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I wish you better luck than I had. The mechanic cracked the timing belt cover and knocked over the oil dipstick tube, which is right next to it. Oil all over the engine compartment. He repaired it and cleaned the engine compartment, but what a mess.
However i feel it is better to replace the water pump as you are there at it when the timing belts are replaced.
Check your owners manual and you may save some costly maintenance and money.i am looking at my manual as i am telling you this.This manual is for both 6 and 4 cylinders.
Besides the problems I mentioned, I told him to use Honda antifreeze, and even offered to get it for him. He admitted later that he used a regular aftermarket. I then gave him a gallon of Honda antifreeze and insisted he redo it.
I think I paid about $450, but that included changing some hoses and the thermostat. He only changed the upper and lower radiator hoses, even though I asked him to change them all, heater and bypass. The car has 80k miles, and I thought that while changing the water pump, this would be a good time to overhaul the entire cooling system.
the light on the dashboard lights up and the light in the display lights up but the cruise control does not engage.
I got the code for the front sensor, the same as I got a year ago. I reset the code then and it didn't come back for a year. I reset it again now, and it hasn't come back yet, but I think it's time to change the sensors. The gas mileage is dropping, probably due to the sensors being out of range.
Is it hard to break them free, after six years? What do you use, WD-40 or is there something better?
Thanks.
what a coincident. i was looking for instructions myself. took me a few hours to find it. but, here it is
http://cgenterprises.com/cabinairfilters/cabin%20air%208603.htm
i went into so many sites listing and selling the filters. but, this is the only site that actually has the instructions. i can't wait to try it out myself.
good luck!!
I have a similar issue with my 98 Accord LX. Can you please elaborate on what the issue was and how you resolved it. Thanks.
As far as the drum brakes, although they can last for a long time, I would inspect them since you have 120k on the car.
If you are going to do it yourself, it's usually easy to do.
Remove the tire. If the drums have never been removed since new, there is probably 1 or 2 metal clips on the studs, remove them and discard, they are only there to hold the drums on at the factory. At this point, the drum should just pull off, if not, you may need to help it along with a hammer by tapping on the back edge and on the side of the drum, alternating back-side back. What happens over time is the center area of the drum rusts up where it fits over the hub.
Once off, inspect both shoes, top to bottom. I would replace them if they have less then 1/8" of material left.
Mrbill
I've had the same issue with a '98 accord with (new to my daughter) 106,000 mile car. Have you been able to determine if it was the switch, the main relay or maybe the key being too old and therefore too worn? :confuse:
TIA
DZ
Any ideas....
Thanks in adavance.
Have you tried using the "Shiftlock" release?
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.autos.makers.honda/browse_thread/thread/7422f- a8b4c956654/ad47d87ea0ea3943?lnk=st&q=power+locks+dont+work+on+98+accord&rnum=1#- ad47d87ea0ea3943">link title
Jake :confuse: :mad:
You car may truly need all this stuff, but I would be very suspious of this when all that was initially seen was a leaky hydralic line or cylinder.
I time it would be time for a second opinion.
Do you think it is time to replace the spark plug wires? How will I know when it is time to replace them? Thanks!
transmission service,
radiator service,
new air filter,
an engine flush.
I've followed the car's maintenance schedule but don't recall any of these having been done before. The car runs fine, so I'm wondering if these are good maintenance suggestions (I'm not always convinced suggestions from quick lube places are legit).
Any advice on how freq. to have these done and how to tell if you need them would be great! Thanks.
I would be very of having transmission service done at a quick lube location. Honda recommends only Honda AT fluid. We are talking an automatic right?
Personally, I had my '02 AT 4speed transmission flushed at a dealer at 30K and noticed appreciable shift improvement. Some say this is early. How many miles on your car?
At somepoint, it is advisable to get the brake fluid changed, and also the engine coolant changed.
If you can use a screwdriver, you can replace your engine air filter quite easily and cheaply.
If your car is running well, you can wait until the 105k recommended time to change the spark plugs.
At that time, I would change the plugs, wires, cap and rotor.
BTW, I did all this at 60k on the same car, 2000 SE. It is really easy on this engine.
But does this car actually have a 'cap and rotor'?
I figgered it would have totally electronic ignition with individual coils on each plug fired by a black box, or at least a coil pack, still controlled electronically. No cap and rotor.
Take a spray bottle filled with water and mist the wires and cap. If they are cracked, you usually will hear (and see of you wait till its dark) arcing.
This will not verify if the resistance of the wires is OK, but it's something you can easily check.
Mrbill
Some comments on my 8 year old Accord: Great power and handling, brakes, roomy, junk trannmission and [non-permissible content removed] paint (black).
Does the timing belt need to be replaced at that point? It is at 7 years but it has very low miles. I plan on getting rid of the car when it is a maximum of 7.5 years old. How big of risk am I taking driving that extra 6 months?
1. How long can you drive while having to use the shift lock release to get car out of park. I cannot get to the dealer until next week but I don't drive my car that much (use Pubic trans for work) only on weekends. I don't want to do further damage by having to use this all the time (just started last friday and hadn't driven it for a about 5 days but was fine). Once i get past that she drives fine no issues until I put her in park again.
2. If my solenoid has gone what is the av price for replacement? I am in Eastern PA
3.If your brake light is out will that affect shifting out of park as well?
Thanks much
I am NOT an aggressive driver, just want to get from work to home(sometimes in extreme nor-eastern winter conditions). Something safe, long lasting and not pricey - can you please advise? I got the spiel from townfair guy about buying toyo's and almost every review on tirerack says this is good that is bad...tough to make a decision.
Please help,
PS, my girlfriend's Corolla came with Goodyear Integrity tires.
I've seen a few comments about them, and all were positive.
Can't beat the price.
Mrbill
Now you have to do a long term test report LOL.
Mrbill