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Clean the MAF with spray cleaner (brake, MAF, electronic - but not carb). Test your fuel pressure - need a $35 tester that connects to the fuel rail and key on engine off should be 60psi min top start - that initial pressure up cycle runs for like 2 sec then pump shuts off so press drops 2-3 lbs nd should not drop rapidly after. Running press about 54psi but less than 50 is a problem. Next if this is mainly an idle problem I would look at the idle air control and the port in the throttle body - have to take throttle body off vehicle to replace and clean the port the IAC valve opens and closes for air to set the idle. Then if still a problem I would supect the crank sensor as intermittant.
97 only known for a defective ignition switch thats really the column wiring and connector.
Second is if only at idle there is an idle air control valve on the throttle body that can cause that - one of mine did that randomly every few weeks and that was it - so watch for an rpm swing or slight surge other times that should'nt be there and thats probably it. Have to pull off vehicle to get to and clean the air port in the throttle body at the same time that the IAC plunger seats in.
Thanks for your help!
Sue
You might consider writing up a Guide - see the link at the top of this page.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
THERE IS NO SPARK FROM THE COIL.
I HAVE CHECKED THE WIRES TO THE COIL, TO THE STARTING MODULE, AND TO THE CAM SENSOR THERE IS NO POWER TO ANY. I FOUND AT THE AUTOZONE SITE THAT IF THERE IS NO POWER ON THE CAM SENSOR TO CHANGE THE FUSE BUT I HAVE NO IDEA WHICH FUSE, OR WERE IT MIGHT BE. I HAVE CHECKED THE FUSES IN THE FUSE BOX INSIDE THE CAR. AND THEY ARE ALL FINE.
In past 18 months I have changes: starter, plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotors, fuel injectors (spider), fuel pump, exhaust system, battery terminals, and a faulty wire in the ignition system.
My Mustang GT had a simiiar problem starting and I replaced the EGR valve (???) or something like that! Could it be the same problem? Thanks!!
Original problems when purchased a few weeks ago:
Previous owner replaced fuel pump and filter because the truck would not start. (lack of maintenance)
Engine running very rich and dies.
I was getting an EGR code so I checked out. The EGR was showing as energized when the engine was cold. Replaced the EGR and now the EGR works ok until engine stalls then I get no EGR code.
I found that the fuel regulator and fuel return line were leaking inside the plenum so I opted to replace the line kit and the spider. While I was there, I gave the truck new plugs, cap, button, and wires. Can we say $$$$$$$$? Plugs fouled out on 1-3-5 bank. Wires old and hard. Cap and button had normal wear.
The trucks runs so much better, but it will stall or lose throttle response while driving or at a stop. I feel that the money that I have spent was not in vain, because everything replaced was bad or in need of replacement.
I am now at the end of my rope with fear of throwing money into a black hole.
I do hear the fuel pump whine vary while placing foot on the brakes (not sure if this relevant) another porblem of its own.
:lemon: :lemon: :lemon:
So in short, I would check things in this order.
1. relay
2. fuel pressure
3. replace filter if pressure is low but holding
(but you replaced it)
4. check for voltage drop at fuel pump (should be 12 volts)
5. replace pump if pressure is still low
However, it starts up like a new vehicle on my lunch break and after work. I'm puzzled. Please help. I've changed both the fuel filter and fuel pump last year and haven't had trouble since until now.
Any ideas???
Had similar problem. Found a breakdown on the coil to distributor high voltage wire inside the plastic protective cover. A pin hole area was covered with white high tension voltage arching. Replaced wire from a new set of spark plug wires, thread it into the protective covering and everything is fine.
Hope this helps.
I'll also check the high voltage wire from the coil to distributor..
Any other ideas before I start?