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Thanks for your reply. What iam talking about is the sensitivty of the contact mechanism. When someone bumps the car the horn alarm goes off and if it's adjusted improperly t he wind can even make the alarm active. What I need to know is how is this alarm adjusted for sensitivity so I can roll it back to where it used to be. It only started after my final vehicle check while under three year warranty which expired on December 1st 08.
GeorgeDen
Mrbill
Sorry other guy I haven't looked in a while and don't remember your name.
What model Accord is yours? LX, EX, EXL? I don't think the LX came with a factory alarm system. Did you take a look around under the hood? Anything along the firewall or inner fender liners that may have been added? Do you see any added switches that sence if the hood is opened?
Mrbill
Ahhhh...hindsight. Always 20-20, is it not?!
Happy Holidays!
-FS
Happy Holidays
For the spark plugs, you said you said $65 for them? Can you suggest which ones to get and where to get them from?
Also, anyone know what transmission fluid to get? Coolant? I think the air filters i need for the 120k service should be easy to figure out.
http://www.handa-accessories.com/accord.html
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/
because even paying shipping, it was cheaper than the dealership prices. Now, I will be printing out the on-line prices from these sites, and seeing if Barker Honda (the local dealership) will match the prices. That way, I get a great price, and don't pay for shipping. The best of both worlds.
As far as spark plugs, you can get them at any auto parts store. Most of them have NGK (IZFR6K-11) Iridium tipped.
1) the "air cleaner element":
( Air Filter / Genuine Factory Honda Accord engine air filter - $20.49) (crap, I should have apparently replaced this at 105,000 miles too - I don't think I've done this since 90k)
2) Replace automatic transmission fluid
( Automatic Transmission Fluid ATF-Z1 - $6.11)
3) Replace dust and pollen filter
(Micron Air brand Pollen Filter - Also called A/C or Cabin filters.
Fits Years 2003-2005, for other years - $15.95)
4) Replace engine coolant
(Genuine Factory Honda long life antifreeze/coolant type2 - 1 Gallon Container 50/50 prediluted. - $11.73)
The big question is how many to get of each. For the "air cleaner element - I assume air filter?)" filters maybe I'll do two of these since I have to do this every 15k miles. But for the antifreeze and transmission fluid, would one of each be sufficient.
I'll go check out my local autozone for the spark plugs
I've also been told a number of times now that I need to flush the power steering fluid. So maybe I should grab that from here as well:
Power Steering Fluid
Genuine Factory Honda Power Steering Fluid, 12 fl. oz container. $2.90
I should probably go ahead and grab an oil filter too - Honda Oil Filter
Note: part# 15400-PLM-A02 - $5.15. I always grab my own mobil 1 oil from somewhere, but never get the filter. I might as well grab it now, even though I'm not due for an oil change for a while.
With the spark plugs, I'll check out my local Autozone. I should make sure it is NGK (IZFR6K-11) Iridium tipped? Any brand/pricing suggestions? Seems $65 is a good price from the earlier post I replied to.
Thanks for any help you can provide.
Rubbing alcohol is usually 70% alcohol, 30% water, if I remember right, that's about all the water it can absorb. You need to find the 90% alcohol for it to do anything.
Mrbill
About the Michelins cracking on the side walls, I have had those on an 06, but they always looked new, but I always had tire shine on them from the car wash. They literally looked new at 34k. no cracking. I had them rotated all the time too.
At first I was convinced it was a problem with the brakes. It doesn't happen all of the time. When I press the brake lightly the rapping sound starts and it is always perfectly in tune with the rotation of the wheel (one rap per rotation). Sounds as if it is the front, left. Pressing the brake a little more, the sound gets louder, but always in tune with the rotation. Brake a little more and the sound stops (as if crossing a line of some kind). It is not the brake though, it is something else. Outside air temp. doesn't seem to be factor. However, I only hear this problem while driving before the engine fully 'warms up'.
The CV Joint? A wheel bearing? It is definitely not the ABS engaging.
Hello,
I have a 2006 Honda Accord EX V6 with the OEM Tires (Michelin Pilot MXM4 93V - 215/50/17). The owners manual recommends the following tire pressures:
Front: 32psi
Rear: 29psi
The problem is, when the front tires are inflated to 32psi, they still look flat. The tire is visibly bent quite a bit at the point of impact with the ground. I didn't think much of this, since they are inflated to the "proper" pressure.
However, I just had all 4 tires replaced due to sidewall cracking (only three had cracking - 2 front, 1 rear). I am wondering if this bend is causing excessive strain on the side wall of the front tires which may cause this cracking (or at least enhance this?). The tires had about 20k miles on them and were original to the car. As I live in CA and don't have really bad weather, this seemed strange to me to see cracking. I'm just wondering if others have had this problem and what they set their front/rear tire pressure to? Thanks!
Do other peoples front tires show similar bending? I'm not sure pumping up the psi to 35-37 would completely fix the problem, and I'm worried about putting the tire pressure up too close to max in the winter (@ 40 degrees here - not super cold).
Many of use go beyond the recommended tire pressures to increase fuel economy. My 06 EX-L I4 is supposed to be 32/30 but I usually run around 35/33 year round.
Hmm.. I wonder if I need a socket wrench for changing the air filter in my 2004 Accord? On my 2007 CRV, I don't think I needed any tools for changing either of its two filters.
I have the '07 Coupe EX-V6 and had to replace those crappy OEM Michelin tires after 13k miles. And it wasn't due to my driving like an a-hole.
Replaced them with Goodyear's Eagle RS-A (made in the USA or so they say). They seem to be a great match with the car. 19k miles and zero complaints.
And I'm also in California.
The timing belt's something I didn't know anything about - I don't think I saw anything about that mentioned in the manual - when does that have to be done on a 2004 Accord 4 cylinder EXL Sedan?
As far as the brake pads go, firestone had told me a litlle while ago that something needed to be done with the rear rotors, but when Honda did their visual inspection more recently (included in my $29 oil change w/ battery test and tire rotation), they didn't comment on the brakes.
I should really get more handy. Maybe my new car will inspire me to do it? (I bought a new 2008 Lexus IS 350 today - details over in the Lexus IS 250 / IS 350 Prices Paid and Buying Experiencethread in case anyone's interested. I'll still be here in these threads since my '04 Accord will be handed off to my family and my wife still will be driving her 2007 Accord.
2003 Accord LX - 152,000 otherwise trouble free miles!
Thanks!
I lease my cars, so putting different tires on a leased car wouldn't be very appealing to me and would not happen at my expense. If you could prove the Michelins to be malfunctioning way before their warranty, then I believe they would have to replace them right. I know I had some kind of replacement warranty on mine.
I am glad your tires are better. I did notice a bend in the V6 tires on the Accords, that would eventually break them down. not good. Mine did sorta did that, but not to where it caused excessive wear.
The new Accords now use the same tire and size on the EX model and up trims.
Looks to be a better fit. Looks like they hug the rim evenly.
My tires also exhibit the "low" looking bulge. I rotate my tires every oil change and I am at about 53K right now. I haven't measure the tread lately but visually they still look great all the way around. I think their are a lot of variable with tire pressure and it isn't as simple as just filling to a certain number in order to get the best life/performance out of the tire.
I just started getting my first brake squeal. It is the back right brake (drivers rear). I'll probably change them out soon. I know I should do both rear brakes at the same time. I haven't gotten down and measured the pads all the way around yet but I will.
I have heard the rear brakes need changing before the front. Is anyone aware of that trend? How long on average after the rear do the front ones go out? Should I just replace brakes all the way around while I am at it? I may try tackling my first brake job ever this time around. What are the common pitfalls to pay special attention to? Should I go ahead and swap out the Brake fluid while down there?
Also, some have told me that turning the rotors every time you swap pads lengthens future pad life and maintains best braking performance. I am told this is because it eliminates friction loss between rotor and pads by removing the grooving from the original brakes.
I am sure there are other questions I should be asking but I don;'t know to ask. Any input at all is appreciated.
Also, I will be ordering the Maintenance manual soon. Is it still only available through the website at the back of the Honda glove box Owners Manual?
If you are going to be tuning your car then you would be fine. However, if you are ready to tune things out you should already be familiar with this.
I would stick to OEM and save the money and potential damage by using a plug that was not engineered for your engine.
Also, if you are looking for 5hp gains you should be driving a different car. Accords are not meant for "performance" like that. You probably would never noticed 5hp, the only advantage would be engine life through ease of moving the vehicle. Once you start passing 25-30hp you should start to feel the difference because of the power to weight ratio. The Accord is not a drivers car. Buy something that is small and light. Then small HP gains would be noticeable.
Those are my two-cents. I am sure there are others who can correct anything I have said or provide a different perspective on plugs.
Good luck!
Mrbill
One thing you may want to check. Take the cover off the master cylinder, and check to see if the rubber boot is hanging down. If it is, push it back into the cover. This has been known to cause the Brake light to come on, on older Accords. It may still apply.
Yes, the rear brakes do wear faster than the front (on many 7th gen Accords). My rear brakes were changed at 47k miles, and the front were just changed at 60k miles. When you push the calliper piston back in (rear only) you have to turn it clockwise, while pushing. Then line up the groves in the piston with the tab on the inner pad backing plate (should be square with the calliper). There is a paste that comes with the oem pads, that is to be applied between the pad backing and the shims. This paste is supposed to keep the brakes from squealing. If the new pads don't come with shims, use the old ones. There are different opinions on wether or not you should have the rotors turned when replacing the pads. IMO if the brakes are working fine, and there are no deep grooves (1/8") in the rotor, I would not have them turned. It will only make the rotors thinner, and weaker. You just have to break the new pads in carefully. I have a link explaining this, if you want to read it.
I'm going to wait until 60k when I take it in for its check-up and have them check it along with my alignment and all that fun stuff. I'm not handy at all. I can change pads and filters that's about it.
All any plug can do, is burn the gas injected into the cylinder. If the plug is not burning all the fuel, you will smell fuel coming out of the exhaust. As long as the oem plugs are in good condition, I don't see any other type of plug adding HP. A lot of people like to buy higher resistance plug wires, and not matching up the rest of the ignition system. The way I hear it, if the spark plug wires are stronger, they will only put more pressure on the coil and other ignition parts. I say keep everything OEM.
Sorry, but I was talking about rear disk brakes only. Should have made that clear, I guess. My old truck had rear drums, and at 60k miles they still looked brand new.
Does that mean that while you were driving and then applied the brakes, that one or more of the wheels locked up and began to slide on the slippery surface, and if so, which wheel(s)?
Or, do you mean, that the brakes applied themselves and locked all four wheels, preventing you from driving the car?
Or, do you mean something totally different from those scenarios?