a miracle! :) i was used to it running about 2800 rpm @ 60 mph that it was kind of relaxing to finally hear the engine calm down. Thank you so much for all of your guys help. ;) Without this site, i would have never known anything was wrong. Also another good highlight, my avg. fuel econ. has increased by about 10%! :shades:
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    94accord_lover94accord_lover Member Posts: 42
    Hey I have another problem for ya'll to figure out. I have been having problems with my fuel gauge being inaccurate. I can't tell for sure when this started, but it is obviously here to stay. My gauge is reading lower than what it should. I once ran it down to empty, and the low fuel light came on. I panicked, but i made it to a station. Figuring on a 17 gallon fillup, considering that's the size of my tank, i was rather surprised when the pump kicked at 11.2 gallons. I tried to make it go more, but it kept kicking, so i stopped, knowing that 11.2 gallons would last me a while anyways. Again i was surprised to find that the gauge was up to full. It has been doing this ever since then, and it may have been happening a while before that. I can typically run it about 280 miles before i "need" to fill up again (according to my gauge). I can get about 10 gallons in before the pump will kick and the gauge will read full. The gauge reads like the tank is 10 gallons, so i use it as more of an MPG meter and use my tripometer to tell when i need to fill up. Its not really a problem, more like an annoyance. If anybody has had this problem or knows how to fix it, please help me out here.
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    shadingdingshadingding Member Posts: 16
    Hi odysseyaccord, Mrbill and other Honda experts,

    I have 97 Honda Accord 4 cylinders 16 valves. I try to change timingbelt.

    The power steering pump, alternator, valve cover and upper timingbelt cover are off now. I am still having hard time correctly aligning all timing marks (TDC). Something is bothering me after looking up mechanical manual and talking to someone in the autoshop. The problem is that the 'UP' is upside down on camshaft pulley when the crankshaft pulley notch on the mark and the distributor rotor pointing #1 cylinder.

    Is this possible? And then I tried to make 'UP' stays up and the crankshaft notch on the mark, but the distributor rotor points #4 cylinder. So please tell me which of two can I count on?
    -- crankshaft pulley notch on the mark
    -- distributor pointing #1 cylinder
    -- 'UP' is up on camshaft pulley

    Did I miss something? Or anything else I can do to get this straight out?

    Thanks in advance.

    shadingding
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    lastwraithlastwraith Member Posts: 350
    Glad you got your T-stat problem sorted out. I guess my bet was a safe one last time.

    Here is some info on how the float, etc works for gas gauges: http://auto.howstuffworks.com/fuel-gauge1.htm

    I had one float that the gas had permeated and caused to sink lower in the tank giving false low readings, you may have a similar problem. Either way, the float is something to have looked at.

    good luck
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    dontknow1126dontknow1126 Member Posts: 3
    Hello.. since no one responded to my other one.. maybe you will have fun with this . might be more of challenge.. my brakes tend to not work sometimes.. it will go straight back.. oh.. 1994 Honda Accord 4D Sedan.. anyways.. this is becoming a very annoying thing cause i dont want to run into the person infront of me.. my brakes are fine and dont need a replacement so what can i do..
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    thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    COuld you explain in more detail? Does the pedal just go to the floor? Details will help determine the issue.
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    dontknow1126dontknow1126 Member Posts: 3
    well.. every once in a while the car doesn't want to break.. you are usually able to stop in seconds but my car doesn't. i would have to let go and retry to stop so it will stop. sometimes that doesn't even work. it breaks but very slowly.. if i were to have to do a sudden stop i would never make it ..... uhm.. what else? did that help?
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    lastwraithlastwraith Member Posts: 350
    I don't know how much of a response you are gonna get from the boards on this anyway. Usually with a problem as serious as that the first/best advice is to take your car to a trusted mechanic's shop immediately. There may be a leak in the line, problem with the booster, MC, etc.

    This is a diagnosis that should be made immediately, driving with a problem like that is foolhardy.
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    thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Get to a shop, and quickly...but it sounds like you have a serious leak in the brake line/master cylinder...I wouldn't drive the car anywhere BUT to the mechanic.
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    scottsbluffscottsbluff Member Posts: 7
    I recently bought a 1997 Accord. Love it, but when driving it the other day we heard a noise and when we got out to look the driver side headlight casing and the bumper seem to have broke. Looks like somesort of clip has broken off. Is this something that has happened to anyone else? Thanks. :confuse:
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    mrgold35mrgold35 Member Posts: 73
    Does it feel like your stopping the car on ice? Every once in a while my 97 Accord with +155K on same rotor/drums would feel like that but only on 10% of emergency stops. I could not duplicate the same results in non emergency stops on a side road. Everything felt normal for regular stops. I have not had this problem reoccur after getting my brake pads replaced at the Honda dealership 6 months ago. I had Brake Master Pads on the car previously.
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    naseem641naseem641 Member Posts: 6
    Hi i just purchased a 97 honda accord ex (v6) and as i started driving it i realized something was wrong with the brakes. As i was breakin and id be almost at a stop the break peddle would kick back up and the brakes would make a noise. Now i check the drums, rotors, pads, all are in great condition and recently changed.... can anyone help me with this problem?
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    naseem641naseem641 Member Posts: 6
    Hi, i have a 97 accrd ex v6 and i realized when i would accelerate the switching of gears was rough. The car would jerk for a second then it would kick into the next gear.. what would cause this problem..? (my car is an automatic)

    Another problem i am encountering is that my car is running in higher rpms then it should, it shoots all the way past 4000 STILL BEING IN FIRST GEAR! Then sometimes the rpm meter would just stop working. Is this the meter or is something wrong with my trans?
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    thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Well, can you audibly hear that the car is revving to such high (4,000+) RPMs when the tachometer (the "RPM meter" is a tachometer) says it is revving high, or is it reading falsely? With the "jerking" you talk about it sound more like a transmission issue. Have you paid attention to the "D4" indicator light? Does it ever blink? If it does, you have a problem with your transmission.
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