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Hyundai Sonata Audio Questions



  • I have found an antenna adaptor that has a plug for the Sirius raido "FM OUT" connection that cuts out your antenna feed so the Sirius FM feed is the only feed to the radio. The best part is its only $20
  • Can you give details on did you set this up, where do you buy the adaptor, is it a direct connection or FM modulator? Would it work for an iPod? Thanks in advance!
  • That is the link to the part. I have not bought it yet because I still have the free XM and I am trying to wait until XM & Sirius merge so I don't have to have 2 Antenna's on my car, but if its going to take much longer I will add my Sirius radio to my car.
  • I have not been very happy with the performance of the factory head unit in regards to the normal radio reception and I am thinking the antenna in the rear window is the biggest problem. I noticed this morning while I had a FM radio station tuned in, it was a very good signal btw, I turned on the rear window defroster and poof - it sounded like the station I was listening to was 100 miles away. Has anyone else noticed this? and would one of these signal "boosters" added inline to the antenna feed make any difference?
  • jntjnt Posts: 316
    have not been very happy with the performance of the factory head unit in regards to the normal radio reception and I am thinking the antenna in the rear window is the biggest problem. I noticed this morning while I had a FM radio station tuned in, it was a very good signal btw, I turned on the rear window defroster and poof - it sounded like the station I was listening to was 100 miles away. Has anyone else noticed this? and would one of these signal "boosters" added inline to the antenna feed make any difference?

    The signal booster may not help your case here since it will boost both the RF (Radio Frequency) signal that you want to receive and Noise (contributed by the rear defroster) the same amount.

    Your problem is the vehicle Electrical Noise got coupled to the the Rear Defroster when it is turned on. So the fix for this problem is to reduce the Noise getting to the defroster wires. Sometimes, in some vehicles, the noise is generated locally at the defroster wires themselves: micro crack on these Defroster wires. As soon as the defroster is turned on, there are small sparks across the cracks. Sparks are very effective in jamming RF Signal (AM/FM/GPS...)

  • All,
    I recently bought a 2006 sonata gls with a single cd radio. I have been reading the forum to see if any have swapped out a single cd for a OEM radio with 6-cd changer. I have not seen any yet. I am wondering what are your thoughts on such an operation? It seems possible. Any takers?
  • Hey guys I know the firat answer any of us will respond to is well it depends on what quality of replacement speakers you put in-I know that but here's the reason for the vague question.
    ---I want to put in replacements but I was curious as to people that have replaced their factory speakers how much of an improvement it was and possibly the brand that you put in.Here is the million dollar question does the head unit have enough power and also clean sound to push the replacement speakers sounding very good.
  • i got a soultion to connect your iphone/ipod to play songs in sonata speakers..Just go to any car audio store and buy this FM modulator-Performance Teknique-PLL Synthesizer FM Modulator.This is also made in Korea as Sonata,This modulator is coonected to antenna internally and plays clearly than any wireless FM Modulators.
  • I have added aftermarket speakers in my 06 Sonata LX. The difference is huge. The original speakers are paper, with a tiny, weak magnet. Almost any aftermarket speakers would be an improvement.
    I bought a pair of Infinity 6020cs 6 1/2" component speakers for the front doors.
    These consist of a seperate woofer, tweeter, and crossover network. The speakers are made out of polypropolene rather than paper, the magnets are much bigger, and more powerful, and the tweeters are the sweetest sounding to me.
    You can learn more about these and many other aftermarket speakers at Their prices are not always the lowest, but their service is the best. They stand behind everything they sell, and they only sell quality.
    You can buy speakers cheaper on E-Bay, but you won't get free wiring harnesses, and step by step install directions.
    For the rear doors, I bought a pair of Infinity 2 ways, since I don't really need seperately mounted tweeters up high back there.
    The install is not very difficult, but it does take time because you have to take the door panels off. I recommend a panel removal tool, which looks like a siamese twin version of a flat bladed screwdriver (V) at the tip. There are little round plastic trim caps covering the screws that hold the door panel on. These can be popped out with a penknife.
    Once the screws are removed (all the way around the door, and the cup inside the door handle), you can pop off the door panel using the trim removal tool. There are white plastic clips attached to the panel that pop into mating holes in the steel part of the door. The trick is to get the V shaped tip of the tool around the white plastic clip, and pop it out of its metal hole in the door, without detaching it from the door panel. It holds in tight, like the ribbed plastic corks in some champagne bottles. Once you get the hang of it, it's not that hard.
    After all your clips have been popped loose, the door panel should be hanging from the top of the door, where it touches the window, and loose everywhere else.
    Now you can lift the panel up out of the window groove, and free of the door. You will have to disconnect the wire connections for window switches, and/or locks. The plastic connectors all have some sort of mechanism that locks them together, like a small tab you have to push in or pull out. Don't worry about reconnecting them wrong, the plugs are all different and won't let you.
    Now, the fun part. Drill out the rivets that hold your factory speakers in. Pull hard, they are sealed in pretty tight. Marvel at the cheap paper cones, and tiny magnets. Toss them in the trash. Install new speakers in their place.
    You may need to drill some holes in the door to attach the new speakers. You may need to use some trim rings that extend your speaker's diameter, so they can reach the door's sheet metal (I did). You also need to be sure that your car's window clears the back of the speaker magnet in it's down position. (you'll need to plug the window switch back in to run it up and down).
    That's just the woofer. I haven't mentioned the crossover network, or tweeter changeout. This is why car stereo installers charge what they do. This is custom work. Depending on how handy you are, this may be a cute simple little job, or a nightmare of pain and suffering.
    My first door took me a long time, but I had to learn how to take the door apart, and invent the process for mounting my woofer, tweeter, and crossover network.
    The second door was much faster, because I knew how to take it apart. The back doors were easier still, because there were no seperate tweets or crossover.
    What I haven't mentioned, is that I'm not exactly driving these speakers with just the factory radio. Although I've kept the factory radio, I have gotten behind it, and dropped the speaker level output to a line level output with a line level converter .
    This is a small box which basically takes the high level speaker outputs, and converts them to a low level output (similar to a headphone out). I then sent this signal to the trunk, where I have an Infinity amplifier. It raises the clean low-level line input signal to a high-level suitable for speaker output (111 watts per channel x 4).
    This signal is then sent back up front behind the radio, and back into the original factory speaker wires, where they were cut to install the line-level converter.
    The result is a much cleaner, clearer sound than factory, without losing any of the factory radio perks ( big display, big buttons, integrated look, steering wheel controls).
    Even without the power amp, better speakers will sound better. It's just that simple. However, the amp will change them from merely good, to awesome. As loud as you want to go, clean and clear all the way up and down, without distortion. Most distortion (and blown speakers) comes from underpowered amps, not cheap speakers. Having said this, speakers are still the most upgrade for the least money you can buy.
    Again, this is not a quick and easy job, but you can do it yourself if you are calm, careful, and methodical. If not, you may want to pay an installer to do it for you. Circuit City is pretty reasonable, and they have the skills and tools to make quick work of an install like this. It takes time and money, but the sound may be worth it to you.
    If you are still interested, ask me about my Infinity Bass Link
  • Do you think if I put in Memphis or Boston Acoustic speakers(coaxial front and rear) with the factory deck it will put out clean enough and good power to these speakers.I'm not going to mess with an amp even though I've got 2 MTX 4 channel Amps collecting dust!
  • I would strongly recommend seperate woofers and tweeters. Your car already has the tweeters in place, you might as well upgrade what you already have. The difference between having the tweeters up high on the A-pillar vs. down low shooting at your ankle is like night and day.
    The woofers don't care so much, because bass is not directional. (That's why you can put a subwoofer almost anywhere). The tweeters, however, are very directional. You'll be cheating yourself pointing them at your ankle. It's really worth the extra effort. Hyundai did it, and they were using cheap speakers.
    If money is a problem, sell the 2 dust collector amps on E-bay, and use the money to buy seperates. You'll be glad you did!
    Co-axs should be fine for the rear. Spend the money up front. After all, that's where you usually drive from, isn't it?
  • I am having problems with the 1CD version of the 2007 Sonata radio.
    The instruction book states it plays AAC, MP3 and WMA formats, with no information about acceptable fixed or variable sample rates.

    My experience is that the radio will not play AAC encoded discs. It will recognize the disc, and cycle through the tracks, but will not play.

    Performance is poor with variable rate WMA, with several skips per disc, and erratic restart when switched to FM or switched off.

    Fixed rate WMA is somewhat better, with only a few skips, and no restart problems.

    MP3 seems to work well

    The radio was changed once, without any change in performance. The recorded bit rates were between 92 and 250 K, and the disc were closed on recording. The symptoms are consistent with several discs of the same type. . The WMA discs work fine on several other brands of players. I have had only one opportunity to check an AAC disc in another automotive aftermarket player, but it worked. All AAC disks play fine with Winamp and Nero decoders on a computer.

    Does anyone have a similar experience or have an idea of why it's happening?
    Hyundai customer service and the dealer have no information available.
  • Hello everyone, after unsuccessfully looking for this information on the web, I was unable to find data regarding the external amplifier on my Sonata 2006 LX.

    1) Where is the amplifier located?
    2) What are the specifications? Power output at least

    I am trying to upgrade the factory speakers and would like to know what kind of amplifier (if any) is there. According to the description of my car, I have the lx with 6 disc changer, sub woofer (both I can identify) and a mystery external amplifier.

    Thanks in advance for the help,

  • sonic3sonic3 Posts: 1
    Can someone tell me how to remove that radio?
    Thanks in advance!
  • I just replaced my front and rears with Boston Acoustics SX 65's, the fronts sound really good-BUT- the rears sound barely better than they did with the crappy OEM's. Kim(or anyone that has replaced their rears) how did your speakers sound when you replaced them? I feel like their is a crossover somewhere in the line that is blocking a lot of the range.The rears sound as if there's like a covering over them that is blocking the sound. If anybody has any ideas please respond soon I need to go back to the shop and have them fix this.
  • Are the new rears 5" or 6" speakers. The 6's give you more bass, typically.

    Are they wired in phase. This means that they both have the positive wire connected to the positive speaker terminal, and the negative to the negative. If one is out of phase, they could sound weak.

    The original plastic cone that the Hyundai speaker was attached to the door with may have made the factory speakers sound "bassier", and was probably removed by the installer.

    There may be a band-pass filter, somewhere in line between the radio and the back speakers. This is commonly a small piece of electronics, along the line of a resistor or capacitor, which is typically used to block low freqencies to tweeters, because too much low can fry a tweeter quickquick.

    Last but not least, check the rear fader adjustment on the radio, it may need adjusting.

    If you ask your install shop these questions, I'm sure they'll know what you're talking about, and be able to help you. My rears sound good, but don't forget, I am running an amp to them. However, to be honest, I am still not totally happy with the bass/treble/midrange adjustability of the Hyundai radio, and am planning to add an EQ into the circuit ahead of the amp.
    I have bought it already, it is a Pioneer DEQ-7600 15 band digital EQ, and I plan on installing it under the HVAC controls, where the little drop down door compartment is now. This is where the KDM (Korean Domestic Market) Sonatas have their radios, so I know a standard DIN chassis will fit there.
    What do they have where our radios are? Why, a 7" NAV screen, of course. They keep all the good stuff for themselves!
  • After reading the reviews on these speakers by other buyers on Crutchfield, it is possible that - that's just the way they sound - . It's tough to get really serious bass out of 6" speakers. Even with a good amp, and quality speakers (which these seem to be) most people end up adding a sub/amp combo of some sort. I did an all-in-one space saving solution, it's called an Infinity Bass Link, Crutchfield sells 'em, and Circuit city used to, don't know if they still do.
  • I'm replying to message #90 by Kash1441--do you have the actual part number and supplier? Best Buy is telling me there is no such animal but if I find it they will install it. I'm a little bummed to find out that the car doesn't have the jack. I was about to pull the trigger on an Elantra (nice car, bigger than I thought) but noted the pass-through into the trunk wasn't big enough so bought a Sonata on the spur of the moment after noting "mp3" in the brochure, foolishly assuming it also had the jack like the Elantra.

    So looking for the part and supplier, and if you know, how it plugs into the radio/what button do you push on the radio to make it work. Thanks!
  • I let my three month trial subscription run out a month ago. XM kept calling, asking me to renew. I finally called them back and said that I may be interested if a deal could be made. After refusing a few initial offers, I was offered a one year subscription for $77. I said that I still wasn't sure and asked if I could extend the trial period. They came back with an offer of three free months before the $77 a year kicks in. I though that was fair enough. I then said that I preferred to be billed rather than pay by CC. They offered another discount of $12.95 if I used plastic. I think the $12.95 is a one-time discount. So, long story short, I have renewed my subscription for 15 months for $64.05. Not a bad deal for me and XM has another customer.
  • jt_minnesota,

    The configuration on the 2006 LX, 2007 Limited and SE as well as the 2008 SE and Limited is the same: Infinity Head unit individually shells out 120 watts and connects to the Infinity Amplifier (Power is 240 Watts and is located beneath th right front psgr seat. This goes out to the 7 spkrs comprised of 2 front tweeters, 2 spkrs in the front doors, 2 rear door spkrs and finally to the subwoofer on the rear deck. Finally, the total power output: 360 watts!

    Enjoy it!
  • Man....I have a 2002 hyundai Sonata LX...and i had to do some work on put a new battery,replace altinater,and some other stuff...But after all the work was finished the radio comes on but no sound come out..?
    Can someone help me? :confuse:
  • I am in the process of replacing the stock radio with another. I purchased the correct harness, hooked up all the wires correctly but when I put it into my car, and everything works fine except the speakers did not work. I then reinstalled the stock which still works, and everything was fine. I still want my new radio in, but don't know what the problem is!
  • I was wondering where to look to hook my speakers.b/c the radio comes on find and everything but no sound is coming.
    Im really lost....n im gettin fustrated cus im riding in silence every where i am....
    can somebody help to plug up my speakers or even see whats the matter...
  • did you just replace the head unit? I figured out my problem courtesy of a friend's help. The blue and white wire on the wire harness needs to be connected because there is an internal amp. I connected it to the power antenna because it has the required volt power supply for the amp wire.
  • Everything is going smooth but I can't for the life of me seem to find a hole in the firewall to run the amp power wire. Is there any or do I have to drill my own through that accessory hole for a clutch if my car wasn't an auto?
  • you don't need to drill anything. If you have the power antenna wire hooked up, just connect it to that and it will work fine
  • I'm talking about a 8 gauge power wire that has to hook directly to the negative battery terminal.
  • Morosky6, you are on the right track. First of all, you shouldn't power your amp from the antenna wire, it needs more juice than that, hence the 8 gauge. The antenna wire is fine for turning the amp on, that's what it's for.
    I had an amp installed at circuit city after I couldn't find a hole in the firewall. I insisted they show me what they did, and basically, they found the spot where the clutch cable would go through (if you had one of the 2 or 3 manual cars they build).
    The hole is not open from the factory, so the CC installers just drill it out with a small bit. Make sure you put tape around the bit, real close to the tip, so it doesn't go any further into the engine compartment than you want it to.
    Last but not least, your amp's ground wire should be as thick as your power wire (8 gauge). Otherwise, your amp's not getting all the juice it needs, and won't really "bump" those speakers, or worse, feed them a distorted signal (best way to blow out speakers). Good luck, keep us posted!

    ps: The 8 gauge wire (red) goes to the Positive battery terminal (with it's own fuse, of course). The ground wire for the amp (negative, black) (you really shouldn't use that skinny wire here, I know you want to) can be screwed to any good metal ground you can reach. It doesn't have to go to the battery, as a matter of fact, noone does that.
  • Is there a audio in / jack for the 08 sonata? I listen to my mp3 player a ton when driving in the car, and since the sonata doesnt have a tape deck (i miss tape decks :( ) I can't just use the tape converter.

    I know the 06/07 have nothing.

    Furthermore, if the answer is no, how difficult is it to setup the 30 dollar FM adapter for MP3 players? I don't wnat to have to mess around with taking out the stereo or anything. is it as simple as plugging it in and selecting a frequency? As I recall, the iTrip was pretty bad, so Im a little skeptical of this option.

    Any help would be appreciated.
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