Honda Accord (2003-2007) Maintenance and Repair

chucko3 · January 2009

Happened a couple times with my 03EXV6 for a few seconds.
The car was stopped at a Stop sign. Applied the gas pedal gently, but no movement for a few seconds. I could feel the wheels spinning.
The V6 has the TCS, and the TCS light didn't come on during
that time.
I noticed when that happened, the front wheel wells were filled
with slushy snow on a slushy snow road.

If the wheels are spinning, the brakes are not locked up.

tallman1 · January 2009

I read several posts about how hard it was to change the air filter on the Gen 7 Accord so I was a bit leery about it. However, it didn't take that long nor was it that hard.

I read about removing intake hoses, etc., but all I did was loosen the four screws holding down the air cleaner housing cover. I did have to pull on it toward the engine to get it up and out from under the frame but it wasn't that tough.

This was on the I-4, the V6 might be harder.

I also changed the cabin filter... that puppy sure gets dirty.

accord6mt · January 2009

I didn't encounter any big problems changing the engine air filter on my V6. The only two things I'd recommend would be:

1) Use a wrench instead of a screwdriver. The screw is made for either tool. I found that the screws needed a decent amount of force when cracking them loose for the first filter change. I tried using a screwdriver the first time and ended up almost stripping the tops of the screwdriver indentation off. A socket wrench made the job a lot easier.

2) Use an extension from the wrench that will reach one or two screws that are deeper down in the bay. This is at least the case for V6 models... not sure about I4s.

f0rl0rn · January 2009

Glad to hear you didn't have any problems. I have gotten into the Air Filter 3 times and each it was a pain. Maybe your arms are a little bigger than mine. It seems to take a good amount of force to push it towards the engine to remove it. It seems easier for me to remove the intake hoses.

But next time I am in there I will try and see if there is an angle I am not seeing.

Not to plug a product but if anyone has not ever used K&N, (or similar cleanable filter), they are worth it. Well, they are worth it if you plan on keeping the car until it dies. Just a little food for thought.

tallman1 · January 2009

Use a wrench instead of a screwdriver.

I agree. I saw the potential for disaster so I used a socket right away. They are on very tight so it takes some muscle to loosen them. It is good that they don't come out of the housing though. I hate trying to retrieve dropped screws/bolts.

The I4 has screws that are deep as well so I agree that you need an extension.

And yes, it is a tight fit but if you really force it, you can get the housing out of the way.

elroy5 · January 2009

Be careful with the air flow tube, when checking the air filter. I've checked the filter enough times, that the tube split next to the clamp on the throttle body.

srizvi1 · January 2009

Thanks for starting this mini thread Tallman1. As I posted a few posts prior to your post, I'm planning on dealing with both the engine air filter and the cabin air filter myself. Did you grab your filters from handa-accessories.com by any chance? I had given a breakdown of what I was planning to order here:
http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.efdf924/4330

blufz1 · January 2009

I always have the new oem replacement AF at hand. I check about every 15k and,if needed,I just stick the new AF in. Minimizes the times I have to "open it up".

altair9 · January 2009

Just changed my air filter on my 05 I4 EXL Navi. It took a fair amount of muscle to move the filter box towards the engine to clear the frame. I was afraid to damage anything, but managed to put the filter in. The cabin filter is a breeze. Bought both filters from Handa. Just 2 less things to get ripped off from the dealer in NYC.

tankbeans · January 2009

Hi. I have a minor problem, more of an annoyance. I've been noticing that there is frost on the insides of my windows. Is there something that I can do about this or do I have to learn to start the car earlier? Does this mean that there is too much water, from ice on my shoes, in the car and it is re-freezing on the windows?

I'm sure it's nothing, but I'm curious.

mrbill1957 · January 2009

My bet would be the water from shoes. If your floor mats and/or carpeting is wet, the evaporating water has to go somewhere, and when the car isn't running, the first thing to get cold is the windows, so that's where the water is going to collect first.

I've already taken the mats inside and placed them by my heating vents for the night. That did a good job of getting rid of all or at least most of the water.

Mrbill

tankbeans · January 2009

Thanks for the tip. I will try that. It really annoying as you can guess.

mechainical · January 2009

Hey all,

This is my first post here, so please bare with me.

The ploblem is with my 2005 2.2 i-cdti accord. Every now and then, when I get to about 3,000rpm, the engine looses power. It does not stop the engine, but the glow plug light comes on and starts flashing. When this happens the engine is limited to about 2100rpm, in all gears, and does not want to go any higher.

The only way I can get it to run normally again, is to pull over, turn off the engine for a few minutes and restart. Once I do this, it runs ok, as long as I keep the RPM low.

The thing is, it does not happen every day, so I am stumped for a cause.

Has anyone had this problem, or related problem, and if so, what was the fix?

Thanks.

elroy5 · January 2009

Have you disconnected the battery recently?

mechainical · January 2009

Nope, never done that. It had been in my drive for about two weeks though without being started. But I really don't think that that would cause this. I work a month at a time out of the country, and have never had anything like this happen before, in almost two years!

mrbill1957 · January 2009

Gees, I don't remember any other posts for an Accord diesel. Maybe it deserves it's own thread based on Accord diesel issues?

Mrbill

mechainical · January 2009

Good point, and good idea.

tallman1 · January 2009

Did you grab your filters from handa-accessories.com by any chance?

I did this time. HandA is a great place. The last time, I had a 15% off parts coupon from a Honda dealer so I bought stuff there. That was the one and only time I've seen that sort of coupon.

calp · January 2009

Looking for someone who had a similar problem with change getting wedged in the back of the coin pocket at the top of the gear shift and wedging open the lid?

bugs22 · January 2009

I had a dime fall into a space at backside of the pocket in my 2006 Accord and it prevented the cover arm from pivoting. I tried to remove the rubber liner first and that didn't give me access....don't try it because it doesn't fit correctly now. After a couple of months I pried the dime out with two pieces of wire. Lid shuts fine now. I remember working at it a long time but with patience it's possible.

vasiliosk · January 2009

Hello everyone. Well here is the story, I was on vacation for 3 weeks, and while I was on vacation I told my brother in law to turn my car every 2-3 days. I live in Canada and its very cold right now. When I came back I noticed that I had 3 lights on. ABS, Traction control, and the TCS light on.....well it ended up being my ABS control unit. The dealership wanted $1700 for the assemly kit but luckily I found a used one for $250. Has anyone else had their ABS control unit screw up?

Second question is, today I noticed that my heated seats are not working and my power seat is not working.....is it just a coincidence that everything is screwing up all at once? What could cause this to happen? I installed HID lights, and some people told me that it could be that, but most tell me it has nothing to do with it. I remember I replaced my battery right after I installed the lights, and my mechanic told me that if I wasnt boosting the car properly it could of screwed the electrical wiring....someone hellllllpp

accord6mt · January 2009

I have no clue but have you checked the fuses? I'm not sure if the seats and seat heater are on the same fuse...

Good luck!

yazyazoo · January 2009

I just brought my car in for a 90k service to the dealer. My dealer says all is fine but he says my front brakes are down to a 0 and I need it replaced. This is my 3rd time to do the brakes. What is the normal longevity. My other cars have never had to have the brakes replaced this fast. I asked about going with a 3rd party brake and he advised me against it because of warping of the rotors. What do you guys suggest. I think 30k for brakes is just too fast.

tallman1 · January 2009

What is the normal longevity.

Don't know what year your Accord is but my 06 has over 60K and I'm still on the original brakes. Lots of freeway driving though. Others have posted here that they seem to wear out early.

skris · January 2009

Hi,
The front license plate bracket of my 2005 accord broke and I need to buy a new one. I called up a dealer in Houston and they quoted $58 + tax. Can't believe $60 for a piece of plastic :mad:

Any place I can get it cheaper. Can't seem to find it any where on the internet either!

Thanks
Kris

ezshift5 · January 2009

...Don't know what year your Accord is but my 06 has over 60K and I'm still on the original brakes. Lots of freeway driving though. Others have posted here that they seem to wear out early.

...+1 (I have an '05 6M with 62k)

best, ez....

nycnftm · January 2009

I have the 04 Accord LX Coupe and looking to buy a used EX radio on eBay that has the controls for xm radio. There is a kit I would have to buy to get XM into it but are the radios themselves interchangeable?

tallman1 · January 2009

Maybe all that engine braking with our manual transmissions helps the brakes to last longer.

corkscrew · January 2009

Try the parts bin: http://www.thepartsbin.com/, just under $20.

Regards,
Corkscrew

f0rl0rn · January 2009

Bump +1

I have 07 I4 Manual. Around 56K. My shims just started making warning squeal on the drivers rear. I looked at the pad depth and they seem fine still. My front have not yet made any noise.

I believe driving style and habit are the primary factor in brake wear differences.

"Recommendation" make sure whenever replacing pads that you have brand new shims put on. This way you know that you are not being taken advantage of at a brake place/dealership. Also, I don't remember if the owners manual lists the depth for change on brake pads but you should find that out for your car and measure yourself periodically. If you can't find it I am sure someone in hear may have access to that info.

But if you are not inclined to do any of your own mechanic work at the very least make sure new shims are put on so you can hear the warning sound. Especially if you were told "0" was left on the pad. That means pretty soon you would have started grinding the rotors which could triple the cost of your brake job since you would have to probably get new ones (depending on how long they were ground for of course).

Good Luck!

PS ~ Not sure if their is a "Brake" thread but you may want to find one to get more advice.

thegraduate · January 2009

PS ~ Not sure if their is a "Brake" thread but you may want to find one to get more advice.

Honda Accord Brake Questions

There ya go!

03lxv6 · January 2009

Hi,

My 2003 Accord LX V6 only has around 47K miles. Now when I press the brake pedal, only the left stop light comes up. But all bulbs appear OK, because if I use remote key to close or open the door, all lights flash correctly.

Anyone can give some advice? Thanks.

bioman · January 2009

Brake pad wear will vary with driving style, individual habits, and type of driving, local,highway, etc. When you replace your brake pads you will also be replacing the brake wear indicators which are part of one of the two pads that go on to each caliper. If you brakes have had no significant pulsating during normal braking you usually do not have to cut the rotors. If they are pulsating excessively what I do, since I perform my own maintenance, is purchase and install new rotors. If it costs me a little more, so what. Safety first. This is a personal preference of mine. In the end if I do have to replace the rotors I am still saving a lot on the labor charges. Hondas do very well on brake wear. Sometimes the rear pads have to be replaced before the fronts. Why, I don't really know. My 04, V6 Coupe replace the rear pads at 30K and the front are still the originals, with between 1/4" and 1/8 " of pads, at 61K. They will be replaced in the Spring.

f0rl0rn · January 2009

I'm guessing the "Remote" key sets off your running lights and not your Brake lights. Do your running lights work correctly? If they do and then when pressing the brake one of the "brake" lights is not functioning then that is probably where your issue is. I would double check the bulb. If you have time on your hands you could swap left and right brake light bulbs and then try. If it is the bulb then the right side will stop working and the left side will start.

I have always been advised to replace bulbs simultaneously, so if you do have to replace the bulb replace both of them. I would guess they are cheap at any auto parts store.

Good luck!

03lxv6 · January 2009

Hi, f0rl0rn,

Thanks for the advice.

What do you mean 'running lights'? When I checked the manual, it says we have the following lights on the back:

tail light/stop light
backup light
high-mount brake light
turn signal light

I probably will swap the bulbs during the weekend to see if it is the bulb or not.

elroy5 · January 2009

But if you are not inclined to do any of your own mechanic work at the very least make sure new shims are put on so you can hear the warning sound.

The wear indicators are attached to each inner pad, for each caliper. The shims are thin plates that go between the pad backing and the caliper. The wear indicators are part of the inner pad, and not a separate part. The shims, in most cases, do not come with the pads, when you purchase them. If the shims have rust on them, they should be replaced. When you buy brake pads, they should come with a packet of grey anti-squeal paste (looks like never-seize to me). This is to be applied between the pads and shims.

thegraduate · January 2009

By running lights I think they mean "tail-lamps".

Honda30 · January 2009

I replaced the power steering pump on my 04 Accord LX V6 at 78,000 miles because of noise. My daughter had her pump replaced on her 03 Accord V6 at 54,000 miles because of noise.

Further research on my part indicates that the Honda pumps are failing at an unusually high rate. This item costs around $500.00 to replace.

Please post up if you have had this issue with your 03 and newer Honda, and the amount you paid to have it corrected.

Thanks

elroy5 · January 2009

There is a TSB on the power steering moan/whine. It may be the problem.
http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=10581&d=1200936994-

tully22 · January 2009

I recently replaced the underhood fuse/relay panel in my 2003 Accord EX to correct the light dimming problem created by a failing ELD, but now my blower for heat and a/c stays on after ignition is off. It seems like a relay issue, but I can't find the location of that relay. Any help?

srizvi1 · January 2009

thanks for the info on the TSB. I've noticed something here and there with the steering wheel being hard to turn at first w/ my 2004 Accord 4 cyclinder (well.. was "mine".. I've moved onto my new car, an '08 IS 350). I thought it may have something to do with a power steering fluid because a flush has been recommended to me by the Honda Dealer on a few recent occasions (but not by Firestone yet, so I was ignoring it).

I will be taking in the Accord for certain 120k and below services (it's now at 126k+ miles - I've discussed these services recently on this thread and will give an update on where I am with everything soon to help others who are in the same boat as me). I'll show them this and see what they say, but I guess it's exclusive to the 6 cylinder? maybe there's something for the 4 cylinder too?

elroy5 · January 2009

The V6 TSB is the only one I know of. I've heard of bad pumps too. They may use the same type of connection and 0-rings on the 4 cylinder, don't know. I do know an 0-ring cost less than a pump.

Honda30 · January 2009

elroy5 Thanks for the TSB. My symptons were the same as described in the TSB. You would think there would be oil leakage if the return line o-ring was the cause. I had no oil leakage at all.

Are these TSB's available online to the public?

rascal7298 · January 2009

I just bought a 2006 Honda Accord EX with 16000 miles. The dealer gave me quote for an extended warranty of $1300 for 6 years and 84K miles. Personally I think the quote was a bit high, but I also thinking I wasn't sure if I wanted an extended warranty anyway. Should I spend $1000 for an extended warranty with a vehicle such as this? Thanks in advance.

elroy5 · January 2009

I don't know of any sites that have all of the TSBs, and the details. When one is posted, it's usually by a Honda technician.

accord6mt · January 2009

When I purchased my Accord in 2005, I bought the 7year/70K Honda extended warranty for $800. $1,300 seems high... and really $1,000 seems high, especially if the warranty you're buying isn't a Honda extended warranty.

My two cents! Good luck!

f0rl0rn · January 2009

I there still room left on the Factory 36/36 warranty? If so, you can wait until then to decide on an extension. Unless you will not have the cash to pay outright and you are wanting to finance the amount (which I personally do not recommend a person ever do).

You are basically going to be paying for a warranty that will last you until you hit 100K on the odemeter. Most people drive more miles before the yearly deadline.

Personally, I wouldn't pay for an extended warranty on a Honda or Toyota for that matter. If you can wait, you should wait until the end of the factory warranty to get an extension if that is what you desire.

I have just under 60K on my 07 EX I4 Sedan Manual. It still runs and operates like the day I got it with 7 miles on it. Maybe the carpets a little worn and have a few scratches around the ignition from my keys, but that's it.

Good luck on your decision. I also have confidence in the high level of maintenance I perform to keep my car operating smoothly. If you want the piece of mind up until 100K that you have to decide what that piece of mind is worth to you. Obviously, anything could happen, hence the ability for warranties.

I used to work for a luxury used cxar dealer. We had the abil;ity to sell warranties. If I remeber correctly Honda warranties only cost us around $500 dollars. So if I could sell one for $1,300 I would be making $800 pure profit on you. I would offer them $600. If they say they can't tell them you are not willing to pay that much for a warranty that will probably never get used, it is a Honda after all. ( I am sure one of their selling points to you on it was reliability anyway.)

Good luck whatever you. Just remember if you know you could pay cash for the warranty then you should use that to your advantage by not feeling pressured to buy it now. Then try and talk them down, and if they keep trying to get you to pay more tell them what I mentioned. If the sales person knows they can make an extra $100 they will at least do that. just don't let them bully you or try and hard close you. You can always buy the extension later.

rascal7298 · January 2009

The factory warranty expires in the middle. of February and I would be paying cash...just like the car itself.

I'll do some shoping around but unless a great deal presents itself I will probably not get it.

thegraduate · January 2009

Just don't lose sight of what buying an extended warranty is; betting against your car, with the odds in favor of the dealer. If your car had been problem prone early in life I'd say go for it, but if it hasn't had problems thus far, I'd skip it altogether.

jfdalton · January 2009

I need some help from you all with experience in care care. My daughter just gifted our old 1998 Accord V6 back to us. It has been well taken care of, mechanically, but I know for a fact that the last time it was washed was last summer when she dropped by for a visit and I just had to help out. The finish is in pretty good shape with a few door dings, a scrape, and some white paint from the door post of her garage. What should I do to clean it up, protect it, and hopefully get a few more years out of it. Don't be shy; name names of your favorite products. Thanks in advance.

Honda Accord (2003-2007) Maintenance and Repair

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