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ladybug34
He said I should dump it now before it breaks because it can fly through the engine, out the side of the fender and into a car beside me and is horrble blah blah etc.
I was just wondering if this is remotely plausible.
What does a rod knocking sound like and if it does break whats the WORST case scenario?
Yes, a rod bearing can fail and cause the rod to drive through the block, definitely....but it's not going to go through the fender, etc...this is hyperbole.
In a sense the warning is irrelevent---if the rod is knocking, you have to rebuild the engine anyway.
Best thing to do is get a second opinion to see if it's really a rod or not. There are other similar noises, such as a loose crankshaft pulley or severely worn camshaft.
The flashing of D4 is totally random after that. Sometimes it flashes and sometimes not. However, it becomes more difficult to start the engine even w/o D4 flashing. Today, I sent the car to have it repaired. They told me it was the ignition switch and charged me $218 for the part plus another $140 for labor (am I overcharged or OK?). It was ridiculous since I can not start up when I picked the car even though D4 is not flashing.
Please help me, if this is a electrical issue or transmission issue? What should I do? I really do not want to spend too much money on this car.
Thanks a lot!
--Don't remember. Check the manual, if you got one, or ask your trust-worthy mechanic. 10W30 seems like a default to me.
I decided to go with Yokohama Avids since many people on USENET and
Tire Rack had great things to say about them on 94-97 accord.
After getting them on, I noticed a pull to the left and squirrely
handling. Kind of like the car was tracking every bit of road texture
on the freeway and skidding side to side as if there was constant
crosswind. Definitely not what you would expect on a Honda Accord.
I had a friend drive the car just to verify my hunch and indeed he said
this is an unstable ride.
I wonder if it has anything to do with the fact that these are
directional tires (which by the way look correctly installed by the
arrows on the tires).
To try to correct this, I got a 4-wheel alignment (which it needed) yet
my mechanic still found a pull to the left, that would oddly go away if
the tires were rotated front to rear. But I still had squirrely
handling regardless how the tires were rotated. One rotation
configuration gave me a pull to the left, the other configuration gave
me a wallowy ride on many bumps and dips in the road.
Rotating just the left side caused the pull to appear is one
configuration and dissapear in another. The tire place replaced the
front left tire (with the rotation configuration causing the pull).
Then when that didn't work they took the old tire from the front left
that they replaced and put it on the rear left, and that still didn't
correct the pull.
As you can see this is turning into a complicated and frustrating
story.
The tire place is now saying that they will replace all 4 tires with
another brand.
I am leaning towards Michelin Pilot exaltos.
So I am looking for recommendations and advice on how to avoid another
set that would cause such problems.
Some important info
* My trusted mechanic (repaired only Hondas for 20 years) said my
suspension is in fine shape. He doesnt see anything that could be
causing this
* I got my new Monroe Sensatrak struts in January. I had a set of them
before with no problems and I didn't notice anything odd when they
installed them, with my old tires on.
Ok, let me ask this. What year is the car (1994-1995 used a different taillight design than the 1996-1997)?
If it is a 1996-7, are you saying that the outer portion lights up brighter like it should, but the inner part near the tag gets dimmer? The inner part should not change regardless of brakelight being on or off. It sounds like you have a problem in your electrical system or taillamps if this is the case.
Hi everybody,
I know many people have already responded with answers to speedometer problems, but I have a few more. My 95 Accord LX (manual) has recently decided that it's speedometer should stay right around 20mph. what has me confused is that it stays at or around 20 as soon as I turn the key on without even starting the motor. I disconnected the VSS to test it and figured I'd try the key while it was disconnected. The speedo went straight up to 20 again, without the VSS connected. Of course I figure this means the VSS is not to blame, so I am wondering if anyone here has had the same problem or any ideas for me. I appreciate any help or suggestions you can give. Thanks in advance.
Thegrad
-1996 LX I-4 Auto Sedan, 163,000 miles; only two major repairs ever needed (Brake Master Cylinder and Cooling fan motor = $600 total).
:surprise: I kow the answer!! my bro had this problem in his 91. Ok. You have a spoiler. Check those lights. If 3 or more are out, this light comes on/ Sorry but no tips on replacing them. Tell me if i'm right! :shades:
ps That can be a sign if the battery is going low also.
-Cj
1995 Accord Ex v6: 115,600 miles. Only work done was the service Bulletin #98-081 and timing belt change. This is no :lemon:(-the power windows, ac on hot days, and stuck antenna)
- Cj
I am planning to buy a used 97 honda accord ex. The exhaust is rusty and needs replacing. How much would that cost me. How much can I offer the seller?
Any help will be appreciated.
Phase.
....Just a thought...
Thanks for the help
The balancer(crankshaft pulley)on my car is two pieces inner and outer pressed together with rubber. The first one seperated and i figured it was from age the car has 123k on it. So i replaced it then 100 miles later the brand new one seperated.
Anyone have any ideas on why this would happen?
*If the procedure hasn't been done. The cost of labor and parts and whatever else emission related, $0
** To be sure, do a google on the 98-081 service bulletin
-Cj :shades:
Thanks for the info
I have 97 Honda Accord 4 cylinders 16 valves. I try to change timingbelt.
The power steering pump, alternator, valve cover and upper timingbelt cover are off now. I am still having hard time correctly aligning all timing marks (TDC). Something is bothering me after looking up mechanical manual and talking to someone in the autoshop. The problem is that the 'UP' is upside down on camshaft pulley when the crankshaft pulley notch on the mark and the distributor rotor pointing #1 cylinder.
Is this possible? And then I tried to make 'UP' stays up and the crankshaft notch on the mark, but the distributor rotor points #4 cylinder. So please tell me which of two can I count on?
-- crankshaft pulley notch on the mark
-- distributor pointing #1 cylinder
-- 'UP' is up on camshaft pulley
Did I miss something? Or anything else I can do to get this straight out?
Thanks in advance.
shadingding
Here is some info on how the float, etc works for gas gauges: http://auto.howstuffworks.com/fuel-gauge1.htm
I had one float that the gas had permeated and caused to sink lower in the tank giving false low readings, you may have a similar problem. Either way, the float is something to have looked at.
good luck
This is a diagnosis that should be made immediately, driving with a problem like that is foolhardy.
Another problem i am encountering is that my car is running in higher rpms then it should, it shoots all the way past 4000 STILL BEING IN FIRST GEAR! Then sometimes the rpm meter would just stop working. Is this the meter or is something wrong with my trans?