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You know after I saw the Azera changeout I almost went ahead and bought one. I then thought I should wait and see what the others find out. They talked about the backlight being orange....that doesn't sound right. I should ask the Azera guy what color his backlight is. I don't doubt the guys in the other forum but I would think it should work. I eagerly await your test. Are you going to splice wires? Don't forget to disconnect your battery and be safe.
I would like to find someone with an 07 with the control and ask to take a look. Any takers out there? :P We'll be gentle.
Yeah, I read that too about the "orange" lights and had me confused there. I'm not planning to splice anything unless I'm certain it works. What I'm planning on doing is "JUMP" it out (running jumpers from the harness to the button terminals) and testing to see if it works or not. If it does, I'll take it from there how to proceed, if not, I'll put everything back together like nothing has happened and shelf the new updated remote. Therefore, No alterations, no warranty violations.
Have you been reading the other forum on the changeout? It sounds like the new control works with the 6 disc changer stereo not the single CD stereo. Unless you change out the cruise switch and the cables with the new stereo control. ??
I'm sure they will let you return it if you want to. Never hurts to ask. Thanks for stepping up and wanting to be the guinea pig.
Pete
Go check out the other forum. Seems someone had made it work.
The post where they talked about getting one to work was confusing. I'll be interested to hear what you find out. I may pull my airbag off and have a look around. Hmmmm I wonder if an Azera control would work. The flat plug seems to be the kicker. Do the Azera's come with a 6 disc changer as standard? That could be the difference.
FYI, it's #30 torx to remove the airbag/horn, and I think it was a #20 torx to remove the remote. I didn't disconnect the battery, hence I didn't want to lose all my memory on my radio and on the trip computer. There shouldn't be a problem as long as you don't start poking around with a sharp object or cutting wires 2 at a time. Word of advice, if you ever have to cut wires, ALWAYS cut them one at a time. Whether AC or DC!
PS, If & when u look under the airbag, take a look at the brass portion of it's left underside. I noticed KIA stamped on it!
TTYL,
Pete
It sounds like you might want to order the cruise switch also. I think ours does not match up with the new harness. I don't think I want to go thru all this hassle just to change stations and tracks. Now if I could turn the unit on/off, maybe a different story. :surprise: Thanks for the torx info, I'll probably have to buy one for this. I'll have to look in the tool bucket.
Craig
The switch itself is a perfect fit, not hard to change. The problem is the old plug does not fit into the new switch. :mad: Here's how to make it work:
For safety, remove the positive battery cable under hood. No way the airbag can go off with it unhooked. You will lose your clock setting, but the radio remembers it's stations. Must have a small battery or some sort of RAM chip.
Remove the airbag/horn cover. Use the Torx driver as described previously. I bought mine at Pep Boys for around $3.00.
Remove the old volume switch with a smaller Torx driver. Look at the old plug. It is square, and will not fit into the new switch assembly.
Cut the NEW plug that fits into the NEW switch off of the NEW wiring harness. This is all you need from the new wiring harness. Leave a couple inches of wire, strip the ends.
Cut the OLD plug that fits the OLD switch off, as close to the plug as possible. Strip the wire ends of the factory harness. There should be 2 blacks, a pink, a gray, and a light green.
Splice/twist/solder/heat shrink/electrical tape the NEW plug wires (blue, red, yellow, pink) to the OLD factory harness wires as follows:
OLD(factory) NEW(Korean Plug)
Black (both) splice to Blue
Pink splice to Red
Gray splice to Yellow
Light Green splice to Pink
Before you do your splicing, make sure you tuck your factory wires back under the metal framework of the wheel. (I pulled mine out for easier stripping of the ends).
After sealing all your wire connections so they can't touch each other, feel free to reconnect your battery cable and try out your radio. The buttons formerly known as volume up and down should now make your radio seek the next station up and down, or skip to the next CD track. The volume up and down are now found behind the switch, along with the mute. If all is well, disconnect your battery cable once again, re-install your airbag, reconnect your battery cable, and help me try to figure out WHY DIDN'T THEY BUILD THEM ALL LIKE THIS IN THE FIRST PLACE!
By the way, this upgrade takes a while on the FIRST Sonata you do, but is pretty quick on the second one LOL
http://www.hyundai-forums.com/t15923-06-to-07-sonata-radio-remote-success.htm
I want to add an amplifier and sub box to the trunk, does anyone know if the single factory sub is being driven from an amplifier or just the stock radio and is it only recieving an LF signal?
I would like to tap into the factory sub line signal to drive a new amp and sub (instead of replacing the deck and running rca cables back to the trunk)
Will this be a problem if I use a high input converter?
Thanks
R
Thanks
So far, I'm only able to receive 4 stations.
I have to go back tommorrow to pick up something, so I'll ask them how the 90 day preview is supposed to work , or if those 4 stations are the preview.
I have Sonata 07 GLS w/ XM Single CD but no steering wheel controls. I also ordered the switch and harness from dreamka4u. However, I'm not sure what splicing is needed because my old harness is different than what you guys have.
Old Harness(center plug):
_ _ Brown Yellow Green "Ground, Connects to airbag"
_ _ Black Pink _ _
New Harness(Center plug):
_ _ _ White Brown "Black, Connects to airbag"
_ _ Blue Red Yellow Pink
Old harness (Cruise control):
Yellow
Brown
Green
_
_
Black
Pink
New Harness (Cruise Control):
_
Brown
White
_
_
Blue
Red
Can anyone help me out here on what I can do get this working? Also, is there a way to order the harness that you guys have?
Thanks!!
p.s. If I use the harness from dream, audio control works fine but my cruise control doesn't work.
Thank you, Thea
Jason
Mike
Are you by any chance interested in selling your 6 cd radio? If so, how much are you wanting for it?
Tks.
-Jason
The signal booster may not help your case here since it will boost both the RF (Radio Frequency) signal that you want to receive and Noise (contributed by the rear defroster) the same amount.
Your problem is the vehicle Electrical Noise got coupled to the the Rear Defroster when it is turned on. So the fix for this problem is to reduce the Noise getting to the defroster wires. Sometimes, in some vehicles, the noise is generated locally at the defroster wires themselves: micro crack on these Defroster wires. As soon as the defroster is turned on, there are small sparks across the cracks. Sparks are very effective in jamming RF Signal (AM/FM/GPS...)
jt
I recently bought a 2006 sonata gls with a single cd radio. I have been reading the forum to see if any have swapped out a single cd for a OEM radio with 6-cd changer. I have not seen any yet. I am wondering what are your thoughts on such an operation? It seems possible. Any takers?
---I want to put in replacements but I was curious as to people that have replaced their factory speakers how much of an improvement it was and possibly the brand that you put in.Here is the million dollar question does the head unit have enough power and also clean sound to push the replacement speakers sounding very good.
I bought a pair of Infinity 6020cs 6 1/2" component speakers for the front doors.
These consist of a seperate woofer, tweeter, and crossover network. The speakers are made out of polypropolene rather than paper, the magnets are much bigger, and more powerful, and the tweeters are the sweetest sounding to me.
You can learn more about these and many other aftermarket speakers at Crutchfield.com. Their prices are not always the lowest, but their service is the best. They stand behind everything they sell, and they only sell quality.
You can buy speakers cheaper on E-Bay, but you won't get free wiring harnesses, and step by step install directions.
For the rear doors, I bought a pair of Infinity 2 ways, since I don't really need seperately mounted tweeters up high back there.
The install is not very difficult, but it does take time because you have to take the door panels off. I recommend a panel removal tool, which looks like a siamese twin version of a flat bladed screwdriver (V) at the tip. There are little round plastic trim caps covering the screws that hold the door panel on. These can be popped out with a penknife.
Once the screws are removed (all the way around the door, and the cup inside the door handle), you can pop off the door panel using the trim removal tool. There are white plastic clips attached to the panel that pop into mating holes in the steel part of the door. The trick is to get the V shaped tip of the tool around the white plastic clip, and pop it out of its metal hole in the door, without detaching it from the door panel. It holds in tight, like the ribbed plastic corks in some champagne bottles. Once you get the hang of it, it's not that hard.
After all your clips have been popped loose, the door panel should be hanging from the top of the door, where it touches the window, and loose everywhere else.
Now you can lift the panel up out of the window groove, and free of the door. You will have to disconnect the wire connections for window switches, and/or locks. The plastic connectors all have some sort of mechanism that locks them together, like a small tab you have to push in or pull out. Don't worry about reconnecting them wrong, the plugs are all different and won't let you.
Now, the fun part. Drill out the rivets that hold your factory speakers in. Pull hard, they are sealed in pretty tight. Marvel at the cheap paper cones, and tiny magnets. Toss them in the trash. Install new speakers in their place.
You may need to drill some holes in the door to attach the new speakers. You may need to use some trim rings that extend your speaker's diameter, so they can reach the door's sheet metal (I did). You also need to be sure that your car's window clears the back of the speaker magnet in it's down position. (you'll need to plug the window switch back in to run it up and down).
That's just the woofer. I haven't mentioned the crossover network, or tweeter changeout. This is why car stereo installers charge what they do. This is custom work. Depending on how handy you are, this may be a cute simple little job, or a nightmare of pain and suffering.
My first door took me a long time, but I had to learn how to take the door apart, and invent the process for mounting my woofer, tweeter, and crossover network.
The second door was much faster, because I knew how to take it apart. The back doors were easier still, because there were no seperate tweets or crossover.
What I haven't mentioned, is that I'm not exactly driving these speakers with just the factory radio. Although I've kept the factory radio, I have gotten behind it, and dropped the speaker level output to a line level output with a line level converter .
This is a small box which basically takes the high level speaker outputs, and converts them to a low level output (similar to a headphone out). I then sent this signal to the trunk, where I have an Infinity amplifier. It raises the clean low-level line input signal to a high-level suitable for speaker output (111 watts per channel x 4).
This signal is then sent back up front behind the radio, and back into the original factory speaker wires, where they were cut to install the line-level converter.
The result is a much cleaner, clearer sound than factory, without losing any of the factory radio perks ( big display, big buttons, integrated look, steering wheel controls).
Even without the power amp, better speakers will sound better. It's just that simple. However, the amp will change them from merely good, to awesome. As loud as you want to go, clean and clear all the way up and down, without distortion. Most distortion (and blown speakers) comes from underpowered amps, not cheap speakers. Having said this, speakers are still the most upgrade for the least money you can buy.
Again, this is not a quick and easy job, but you can do it yourself if you are calm, careful, and methodical. If not, you may want to pay an installer to do it for you. Circuit City is pretty reasonable, and they have the skills and tools to make quick work of an install like this. It takes time and money, but the sound may be worth it to you.
If you are still interested, ask me about my Infinity Bass Link