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Last Fall we had the EGR Cooler and Head Gaskets replaced and had studs installed instead of the bolts that caused the head gasket leak. Fortunately the repairs, except for the studs, were covered under the 5 yr 100k warranty. I don't think that repair has any bearing on the 'barking' noise we are hearing.
Does anyone have any idea what causes this? And is there any way to stop it?
I had replaced the EGR cooler and the Oil cooler when I did the heads on this thing. It runs like a Bear. but now I'm getting the tempeture to go up and down all the time. It runs about 194 degrees and then it will run up to 220 or sometimes even 230, but then it will cool right down to 180. Even if I'm climbing a hill it will go to 230 then cool right down to 180 while Im still going up the hill. I think it use to run about 188 to 190 before I put a bigger turbo on it a few months back.
I put a new Thermostat in, because it was cheap and easy, but no luck. I was going to try a water pump next then maybe a fan clutch. Or should I just take it to the Ford garage and let them tell me what it is?
Any Ideas? or suggestions?
Thanks in advance! :confuse:
Now when I first got the truck Ford did tell me because of the Oil Pan being pushed up an inch ( whoever had it before tried to run over something or wrecked it, bought it from auction so I don't know ) that the oil could not be picked up fast enough for the High Pressure Oil systems these 7.3's have to run the Injectors and that the Starter was a little weak. Well I have not changed out the Oil Pan only because you pretty much have to pull the motor as most of you know but I have put in 2 Starters in the last 4 years going for my 3rd soon, lol.
Now since I have changed the O-Rings I have very good news to report, the past few days it's been dropping below 40 at night and it starts right up without it being plugged in ( doing the happy dance, lol ), it doesn't smoke and idles smooth from the moment it starts, cruises down the road much better and up the same hills it purr's up them much much better. All that with the same Oil as I am going to wait until I get the full 2500 to 3000 miles on it, I am at about 1800 on it now. It still doesn't start as fast as my others seem to use to do but like I said I am needing another Starter as this one seems to be dragging just a little and I have still not changed the Oil Pan. As soon as I can find a garage to borrow the Oil Pan is getting changed out or pour me a Concrete pad for the Engine Hoist, lol.
If someone is needing to do this to their 7.3 let me know as there are a couple tricks I found while changing them to make it easier and the tools you will need and what will happen afterwards once you try to re start it, thats a lot of fun, lol.
The O-Rings on the Injectors, our Ford Diesel's use a High Pressure Oil System, if Oil gets by the O-Rings on the Injector what I had worte before those are some of the problems you may be having. If the O-Rings are bad enough it won't even start.
There are 4 - O-Rings per Injector.
I have a 1997 7.3 Diesel F-350 crew cab truck. I have a problem with it. At times it will die out while i am driving and won't start back up. The "wait to start" will flicker inconsistently and the second relay on the driverside under the hood clicks with the flickering of the light. In this relay area there are four relays that are all the same so i changed them around and the relay second to the way still clicks. Also, while this is happening there is a click in the engine on the passengar side top end which clicks but not as often and last there is a solenoid which when clicks, the engine wait to start engine light blicks twice and is ready to start.
I did have the camshaft sensor changed with Ford dealership so it's not that.
I have a 1997 7.3 Diesel F-350 crew cab truck. I have a problem with it. At times it will die out while i am driving and won't start back up. The "wait to start" will flicker inconsistently and the second relay on the driverside under the hood clicks with the flickering of the light. In this relay area there are four relays that are all the same so i changed them around and the relay second to the way still clicks. Also, while this is happening there is a click in the engine on the passengar side top end which clicks but not as often and last there is a solenoid which when clicks, the engine wait to start engine light blicks twice and is ready to start.
I did have the camshaft sensor changed with Ford dealership so it's not that.
I have a turbo boost gauge on my truck and it is not difficult to check the turbo boost and either it is boosting or not. Any mechanic should be able to easily check that out. Or so I would think. Kinda the reverse of a intake vacuum gauge on a gasoline engine. I also have an exhaust gas temperature gauge. 150,000 miles on truck. Amazing to me how many folks just pull off the highway and shut down their diesel engines--there goes the turbo. Takes mine about 2-4 minutes to cool down enough for me to shut down the engine after running on the highway.
Gerald
Because diesels by their nature burn so dirty and create so much carbon, pumping 1,200 degree exhaust into the engine would cause melt downs. The cooler is supposed to cool down this gas, but ends up doing nothing but getting plugged with carbon and if left unchecked will force carbon into the fuel injectors, and give you another $4,000 bill. This problem can be avoided by bypassing the cooler all together.
So by plugging the cooler, you can not only eliminate the cooler from being used, thereby eliminating and chance of it getting plugged, and create a much more efficient, cooler running, more powerful engine. Now your intake will be taking in clean, fresh, cool air free of any exhaust gases.
Unless you live in California, do it ASAP and save yourself a world of headaches down the road. Depending on where you live, I highly recommend taking your truck to Bill Hewitt down in Georgia. The cost of him going through your truck and bullet proofing your engine is a heck of a lot cheaper than pumping EGR coolers, turbos, and injectors into your truck. His website is www.powerstrokehelp.com
Hope that helps!
Does not show a code CONFUSED !!!!! HELP ????
I have a 96 F-250 Extend Cab. Recently it began to give me problems blowing the #31 Fuel Line heater fuse over and over. In the process of getting it back to the yard it also took out my head gaskets. After some length of time, It was in actuality the fuel heater coil inside the fuel filter that become desoldered enough to arc and short the area. I replaced the head gaskets and had to replace the main harness with one from a late year truck.
My truck was manufactured prior to Feb of 96. The truck I borrowed the parts from was manufactured after Feb of 96. According to ford the build date is very specific in terms of the fuel filter harness but not the master harness.
I borrowed the Fuel Filter housing from the newer 96 and bought a new harness from the master to the filter housing itself (My companies cost at ford $45.00) Upon completing that nightmare, I had to refill the oil reservior to get it to start. It has been a week since then. Currently my truck (350k miles on body and frame 140k on trany and new crate engine from FORD) will not start without a shot of starting Fluid. On cold mornings when the truck is plugged in it still requires cycling the glow plugs three or four times followed by a shot of fluid. This usually requires two or three repeats to get it started and running.
From everything I have read here I can check the Cam position sensor, When I had it diagnosed it threw a oil code and one about ehaust leak. The exhaust leak has been fixed(tightened the brackets surrounding the turbo and replaced the flat o-ring between the flanges.
Any ideas on what is making this truck such a pain in the [non-permissible content removed] to start? Thanks for your time.
When coming to a complete stop it feels like it doesn't want to stop - have to put into neutral then into drive when able to go (ie at stop lights, stop signs) More often than not the truck will stall and completly shut down. Have replaced upper fuel filter - but truck drives great - until I have to stop and depress brakes - when depressing brakes it's like it doesn't want to stop - any ideas what is going on?? Only happens in drive, not reverse - when taking off from a stop it acts like i'm taking off in 3rd gear, but it's an automatic. thanks.
The solution was taking it to our local transmission guy which right away after looking at it said the vavle body was leaking fluid to the torque converter lockup. So he seggested a rebuild. Which after he took it apart found that clutch packs for 3rd and 4th gear were burnt from driving the truck in that condition(which caused more money) and a gasket on the vavle body was leaking locking the torque converter up all the time. After changing these parts it shifted beautiful.
So I suggest to stop driving, only move it if nessecary, and to take it to a shop. Unless you have experiance with transmissions. They can tell you if the problem is in the trans. And if the problem is in the trans I would suggest letting the shop take it out and rebuild the entire thing, because it's only a few hundred more, and if anything happens they have to fix it before you take it back. That happen to my dad, we put the trany back in after getting it rebuit and i guess the reverse vavle he replaced failed and burnt the reverse clutches up, and this wkend we had to pull it back out and take it when the shop's open again to have that fix, but no charge. so that's a lesson we learned.
I hope this helps and let us know what you find. Zack